10 gallon rubbermade mash tun???

[hydrasports]

OK so I just made my 10 gallon "Home depot" type rubbermade mash tun set up using a 12" false bottom. The only thing I don't like it in order to clean it you have to take it totally apart to get the false bottom out? What's the deal with that, that seems to make it more of a pain in the ass to clean. Do all of you have is disassemble the ball valve and remove it so that you can remove the 12" false bottom to clean it?

What if I go buy a 9" false bottom will I then be able to remove that without having to remove the ball valve assembly in order to clean???

As always any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[HeyNoPie]

I use the same setup with a 12" false bottom. I have the false bottom connected to a barb at the valve using 3/8" silicone. The silicone slides off easily when I want it to but doesn't when I dont

 

[JaimeTheLimey]

x2 for HetNoPie's response.
How is the outlet of your false bottom attached to the inlet on the back of the ball valve?

 

[Rahahb]

+3

I have the same setup (rubbermaid + 12" fb). Just loosen 1 hose clamp at the fitting, and slide the fb out.

 

[hydrasports]

What I am running into is that the the false bottom is just the same size as the bottom of the cooler. With the ball valve sticiking into the cooler and the barb fitting connected to the ball valve it sticks out too far for me to remove the 12" false bottom.I basically have to totally unscrew the ball valve and remove the ball valve in order to remove the false bottom. I was wondering if I switched to a 9" false bottom woudl i then be able to remove the false bottom without having to totally remove the ball valve prior to taking the false bottom out of the cooler.

 

[azimmer1]

Mine just slide out with out romving the valve. I just angle it up opposite the valve.

 

[Jklinden]

+1

 

[hydrasports]

The ball valve on my cooler must sit lower in the cooler then because there is not enough room for me to move the 12" false bottom on an angle to remove it. Kind of bums me out becasue what it suppose to make it easier to brew now is not.


Azimmer1, are you sure you have a 12" false bottom and not a 9"?

 

[hydrasports]

The false bottom is attached by using a small silicone hose. it's not the hose that makes me not able to remove the false bottom it's that the ball valve inside the cooler goes in too far with being connected to a hose barb and is long enough where the false bottom can not move to get on an angle to remove. I also can not instal the false bottom without removing the ball valve first then connecting both with the hose.

 

[Coldies]

Its not your ball valve, its the nipple that connects it. How long is your nipple? (Thats the weirdest question I have ever asked someone) Maybe you can get a smaller one???

 

[heckels]

what is your ball valve setup? mine is a 1/2" valve, a threaded coupler, a hex coupler and then the 3/8" nipple. I don't have any problems... I've got the 12" fb from nb.

 

[JaimeTheLimey]

12" false bottom here too. Try pushing down the mesh screen under the barb a bit and sliding the screen out.

 

[HeyNoPie]

I have a barb with female threads connected to the nipple that barely makes it through the cooler wall. It's a little tricky to get the FB in and out but takes maybe 20 secs

 

[hydrasports]

LOL Coldies!!! I guess it depends on the temp I'm in!!! LOL!!!

Actaully, I want to say it's the standard stainless steel 1/2" mpt X 3/8" barb that I bought at Morebeer.com The link is here of what I got for both the ball valve and barb:

http://morebeer.com/view_product/17420/102353/Stainless_-_1_2"_mpt_x_3_8"_Barb

http://morebeer.com/view_product/6042/102318/Weldless_Cooler_Kit_Stainless


and just a peice of say 4 inch high heat temp hose to connect the barb to the false bottom. Nothing out of the ordinary just what morebeer.com offered.

 

[hydrasports]

HeyNoPie, where did you get that type of barb and is it stainless steel? Please post the link!

 

[HeyNoPie]

I have this bulkhead: http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=47&product_id=85

With this barb inside: http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=36_39&product_id=125

The nipple of the bulkhead goes through the cooler wall and on the inside of the cooler, there is the o-ring, washer (soldered to the nipple), and the barb. If you have a coupling (http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=36_39) on the inside, that could be the problem. Replace that with a the barb like I linked.

Make sense?

 

[Coldies]

Thought, undo your set up and first screw on the barbed fitting all the way, really torque that F'er till it wont go anymore. Add your washer and oring and slide it through the cooler. Then use enough washers that you can get a tight fit on the ball valve side. This would basically have the minimal amount of the nipple in the cooler and hopefully eliminate you having to take it apart. Hopefully this helps

 

[hydrasports]

HeyNoPie, would it be possible to take a pic of your set up? Is your bulkhead on the outside of the cooler? Maybe I am just setting it up wrong.

Outside cooler I have the ball valve with 2 washers; through the wall of the cooler with a threaded nipple; then once in the cooler I use a full coupler then the barb. I think the full coupler is the big problem because it just seems long. I could send photos but what I need I think is perhaps a little longer threaded nipple say a Stainless Nipple - 1/2" x 1.5'' Threaded, remove the coupler and find a female Stainless- 1/2" FPT x 3/8" Barb.

I checked out the barb you used HeyNoPie but it is a 1/2" and I will need a 3/8". Anywhere sell this is stainless?

 

[HeyNoPie]

I'll try to get you a picture tomorrow, but I really think the coupler is the problem. I use 3/8" silicone on the 1/2" barb with no problem. Silicone stretches quite well.

 

[hydrasports]

I totally agree with you. I think the coupler is just way too long and with a barb connected to that forget about it. I think I will have to buy a little longer nipple and perhaps go with your 1/2 inch barb idea. I have been looking around but unable to find a 1/2" X 3/8" barb in stainless.

 

[HeyNoPie]

If you can get the coupler on the nipple now, I think your nipple is ok. Don't worry about a 3/8" barb. Just get a 1/2" x 1/2" female pipe thread barb the same as I have. 3/8" silicone will fit over it without much trouble

 

[hydrasports]

Once again... I agree if theres enough room for the couple along with washer it should work with just the new barb. Thanks for the idea I think that will work sweet!!

 

[azimmer1]

Yes i have the 12" from Northern Brewer. The rubbermaid 10 gal is from Lowes.
You said "Ball valve INSIDE the cooler????". Mine is outside. Let me take a picture for you.

 

[azimmer1]

It sounds like your valve assembly inside your cooler might be a bit long. Mine only has the female/female connector, washer, and the barb adapter. The hole in the rubbermaid cooler is likely the same on all of them.

[/IMG]

 

[Bobby_M]

Instead of using a coupling then male thread hose barb, you can get yourself a hose barb with female threads on it negating the coupling.

 

[hydrasports]

YUP! My coupler is too long. I am going to buy a female threaded barb ASAP. That will fix my issue.

 

[BelgianKing]

I have the same setup 10gal Rubbermaid cooler. I had to put 4 o rings on the outside to clear the nipple. So far I havent used a false bottom and havent had a stuck sparge. Maybe ive been lucky but seems to be unnecessary for it. I followed a sticky from this forum to complete it. I do batch sparge by the way.