10g Blichmann Boil Coil?

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

matt_m

Supporting Member
HBT Supporter
Joined
Oct 6, 2017
Messages
1,554
Reaction score
798
My BIAB system is a hybrid of an induction plate for heating and boiling and a RIMS tube for maintaining mash temps while recirculating. I use a 10 gallon SS Brewtech kettle and a Jaybird false bottom, mainly to keep from sucking too much hop matter, especially whole-leaf into the pump. Its as complicated as it sounds but it does work well.

I've been considering switching over to the Blichmann Boil Coil and getting rid of both the induction plate and RIMS tube. This would eliminate a lot of complexity, and a lot of tubing that results in wasted wort. My controller will work with the Boil Coil, I'll just have to drill the holes in the kettle for the Boil Coil and temp sensor. Selling the RIMS and induction plate this is probably a net 0 cost change.

My questions:
The Jaybird false bottom won't work for this scenario. Looks like my options are to use hop bags when using whole-leaf hops? I had a big problem with this on a previous brew, even after whirlpool. I ended up taking my Riptide pump apart twice during that brew.

I'm reading that there's no issues with the Boil Coil and bag being in contact since the watt density is so low? I use a Brew Bag if it matters.

Lastly, is the 3750W 240V Boil Coil going to be enough to reasonably boil a 5-6 gallon batch.
 
I can answer one of those.

I boil 6 gallons of wort with 2200 watts, no problem. That 10 gallon boil coil is called a 10 gallon boil coil for a reason.
 
I'm reading that there's no issues with the Boil Coil and bag being in contact since the watt density is so low? I use a Brew Bag if it matters.

Have you checked how long it takes for your starches to convert to sugars? That's the only time where temperature is critical. Once conversion is over it won't matter if the temperature drops. I find that I don't need to add any heat to keep my mash in the correct temperature range until long after the conversion is done. If you don't have to add heat during the mash, it doesn't matter what kind of heating element you have.

We have been brainwashed into thinking that all mashes need to be 60 to 90 minutes to get full conversion. With the fine milling of the grains that BIAB makes possible, that conversion does not take long.
 
Can't fully answer all questions/concerns here ... however I can assure you that 1) the 10gal 240v coil heats quickly and boils in no time. Quicker than my old propane setup (at least for me), and hanging a bag is no problem.
 
The 10gal boilcoil will definitely work for you - it goes from mash to boil in a few minutes in my setup. I use a wilser bag and a brewhardware fb during the mash. For my hops I use a large stainless mesh basket. Works great.
 
Back
Top