Aeirating before or after mixing

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Deghisagorah

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So im asking this question fully out of curiosity, what if your container is not enough and youre trying to aeirate it properly, can you simply aeirate the good old plain water before mixing all of the ingridients together?, Or do you have to specifically aeirate after youve mixed everything up and right before pitching ?
 
I assume you're talking about partial boil extract brewing where you might top up a fermenter with water. It should be possible to get some aeration by pouring the water in, or pouring between containers, whatever is convenient. Or do it once the wort and water are mixed in the fermenter. It really shouldn't matter. Definitely do it only once you're at the correct temp and ready to pitch yeast, though. Not before.
 
Definitely do it [aerate or oxygenate] only once you're at the correct temp and ready to pitch yeast, though. Not before.
Just to emphasize this, making it extra clear:
We aerate (or oxygenate) chilled wort, right before adding yeast, or right after.

We DON'T aerate before boiling or right after boiling when the wort is still hot. Aerating hot wort is bad, it gets oxidized.

Boiling drives off most or all dissolved oxygen, that's why we need to add it after it has chilled.
 
can you simply aeirate the good old plain water before mixing all of the ingridients together?, Or do you have to specifically aeirate after youve mixed everything up and right before pitching ?
If you're topping up the wort in your fermenter with water, sure you can aerate the top-up water first by shaking or splashing, or directly from the faucet's screwed in aerator. But (using air) there are limits to how much oxygen you can dissolve in water (at a given temperature and pressure), while it takes effort to bring it to that maximum (around 8 ppm).

So if it's easier to aerate them separately due to the maximum size/volume of your fermenter you should aerate the wort too, as much as you can.

What kind of fermenter are you using? Plastic bucket, plastic or glass carboy, or other?
 
Just a note: If you're pouring the top-off water from a bucket, be sure to sanitize the bucket before filling it. And if it's chlorinated water, treat both the boil water and the top-off water with campden (or other method of dealing with the chlorine/chloramine).
 
Just a note: If you're pouring the top-off water from a bucket, be sure to sanitize the bucket before filling it. And if it's chlorinated water, treat both the boil water and the top-off water with campden (or other method of dealing with the chlorine/chloramine).
Glad you added that!
 
Oh I'm using a plastic carboy and well I never actually knew that you have to boil the wort first but the temperature here is quite warm since I live in the tropical regions of Indonesia and the temperature usually doesn't drop below 25C (77F) do i still need to boil the wort? if im guessing boiling the wort kills the bacteria thats inside of it.
 
Oh I'm using a plastic carboy and well I never actually knew that you have to boil the wort first but the temperature here is quite warm since I live in the tropical regions of Indonesia and the temperature usually doesn't drop below 25C (77F) do i still need to boil the wort? if im guessing boiling the wort kills the bacteria thats inside of it.
If you're using canned, pre-hopped malt extract to make beer, then no, you don't have to boil that. Actually, pre-hopped extracts should not be boiled. Use the instructions that came with the kit. Just dissolve the extract and other ingredients in clean, warmish, potable (drinkable) water.

If the extract is not pre-hopped then yes, for best results you need to boil the wort with some of the hops, or at least heat to around 80-90°C to steep the hops, which creates bitterness (IBUs).

If your water is clean and drinkable without pre-boiling, you can use it as is. Still, you need to use first a cleaner then a sanitizer to respectively clean (remove dirt microbes and whatnot) then sanitize all the equipment, which kills any microbes that are left on the surfaces that touches your wort and beer.*

* Wort becomes beer as soon as you pitch yeast.

If your (tap) water is chlorinated (contains chlorine or chloramines) as is often done to keep it sanitary so you can safely drink it without boiling first, the chlorination needs to be removed before using it to make beer. Stirring 1/4 crushed Campden tablet in 20 liters of water will do that in 30-60 seconds.

Since you live in a hot climate, your fermentations will be hot too. Hot fermentations don't make the best beer, restraining it by keeping the temps lower during active fermentation will help create better beer. You try to stay within the temp range for the yeast you use. For most ale yeasts that optimal range lies between 17-22°C. There are exceptions. Kveik is a yeast type that performs optimally at much higher temps, 25-35°C, which may fit your case better. There are many strains of Kveik, each with its own character.
 
Just think it might worth commenting. I've been full mash brewing since the 1980s and never aerated wort before fermentation and have always had a vigorous fermentation with a lid and airlock fitted over the fermentation bin. The gap above the fermenting beer and any dissolved oxygen must be enough for my purposes.
 
I think you would benefit from reading the on-line howtobrew.com by Palmer. It's a little outdated but still worth a read. Hard copy books thru version 4 are also available, along with many other good books.
 
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