55 gal, 16500 watt RIMS/Braumeister-ish Brewery Build

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jcmcdowell

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Location
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I'm stepping up from a 3 vessel propane keggle system to a variation on a RIMS/Braumeister with 2 vessels and all electric.

I'm using a 55 gal SS drum with 3-240v 5500w heating elements as the quasi heating vessel and a 35 gal, 140 quart SS stock pot, as the "malt pipe" or grain vessel, or mash tun.

The idea is 3 heating elements and one pump run by a controller and being able to brew about 40 gallons of average gravity beer.

The Braumeister uses a "malt pipe" inside the kettle like a bag in BIAB brewing and pumps UP the wort through the grains and it gravity flows back into the kettle (like a fountain). I like the simplicity of the system but for bigger applications a crane and 150 lbs of hot, wet grain sounds like too much work.

I decided to put the grain vessel along side the boil kettle and pump UP through the bottom of the grain vessel and gravity drain back into the boil kettle.

I'm waiting on some 300 micron screen and perf plate from Utah Biodiesel for the lower false bottom in the grain vessel and the top strainer that keep all the grain from getting in the boil kettle.

I can no sparge, possibly batch sparge, and with another pump fly sparge with this setup. It will depend on the efficiency in the end. I like my 3 vessel system with 2 march pumps and blichman terminator, but it's not real practical to UPSIZE the system to 1bbl or larger and trying to dump 150lbs of grain. The final frame will incorporate a tippy dump for the grain vessel.

I could possibly use the grain vessel with the 300 micron screen as a hop grant or like a hop rocket. It may be easier to just build a large hop rocket and stick it inside the 55 gal drum during the boil however.

I just got the two kettles back from the TIG welder, who welded on the tri clover ferrules. I built a test frame to test fit all the pieces together. I'll likely weld up a steel frame first to workout the kinks before building a stainless frame.

I'm using a SS 240v Chugger Pump and all tri clover fittings and valves. I bought the tri clover heating element fittings from Brewers Hardware.

For a controller I am adapting one of P-J's 3 phase plans (I have 3 phase) and only using the boil kettle side of the plan with a 50amp breaker feeding the whole system. I opted to go the Arduino route versus Auberins PID. I am working toward the Brauduino system developed by Mathos, an Australian for single vessel, Braumeister clone like operation. I've ordered a couple of the PCB boards, which are en route, to build a controller using a 40amp 3 phase SSR for the elements and an SSR for the pump.

I'm hoping to run a test SMASH batch mid January if I can get the controller built. I may run a batch on the wood frame to test layout before cutting steel.

So far, so good.

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I've built the frame. Put together most of the control panel- awaiting some key ingredients before I can fire her up.

The idea is the big kettle heats the water/wort with 3- 5500 watt 240v elements controlled by a PID. A chugger pump underneath recirculates the wort UP through the grain vessel and gravity drops the wort back into the big kettle.

TO sparge, pump hot water in from the T under the grain vessel up through the grain vessel. The input and output obviously would match- no need to adjust two pumps. When sparge is complete, drain grain vessel from underneath into a bucket and dump balance of wort into big kettle.

Raise temp to boiling. Here you could potentially use the grain vessel as a hop rocket or hop back or you could use a hop rocket in the boil kettle.

I'm missing a few bits from the controller and the false bottom and top for the grain vessel (due in 3 days).

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I bought the 55 gal SS drums from Bubbas Barrels.

Depending on his yet unknown price, I have my eye on his 120 gal conicals made out of the drums.

Down the list is the poly conicals.

I'm trying to buy a brite tank ($$$ at around $3,000)- which ironically will be more than both my brewing systems combined.

We want to set up a small seasonal nano in a town of less than a 1,000 people. I figure If I can back to back brew or build two of these rigs I can brew 3-4 bbls about 3x per week and stay up demand. That means 3 fermenters, 1 brite tank, and about 36 kegs to start. I would like to grow into serving tanks- but who can guess the future?

Here in Montana-I am more concerned with keeping the fermenters warm than I am cold. The building is wood stove heated and the temps past october stay below 50 degrees. If I can find the space,I will build a fermentation room and temperature control the room versus each fermenter.

I have seen DIY two stage adaptions for conicals using heating pads and stainless tubing coiled inside the conical circulated through a freezer controlled by a STC 1100 (I have 4 of them now). I'm not sure which would be more of pain in the ass- the room or the DIY for 3 or more fermenters. Depends on space and money I guess.

The brite tank would be in the walk in freezer, the serving kegs in a temp controlled 38 degree room, and the fermenter room would be around 66 degrees (I like Ales).
 
I received the package from Australia (AHB.com) containing the two DIY PCB boards for the Brauduino controller (search homebrewtalk for Braumeiser) and after a long day welding and wiring- I went ahead and soldered the board together. It took about three hours, half of which was trying to figure out the soldering iron hot spots (aaaarggghhh!) and downloading the libraries.

I downloaded the sketch and it booted up! The LCD screen works great.

I have to buy 5 or 6 switches and then wire the front of the panel. I am missing a 12v 2 amp AC to DC power supply on order from China so I might bastardize a thrift store power supply until it comes in.

Tuesday my perf plate and 300 micron mesh screen comes in. It will take a day or so to fit that and test.

I'm shooting for a 25 gal SMASH test run- but the clock is ticking and I'm running out of time.
 
I received all the bits and pieces but came down with a nasty bug that laid me out for a week! I did manage to wire up the Arduino board to the control panel and hot wire it into the 3 phase panel with a 50amp 3 phase breaker to test the controller.

I noticed a need to add a recirculation port onto the boil kettle to get the liquid up to temp before pumping to the mash vessel. It will also help gravity drain most of the liquid from the mash vessel into the boil kettle.

I also need to wire a pump bypass switch so I can move the liquid into the grain vessel to mash in after recirculating to get the liquid to temp.

I suspect the grain vessel will need armaflex insulation to keep the temps close.

I'm done and gone for the season. It'll be 4 months before I get back to playing with the brewery. I'll post more info and picts then...
 
Hi- Back in town, but not back in the brewery yet.

TTB app- 22 days in and onto Step 2 of the 3 step process!

I don't have an elegant solution for the tippy dump. I used 2 pieces of angle to form a V and welded on a piece of SS tube to the 35gal tank to rest in the V groove. I'm still working out a locking mechanism.

I got the perf SS sheets and the 300 micron sheets and while I am away my welder is cutting and fitting the top and bottom to the mash tank.

I have some new switches to wire, a pump bypass switch for manual control, and I need to add a tangential inlet to the boil kettle to bypass the grain vessel. After that it's time to test and brew a SMASH recipe!

I'd like to get a HOP rocket that is pretty deep for the 55 gal kettle. I also need to install the volume indicator to the tank.

I'll be back in the brewery August 20th to start work!
 
I want to build a second unit already (if it works). I plan on the next grain vessel to be a 35 SS drum that I can put a sealable lid. I have to test out the system to see what the max gravity I can hit with a 35 gal grain vessel (realistically about 30 gal of grain by volume).

I need to test out if I can use the 35 gal grain vessel to increase the boil kettle capacity and total volume of brewing. It would take something like a decoction mash to increase the volume versus a simple infusion mash. MAYBE I can get the total volume up to 2bbl with it?

Especially using crystal malts, I could soak the grains in a separate vessel and add that back to the boil to increase the total volume to the 2bbl volume recirculating the boil through the emptied grain vessel.
 
I am pretty much 90% certain I'm going with 110 gal POLY induction tanks. I'm planning on 4 with the stands, 1" closed cell insulation, and 50' 1/2" stainless coiled glycol cooling from a beer line chiller. I may have to add some kind of heater (pads or heated glycol line) because my building is not heated in the winter.

I'm hunting down a cheap walk-in as a serving room. I need a minimum of 10' x 12' for the serving/carbing room.

I picked up 30 PKA 1/2 barrel kegs in Tucson on the cheap, that should do for a couple of months!
 
It just hit me- I can double brewing capacity by simply adding a 110gal vertical tank. I make the 110 gal tank the boil kettle with the 3 heating elements and move the 55gal tank over as the grain vessel.

This way I can brew 3bbl in a single shot. That way I can single brew and fill the 110 gal induction tanks.

If I'm lucky I can find a 110 (plus or minus capacity) tank for $500-800.

The heating elements and controller can be interchangeable for smaller batches.

I'm now on the hunt for a 110gal vertical stainless single wall tank.

EDIT- After searching; Dairy Engineering is making me a tank that is 24" diam. with a volume of 120 gal. for $575- I'll cut and weld tri-clovers on the tank. I pick it up in Denver in 2 weeks.
 
Please forgive my ignorance on the matter but what is the logic for pumping up through the mash? I know the Braumeister system does it but I just don't understand the benefit. I'm a fan of unique thinking though so if it works good I'm all for it.

If you were to fly sparge, wouldn't you be back at a 3 vessel system again?
 
Please forgive my ignorance on the matter but what is the logic for pumping up through the mash? I know the Braumeister system does it but I just don't understand the benefit. I'm a fan of unique thinking though so if it works good I'm all for it.

If you were to fly sparge, wouldn't you be back at a 3 vessel system again?

Well...

Everybody raves how easy BIAB brewing is, but I can't see trying to raise a giant tea bag of grain out of 45-90 gallons of hot sticky wort.

The Braumeister looks pretty cool but $$. SO- I decided to put the grain vessel "on the side" versus "inside".

I think the big difference is I have one pump and really one three way valve to control for the whole brewing process. On my keggle during the sparge and transfer I have two pumps, 4 hoses, and 8 tri clamps going at one time.

I have an Arduino controller that semi-automates the whole process for the wort control. If I had to change a lot of hose or valves I couldn't do that.

Another issue is efficiency and compaction of the grain bed. Up pumping the grain bed you 'should' not have the same compaction issues. I 'should' be able to get a finer mill of the grain and increase efficiency.

What I really like about the Braumeister system is the compactness of the whole thing. I am trying to achieve a compact, efficient one man brewery. By adding the 120 gal tank, I can brew 3 bbl batches. Right now, a single unit build is running around $1500- I have 3 more 55gal SS drums, I could build another and because of the semi-automation, I could brew two batches for 6bbl or double brew/double batch for a potential 12bbl a day! Working alone- just the grain handling on a 7bbl system would be a lot of work.

(eek! Jump that to $2800 per unit for the 3bbl- the pump alone is $1300...http://www.brewmation.com/Pumps.html)

Because the boil kettle initially doubles as the HLT to get to mash-in temps, and the pump is connected directly to the boil kettle, there are some differences versus a 3 vessel system. I can no sparge, sparge by up pumping from the tankless water heater (or HLT with a pump). The system would constantly vorlauf because of the recirculating pump.

It's like I'm using the boil kettle as a great big HERMS system.

Hey- we'll see what happens.:)
 
Grain bed compaction, or lack thereof, is certainly a nice benefit. Stuck mashes aren't fun. If this works out as planned, you may have created a potential new compact system design for small brewpubs.
 
I was thinking more and more about this design and I'm starting to think that it's pure genius. You could actually add a 3rd tank to the setup and have a really sweet operation. Here's what I'm thinking. You mentioned wanting to use a 110 gallon tank as the kettle and then use the 55 gallon as the mash tun. How about adding a second 110 gallon tank on the other side of the mash tun? Instead of hard plumbing the pump into the system, you could use hoses with valves so you can move it. Add another drain to the top of the mash tun going to the second kettle. Place valves in each drain so you can close either off. Here's how you could operate on brew day.

Overnight or whenever or however you do it, fill each kettle with your hot liquor water. Heat up water in kettle #1 to strike temperature. Fill mash tun with grains and begin circulating to mash in. Treat this as you normally would. At the end of your mash, begin boiling contents in kettle #1. Reconnect hoses to the mash tun so that now the pump pulls from it and sends the remaining contents to kettle #1. You should have full volume as in the biab method. Once this procedure is done, connect the pump up to kettle #2. Drain the mash tun and refill with new grain batch. Begin mash recirculation operation from kettle #2 through the mash tun while kettle #1 boils. Kettle #1 may finish around the end of the kettle #2 mash time. You could then either end your brew day or refill kettle #1 with water and do it again. You could just overlap and go back and forth all day this way.

The method works in my head. How it works in practice may be something entirely different but if it does work that easy, it would be brilliantly simple. If the pump wasn't hard piped in, now it could be used to move wort from the kettles to the fermenters as well.
 
The question is one controller for two sets of heating elements or two separate controllers?

I've been working out a diagram so the pump can do double (or triple) duty as well.

KETTLE#1-----3 way valve-----pump input-----pump output----shut off valve----3 way valve----bottom of grain vessel shutoff valve...

EDIT- You need to think of the 3w valve-pump-valve-3w valve as ONE unit and consider what functions you can do with this system on the input and output side.

The KETTLE #1 3 way valve allows a hose to be hooked up to pump water into the kettle tank or pump water into the grain vessel to sparge (up pump)

The PUMP shut off valve allows you to throttle the pump (adjust pumping speed)

The grain vessel 3 way valve allows pump output to be directed to whirlpool port on kettle, or to a fermentation vessel. Normal operation allows recirculation through the grain vessel. You can also use the 3 way to gravity drain the grain vessel after sparge.

The grain vessel shut off valve on the bottom of the tank allows you to disconnect the hose to tip the tank to dump the spent grain.

I'll have to think about this some more but if each kettle had a shut off valve and a T and 3 way valve connected everything to the pump you could have the one pump pulling triple duty.

EDIT- I'll work on this more but it could be as simple as a "T" with KETTLE #1, KETTLE #2, 3 way valve- 3 way valve connected to "T", pump input, open for filling.

You'd have to wait until KETTLE#1 was transferred over for the boil before you could start filling KETTLE#2.

It'd be tricky timing to finish a mash and get KETTLE#2 ready for the boil in time to transfer the pump to KETTLE#1 to whirlpool and crash cool to the fermenter. I think you would have to adjust the boil time and maybe let the wort cool in the kettle to give you enough time.

Sounds interesting- I'm going to an auction tomorrow that has a bunch of pumps. I'm looking for a tri clover sanitary housing to use in the NEW 3bbl brewery! You need a strong enough pump to up pump and whirlpool.
 
I was trolling the forums and I ran across this:

www.brew-boss.com

He has a DIY controller that is very flexible and all things considered- very affordable.

I can retro-fit it into my existing Braumeiser setup or build a new one. It uses an Arduino micro controller coupled to a wi-fi shield and a Android tablet to run the app.

I'm excited how flexible it is in setting up the brew steps.
 
One thing I've got some concern with by using and upward pump through the mash is channeling. How would you prevent this? I've seen a couple of Braumeister videos on youtube that appear to show that this can happen. I wonder if it's due to the fact that their pump goes straight up into the kettle as opposed to entering in from the side?
 
One thing I've got some concern with by using and upward pump through the mash is channeling. How would you prevent this? I've seen a couple of Braumeister videos on youtube that appear to show that this can happen. I wonder if it's due to the fact that their pump goes straight up into the kettle as opposed to entering in from the side?

Use deflector/diffuser. In my case I am using a SS perf plate backed with a 300 micron SS mesh screen. It should diffuse the flow to float the grain. That's my theory anyways.
 
I got a call yesterday- 4 of the 110 gal induction tanks are being delivered Wednesday.

I pick up the 120 gal new boil kettle on Monday.

I went to a food processing auction on Wednesday and picked up 3 sanitary pumps, a bunch of stainless tanks (including a 200 gal steam jacketed tank), and 3 walk in coolers!

I picked up what looks like a SS pressure tank that I hope to make into a brite tank. The thing is about 6' long and at least 2' in diameter. It weighs about 400+ lbs!

I had three full size truck bed loads and 2 trailer loads. I ended up driving 24 hours in 2 days to get everything back to Darby, MT.

Next week I start construction on the brewery!
 
No not a real brew batch. For the longest time, I didn't have enough fermenter space at one time. Now I need to focus on construction.

I'll post photos and comments when I do...
 
I'm still trying to wrap my head around this...

How exactly is the mash filtered to the kettle? Are you using a false botton on TOP of the grain bed? What keeps pieces of husk and cloudy crud from flowing up and into the kettle?

I'm just one of those ridiculous people who could never BIAB because I want beautiful, crystal clear wort. I know everyone says it doesn't matter and the beer 'eventually' clears. I just can't get past that in my head.

Would love to see some pics down into the mash tun.
 
Have you ever seen how the Braumeister works? If not just search for it on Youtube. This is essentially the same thing but in two vessels instead of one. There is a "false bottom" below and above the grain bed.
 
Have you ever seen how the Braumeister works? If not just search for it on Youtube. This is essentially the same thing but in two vessels instead of one. There is a "false bottom" below and above the grain bed.

Eureka! FB sandwich! I've seen a few vids, but it's hard to see how clear the wort is. It looks just fine, but hard to tell if it leaves it cloudy still. I would imagine a little cloudy, but maybe not bad? I'd love to hear back after some trial runs. I've been racking my brain how to simplify the brewery, but I can't get myself on board yet.
 
I'm getting close to brewing. My TTB application is recommended for final disposition and the state of MT is dropping by for the final interview and site visit.

I'm still working on the building. I have a 9x18 walk in cooler about 70% assembled and should be complete monday. I have to frame a unisex bath and then the plumbers and electricians can do their jobs before we start setting the fixtures.

I have to pour a sidewalk and handicap parking spot and clean up the site before we can final the CO and open the doors, but I can start brewing as soon as FEDS say GO.

By the way, I'm doing all this on my own or with volunteer help. I am simultaneously building out a little 800 square foot residence for the family that is in the lot next door. I'm hoping by tomorrow night I'll have a flushing toilet and a hot shower!

My welder has my grain vessel installing the top and bottom screens. I'm in no rush- I'm too busy to worry about it anyways right now.

The clarity of the wort would not 'appear' to make a lot of difference as long as the husks are removed before the boil and transfer to fermenter. I would worry about astringency if they did transfer. I plan on fining with BioFine (I use gelatin in the home-brew) but no mechanical filtration because we don't package or need any extend shelf life at this time.

The braumeister has a filter under and above the grains- filtering out the solids. I used a domed false bottom on my keggle system and I have the same size perforated screen on the top and bottom of the grain vessel. In addition, I have a 300 micron screen that helps further filter the wort as it circulates.

I picked up a 200 gallon steam jacketed domed kettle on the cheap at an auction that I am scheming how to make into a similar boil kettle and be able to brew 6bbls at a time! I'm envisioning setting up a hot oil bath with a pump and an inline 3 phase heating element. The piping for the hot oil can be black pipe because it won't rust and won't be in contact with the wort. I would need a grain vessel that can handle approximately 400lbs of grain though (8 full bags of grain)! I'm thinking the 120gal tank I just had made would work. It could limit the potential gravity of beers you can brew or you just have to get creative and maybe steep crystal grains separately and then add them to the boil.

One step at a time. If the 45 gallon system works, I already have the vessels and pumps for a 90 gallon system. If that works, I have the 200gal tank and a 10hp 3 phase sanitary pump to get started. My ultimate goal would be able to brew approximately 350 gal at a time.
 
It was a big week here at "soon to be" Bandit Brewing Co. in Darby MT.

I finished up 99% of the rough in plumbing and the electricians showed up Thursday and jammed thru Friday. They come back Monday to wrap up loose ends but- I have more than one outlets to use in the whole building AND I have lights!

We had our framing inspection (for the 7' x 10' unisex restroom) and I hung the drywall. I have to get a "nail inspection" before I can tape and mud. I'm planning on 60 minute mud and be done with that part in a day.

My tankless water heater is installed but not wired. I can temporarily install the big 3 basin sink for water (no drains hooked up- only 5 gal buckets for now) and I could possibly maybe brew a 5 gal batch Sunday afternoon.

We kicked our last keg and I'm so close to being to brew!

The brewery side is starting to look very "commercial" like.

JAT (Just another thousand) spent on armaflex, ferm fittings, and tasting room items. Besides the actual AC units that I intend to convert into Glycol Chillers (and the glycol that goes in them) I have enough parts to to start putting things together and locating the equipment!

We're running out of money (we knew we would). We have a 18' camper, '95 Landcruiser, and 2- 12' enclosed single axle trailers for sale to refill the brewery "get open" coffers. I'm hoping we can smoothly sell and then spend to get the brewery open.

Besides site work- I can split my time and start putting the brewery equipment into place. There's still a lot of loose ends but each day we are one step closer!
 
I just received my 4 custom stainless glycol cooling coils for the 110gal plastic induction tanks!ImageUploadedByHome Brew1412209404.437071.jpg
 
Bandit Brewing Co. received out TTB approval letter via email this morning! Now to wrap brewery construction, get my health approval, and pass the fire marshall and I can actually brew some beer!
 
I started working on the brew rig again. My 35 gallon kettle is nowhere near round- more oval. Making cutting the perf disc fun.

The stainless is pretty thin on the kettle- making it tricky to TIG because of all the expansion and movement.

Due to my experience with cutting the top perf filter- I ordered a 15" diameter by 1-1/4" deep "hop blocker" from Nor Cal brew to act as my bottom filter.

We spot welded in the top ring an then spot welded in doublers around the key points. Then spot welded the tapered keys that locks the top plate in the kettle.
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It locks in- well have to see how much pressure the water puts on the plate and if it pushes through grain husks. I have 300 micron sheets that I can double the plate with for additional filtration if needed.

So far- it would be far simpler to build this with a square grain vessel. The top perf could be hinged and cutting an welding would be simplified.

I work on the electronics next until the bottom filter arrives.
 
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