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30Amp E-HERMS w/ 3 Keggles Build

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micahwitham

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Joined
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Seems like everyone enjoys a new build around here so I figured I would add mine to the mix. Not because I think I have something amazing to offer to the conversation but so there's more pics to look at to pass the time away.
Pics in order are
1. Old Brutus 10 system w/ 1 pump
2. Beginnings of new brew stand w/ bottom draining MLT
3. Sandtoast Mahogany & Cherry top (brother is in hardwood floors)
4. EHERMS Bling
5. Control Panel cut and painted

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1. Heat Sink Locations
2. Bottom of Panel where plugs & Power will go
3. Waiting for 2 lights and powered key
4. Inside of panel

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I see the mypin pids but is the other one a timer or an auber with manual mode? if so.. You might want to look at the mypin TD4 it has manual mode but works just like your other pids otherwise making it consistent and easier to use and remember how to make quick changes...(ask me how I know) They are cheap...$26 for just the pid shipped or 35 with ssr and heatsink.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0087O6S2A/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
 
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Augiedoggy - I have 3 mypin's
1 - HLT
2 - MLT
3 - Chiller Out
The Auber is for the boil kettle for % of full power capabilities to be able to control the boil better. Unfortunately they are all purchased and paid for so there's no going back now.
 
I like that stand, and I'm looking forward to seeing your bottom drain MLT. What are you doing for a false bottom?
The false bottom was built by Jaybird (or at least that's what the guy told me) and it's a dead nuts perfect fit for the bottom of the keggle. Barely 1/8th of inch gap at any point all the way around the keggle so it's the perfect amount of space between the bottom of the screen and the bulge in the keg and with the bottom drain there will literally be NO loss in the mash tun of fermentables!

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Seriously nice looking woodwork on that brew table. I'll be following!
 
hunter306 - thx for the kind words on the table. I got lucky in that a buddy of mine had a bunch of left over cherry from a floor they installed and they were perfect lengths for the table.
I've noticed you comment quite a bit in the EBrew forum so I had a quick question regarding the indicator lights.
On accident, I ordered these http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DUW2LO8/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
instead of the 110v that would have one hot wire and one to the neutral bus.
Any thoughts on how I might wire these up so I don't have to return them?

Also, I don't have a timer but I want to use the alarm function on the PID's with my buzzer. I haven't found any wiring schematics except for Kal's which of course has the Omega timer. Any help would be appreciated.
Thx
 
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220v LEDs will work on 120v but may be a little dimmer depending on how they're made. There's no polarity so it doesn't matter which side is hot and which is neutral.
 
So I could wire them the same as the 110 with a HOT and a NEUTRAL and be fine is what you're saying? Has anyone done this before and if so how much more dim are the they?
 
Pj I'm not sure I understand what you mean. I just upload the photos in the "manage photos" window that comes up. What would be better? Any examples
 
Pj I'm not sure I understand what you mean. I just upload the photos in the "manage photos" window that comes up. What would be better? Any examples

They show up normally one over another for me, perhaps it was a forum glitch earlier or a display setting on the reader side? Also, great thread thanks, why did you put the mash tun on the end/over the pumps?
 
Also, great thread thanks, why did you put the mash tun on the end/over the pumps?
The Pumps at this point are not attached to the stand. They are on a little bracket that I built like the one Kal built in the Electric Brewery site.
As for the Mash tun, I've got a small home made hood that will only allow me to boil in the middle of the stand, this forces my hand a little bit because the MLT and HLT are on opposite ends of the stand. I may end up putting the pumps in the middle but not sure yet.
The MLT I have is a bottom draining triclover with a false bottom built by Jaybird which is why I have that "notch out" in the brew stand to be able to get access to the valve on the bottom.
I'll take some better pictures when I get everything cleaned up of the actual system and its in's and out's.

Here's my hood below

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Ah that makes sense, thanks.

P-J, sorry man, your post with the pictures looks exactly the same as micawithanm's to me (on my ipad in safari) which really makes me think it's a browser glitch on your end. Does it look different in chrome vs IE vs Firefox or something else for you?
 
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