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2007 Hop Rhizomes

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Orpheus said:
You know it's bad when I decide to grow my own hops. I can't be bothered to pull the weeds (not the good kind) from the flower beds in the back of my house. My thumb has been certified deadlier to plants than Chuck Norris is to bad guys.

Yet, I'm willing to give the growing of hops a try. I'm in too deep I tells ya, in too deep.

BTW, how many rhizomes will I need to begin yielding a sufficient crop for brewing? I'm thinking of going all Centennial or Centennial/Cascade.

One rhizome. It will take approximately 2 years to get a decent yield for brewing with. My second year Northern Brewer gave me about 4 oz. (wet) IIRC. I am expecting double that (or more) this season.


mew said:
Is there any way to estimate the alpha acid percentage of home-grown hops? That's mostly whats keeping me from 'em.

Using the guidelines of the hop is the only way--secondary to sending them into a place that does a true analysis.

Whelk said:
Man, I can't wait for my six rhizomes to come--two Fuggle, two Kent Golding, two Sterling. My only problem...seriously, what the hell am I going to do with 6 to 18 pounds of hops? :confused:

In two years you mean,. right? Don't expect much of a yield this year or next, honestly.

Whelk said:
You can estimate it, but only within the usual range of the hop (at least, as far as I know). I've been told not to use them for bittering, only for flavor or aroma.

Why? Use a general guideline of the hop and just go with it. If the human tongue can't distinguish a difference of <10 IBU's, you can still get pretty close to accurate. I say just brew with them and screw the IBUs. You'll get close enough.

I'd err on the low side though, when concocting a recipe.
 
Brewpastor said:
I think I will plant a bunch up here in the high desert of New Mexico and watch them die.


I grew some in Taos last year. The Jumbo rhizomes (Cascades) sprouted and the vines gew about 9-11 feet with south west facing exposure. The smaller rhizomes sprouted and wilted back durning the dog days of summer. I could have done a better job of watering.

Anyway, try planting on the northeast side of your home or in some area that does not have 100% sun exposure and you will do fine. I dug my holes in the adobe clay earth and filled them with steer manure. (1.49 a yard at wall mart). New mexico clay earth does not promote sprouting rhizomes. Manure works great! You should be fine in Corrales....but go for the jumbos at freshops.com. Gives you one heck of a head start.
 
I think I will plant a bunch up here in the high desert of New Mexico and watch them die.

Since most of the hops grown in the US are grown around here (and the inland deserts of Washington), it's really just a matter of irrigation. Once a week soakings don't work (ask me how I know). I've been told when it hits 100F, every other day deep waterings are needed. 85-100F every 3-4 days is enough. Most of the hop growers here are switching to drip irrigation.

It basically takes as much water to keep your hops growing as it would to grow Kentucky bluegrass. Fortunately, less of an area to water and hops are more useful.

RB - you can train hops to grow horizontally. Just run a guide & keep tying them down.
 
the_bird said:
So, when are you supposed to plant them? How warm does it have to be before they can go in the ground? When do they get shipped out to you?

I didn't see an answer to your question yet so here it is. You have to be out of danger of having another frost so I guess once you know it's warm enough not to frost, plant away! How you're really suppose to know that for sure, I don't know. Planting around here will start in late March-early April so I'd guess late April for you.
 
2 questions,

What do I do with the rhizomes if I don't plan on planting them right away?

I know they need frequent watering but should they be planted in a more-wet part of my yard or a dryer part of my yard? Some parts of my yard can stay pretty soggy for a few days after it rains.
 
todd_k said:
2 questions,

What do I do with the rhizomes if I don't plan on planting them right away?

I know they need frequent watering but should they be planted in a more-wet part of my yard or a dryer part of my yard? Some parts of my yard can stay pretty soggy for a few days after it rains.

Keep them moist and cool. Put a damp paper towel nside a plastic ziploc, throw that in the warmest part of your fridge.

They LOVE water. Soggy, okay, underwater, not okay.
 
sw mich brewer
BELLS has hop rhizomes in for purchase 2.50 ea
12-18 varieties
got me a fuggle there
with a golding and williamette on order from midwest:rockin:
 
anyone know of a variety that grows well in southern heat? i tried years ago to grow some and it grew well until the hades-like heat kicked in. then disaster. looking for some tips from some southerners.
 
Water, lots of water. In the Washington/Oregon hop regions 100-105F and 16 hours of sun are normal. I had 89 days without rain. Water every 2 days when the temperature is over 100F.
 
Whelk said:
You can estimate it, but only within the usual range of the hop (at least, as far as I know). I've been told not to use them for bittering, only for flavor or aroma.

I've given this advice about not using them for bittering. I took this from the Homebrewers Garden Book that I have on hand. The authors think its a waste to use fresh hops for bittering. You boil away all the freshness; flavor & aroma. They indicated that dry hops (pellets) are better for bittering because you know the bittering potential. They are cheap and readily available at the LHBS, so why waste precious fresh hops for bittering?

I agree with this opinion. The fresh hops should be saved for late additions unless you have tons to use up. Personally, if had that much hops I would do two other things before bittering with them. Either give them to my other brewing buddies or make a fresh hop beer using the undried green hops.

This reminds me of a thing I saw on "The History of Beer" on A&E. This one micro brewery was using green hops to flavor their beer. They took beer from either a primary or 2ndary and pumped it through a large screw on cartridge filter. They completely removed the filter and filled the thing full of green hops and pumped the beer threw it to another vessel. A new meaning to a hop filter! I thought it was pretty cool.

:mug:
 
I just planted two each of Northern Brewer and Willamette that I got from Williams Brewing. Still waiting on the 4 Cascade from Northern Brewer to arrive.
 
I was just out working on my hop bed and noticed my Cascades are already up and about 2" tall.....Can't wait for some "Freshed Hopped Ale".
 
I am looking to buy a few rhizomes to try my hand at growing some hops and at ~$4 each I figured why not. I live in Atlanta, GA and I was hoping someone would be able to give me suggestions as to what varieties I should look at getting. Since I am a fan of all varieties of beer that is not an issue, i just want something that will grow well here and give a decent yield. On that note, is there any hope that I will be able to grow enough to brew with (or dry hop)? For that to happen, about how many plants should I look at getting?

Thanks for your help.

Also, I am looking at freshops.com is that a good source or there is somewhere else to look.
 
Fuggles, Cascade & NB have sprouted! 25 Mar.

Freshops is a good source.

Once your plants are established plant on 1-4 pounds DRIED per plant. If you have something like Magnum it can run 10+ pounds.
 
So I did some more reading. I am going to go with Cascade for sure. Freshops.com recommends Nugget for beginners, but since this is a bittering hop I'd rather not bother.

So I guess my question becomes is there another high-yield, good-for-beginners, flavoring/aroma hop I should try to grow?

Also, about what will be yield for the first year per cascade plant?
 
Nugget also works for flavor and aroma. One of the best IPAs at last fall's Fresh Hop Fest was all Nugget.

Fuggle can do very well in most areas, as can East Kent Golding.
 
Woohoo! My cascades are 3" tall and have five bines coming out of the ground. I also traded a sixer of my drop top clone for some Nugget and Mt. Hood rhizomes (50 mi round trip and the SWMBO thinks I was insane to do it) and already have them planted.

Yess...... my precioussesss... grow for daddy.... yess.... *rubs hands gleefully*
 
I just placed my order for 2 cascade and 2 williamete Rhizomes. Now I am off to the Depot to figure out how i will erect a trellis for them.
 
Has anyone who pre-ordered from Northern Brewer gotten theirs yet? I preordered in February and still haven't gotten mine. Think I'll cal them tomorrow.
 
woo hoo,
my golding and williamette came in yesterday from midwest. now where did i put that pvc pipe from the duck blind?:mug:
 
Still waiting for 'zomes from NB. Ordered early march. hope they show up this week.

Just saw weather forecast for this week and it says lows in the 20's at night around here. So I guess I don't need to be in any big hurry to get in ground.
 
uuurang said:
Mr. Whelk, what did northern brewer tell you when you called?


They said they were harvesting and that my order would be shipped out a week from the day I posted on here, but then I actually received my hops two days later. I'd give them a call if you haven't gotten yours yet, though there probably isn't a problem.
 
Ok, i just received 4 rhizomes in the mail from B3. One of the rhizomes appears to be nothing more than a stick. no sprouts shooting out of it or anything. and it looks dry as a bone. will this produce anthing?
 
Sweetness!!! Came home to find 4 pack of centennial, cascade, mt. hood & brewers gold smelling earthy and moist. AAAhHHH. Me so happy now! Just gotta wait till it warms up a bit.

FWIW, did ya know the northern brewer store is going to be open for easter sunday regular hours. Double sweetness! I' m in.
 
Reverend JC, rhizomes being little more than a stick is normal. It's actually a root offshoot and if it's still alive will grow just fine. Plant it and water it every day and it should be alright.
 
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