110v Recirculating eBIAB 2.5 gallon batches

CornyKegs 728
Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
reviving this thread from the grave. I just got done reading all 53 pages worth of information and am about to dig into my build. One question i had though was in regards to pot size. I originally planned on doing 5 gallon batches, but have been leaning towards starting with smaller batches (2.5-3 gallon) since I'm a noob and I'm really the only beer drinker in the house so I dont need a full 5 gallons worth.

Problem is I purchased a 12-gallon pot pre-drilled for recirculating and now I'm concerned the pot might be too big for small batches with the small amount of wort. I would need to keep the grains pretty low in the pot which would make it closer to the heating element.

I know I will have to adjust my final mash due to the large surface area at boil off, but will there be any other issues I might run into? A little background information is that I am planning on using the single element setup and using the stove to help boost boil.

Thanks in advance, and thanks to PJ and everyone else in the thread for the great information
 
I'm upgrading my setup I built based off this thread a few years back and just wanted to toss these pics out of the brewerhardware element enclosure I just purchased and set up. I was originally running the rubber gasket or whatever jrb setup and think this looks a lot nicer. Not bad for $20 :mug:

20150612_194051.jpg

20150612_194802.jpg

20150612_202644.jpg

20150612_235302.jpg
 
jrb03,

First of all, great thread and great build. My question comes from the parts list that you posted, which includes capacitors. When looking at P-J's drawing, I did not notice capacitors, only fuses and resistors. I am wondering if capacitors were used/if they are necessary for this build?

Thank you!
 
mms05j said:
jrb03,



First of all, great thread and great build. My question comes from the parts list that you posted, which includes capacitors. When looking at P-J's drawing, I did not notice capacitors, only fuses and resistors. I am wondering if capacitors were used/if they are necessary for this build?



Thank you!
Click to expand...


I didn't use any capacitors for my build, only 1or 2 fuses.
 
I've got pretty much everything I need to start this build, but trying to decide where to mount the element-back or sides of the pot.
I will be using the Brew Hardware enclosure with the silver-soldered Tri-Clamp fitting for the 2000w SS element.
I'm leaning towards the back, just for a little cleaner look.
Question for all-Where did you put it and why? Any regrets?
 
I'd vote back for the cleaner look as well, but it really doesn't matter one way or the other. If you have other pots or something you set close to it that's one thing to consider as well.
 
singybrue said:
I've got pretty much everything I need to start this build, but trying to decide where to mount the element-back or sides of the pot.
I will be using the Brew Hardware enclosure with the silver-soldered Tri-Clamp fitting for the 2000w SS element.
I'm leaning towards the back, just for a little cleaner look.
Question for all-Where did you put it and why? Any regrets?
Click to expand...

Setting it 90 degrees from your valve will allow for a hop screen if that is in your future
 
Finally wiring up my panel, and have a couple of dumb questions.
The alarm switch should be wired at the NC blocks 1 & 2 and the E-stop switch wired at the NO blocks 3 & 4, right. Any issue removing the unused blocks on the switches to to make a little more room in a tight panel? I'm using the Auber switches specified in the diagram.
Also, should the E-stop be wired with 12g wire?
Thanks!
 
singybrue said:
Finally wiring up my panel, and have a couple of dumb questions.
The alarm switch should be wired at the NC blocks 1 & 2 and the E-stop switch wired at the NO blocks 3 & 4, right. Any issue removing the unused blocks on the switches to to make a little more room in a tight panel? I'm using the Auber switches specified in the diagram.
Also, should the E-stop be wired with 12g wire?
Thanks!
Click to expand...


Depends on your schematic. Are you using g PJ'S diagram?
 
joebob296 said:
Then yes, the E-stop gets wired to the NO contacts. And there is nothing wrong with removing unused terminal blocks.
Click to expand...

and the alarm switch is wired normally closed, right? Because you are opening the connection to turn off the alarm if my thinking is correct.
 
Wow, it bring a smile to my face to see this thread is still alive, and a few people are still building these! Unfortunately life has thrown me some curveballs and I am no longer able to home brew. Thinking back to building and brewing on this rig.....those were some fun days.

Thanks again to PJ for the plans, and still helping people years later! I wish I was still brewing and could hang around and help, but thanks to those of you sticking around and helping :). This is the first time I have logged in years, I apologize to those who asked questions and sent PMs. There are good people here who can help.

i hope those who built this rig are still using and enjoying. Cheers.
 
I am going to revamp my setup and get back into brewing I built this setup a while ago and it slowly got stripped for parts.

I'm going to rebuild it because it was one of the best systems I have ever used!!! And thanks Jrb for designing a awesome system
 
I just read all 54 pages of this thread and I'm amazed by the wealth of knowledge on this thread!! This is so perfect for what I want to do. I want to make something like the original diagram with a single element, but I want to make a few changes. I'd like to opt out the pump for now which I assume I can just take it out of the diagram and wire the rest the same without issues. I'd also like to install a single 5500 watt element and run it at 120v just to prepare for 240v once I buy a house and move out of my apartment. I'll be brewing 5 gallon batches with full volume boils so I'll more than likely be supplementing with a heat stick for now until I move out. My main goal is to only have to make minimal changes to this setup to change to 240v and I only want to buy and install the element once which is why I want to go ahead with a 5500w element. Are there any issues with going this route using the original diagram?
 
Wire an outlet for the pump, that way when you do get one all you have to do is plug it in. Also I'm sure you already know that running a 5500W element at 120V will get you ~1400W. So you'll need a decent sized heat stick to supplement.
 
ChocolateMaltyBalls said:
Wire an outlet for the pump, that way when you do get one all you have to do is plug it in. Also I'm sure you already know that running a 5500W element at 120V will get you ~1400W. So you'll need a decent sized heat stick to supplement.
Click to expand...

I considered designing it for a pump and just leave out the pump for now. That sounds like a great idea seein how I'm sure I'll want a pump at some point. Yes, I did know I wouldn't be getting much out of the element. I'll be making a 2000 watt heat stick which I know may not be the best, but I've read it'll do the job. Any thoughts?

Essentially I'll make the whole thing for 240 and just supply the control panel with 120v. Any issues with doing those?
 
Amazing thread, worked my way about halfway through it so far.

I was looking to brew 1-2 gallon batches but wouldn't have the liquid necessary with standard pot sizes with the mash bed and recirculation to make sure that the pump had liquid and the heating element was covered.

Does anyone know of a narrower / taller 6 gallon pot with basket, similar to the one originally posted? Also with a narrower pot would standard 1500W stainless heating elements be short enough?

Thanks!
 
adventurtons said:
Amazing thread, worked my way about halfway through it so far.



I was looking to brew 1-2 gallon batches but wouldn't have the liquid necessary with standard pot sizes with the mash bed and recirculation to make sure that the pump had liquid and the heating element was covered.



Does anyone know of a narrower / taller 6 gallon pot with basket, similar to the one originally posted? Also with a narrower pot would standard 1500W stainless heating elements be short enough?



Thanks!
Click to expand...


http://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/141116063173


I have been looking at the 26 quart
 
It's a great pot, but the basket is too tall and won't clear a built-in element. I use this pot with an induction burner.
You would have to go with a false bottom or modify the basket to use a built-in element.
 
I am thinking of ditching the basket for a false bottom. You can make or buy one pretty cheap.
I have a 44qt bayou with the basket and I think it's messing with my recirculation. Just my opinion though
 
singybrue said:
It's a great pot, but the basket is too tall and won't clear a built-in element. I use this pot with an induction burner.
You would have to go with a false bottom or modify the basket to use a built-in element.
Click to expand...

Good info. I have never seen this done before but is it possible to hook up a temperature controller to an induction burner or is it not practical for some reason? This would eliminate the interior element completely and would still get the info from the probe.
 
adventurtons said:
Good info. I have never seen this done before but is it possible to hook up a temperature controller to an induction burner or is it not practical for some reason? This would eliminate the interior element completely and would still get the info from the probe.
Click to expand...


It's possible, but beyond my abilities.
Here's a link to one https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=518213

I know someone else did it to a Ivantco 3500 as well
 
Hi all,

I'm in the middle of this build at the moment, I have all of the large components but I'm still gathering some of the smaller items. I have a question regarding the fuse holder, fuses and resistors. I see that the fuses are 1 amp fast blow, but what is the proper fuse holder to use? I was thinking of going to Radio Shack for these smaller parts, would these work?

http://tinyurl.com/henge9o
http://tinyurl.com/hts4rjp
http://tinyurl.com/j95a46x

Any help would be greatly appreciated as I'm clearly new to all of this. Thanks!
 
P-J said:
jrb03,

I see that you have been a member here for several years and I'm honored to be able to answer your first post.

I spent a few hours this morning drawing a diagram that should fit your needs.
The entire build should fit in the Auber Instruments Project Box.

I suggest that you also order their External Mount Heat Sink for the SSR.
The RTD temp probe could be the Deluxe version of Liquid Tight RTD Sensor. It is well worth the extra $9 for it.

I'm not sure how you plan on supplying the 12V power to your pump. I show a 120V outlet that can be used to plug in a transformer. (Edit: I did a search on greatbreweh and found their pumps. They ship with a 12V plug in transformer so the diagram is good to go for that as well.)

I hope this is of some help to you.


As always - Click on the image to see a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")



Wishing you the best.

P-J
Click to expand...

Could somebody please explain to me the significance of the resistor symbol between screw 4 and 5 on the PID? And what resistor should be used?
I do realize the two red wires from the RTD go to terminals 3 and 4 and the white wire goes to terminal 5 but I don't under stand the resistor symbol.
I'm using the (PT100-L50NPT) RTD
 
W0rter said:
Could somebody please explain to me the significance of the resistor symbol between screw 4 and 5 on the PID? And what resistor should be used?
I do realize the two red wires from the RTD go to terminals 3 and 4 and the white wire goes to terminal 5 but I don't under stand the resistor symbol.
I'm using the (PT100-L50NPT) RTD
Click to expand...


It's the R in RTD ( resistive thermal device). If you use a RTD type probe, the probe is a resistor whose resistance varies with temp.

Hope this helps.
 
Thanks stlbeer that explains a lot. So the probe itself is the resistor. That makes me wonder if there is need for initial calibration?
 
W0rter said:
Thanks stlbeer that explains a lot. So the probe itself is the resistor. That makes me wonder if there is need for initial calibration?
Click to expand...

It will be close, but it's good practice to calibrate new temp probes. I've had some that were 2-3 degrees off.
 
I need some insight. I'm building this panel as designed by P-J. I had been in the building process several year ago and never completed it. As I was looking over my parts prior to building I discovered I don't have the SYL-2352 but I have the SYL-2362. I'm wondering if the 2362 will function as I want? I will be using the panel for a RIMS tube 120v with either a 1500w or 2000w element. My panel has provisions for two pumps. It will be built for 20Amp provision for the element. I plan just like the design using a 40Amp SSR and the 120v Packard C230B 2 pole 30 Amp Contactor.
 
W0rter,
The 2362 will work fine for your purpose. I started out with one of those too. The 2352 is easier to change parms on since you don't need to enter a passcode.
 
I'm planning on mimicking this build with my 5 gallon stainless pot for 2.5 gallon batches, however I'm powering it with a Hosehead brew controller. The guts of the controller are similar, and I think the Hosehead draws around 1amp (2 SSRs and RPi).

I'm assuming I'll be dangerously close to the 20A breaker with my setup and may need to downsize my heating element:

@120v:
1x 2000W Heating Element = 16.6A
1x 12v Solar Pump = 1A
1x Controller = ~1A

18.6A Total @ 120v

I measured one of my outlets with a multimeter and it was showing 122V, but I don't know about the one I'll be plugging into.

Anything I'm missing or incorrect about in my math above? I'm hoping I don't build this entire system only to realize I can't use a standard household outlet.
 
cdubbaya said:
I'm planning on mimicking this build with my 5 gallon stainless pot for 2.5 gallon batches, however I'm powering it with a Hosehead brew controller. The guts of the controller are similar, and I think the Hosehead draws around 1amp (2 SSRs and RPi).

I'm assuming I'll be dangerously close to the 20A breaker with my setup and may need to downsize my heating element:

@120v:
1x 2000W Heating Element = 16.6A
1x 12v Solar Pump = 1A
1x Controller = ~1A

18.6A Total @ 120v

I measured one of my outlets with a multimeter and it was showing 122V, but I don't know about the one I'll be plugging into.

Anything I'm missing or incorrect about in my math above? I'm hoping I don't build this entire system only to realize I can't use a standard household outlet.
Click to expand...

You could always just plug the pump into another circuit via extension cord. It wouldn't be controlled by your controller but at least you wouldn't trip your breaker.
 

Similar threads

B
eBIAB PID Controller Wiring Diagram - Feedback Requested
Replies
14
Views
1K
beerisambrosia
B
kotamoore23
120/240v DIY PID Controller Help
Replies
17
Views
1K
whoaru99
W
thebeers54
Sold 12 gallon system + kegerator and more - MA
Replies
1
Views
242
thebeers54
thebeers54
S
New to Electric brewing
Replies
14
Views
1K
Exception13
Exception13
L
Building a potentiometer controller
Replies
25
Views
1K
doug293cz
doug293cz

Latest posts

Back
Top