Have you noticed it has a lot of trub on use sides after a boil?
Also any idea of what type of efficiency you're getting?
I skimmed back through this thread....did I miss any suggestions for low pressure steam? If you could boil the wort by pushing steam through the jacket WITH THE OUTLET COMPLETELY UNRESTRICTED, you would be able to eliminate the element. Then, you could later use the jacket for chilling and maintaining wort temps.
Do you think the valve is responsible for the slow draining of the hop/break sludge? I've been thinking about swapping that ball valve out for a butterfly valve. The opening on the ball valve looks like it's quite restrictive compared to the opening on the triclover.
Well, I haven't seen anything on this specific topic.
I've had a 120v HERMS mash system for a over a year now but have been using propane for the boil.
Recently, I've been looking to go electric on my brew kettle. Through that search, I discovered the 3-in-1 "Boil Kettle, Jacketed Chiller, Conical Fermenter" by Brewha. I've seen nothing on the forum yet either debating its design, or any posts from early adopters. It seems amazingly promising.
Check it out:
http://brewha.co/products/3-in-1
Long story short, I decided to pull the trigger on it, so mine is "in the mail" as they say.
I'll periodically update my experiences (which are hopefully excellent) for general consumption of the community. Wish me luck!
Cheers,
Mike
Full Disclosure: I have no private or public interest in Breha or its products. My post is simply for information purposes only.
I ended up upgrading to the BIAC instead of just the 3-in-1. Brewha has upped the size of the conical from 67 liters to 80, allowing you to brew a 10g batch in the single vessel. I can't wait to get this thing in my hands.
Here is a question I've been having though, what is the actual mashing capacity? The conical is 20 gal, the colander is 15. I was trying to calculate out what kind of high gravity 10 gal batch I'd be able to do. My barleywine recipe is 54 lbs, but I currently do it in my 25 gal kettle.
Wouldn't the limiting factor still be the size of the conical portion? So it would be the same as doing a 10g BIAB in a 20g pot? I could be off on that logic, but I'm thinking the limitation is the amount of space that the water + grain will take up in the conical before it overflows.
If you add a "sparge", then your capacity limit would likely be the size of the colander (the amount of grain the colander can actually hold).
I guess thats the portion I'm trying to wrap my head around. There is obviously more dead space in the conical portion, not allowing full use of 20 gal. But then the colander is taller than the conical.... Think I could figure it out with it in front of me, but having a hard time visualizing how all the water and grain finds a equilibrium through the two separate pieces.
I'm thinking it would still be the 20g. You can't have anything higher than the height of the conical itself, otherwise the liquid will spill out between the colander and the conical.
While the kettle may be 20-21 gallons you will need to save a 1/4 of it for head space in the conical. So you biggest batch should be about 15 gallons. If you put in more you just blow the excess out the blow off tube.
Still even if you get 12 gallons of beer it is replacing two 6 gallon carboys
But i still need a HLT to do a proper sparge
Thats what I'm thinking too. Except it wont be 20 gal, since the colander can't go all the way to the bottom of the conical. So I'm not sure why the colander sticks up so much higher than the conical, except for the tri-clover fitting attached to it.
If you are recirculating the mash shouldn't the space under the colander not be an issue. I think you could also use a hoist to raise and hold the colander providing space for sparging.
My biggest concern with the water faucet solution is coming home to a leak that's been running all day. At least with the closed loop you're limited to the volume of liquid in the circuit.
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