110v Recirculating eBIAB 2.5 gallon batches

[Justdrumin]

I just read all 54 pages of this thread and I'm amazed by the wealth of knowledge on this thread!! This is so perfect for what I want to do. I want to make something like the original diagram with a single element, but I want to make a few changes. I'd like to opt out the pump for now which I assume I can just take it out of the diagram and wire the rest the same without issues. I'd also like to install a single 5500 watt element and run it at 120v just to prepare for 240v once I buy a house and move out of my apartment. I'll be brewing 5 gallon batches with full volume boils so I'll more than likely be supplementing with a heat stick for now until I move out. My main goal is to only have to make minimal changes to this setup to change to 240v and I only want to buy and install the element once which is why I want to go ahead with a 5500w element. Are there any issues with going this route using the original diagram?

 

[ChocolateMaltyBalls]

Wire an outlet for the pump, that way when you do get one all you have to do is plug it in. Also I'm sure you already know that running a 5500W element at 120V will get you ~1400W. So you'll need a decent sized heat stick to supplement.

 

[Justdrumin]

Wire an outlet for the pump, that way when you do get one all you have to do is plug it in. Also I'm sure you already know that running a 5500W element at 120V will get you ~1400W. So you'll need a decent sized heat stick to supplement.

I considered designing it for a pump and just leave out the pump for now. That sounds like a great idea seein how I'm sure I'll want a pump at some point. Yes, I did know I wouldn't be getting much out of the element. I'll be making a 2000 watt heat stick which I know may not be the best, but I've read it'll do the job. Any thoughts?

Essentially I'll make the whole thing for 240 and just supply the control panel with 120v. Any issues with doing those?

 

[adventurtons]

Amazing thread, worked my way about halfway through it so far.

I was looking to brew 1-2 gallon batches but wouldn't have the liquid necessary with standard pot sizes with the mash bed and recirculation to make sure that the pump had liquid and the heating element was covered.

Does anyone know of a narrower / taller 6 gallon pot with basket, similar to the one originally posted? Also with a narrower pot would standard 1500W stainless heating elements be short enough?

Thanks!

 

[Don204]

Amazing thread, worked my way about halfway through it so far.



I was looking to brew 1-2 gallon batches but wouldn't have the liquid necessary with standard pot sizes with the mash bed and recirculation to make sure that the pump had liquid and the heating element was covered.



Does anyone know of a narrower / taller 6 gallon pot with basket, similar to the one originally posted? Also with a narrower pot would standard 1500W stainless heating elements be short enough?



Thanks!

http://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/141116063173


I have been looking at the 26 quart

 

[Don204]

Check this pot out
http://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/141116063173

 

[adventurtons]

http://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/141116063173


I have been looking at the 26 quart

Thanks! Does the basket on these rest on the bottom or does it rest on a lip typically inside to give clearance to the bottom? Not sure if having it in contact with the heating element would be a good thing.

 

[singybrue]

It's a great pot, but the basket is too tall and won't clear a built-in element. I use this pot with an induction burner.
You would have to go with a false bottom or modify the basket to use a built-in element.

 

[Don204]

I am thinking of ditching the basket for a false bottom. You can make or buy one pretty cheap.
I have a 44qt bayou with the basket and I think it's messing with my recirculation. Just my opinion though

 

[adventurtons]

It's a great pot, but the basket is too tall and won't clear a built-in element. I use this pot with an induction burner.
You would have to go with a false bottom or modify the basket to use a built-in element.

Good info. I have never seen this done before but is it possible to hook up a temperature controller to an induction burner or is it not practical for some reason? This would eliminate the interior element completely and would still get the info from the probe.

 

[singybrue]

Good info. I have never seen this done before but is it possible to hook up a temperature controller to an induction burner or is it not practical for some reason? This would eliminate the interior element completely and would still get the info from the probe.

It's possible, but beyond my abilities.
Here's a link to one https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=518213

I know someone else did it to a Ivantco 3500 as well

 

[TMannion87]

Hi all,

I'm in the middle of this build at the moment, I have all of the large components but I'm still gathering some of the smaller items. I have a question regarding the fuse holder, fuses and resistors. I see that the fuses are 1 amp fast blow, but what is the proper fuse holder to use? I was thinking of going to Radio Shack for these smaller parts, would these work?

http://tinyurl.com/henge9o
http://tinyurl.com/hts4rjp
http://tinyurl.com/j95a46x

Any help would be greatly appreciated as I'm clearly new to all of this. Thanks!

 

[W0rter]

jrb03,

I see that you have been a member here for several years and I'm honored to be able to answer your first post.

I spent a few hours this morning drawing a diagram that should fit your needs.
The entire build should fit in the Auber Instruments Project Box.

I suggest that you also order their External Mount Heat Sink for the SSR.
The RTD temp probe could be the Deluxe version of Liquid Tight RTD Sensor. It is well worth the extra $9 for it.

I'm not sure how you plan on supplying the 12V power to your pump. I show a 120V outlet that can be used to plug in a transformer. (Edit: I did a search on greatbreweh and found their pumps. They ship with a 12V plug in transformer so the diagram is good to go for that as well.)

I hope this is of some help to you.


As always - Click on the image to see a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")



Wishing you the best.

P-J

Could somebody please explain to me the significance of the resistor symbol between screw 4 and 5 on the PID? And what resistor should be used?
I do realize the two red wires from the RTD go to terminals 3 and 4 and the white wire goes to terminal 5 but I don't under stand the resistor symbol.
I'm using the (PT100-L50NPT) RTD

 

[stlbeer]

Could somebody please explain to me the significance of the resistor symbol between screw 4 and 5 on the PID? And what resistor should be used?
I do realize the two red wires from the RTD go to terminals 3 and 4 and the white wire goes to terminal 5 but I don't under stand the resistor symbol.
I'm using the (PT100-L50NPT) RTD

It's the R in RTD ( resistive thermal device). If you use a RTD type probe, the probe is a resistor whose resistance varies with temp.

Hope this helps.

 

[W0rter]

Thanks stlbeer that explains a lot. So the probe itself is the resistor. That makes me wonder if there is need for initial calibration?

 

[stlbeer]

Thanks stlbeer that explains a lot. So the probe itself is the resistor. That makes me wonder if there is need for initial calibration?

It will be close, but it's good practice to calibrate new temp probes. I've had some that were 2-3 degrees off.

 

[W0rter]

I need some insight. I'm building this panel as designed by P-J. I had been in the building process several year ago and never completed it. As I was looking over my parts prior to building I discovered I don't have the SYL-2352 but I have the SYL-2362. I'm wondering if the 2362 will function as I want? I will be using the panel for a RIMS tube 120v with either a 1500w or 2000w element. My panel has provisions for two pumps. It will be built for 20Amp provision for the element. I plan just like the design using a 40Amp SSR and the 120v Packard C230B 2 pole 30 Amp Contactor.

 

[stlbeer]

W0rter,
The 2362 will work fine for your purpose. I started out with one of those too. The 2352 is easier to change parms on since you don't need to enter a passcode.

 

[cdubbaya]

I'm planning on mimicking this build with my 5 gallon stainless pot for 2.5 gallon batches, however I'm powering it with a Hosehead brew controller. The guts of the controller are similar, and I think the Hosehead draws around 1amp (2 SSRs and RPi).

I'm assuming I'll be dangerously close to the 20A breaker with my setup and may need to downsize my heating element:

@120v:
1x 2000W Heating Element = 16.6A
1x 12v Solar Pump = 1A
1x Controller = ~1A

18.6A Total @ 120v

I measured one of my outlets with a multimeter and it was showing 122V, but I don't know about the one I'll be plugging into.

Anything I'm missing or incorrect about in my math above? I'm hoping I don't build this entire system only to realize I can't use a standard household outlet.

 

[homebrew57]

I'm planning on mimicking this build with my 5 gallon stainless pot for 2.5 gallon batches, however I'm powering it with a Hosehead brew controller. The guts of the controller are similar, and I think the Hosehead draws around 1amp (2 SSRs and RPi).

I'm assuming I'll be dangerously close to the 20A breaker with my setup and may need to downsize my heating element:

@120v:
1x 2000W Heating Element = 16.6A
1x 12v Solar Pump = 1A
1x Controller = ~1A

18.6A Total @ 120v

I measured one of my outlets with a multimeter and it was showing 122V, but I don't know about the one I'll be plugging into.

Anything I'm missing or incorrect about in my math above? I'm hoping I don't build this entire system only to realize I can't use a standard household outlet.

You could always just plug the pump into another circuit via extension cord. It wouldn't be controlled by your controller but at least you wouldn't trip your breaker.

 

[cdubbaya]

You could always just plug the pump into another circuit via extension cord. It wouldn't be controlled by your controller but at least you wouldn't trip your breaker.

Yeah I thought about that, however I'm planning on brewing in my garage or even in the back yard during the Summer months, and don't think I have another outlet even remotely close to those that would be on a different circuit. I believe they are all GFI'd on a daisy chain to a bathroom outlet?

Either way, its an option but I'm trying to avoid that if I can.

 

[ChocolateMaltyBalls]

1500w would give you some breathing room, you can always add a little insulation to the kettle if needed

 

[jlongstreet]

I'm planning on mimicking this build with my 5 gallon stainless pot for 2.5 gallon batches, however I'm powering it with a Hosehead brew controller. The guts of the controller are similar, and I think the Hosehead draws around 1amp (2 SSRs and RPi).

I'm assuming I'll be dangerously close to the 20A breaker with my setup and may need to downsize my heating element:

@120v:
1x 2000W Heating Element = 16.6A
1x 12v Solar Pump = 1A
1x Controller = ~1A

18.6A Total @ 120v

I measured one of my outlets with a multimeter and it was showing 122V, but I don't know about the one I'll be plugging into.

Anything I'm missing or incorrect about in my math above? I'm hoping I don't build this entire system only to realize I can't use a standard household outlet.

If I understand correctly, the Hosehead uses a separate circuit to power the elements. i.e. when powering 240V elements, the 240V input only drives the elements themselves. The Pi and pumps are on a separate circuit. For 120V, these could be the same circuit, but they don't have to be.

 

[W0rter]

I need a little help understanding the Alarm Silence Switch. My understanding is that it's a two position maintained switch 1 Normally Open and 1 Normally closed. on PJ's schematic it's switch #4 with terminals numbered 11, 12, 21 and 22. It depicts wire at #22 on the switch from terminal #13 on the PID and #21 on the switch to the buzzer. My two position switch is numbered differently (also from Auberins)
One block on my switch is (1 - NC - 2)
The other Block is (3 - NO - 4)
My question is which terminal on my blocks receives the wire #13 from the PID and which terminal on my switch goes to the Buzzer?
I apologize for the simple question that probably everybody knows.

 

[W0rter]

I think I just found my answers at posts 533 to 538.

 

[W0rter]

Has anyone else run into this?
The whole time I was building this panel I had plans to go to our local electrical company and have someone check over my work. Well I'm getting close to being done so I packed up the panel and drove to Gustwiller Electrical Supply. almost immediately upon looking at the panel he said he wasn't that smart and said he'd pass. I didn't say much, but I wanted too. I've used this business several times in the past. They had no problem taking my money on menial tasks. But on a larger scope, no way. I had intended to inquire as to them rewiring the panel as my wiring is sloppier that I'd like. Or at least checking it over and tweaking the work to clean it up. Well that failed.
So my next question to the forum is, is there someone who could wire up my panel or at least check it over and tweak anything skeptical. If finding someone to check/fix/repair my panel fails. I'd like to itemize my skeptical maladies and receive direction.
My items of concern are on several places I used 22ga wire.
Thanks for any suggestions you may provide.

 

[iijakii]

Where are you located? Also a diagram and high quality pictures might suffice.

 

[W0rter]

I live in Defiance, OH
Mid way between Toledo, OH and Fort Wayne, IN
When I get out to the shop, I'll get some pics.
Diagram is same as P-J's with the addition of a second pump switch.

 

[W0rter]

Here's some pictures. Let me know if you want anymore, possibly highlighting an area.
I have connected some more of the components today, I'll post completion pictures when i'm done.

 

[joebob296]

What I did was I printed out a new schematic and traced every wire again. And ensured all terminals were tight. I did this until I found 0 mistakes, and when I did find one I corrected it and started over again.