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Not as much as DME, but yes.

Just lift it off the burner until the foam subsides then put it back on the heat. You might need to do this seven or so times.
 
Yes the boil both sanitizes and mixes with the water. The will be a hot break. You could probably add water to LME and make beer but I doubt if it would be very good. I am still a beginner maybe someone with more brews under there belt will comment if I am steering you wrong.
 
Hopped LME or unhopped? If it is unhopped you need to boil with hops to develop the bittering. Hopped LME might not mix well without the water being heated but it should be OK.
 
Is this a partial boil? If yes, then about 1lb extract per gallon of water is normal. Especially with plain (unhopped) extract. Hopped extract should be added to boiled water off the heat to keep it from burning on the bottom. not to mention, boiling pre-hopped extract messes up the hop profile designed into it.
Unhopped extract, especially LME, should have the amounts I described earlier added for the boil To do bittering, flavor & aroma hop additions. The remaining extract can be safely added @ flame out. This reduces maillard reactions that cause darker color & what many call extract twang. And since the wort is still boiling hot with pasteurization happening in seconds @ 160F, Bob's your uncle.
 
Long story short, plain (unhopped) LME, yes you have to boil it to do bittering & flavor hop additions. Pre-hopped, no. Just dissolve it in boiled water off the heat.
 
If you boil the extract there will be Mailard reactions which darken the beer and make it taste more malty. Some people prefer this, others call it the extract twang. You certainly don't have to boil it.

To bitter the beer you can boil the hops in a sauce pan with water, or use a pressure cooker for 11 minutes to get the same results you would with a 60 minute open boil.

Details here:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/bittering-hops-in-15-minutes.html
 
Or you can do it the easy way & just use 2-3 pounds of extract in a partial boil for all hop additions. Then add the remaining extract at flame out. this minimalizes maillard reactions. Keeps the beer lighter color & cleaner flavor.
 
But with extract only wouldn't the beer be very thin - no dextrins?

Malt extract is made the same ways as wort. The difference is that it goes to an evaporator instead of a fermentor, so the sugar composition is very similar to what an all grain brewer would produce.

Briess Amber is 19% dextrins.
http://www.brewingwithbriess.com/Assets/PDFs/Briess_PISB_CBWSparklingAmberDME.pdf

Extracts are made with specialty grains to match common styles:
http://www.brewingwithbriess.com/Products/Extracts.htm#PilsenLight
 
Malt extract is made the same ways as wort. The difference is that it goes to an evaporator instead of a fermentor, so the sugar composition is very similar to what an all grain brewer would produce.

Briess Amber is 19% dextrins.
http://www.brewingwithbriess.com/Assets/PDFs/Briess_PISB_CBWSparklingAmberDME.pdf

Extracts are made with specialty grains to match common styles:
http://www.brewingwithbriess.com/Products/Extracts.htm#PilsenLight

Mahalo Woodland, good info, bookmarked this.
 
Ok after 26 days in the fermenter my FG seems to be at 1.020. BeerSmith pinned it at 1.019 so I guess its done. Question is I tasted the sample and it had a taste like cider. Ideas?
 
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