30A Receptacle Options

[teamrushpntball]

Finishing up my control panel build this weekend and still haven't decided what I am doing for the receptacle from the breaker box.

My current plan is the following:

1. Install new L14-30R receptacle next to my existing 3-pin dryer outlet on a new 30A breaker.
2. Run wire with L14-30P from 50A Spa Panel to new receptacle (~8ft).
3. Hard wire 50A Spa Panel to new control box (no reason to need to separate spa panel and control box than I can think of).

Control panel handles a single 5500W Element and single pump for BIAB. Using a Raspberry Pi for control, 40a SSR for Element, 5v Relay board for the 120v chugger pump.

This seem like a good idea, or is there a vastly better way I'm overlooking? Would prefer to not hard wire the Spa Panel into the breaker panel.

 

[specialkayme]

I'd avoid #1. You want the GFCI option the spa panel offers.

The only thing to consider with #3 is heat that is generated by all the elements in the control box. Not sure what you're using, or if that will be an issue or not, but putting it all in one box puts all your eggs in one basket in the event of an overheating issue.

I'm assuming the wiring in your wall to the dryer element is currently rated for 30a, so I would not consider putting the 50a spa breaker where your current 30a dryer breaker is.

Why not put the spa panel right next to the dryer outlet? A short cord, maybe 3 feet, from the current outlet to the spa panel, outlet right next to the spa panel (or in it), and an 8 foot cord from the new outlet to the controller? It'll break down easily.

 

[teamrushpntball]

Sorry those were listed as steps, not options.

Figured I'd keep the Spa panel and control box close together with the cable from the spa panel running the 8ft length to the new outlet.

Have the spa panel and such, was just looking for the best way to wire it to the breaker box without hardwiring it in.

 

[specialkayme]

Ah. Ok. Sorry.

You could do what you described. Or you could get a 3 prong dryer cord, wire it from the current dryer outlet to the spa box, put a 3 prong dryer outlet on the spa box and a L14-30 outlet on the spa box, pigtail both outlets either before or after the GFCI breaker, then run a L14-30 cord from the outlet on the spa box to the controller. That way you aren't hard wiring a L14-30 outlet next to your dryer outlet.

 

[teamrushpntball]

Isn't the three prong off the dryer outlet hot + hot + ground/neutral? I think I need the 4-prong for the separated neutral and ground?

So with your suggestion I'd be going 3-prong -> Spa Panel -> 4-prong -> Control Panel? Wouldn't it be better to just install the new 4-pin receptacle so all 4 wires are ran the entire length?

 

[specialkayme]

Does your heating element use a L14-30, or a L6-30?

My understanding was the heating element operates off hot + hot + ground. So you can have 4 wires going from the outlet to the spa panel, and 4 wires going from the spa panel to the controller, but only 3 wires will be going to the heating element either way.

The benefit of having 4 wires (2 hots, neutral & ground) running to the spa panel is the ability to run 110v off the panel. If you don't want to do that, I don't know that it matters.

I Wouldn't it be better to just install the new 4-pin receptacle so all 4 wires are ran the entire length?

Does your 3 pin dryer outlet have 4 wires in it?

If it does, sure. Wire up another outlet in line. If not, you'll have to run new wires to get the 4 wires to the outlet to power the spa panel. If you're doing that, I don't know why you'd run wires to install a new outlet, to plug a panel into it. Just run the wires to install the panel directly. If you don't want to run the wires, you'll have 3 wires going to the spa panel and 4 going out (if you want to).

The better option is to have 4 wires going the whole way. I assumed you didn't have 4 wires coming out of the wall.

 

[teamrushpntball]

Heating element is off a L6-30 which is hot - hot - ground. Was intending to run the controller and a chugger pump off the 110v from the 4-wire. My 3-pin is only three wire.

Was intending to install the new receptacle simply so that the entire assembly would be removable if I so chose. The existing dryer outlet is within a few feet of the box anyway.

 

[specialkayme]

If I were you, I'd do 3wire from dryer outlet to spa panel, pigtail 3-pin outlet (for dryer) and L6-30 outlet. That will give you 3 wires from start to finish. I'd then run the controller and chugger pump off another standard outlet (not spa panel).

You could re-run a 4 wire from the breaker to the spa panel, then have 4 throughout, but that's a pain.

You could also join the neutral to the ground in the spa box, which would mean 3 wires into the spa box, but 4 out. Many on here have done it, and you can find wiring photos galore through a search. But I wouldn't be comfortable with it, and I don't think it's code compliant.

 

[doug293cz]

Heating element is off a L6-30 which is hot - hot - ground. Was intending to run the controller and a chugger pump off the 110v from the 4-wire. My 3-pin is only three wire.

Was intending to install the new receptacle simply so that the entire assembly would be removable if I so chose. The existing dryer outlet is within a few feet of the box anyway.

Yes, installing a new 4 slot receptacle is the way to go. You can either put a GFCI breaker in the main service panel, and skip the spa panel, or put a regular breaker in the service panel, and use the spa panel between the new receptacle and the brew controller. The spa panel can be hardwired to the brew panel if you wish. You say you want to use an L14-30 (twist locking) plug/receptacle, which will work, but the 14-30 plug/receptacle is the more common 4 wire dryer arrangement, and may be cheaper.

You should also consider a mechanical disconnect to remove power in the case of an SSR failure. If the spa panel breaker lever is accessible with the spa panel enclosure closed, then this will work if it's located close to the brew panel. If not you can use something as simple as a Leviton 3032 DPST 30A switch (looks like a common light switch), or you could put a contactor in the brew panel.

Brew on

 

[teamrushpntball]

I'll post my design later tonight just for confirmation. In the control panel I have the hot going to a https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=69_77&products_id=580 switch. One 110v line is split off to a push button so I can have power to the rPi before anything else.

Similarly, the spa panel will be 3-4 feet from the control panel anyway.

 

[augiedoggy]

I'll post my design later tonight just for confirmation. In the control panel I have the hot going to a https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=69_77&products_id=580 switch. One 110v line is split off to a push button so I can have power to the rPi before anything else.

Similarly, the spa panel will be 3-4 feet from the control panel anyway.

why not just run the pi powersupply off 240v? most are 120or 240 input along with the pids and such.

Never mind I see you want to be able to power the pi with the panel off.

 

[teamrushpntball]

Well, I hadn't thought to consider a 240v power supply is the main reason. But being able to turn it on without the rest being powered I believe will be better anyway.