1025?

[telecom]

I’m new to brewing. I can’t get my beer down to 1010. This is my 5th batch and I can only achieve 1025. My pre-boil reading is 1060. I’ve used a yeast starter and a stirring machine. I’m using about 7.5 kg of grain for a 20 litre batch. I’ve used both liquid and dried yeast with the same results. In my next batch I’m going to try a double dose of powdered yeast. P.S. the beer tastes great. Any ideas please. Regards Tim

 

[McKnuckle]

Are you using a refractometer to check your post-fermentation gravity, or a hydrometer?

Also, if you pre-boil reading is 1.060, what is your original gravity (OG) - the gravity going into the fermenter? It will be even higher.

7.5 kg is 16.5 lbs, which is a LOT of grain for a 5 gallon recipe. It's likely that you are at your limit as far as yeast attenuation is concerned.

 

[telecom]

A hydrometer which I’ve tested and reads ok. I’m using kegs (not bottling). I’m also using nitrogen mix instead of CO2 to serve the beer.

 

[Elric]

What ratio of your grains are specialty grains and what are your mash temps? Too much lower fermentable grains or too high mash temps are both common items that can cause you to fall short of your predicted final gravity

 

[telecom]

I’m using 4kg maris otter, 2kg American briss, 1/2kg crystal malt, 1/2kg dunkel, 1/2 kg gladfields shepherds delight. My water temperature is 78 degrees which goes down to 72 degrees while the mash is resting for an hour.

 

[telecom]

I’ve never checked my gravity after boil. I’ve only checked my pre-boil which is 1.060

 

[McKnuckle]

What are your pre-boil and post-boil volumes? We can estimate OG if we have those values plus the pre-boil gravity.

Wow, you're mashing way too high. That's 172F down to 161F for the Fahrenheit speakers. Your attenuation issue is due to two things:

1) Much too high mashing temps, which doesn't create enough fermentable sugar
2) High OG, which correspondingly limits how low FG can go

So, it's not your yeast. You need to mash between 62-71C, with greater attenuation possible at the lower end of that range. Mash longer the lower the temperature (i.e. 90+ minutes at 62-64).

 

[telecom]

I was thinking of doubling up on the yeast next time and using two packets of dried yeast.

 

[OldDogBrewing]

I was thinking of doubling up on the yeast next time and using two packets of dried yeast.

You can add all the yeast you want, but you have lots of non fermentable sugars by regular sacch strain because they can't eat long chains, change the yeast and settle for the styles they offer, or mash at appropriate temperature and use whatever yeast you want

 

[Elric]

As olddog and mcknuckle have said your issue is definitely with your mash temp. The whole point of a higher mash temp is to leave more unfermentable sugars behind and get a higher final gravity.

 

[Beermeister32]

I agree with above, your mash temperature is way too high. For this batch, add 1/2 teaspoon amylase enzyme to the fermentor and see if that brings it down enough points to make it drinkable.

 

[dmtaylor]

And calibrate your mash thermometer in both boiling water (important: correct the temperature for your elevation!) and in ice water (elevation doesn't matter here).

 

[norrismj]

Agree your mash temperature is too high. keep in range of 62-68 deg C. Cut back on your grain bill as you will get better efficiency and ABV. Keep your lower fermentable grains to 10% or so. Good luck

 

[FromZwolle]

you can also use a yeast that is capable of converting long chain dextrins on it's own, such as this diastatic variety:

https://omegayeast.com/yeast/ales/tropical-ipa

 

[telecom]

EPIC BREWING COMPANY

IMPERIAL RED ALE

​

This is the receipt I've been using.
I've been told that the water temperature is too high?
Does anyone see any problems?

• 4 Kg. Maris Otter 2 –row pale malt
• 2 Kg. American Ale Briess USA
• 500 grams Crystal Malt
• 500 grams Dunkel No. 3
• 400 grams Gladfield Malt Shepherds Delight
• 25 grams Roasted Barley
• ½ Teaspoon Irish Moss
• 50 grams Kent Golding Hops
• White Labs WLP001 (California Ale) Yeast

• Mix all crushed grains with 6 gallons (23 litres) of 78c water for 60 minutes.
• Sparge slowly with 78c water to collect approximately 6 gallons of wort.
• Boil for 60 minutes, Add Hops and Irish Moss 30 minutes into boil.
• Rapidly cool wort to 20c. Transfer to fermenter and add Yeast.

 

[Sammy86]

• Mix all crushed grains with 6 gallons (23 litres) of 78c water for 60 minutes.
• Sparge slowly with 78c water to collect approximately 6 gallons of wort.

Your mashing temp is WAY too high...your sparge water temp and mash temp should not be the same.
As was said above you need to be mashing lower at 65° C then sparge at 78° C.

 

[norrismj]

You are getting closer. I still thing mash water temperature of 78C is too high with your grain bill. High temperatures will destroy all your enzymes. After you pour in your grain you need to have a temperature between 65-68C . I think, based on my experience, a strike water temperature of 72-74C would give you a mash temperature of 65-68C assuming your malt was at room temperature. Then spare at 76C or so. No need to ever go to 78C.

 

[McKnuckle]

To clarify the recipe a bit... It's saying that the strike water should be 78C. When mixed with 7.425 kg grain at 18C, it would yield a mash temp of about 71C or 160F. That is a valid mash temp but on the very upper end of the range.

However, OP landed a bit higher at 72C or 161.6F. It's just too high. It sounds like the recipe author intends the mash to be full on alpha amylase, which is valid. But there's no margin for error, and @telecom overshot the temp and/or had grain that was warmer than 18C.

Lots of blah blah here, but again, you mashed too high to achieve the final gravity you want. It's that simple. Use this calculator to determine a lower strike water temp for the next time.