12x12x6 BCS-460 Control panel is a tight fit

[Brew52]

No problem, I'm building my electric keggles with these elements. Good luck!

Good luck with your keggles. Here is the part number for the 1" NPS Stainless Nut from McMaster-Carr that is needed for the Heater Elements if you don't already have them: PART # 4464K586 approximately $6.00 each.

 

[mux]

I got them from here.
http://www.google.com/search?q=bargain+fittings&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en&client=safari

 

[Brew52]

I got them from here.
bargain fittings - Google Search

Looks like we paid about the same price when you factor in the shipping. Thanks for the link. I remember seeing that website awhile ago, but forgot to save it to my favorites (done now). Here is a site that I ordered several items from and they have been awsome! both in quality and shipping: Brewers Hardware, LLC. You probably know about this site, but if you don't you will be like a kid in a candy store browsing their stainless.

 

[ccrum]

You can buy liquid tight ethernet pass-throughs here :

External Watertight Ethernet Connector System

I actually have tons of them too and will sell them for $6 shipping included if anyone wants one. It will save you the shipping costs. Hit offlist at [email protected] if you'd like one.

 

[ccrum]

For those looking for a cheap wireless bridge, I've got a bunch of Senao NL 2611 CB3 + Deluxes that I'll let go for $10 each + shipping. They are used, but still run like champs. The new firmware is supposed to handle WPA and I'll try to verify (previously they were WEP only). The boards are easy to take out and you could mount them inside your controller box and the antenna on the outside. Hit me off list at [email protected] if you are interested.

 

[ccrum]

Camco Nickel/Chromium Incoloy Premium LWD Screw-In Electric Water Heater Element (15597) from The Home Depot

Just curious on these...how hot can they actually get? Are they useful for HL as well? MY system is direct fire right now, but am looking to build a more mobile unit. Replacing 2 burners would be nice.

 

[Brew52]

Just curious on these...how hot can they actually get? Are they useful for HL as well? MY system is direct fire right now, but am looking to build a more mobile unit. Replacing 2 burners would be nice.

Since my system isn't ready for startup yet, the best answer I can provide is for you to search youtube for "electric brewing systems" videos and you will find that several brewers are using these elements and as you will see in the videos, they get plenty hot enough in a short period of time with 5-10 gallons of wort or hot liquor. I bought two of these elements with full confidence that they will work great in my RIMS tube and Boil Kettle.

 

[Bsquared]

So I had a bit of a set back a few weeks back, I was using Solder flux for stainless, when I needed to be using Brazing flux...well I over heated my old HLT and cracked it ! the good thing was I had an extra keg, and the old HLT was a little rigged so Im not too sad about the loss just the loss of time. Last night I did my final leak test an installed the element float switch, and this morning I fired her up. HLT is heating away just fine, Piolt lights light up, wireless needs a little work, but I can connect to the BCS over its own network so that fine. Now Im just heating up some PBW in the HLT to get it nice and clean before brewing.

keeping my fingers crossed.

 

[Bsquared]

Wow that worked way better than I thought. Stared at 11am and had wort in the fermentation chamber by 4:30... Pitched at 8:00pm. Can't wait to put the element in my boil kettle. Propane sucks.

 

[Bsquared]

Finally got the kettle finished! ready to brew Tuesday. I was going to braze fittings onto my Kettle, but I really like my Vorlof kettle, and think Im going to wait till i learn to TIG weld really well. A shop Makers place just opened up about 2 miles from where I live, and with a $150/month membership few I'll have access to all the welders and CNC laithes and what not.

Any way I went all weldless fittings for my kettle. No leaks, easy!

 

[Bsquared]

Today was the first all E brew day, here are some pictures. This was the first time using the in-line O2 system. All in all I really impressed with the ease the electric system and how freaking fast those 5500W elements heat.

 

[sethhobrin]

Can you post pictures of how you did your weldless fittings for the elements?

 

[Bsquared]

I'll take some pictures when I get home, but basically I duplicated Kal's method, but I did not use a shim, and my silicone O-ring is on the inside of the kettle. I got the 1" locknut from bargain fittings that have a recess cutout on one side where the O-ring sits. Really easy, but I'd like to set up a tri-clamp system in the future.

 

[Bsquared]

 

[Bsquared]

Doing my third brew today, think I have a much better idea of the system, I was shooting for 1.047 at 70%eff got 1.055 with 86%. So I'll adjust recipies in the future. Got all the volumes on the sight glasses calibrated, and temp probes. Mashed in at 10:45 boiling at 1:10, should be rapped up at 3:00-3:30. Awesome. I love this system.

Thanks to everyone on the e-board again!

 

[cyberbackpacker]

How far out from the kettle wall does the float switch protrude?

 

[Bsquared]

How far out from the kettle wall does the float switch protrude?

This is the Float switch i bought, It took about a week to get here.

It is 1-3/4" from the wall to the center, and the float extends 1/4" form the center so 2".

It comes with a thick 3/8" silicon flat washer, so all I did was drill a 3/8" hole and tighten down the locking nut. I have had no problems with leaks on these and I have two of them operating one in the HLT and one in the BK. they interrupt the signal from the BCS to the SSR.

 

[EarthBound]

Your brewery is amazing. Excellent work, man.

I plan on installing the same float switch for the same reason.

 

[Bsquared]

Thanks earthbound, I'm planing on adding a couple things to it in the coming weeks/months.

#1 whirlpool pump and inlet for the kettle, and a SS IC for the kettle. I have this idea to do whirlpool hop additions and use the Immersion chiller to knock down the wort temps in steps during the whirlpool step to better mimic how the big boys do Whirlpool hop additions with separate whirlpool tanks.

#2 replace my hop back with a hop rocket

#3 New stand, or cut my stand down about 2 feet.

#4 replace the HLT with a 20-25 gallon one.

 

[PLOVE]

Bsquared -

What's your typical brewday look like? How automated is your system? I have a similar all-electric setup with two pumps, 5500W elements in my HLT and BK, QD hoses, HERMS, and a BCS460 to run everything. Finally figuring out how get my system purring. Just curious how you've integrated your BCS into your brew day.

Nice system!

 

[blakeseven]

I would like the hear this as well just finishing my panel now and and starting to think about programming my brew day with the bcs-460.
Thanks

 

[Bsquared]

PLOVE-

To be honest, I've only been able to squeeze in about 8 batches on it so far, but typically I am in the 4-5hr range . I will usually fill the HLT and start it heating, then get things set up for the brew day.

I have set up a Strike water program, and a mashing program, but for right now I still monitor the dough-in, sparging process, and the boil in manual mode. Eventually I will like to have one program, where I will need to only re-position the valves and okay the system to advance to the next step, but that will be in a while. I built a shed out back at my house, so I can clear out the garage and have it exclusively for a brew space, and I think getting things more organized will speed things up a lot.

Im probably going to reduce my Mash saccrification rest down from 45min to 20min. but that is not that much time off the brewday, but I feel I can get it down into the 3.5-4.5hr brewday range.

 

[Beeskneesbrew]

Is be interested on how you have integrated the bcs as well. Possibly what your programing looks like?

 

[Bsquared]

I'll see what I can post when I get home, I'm not too computer savvy, but I think a screen shot of the programing page might be helpful to explain the programing. Also Id like to see what others are using. Might be a good topic for a new thread.

 

[ccrum]

I have a program I set up on the laptop for the BCS, then use my BrewMate Android app to monitor and control the process. I have a wireless unit attached to the BCS that can operate as an AP or as a client bridge depending on where I am brewing. If I am at home, I link everything to my wireless network. Having the andorid app lets me do other things around the house and still keep track of temps and processes. My system is COMPLETELY automated with solenoid valves redirecting flow at the right times and such, so I have no valves to switch manually. I could brew "remotely" if I wanted to minus filling the water, doughing in, and adding hops. If I'm brewing at a competition or something, I put the unit in AP mode and link directly to it. My brew day is about 4-5 hours depending on time of year (takes longer to chill in the summer here in TX).

 

[PLOVE]

My system is COMPLETELY automated with solenoid valves redirecting flow at the right times and such, so I have no valves to switch manually.

Sounds awesome. I assume you're hard plumbed then? How well do the automated valves work for you? I've found that with my system I really have to feather them on the pump output side to get the flow just right when I'm recirculating through the HERMS or fly sparging. Can you set your valves to an intermediate flow rate?

PLOVE

 

[Bsquared]

I know, for some people thats what they brew in a month.I've been able to get 30 done in about a year, Im trying to brew twice a month now that my son is getting older (two on the 17th) its a little easier to sneak away for a few hrs. So far Iv only had one hicup that was not self induced. I lost my #2 SSR I think it might just be a loose wire, but I have not been able to track it down. I'm most likely going to rebuild the panel some time this summer, and upgrade to the BCS460, so I can use it to control the fermenters too.

This weekend Im home alone so I brewed Saturday and sunday. here are some pictures.

 

[theknub]

great work and nice rig

 

[Bsquared]

Did a little Upgrayedd ( the two D's for a double dose of pimp'n)...

Not too much, but I moved the eStop, added a Buzzer and an override switch so both 220 outlets can be live at once. This will be to power my BIAB/Rims kettle that I'm almost done building. The RIMS tube has a 2500W 220VAC ULWD element in it and the kettle is a 5500W fold back.

I'm Looking to do some 5 gallon BIAB batches at night, so I figure I can cut a couple hours off my brew session doing the BIAB, vs running the full three kettle set up. Hoping to get my first batch brewed next weekend with the new set up. :rockin:

 

[Bsquared]

Fired it up tonight to test out the wireless connectivity with the BCS and test out all the switches light up the right indicators, and tested the buzzer. All worked fine, now for a wet test this weekend where i will clean and re-passivate the kettles . Then Its back to brewing.

Also Id like to thank PJ once again for the e-Stop design, I accidentally had the E-stop in the engaged position when I first plugged in the control panel, and tripped my GFCI twice before I figured out it was the E-stop. rest it and it all worked fine!