Hopefully there will be some openings in El Catador, I would definitely like to sign up. Even with the change to 22oz bottles, it will be pretty hard to grab a bottle next year.
A Tribute to Hunahpu
- Thread starter WhizardHat
- Start date
Help Support Homebrew Talk:
Hopefully there will be some openings in El Catador, I would definitely like to sign up. Even with the change to 22oz bottles, it will be pretty hard to grab a bottle next year.
Yeah same here. I regret not signing up last year. And I have to say, I really hope they lower the cost of the beers with the change to the 22oz cause 3 ounces less beer and a much less appealing appearance. Not to mention bottles not worth saving for homebrew 
Yeah same here. I regret not signing up last year. And I have to say, I really hope they lower the cost of the beers with the change to the 22oz cause 3 ounces less beer and a much less appealing appearance. Not to mention bottles not worth saving for homebrew
Yeah, I'm with you on the appearance. I felt the 750's added to the experience. But, I do see where they are coming from, 2900 extra bottles per 120bbl batch + cheaper bottles. They can leave the price the same, if that means I can get a bottle or two. MZ was damn near impossible to get here last year, I can't imagine what Huna would be like.
Back to the thread
First one I've tried in about 2 1/2 months (bottled 12/1). CDC-1 did an awesome job carbing this up in short notice, the first one I had was carbed pretty well for only being a month in bottles. I'm still picking up quite a bit of Irish whiskey, I'm not even sure how much I used (enough to float 4oz of chips). Still super chocolatey, overall, its awesome. next bottle will be opened at the 1 year mark.
First one I've tried in about 2 1/2 months (bottled 12/1). CDC-1 did an awesome job carbing this up in short notice, the first one I had was carbed pretty well for only being a month in bottles. I'm still picking up quite a bit of Irish whiskey, I'm not even sure how much I used (enough to float 4oz of chips). Still super chocolatey, overall, its awesome. next bottle will be opened at the 1 year mark.
wobrien
Well-Known Member
This is the next brew I want to do. I'd love to try yours if you want to drop one in our next trade box
This is the next brew I want to do. I'd love to try yours if you want to drop one in our next trade box
I'm sure that can be arranged
![Craft A Brew - Safale S-04 Dry Yeast - Fermentis - English Ale Dry Yeast - For English and American Ales and Hard Apple Ciders - Ingredients for Home Brewing - Beer Making Supplies - [1 Pack]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41fVGNh6JfL._SL500_.jpg)
So how old is yours now? How did you carb them? (How much sugar per gallon?) I'm still trying to get better consistency with full head in my higher ABV beers.
It was brewed 7/13, bottled 12/13. I will have to check my notes on the exact amount of priming sugar, but I aimed right in the middle for the style (1.8vols). I am pretty impressed with CDC-1, I added a full pack at bottling and had good carb at 4 weeks.
I may be a bit off here, but it seems that my bottle conditioned high gravity beers need more sugar than usual to get the same perception of co2 pressure. Maybe it is the viscosity or something but I feel like on those big beers I need to up everything, by just a small amount of course.
skeezerpleezer
Well-Known Member
Depending on how long you age them, they will have different amounts of residual CO2 left in the beer. IF that residual CO2 is lower, you will need to add more priming sugar.
wobrien
Well-Known Member
So I'm planning this for my next brew. I historically overestimate by efficiency, and on a beer this big it will only be even more exaggerated. I plan on having some DME on hand just in case. I have a few questions on that front:
1. What type of DME should I use? Light?
2. How do I figure out how much I need to add, is there a formula? Say I'm shooting for 1.115 OG for a 5.5 gallon batch and I end up at 1.095, how do I figure out the amount to add?
3. When do I add it? Flameout would be my guess...
1. What type of DME should I use? Light?
2. How do I figure out how much I need to add, is there a formula? Say I'm shooting for 1.115 OG for a 5.5 gallon batch and I end up at 1.095, how do I figure out the amount to add?
3. When do I add it? Flameout would be my guess...
skeezerpleezer
Well-Known Member
Light would probably be best. You could determine the amount based on your preboil gravity. If you had 5.5g of 1.095 but were targeting 1.115, you would need 2.5lbs of DME (i used beersmith). For a big stout like this, I would just add it at the beginning. If you do add it at flameout, you may need to adjust your hops, as the utilization will be higher with a lower gravity boil.
FermentNEthinG
Well-Known Member
Just put the starter on the stir plate.
Going for a 12 gallon batch to be aged in a apple brandy barrel. I took Whizardhat's, Skibbs, AllenH and Skeezer's recipes and printed them out to mull over a final recipe this weekend. Should be a fun beer and I have a few Hunuhpu's on the way to test them against. Although I am more interested in the base beer more than anything.
Going for a 12 gallon batch to be aged in a apple brandy barrel. I took Whizardhat's, Skibbs, AllenH and Skeezer's recipes and printed them out to mull over a final recipe this weekend. Should be a fun beer and I have a few Hunuhpu's on the way to test them against. Although I am more interested in the base beer more than anything.
wobrien
Well-Known Member
I also just fired up the stir plate. I'm doing a two-step starter since I only have a 2L flask.
Anyone have a recommendation for a water profile? Not sure if I'm going to treat my water or build it from RO. Only my second time adjusting water, so a good profile would help a lot.
Thanks!
Anyone have a recommendation for a water profile? Not sure if I'm going to treat my water or build it from RO. Only my second time adjusting water, so a good profile would help a lot.
Thanks!
When I built my recipe and entered it into Brun-Water, I needed to cut my water with 80% distilled (my water has a LOT of Sulfate in it and I didn't want to accentuate the bitterness too much from all of the dark malt) and had to add some Sodium Bicarbonate back to it to get the pH back up. I am usually having to add acid to my water to get to the 5.2 range, but because this beer has SO much roasted malt in it, the pH is really low to begin with.
Which makes me wonder if that could contribute to the really low efficiency that some complain about. My efficiency will drop a couple of points on a big beer, but I always adjust my water to get back into the 5.2-5.4 pH range. I've never been more than 5pts lower on a big beer, so maybe the water adjustment helps me with the efficiency. Just a thought.
Anyway, I'm going to brew this in the next couple of weeks, but I'm going to make a couple of subtle changes to the secondary additions. I'm sticking with the cocoa nibs, cinnamon and vanilla bean, but I'm 86ing the chilies and going to use some dried sour cherries instead. I plan on bottling in 750ml Belgian bottles, corking and caging and then let them sit until around Valentine's Day next year.
Have loved following this thread. Cheers!
wobrien
Well-Known Member
I'm using the Bru'n Water Spreadsheet too. What "desired water profile" are you using at the top of tab 3 "Water Adjustment"? I'm assuming Black Balanced would be the way to go?
I used the "Black Balanced" profile. Mine didn't come out exactly on target, but close enough for government work. I just know that I had to add a ton of baking soda to the mash to get the pH back up to acceptable range.
Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
wobrien
Well-Known Member
Great, good to know. I'm on the other end of the spectrum, I'll be acidifying my water. Can't wait to brew this on Saturday!
Tasted my first sample of the oaked portion after a long day re brewing this recipe with a few adjustments. Extremely satisfied. The rum itself lends a unique character much different than bourbon oak, wonderful difference. Not sure if ill do bourbon next or rum again cause there are so many bourbon barrell so few rum barrelled beers on the market. I do not recommend oaking with rum that is low quality. I understand that very little flavor change since such low concentrations, but if keep it to a now aged rum they are so cheap anyways. Diplomatico or zacapa etc. No artificial crap.
Can anyone comment on their experiences with adding dried peppers? How much? How spicy was it?
I'm thinking about splitting my batch in half and bottling one half with no oak influence and the other half with some type of oak, but I hadn't decided yet. I was leaning towards bourbon, but I like your idea of using rum. I have a couple of great aged rums at home (Appleton, Mount Gay & Zaya) that I might use for an oak spiral.
Just got my grains last night and made my starter. Will step up the starter to a 2L and brew this weekend. Can't wait.
Sent from my iPad using Home Brew
Just got my grains last night and made my starter. Will step up the starter to a 2L and brew this weekend. Can't wait.
Sent from my iPad using Home Brew
I'm thinking about splitting my batch in half and bottling one half with no oak influence and the other half with some type of oak, but I hadn't decided yet. I was leaning towards bourbon, but I like your idea of using rum. I have a couple of great aged rums at home (Appleton, Mount Gay & Zaya) that I might use for an oak spiral.
Just got my grains last night and made my starter. Will step up the starter to a 2L and brew this weekend. Can't wait.
Sent from my iPad using Home Brew
Just got my grains last night and made my starter. Will step up the starter to a 2L and brew this weekend. Can't wait.
Sent from my iPad using Home Brew
skeezerpleezer
Well-Known Member
Part of mine is getting the poo treatment when I add spices/oak/liquor.
skeezerpleezer
Well-Known Member
Hunahpoopoo
Damn do if wish I had the hunahpoopoo this year. God knows it probably was gone in minutes. So that coffee was 99? Damn must be tasty.
StagsHead- I've never used spirals but I will say go light on the oak and do more time. I coulda gone even longer but it seems lower quantity and more time blends better an more complexly. I love the rum but bourbon is my first love. I'll definitely do one eventually, it's just so many commercial examples.
StagsHead- I've never used spirals but I will say go light on the oak and do more time. I coulda gone even longer but it seems lower quantity and more time blends better an more complexly. I love the rum but bourbon is my first love. I'll definitely do one eventually, it's just so many commercial examples.
skeezerpleezer
Well-Known Member
Nah, I just grabbed a bunch in Bali a couple days ago. That was rp ($9 or so for 3.5oz). It does cost up to $500-600 a lb in the US though, was $250 per pound at the Bali airport! Some fancy shops stateside sell it for like $75 a cup. It is good coffee, but not worth the cost outside of Indonesia.
I definitely drink more bourbon than rum, but I like the flavors that the rum could bring to the party, especially since I'm forgoing the chilies and going with the sour cherries.
I oak-aged an IIPA with one spiral for two weeks at cold temps earlier this year. I got a lot of oak character when the beer was young, but it has since faded. Since I will be aging this beer for months (if not years), I would think I would want a lot more oak at first in order to have it stand up to the aging.
I'm almost thinking in wine terms here. The bigger and more concentrated the wine, then the more oak it can handle. Some of these are almost undrinkable when young because of the concentrated fruit and the amount of oak character present, but as the wine ages in the bottle, the oak inevitably mellows over time and the spice characteristics come more to the forefront.
That's what I'm trying to do with this beer, but who knows. Trial and error are the best teachers.
Jammin- I cannot comment on the use of dried peppers. I remember there was a good video from left hand on the preparations of peppers. Also the postings on amounts from the barrels is the best i can recommend. Once I feel the base beer is ready I will start doing additions, not even willing to do coffee yet as I am still trying to do plane and oaked version down first.
^appreciate the feedback!
