I recently moved into an apartment that does not allow open flame on the patio so i decided to give electric brewing a shot. I also opted to stick with 120V as to not further complicate the situation.
I installed the 10 gallon version of the Blichman Boil Coil in my 10 gallon kettle. I used an auber EZ Boil and an SSR to control the boil coil. After wrapping the kettle with insulation and the element at 100% power it took roughly an hour to get from 103ºF to boil. However the boil was very weak and was essentially larger bubbles forming at the heating coil. I could still see a steady movement of water vapor from surface of the pot. It would get slightly more vigorous when the cover is mostly on.
Is the best I'm going to get running one element at 120V or is there something i can look at to improve this? It is a 2250W element so its close to maxing out the 20A breaker, so to add another element i think i will need to run it off an additional breaker, but would prefer not to go that route if i dont have to.
I installed the 10 gallon version of the Blichman Boil Coil in my 10 gallon kettle. I used an auber EZ Boil and an SSR to control the boil coil. After wrapping the kettle with insulation and the element at 100% power it took roughly an hour to get from 103ºF to boil. However the boil was very weak and was essentially larger bubbles forming at the heating coil. I could still see a steady movement of water vapor from surface of the pot. It would get slightly more vigorous when the cover is mostly on.
Is the best I'm going to get running one element at 120V or is there something i can look at to improve this? It is a 2250W element so its close to maxing out the 20A breaker, so to add another element i think i will need to run it off an additional breaker, but would prefer not to go that route if i dont have to.
