12x12x6 BCS-460 Control panel is a tight fit

[Bsquared]

How easy is that Microsoft MN-740 to hook up? They are some for fairly cheap on eBay right now. I have a router, but am thinking of installing new firmware so I can use it as a bridge. But I might just end up bricking it.

 

[Brew52]

It's looking good. I like the E-Stop. I'm still waiting for my 30A flanged inlet to arrive so I can finish cutting my holes into the bottom. I have a 12x14x6 box so I'm sure that I will feel your pain when I finally get to the wiring job. My control panel will be mounted directly to my brew stand so I plan to use "Liquid Tight" connectors and conduit from Lowe's/Home Cheapo for all of my outgoing wires: pumps, heat elements, RTD probes, etc.

 

[clearwaterbrewer]

How easy is that Microsoft MN-740 to hook up? They are some for fairly cheap on eBay right now. I have a router, but am thinking of installing new firmware so I can use it as a bridge. But I might just end up bricking it.

Not too bad, not plug and play, but then again, nothing will auto-detect your SSID.., not sure if you *have to* have an xbox, but that is the easiest way to set the SSID.. FYI - only does WEP unless you do the one-way, no turning back 'upgrade firmware to the D-Link version'

I mainly went to to it for the form factor and price..

 

[clearwaterbrewer]

It's looking good. I like the E-Stop. I'm still waiting for my 30A flanged inlet to arrive so I can finish cutting my holes into the bottom. I have a 12x14x6 box so I'm sure that I will feel your pain when I finally get to the wiring job. My control panel will be mounted directly to my brew stand so I plan to use "Liquid Tight" connectors and conduit from Lowe's/Home Cheapo for all of my outgoing wires: pumps, heat elements, RTD probes, etc.

I mounted my flanged inlet a couple inches from the side of the box, then cursed myself a few weeks later for not having room for a 3rd L6-20R receptacle.. when I re-did the panel, I cut the new, overlapping hole, and welded the half-moon piece back in the old hole, then ground down and painted with grey primer... measure 3x and cut once ;-)


you won't have that problem with hard wired connections and liquitite, I wanted to be able to have this mobile..

 

[eclipseti3]

I just got a job at an electrical distrubutor, and wanting one of these panels is driving me crazy. Im steady searching for goodies to add to my setup. Clearwater, if you could send me a bill of material for your panel setup from main power to outlets you'd be doing me a huge favor. I recognize all the part for what they are, but spec'd items would be sweet.

 

[clearwaterbrewer]

If you want a exact list of someone's panel, go to Kal's site http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/control-panel-part-1?page=2


I see no reason to duplicate the huge effort he went through in creating that extensive list.. (that and I am afraid to see what I have in my setup)

I will say that I used cords with 14-50P on the end that plugs into the wall and CS6364 on the other end ($$$$$$ - I got 2 20' cables with both connectors for less than 1 CS6364 at costs at grainger) and panel inlet is CS6375

I used L6-20R for my elements, (I have 4500W elements, some may whine I am too close to 20A or may go over 20A with a 5500W or the 6.5KW spa heater element, but works fine for ME).. complete cords with 12GA wire (again, 12GA works fine for ME) can be had on ebay *cheap* search: L6-20 12AWG

I used regular duplex(5-15) for my pumps, but will switch to duplex locking soon( L5-15 ).

 

[jusware]

+1 to the post above. I used the same twist locs that Kal used. Instead of cutting off the plugs on my pumps I made a "converter cable" with regular plugs on one end and twist lock L5-15 on the other. Kinda defys the point of having twist locks, but I keep the "regular cable junction" secured. That way I can make my pumps portable and use them on others system. My box was 20x20x8 and I had problems getting all the connectors on it and everything inside. My design was similar to Kal's except I've got a RIMs with 3 elements, 2 pumps, 1 aux 120v and 3 Temp Probes. I'm using a BCS460 instead of PIDs. I also added internal breakers to my box and used modular 50amp power blocks. I got all my enclosure recepticles off ebay for cheap. I basically got a buy 1 get 2 free deal.

 

[Bsquared]

I was able to source all my twist locks from one source, Fruitridge supply on ebay they had really good prices,and that saved me on shipping. All my components and lights came for the most part from a local source Willy's electronics.

I got the last finishing touches installed this weekend, moved the Junction box that powers the BCS and router. Installed the through panel Ethernet connection and a 12VDC plug for the router that will sit outside the control panel. I'm going to go through the connections one more time, and make sure there are no loose connections or shorts. then Ill power it up. hopefully I'l get to do a wet run next weekend, and a brew thanksgiving weekend.

 

[clearwaterbrewer]

Here is my completed 16x14 panel starting a brew session..

I had to take the mounting ears off the BCS and hold it in with 2 1"x4" strips of velcro it was that tight.. brew session of a Hefeweizen went perfect...

 

[jusware]

Bsquared, where did you get the ethernet pass through? Looks similar to the one I got at Tycoelectronics. I'm looking for a new one, mine broke after 3 months of use.

 

[Bsquared]

I found it on ebay It was 12 with shipping, the guy has a few of them too, and gets it shipped fast.

 

[clearwaterbrewer]

Curious, are you using regular RJ cables or do you have the locking barrel connectors such as a NE8MC-1-B that go over a cable? I was thinking these would be good for temp probe connections to the panel...

 

[Bsquared]

Curious, are you using regular RJ cables or do you have the locking barrel connectors such as a NE8MC-1-B that go over a cable? I was thinking these would be good for temp probe connections to the panel...

For the BCS I'm using a standard RJ45 cable, for my temp probes I'm using RCA connectors. I like the look of those locking barrel connectors, I was wondering why there was a locking release on the receptacle, now I know its to house a barrel connector.

I think that would be a great Idea to use these for temp probes, would you connect four probes in to one RJ cable with the 5th position being for the ground? that would be cool then you could have a quick way to switch between controlling the brewery and controlling fermentation chambers...

 

[clearwaterbrewer]

I would probably do pairs of probes per connector...

2 connectors (leaving 4 wires unused each connector) for 4 brew system probes, I find that 4 in one connector gets tangled, 2 is fine..

1 connector for 2 probes and 2 SSR drive outputs in another, which connects to a remote box that has 2 SSR's for 2 fermentation fridges... since this is a long run, I would keep the twisted pairs together...

 

[Bsquared]

I ditched the RCA inputs, I did not like that they where grounding the BCS to the AC common ground.

I installed 3 pin XLR. But tested the probes in Ice and they all read 32... Mounted it on the wall.

 

[Bsquared]

It's hot! Finally got a chance to power it up. I'm waiting on my heat exchange coil to get here from more beer. But I'm going to try a wet trial And see how it runs this week.

 

[Bsquared]

My copper heat exchanger finally got here, and I got it all installed it in HLT. once the Baby goes down for his nap I'll leak test it. one more time before firing it up.

 

[Brew52]

Very nice work! Your Brewery is coming together nicely. I set a realistic date of Father's Day 2012 to have mine done. My wife has agreed to give me our tax return money this year so I can get Two Blichmann Kettles, Two Pumps, and a Blichmann Plate Chiller. In the meantime I will continue with my control panel project. Can't wait to see photos of your first Brew! Merry Christmas to you and your family. Cheers!

 

[cyberbackpacker]

Where did you get the twisted copper for the chiller (or if pre-made, where did you get the chiller)?

 

[Bsquared]

I got it from more beer 5/8"OD 25' Convoluted copper coil.Im useing it as a heat exchanger in the HLT, but my CFC is made from the same material, it is very efficient for knocking down temps. this is what they use in their beer sculptures as a HEX. It came coiled up like you see it in the pictures I just had to bend the inlet and outlet.

I think these guys are the ones more beer get it form but I'm not sure.
Double Wall Condenser Coils
But I do know they source it from and out side vender. They told me this was the reason it was taking so long to ship my order.

It's a bit pricy but I could not source it from any one else. My neighbor is running 50' stainless in a similar system to mine so I'm interested to see if there is much of a performance difference in ramping up temps in the mash.

 

[Brew52]

Here is the RIMS Tube that I designed to use with a 10 gallon Blichmann kettle. I plan to use a 240V LWD heater element and power it at 120V, but I'm not sure where to get one. Can anyone suggest a site for me to get a straight shaft ULWD element that will fit into a 16 inch long tube? Thanks.

 

[Bsquared]

Nice! so you are going to hard plumb your brewery? that will be nice. I bought a cheep pipe bender at Harbor freight, and have been having fun bending Stainless dip tubes and the such.

 

[4xtreme]

Not sure but I picked up a element that fit my heat exchanger that I built . It look a lot like your. I found that element at home depot . Nice job so far . Watch that sainless it grows on you .

 

[Brew52]

Thanks. Yes, my plan is to have my entire brewery "on wheels" in a compact system that will be hard plumbed and CIP. I'm lucky because I'm not converting and exsisting brewery I am starting from scratch. I'm getting all my ideas from brewers like you and the electric brewery, black squirrel, Bobby M from Jersey, Billy D, etc. Thanks for the tip on the tubing bender from Harbor Freight I will certainly need one. I will try to attach a drawing of my plans.

 

[Brew52]

Thank you, but it's too late to warn me about being careful about the stainless (I'm already hooked) and approaching a $2000.00 system by the time it's done.

 

[xsists]

So you will have the option of using either HERMS or RIMS, correct?

 

[mux]

Here is the RIMS Tube that I designed to use with a 10 gallon Blichmann kettle. I plan to use a 240V LWD heater element and power it at 120V, but I'm not sure where to get one. Can anyone suggest a site for me to get a straight shaft ULWD element that will fit into a 16 inch long tube? Thanks.

http://www.homedepot.com/buy/plumbi...eter-electric-water-heater-element-42179.html

 

[Brew52]

Yes, and I have decided to do just a RIMS system that is actually what I call a Hybrid RIMS/BIAB because I do not plan to have a HLT and sparge. I have had very good luck with BIAB beers so the blichmann mash tun with false bottom will hold my grains and the entire water volume needed for the recipe and then after mashing I will open the valve wide and pump into the boil kettle (no sparge).

 

[Brew52]

Thanks for the link to Home Depot. That's exactly what I was looking for. I just ordered two of them for in-store pick up. Thanks again.

 

[mux]

No problem, I'm building my electric keggles with these elements. Good luck!