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110v Recirculating eBIAB 2.5 gallon batches

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Has anyone added a timer to the original wiring diagram? Seems like it would be nice to have.
 
That would be great P-J; Post #2, original diagram.

Thanks,

Ben
I've added the Auber Instruments Timer JSL-71A to the diagram. I hope that is the one you were looking to incorporate in your build.
And - as always - Click on the image to see (and save) a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")




Wishing you the best.

P-J
 
I've added the Auber Instruments Timer JSL-71A to the diagram. I hope that is the one you were looking to incorporate in your build.
And - as always - Click on the image to see (and save) a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")




Wishing you the best.

P-J

Perfect! I really appreciate that P-J. Appears the timer won't go as deep into the box as the PID so I might be able to cram all that into the box referenced in this build without having to step up to a larger box.
 
Perfect! I really appreciate that P-J. Appears the timer won't go as deep into the box as the PID so I might be able to cram all that into the box referenced in this build without having to step up to a larger box.
Ben,

It pleases me that I'm able to help you in your desired mission. It also provides some mind jumps for this seriously old man. (It is what keeps me alive...)

You are more than welcome.

Edit: BTW - I just changed the voltage label on the SYL-2352 pid. It was 120V but now it is a different input voltage. (85 - 260 VAC) I was still basing the diagram on the product that was offered a few years ago. Anyway - just little stuff that keeps my mind jumping.

P-J
 
I've added the Auber Instruments Timer JSL-71A to the diagram. I hope that is the one you were looking to incorporate in your build.
And - as always - Click on the image to see (and save) a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")




Wishing you the best.

P-J

Easy question (i hope!) In this diagram, if I wanted the buzzer to go off when the timer counted down to zero, would I simply add a wire from location 7 on the timer to location 22 on switch #4? I would I need a seperate buzzer? Thanks
 
Easy question (i hope!) In this diagram, if I wanted the buzzer to go off when the timer counted down to zero, would I simply add a wire from location 7 on the timer to location 22 on switch #4? I would I need a seperate buzzer? Thanks
You can use the same buzzer. You would need to wire terminals 6, 7 & 8 in a similar manner as the wiring on the PID terminals 1, 13 & 14.
 
You can use the same buzzer. You would need to wire terminals 6, 7 & 8 in a similar manner as the wiring on the PID terminals 1, 13 & 14.

I've added the Timer output circuit to the diagram. I hope that is what you were looking for.
And - as always - Click on the image to see (and save) a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")




Wishing you the best.

P-J
 
Even after reading the thread twice, I have a couple of questions regarding a 2 element build.

My shop/garage has a 240 outlet but all of the 120V plugs are on one circuit breaker so I can't use 2 120V plugs. When weather permits I would like to use the system on 240V but when I have to brew indoors I would like to use it on 120V since there's not a 240V outlet but I can get to different plugs on different circuit breakers.

Can I wire the system to use one leg(?) of the 240V to each element so I can brew in my shop (5 gallons) and then also have each element set to have 120V plugged in when I want to brew in the house (2.5 gallons with one plug and 5 gallon with both)? So in effect I would have 3 input plugs. 1 for 240 and 2 for 120V. Not being an electrician I just want to be sure there's not anything really dangerous about this.

If this is impossible or dangerous, please let me know.

Very helpful group on this thread and the builds are awesome!
 
Even after reading the thread twice, I have a couple of questions regarding a 2 element build.

My shop/garage has a 240 outlet but all of the 120V plugs are on one circuit breaker so I can't use 2 120V plugs. When weather permits I would like to use the system on 240V but when I have to brew indoors I would like to use it on 120V since there's not a 240V outlet but I can get to different plugs on different circuit breakers.

Can I wire the system to use one leg(?) of the 240V to each element so I can brew in my shop (5 gallons) and then also have each element set to have 120V plugged in when I want to brew in the house (2.5 gallons with one plug and 5 gallon with both)? So in effect I would have 3 input plugs. 1 for 240 and 2 for 120V. Not being an electrician I just want to be sure there's not anything really dangerous about this.

If this is impossible or dangerous, please let me know.

Very helpful group on this thread and the builds are awesome!
raysmithtx.

There are a lot of things that can be done to achieve what you are wanting to do.

Please tell me more about what you are trying to achieve. I'll put my old brain to work to try and give you a solution. BUT - I need a lot more more info about your desired set up...

P-J
 
P-J
Thank you for the offer to help. I don't know specifically what additional info you need so if the following info is not enough info or the right info, just let me know.

I mostly do 5 gallon batches so I need to typically mash around 8 gallons of water. Right now I'm using propane but want to convert to electric so I can also brew indoors and have more flexibility.

I think the 2 element system to would give me the most flexibility but there are some issues:

The detached shop/garage I do most of my brewing in has a 240V outlet available but all of the shop outlets/plugs are on a single breaker so I can't use a 2 120v element set up because I don't have 2 separate circuit breakers available. The circuit breaker for the shop plugs is a single 15 amp.

On the occasions when I move to brew indoors I can get to 2 outlets in my kitchen that are on different circuit breakers (15 amps each). I figure I can use 2 GFCI extension cords with this set up.

In looking at some of the builds (Thank you for the drawings you have done on this thread, very helpful) it appears I could build a system using 2 120V elements and power each on via a separate cord.

Which brings me to my main question. Would it be possible to build a system that could be powered by 240V when available (in my shop) but also have it possible to power from 2 120V outlets for indoor brewing? I think this would require 3 input plugs (2-120V and 1 240V).

If that's not possible then would it be possible to split the 240V power in my shop into 2 separate 120V outlets and use them to power the 2 elements?

I don't think this is a thread hijack since I am looking to build a system you already were kind enough to design. Thanks again for your offer to assist me.
 
I've had my build running for a few months and have made some EXCELLENT beer. As luck would have it, I found a 10 gallon Blichmann Boilermaker pot for cheap on Craigslist. Too good of a deal to pass up.

This presents an interesting problem. I'm happy with my current setup, though moving to 240v would be easy for me since I already have a dedicated 240v outlet wired in my garage. My question is: what modifications would I need to make to the control box, which I wired exactly to P-J's original schematic, in order to move to a single 4500w or 5500w element system on 240v?

I know I need new 240v plugs and cords in 10g , and need to replace all of the 12G wire with 10G wire in the panel. Anything else I'm missing?

P-J, thank you again for a fantastic design.
 
Yup this is what I needed to find. Back in june I moved from a house with a big garage to brew in so I had a decent set up to a tiny apartment. I am not allowed to use a burner on the patio so I would need to be electric to brew there.it rains a lot here and apparently it gets cold as hell here and people dont really want to be outside in the winter. Also I lost my kegerator so small batches are ideal. Thank you for this I will be trying to build this very soon and thanks to everyone in advance for answering all of the questions I will have when I get started.
 
I've added the Auber Instruments Timer JSL-71A to the diagram. I hope that is the one you were looking to incorporate in your build.
And - as always - Click on the image to see (and save) a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")




Wishing you the best.

P-J


Looking at using this diagram although dual elements. My question is in ordering the switches 5 and 6 that work with the timer. There are two options when ordering either 2 normally open contacts, or one normally open and one normally closed. Which do I need?
thanks!

Thanks again to P-J for all of his hard work!
 
Looking at using this diagram although dual elements. My question is in ordering the switches 5 and 6 that work with the timer. There are two options when ordering either 2 normally open contacts, or one normally open and one normally closed. Which do I need?
thanks!

Thanks again to P-J for all of his hard work!
I would recommend the N/O - N/C switches. That would give you other options later on.

P-J
 
Thanks P-J! You are the man! Could I get a second element added to the drawing? Actually this drawing, just add a second element

 
Thanks P-J! You are the man! Could I get a second element added to the drawing? Actually this drawing, just add a second element


Just add the second element control and power source from this diagram. The setup will use the same contactor with the second power source and second SSR.


As always - Click on the image to see a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")

 
Would this also still be fully functional with only one element plugged in? Obviously only one element would be firing, but would everything else function?
 
Would this also still be fully functional with only one element plugged in? Obviously only one element would be firing, but would everything else function?
No. You would need to source the contactor coil power going though swich 1 from plug 1 instead of plug 2. With that, you would be good to go with only plug 1.
 
No. You would need to source the contactor coil power going though swich 1 from plug 1 instead of plug 2. With that, you would be good to go with only plug 1.

So if I have 2 SSR's (1 for each element) I can run them both off of one switch and one coil? I wouldn't need a switch and coil for each element? I have seen one of your drawing floating around with dual elements that calls for a switch and a coil for each.
 
So if I have 2 SSR's (1 for each element) I can run them both off of one switch and one coil? I wouldn't need a switch and coil for each element? I have seen one of your drawing floating around with dual elements that calls for a switch and a coil for each.

It's however you want to do it. The other diagram you speak of is this one:

As always - Click on the image to see a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")

 
Yep.. that's the one I am planning my build around. So if I want to add the timer and switches into that I would just source off of plug 1 right? That way everything would function if plug 2 were not being used right?

Thanks again P-J.
 
Thanks again P-J, this would not be possible for me if it wasn't for guys like you!

You are more than welcome. It pleases me that so many brewers on this forum have been successful in their adventure. It is the basic reason that I make the diagrams as I believe they are easier to follow than most others displayed.

Just my personal opinion and worth every minute of my time helping others. (Plus it keeps my brain energized doing the mind jumps.)

ROTFLMAO.gif


P-J
 
P-J,
I may be changing my direction on my build, any way I could get a drawing like above (110v dual element, 1 pump , E-stop, key switch, etc) but with a BCS460 instead of a PID? I would like to be able to manually turn on the pump and elements as well. Once again, all of your hard work is greatly appreciated. Also sorry to Hijack the thread guys, Just didn't want to start yet another electrical drawing thread..

You are more than welcome. It pleases me that so many brewers on this forum have been successful in their adventure. It is the basic reason that I make the diagrams as I believe they are easier to follow than most others displayed.

Just my personal opnion and worh every minute of my time helping others. (Plus it keeps my brain energized doing the mind jumps.)

ROTFLMAO.gif


P-J
 
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