50amp Extension Cord for 30amp Dryer Outlet?

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WhiteArmadilloBrewing

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I pulled my dryer power cord out to see what kind of receptacle it had in order to buy an extension cord to run the 40' or so from that outlet to my control panel in the garage (I don't have 240v access in there... yet.) Anyway, discovered it is a NEMA 14-30R which resembles an oven/range 50a style connector. I found a great deal on a 40' 50amp 10/4 RV cord but have a question. Can I use this since it is rated for 50amps on my 30amp dryer circuit? It will run from that outlet to a 50amp spa panel. If not, should I find an extension cord that is rated for 30amp and just swap the connectors out?

Thanks!
 
I think the issue is not the 50A wire, but is the 50A spa panel. You can either replace it with a 30A GFCI which are expensive or install a normal 30A breaker immediately downstream of the 50A spa panel GFCI. The dryer outlet receptacle and probably the wiring can't handle 50A.
 
There should be a 30amp breaker behind the dryer receptacle so no issue there, no need for 30a gfci or another breaker, the 50a gfci in the spa panel is fine. Just know your obviously building a 30a system, not a 50a.
 
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From an electrical point of view, you’re using a cable that has 66% more current capacity than you need, so no problem there.
From a code point of view, you’re using a cable that would enable you to plug a 50amp load, into a 30amp circuit, so that is a problem.
Practically speaking, it’s not permanent, so as long as you enforce the 30 amp limit, it should be fine. I’ve done the same before.
 
From an electrical point of view, you’re using a cable that has 66% more current capacity than you need, so no problem there.
From a code point of view, you’re using a cable that would enable you to plug a 50amp load, into a 30amp circuit, so that is a problem.
Practically speaking, it’s not permanent, so as long as you enforce the 30 amp limit, it should be fine. I’ve done the same before.

OK, that's what I figured. Secondary question, I found some bulk 10-4 SEOW cable that is connector-less. Price would be comparable. Should I just buy the bulk and install 30a connectors on the cable or just ensure I'm not exceeding a 30a build on the control panel/rig side?
 
I would use 30a plugs. You wouldn't want someone to accidentally plug your 30a control panel into a 50a service unless the control panel was designed with the appropriate protection.
 
I would use 30a plugs. You wouldn't want someone to accidentally plug your 30a control panel into a 50a service unless the control panel was designed with the appropriate protection.

Yeah, that sounds like a safe(er) bet. Just made an offer on eBay for a 50' roll of 10/4 SEOW. *fingers crossed*
 
Since I’ll be installing my own connectors can I install male ends on both side so I can use a female receptacle on my spa panel? Or is it better to wire it up conventionally with a male/female then install a make recoetacle on the spa panel?
 
Negative. That would be extremely dangerous. Not to sound like a dick but I'll leave you to think about that for a moment as to why that's a bad idea.



This is one of the best replies I’ve ever read.
 
So do I need to go 8/4 in order to be safe and drop 30a plugs if I want to go this route? It's confusing sometimes with so much conflicting commentary on the threads. Some say 10/4 is more than enough, some say it's no where near enough...
 
FYI I went to the Southwire website, the mfr of the cord I last linked above, and there they say the 10/4 is only good for 25A. I don't know what to tell ya.

Can you find #8/4 cord?

I suppose just running a new 220v circuit to your garage is a no go? You can find 10/4 30a dryer cords at the big box store w/ plugs but they only come in 10' lengths, im guessing you already knew that.
 
Yeah, I knew that one. I've been waiting on an electrician buddy of mine for a while now and he says he's going to get around to installing a 240v circuit in my garage. Until then I'd like to brew...

So, yeah, I guess I'll find some 8/4. Back to my very original post, maybe the best bet is to buy that 50amp RV Cord (assuming it's 8/4) and just swap out plugs. Oh what a full circle we just made lol
 
4/c #10 is indeed only rated for 25 amps but be aware that this is a code thing, not a limit based on physics. idea is that all four conductors could conceivably be carrying current and cause heating issues if more than 25 amps is pumped through it. for an elec brew setup, only three conductors will actually carry current and one of those is the neutral which is only picking up tiny 120v loads like pumps and lights, a couple amps tops. so it is technically a code violation to use it but practically, no worry at all.
 
Ok, thanks for the clarification. Should I just go for the 8/4 RV cable to be safe(er)? The price is comparable with what I've found on eBay. I'll have to swap plug ends regardless...
 
4/c #10 is indeed only rated for 25 amps but be aware that this is a code thing, not a limit based on physics. idea is that all four conductors could conceivably be carrying current and cause heating issues if more than 25 amps is pumped through it. for an elec brew setup, only three conductors will actually carry current and one of those is the neutral which is only picking up tiny 120v loads like pumps and lights, a couple amps tops. so it is technically a code violation to use it but practically, no worry at all.

This is absolutely correct. It's a heat thing. You wouldn't be using the neutral to it's full capacity, so you would be fine.
 

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