1.006 final gravity pale ale

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

gstolas

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 4, 2012
Messages
77
Reaction score
7
I brewed a pale ale with about 11 lbs of 2row, 1/4 lb crystal 50, 3/4 lb of dark Munich.

I mashed at 153. Boiled for 60. I did a 45 minute hops stand, chilled to 68 and pitched a properly hydrated safale 05 American dry yeast.

The OG was 1.052 . what I wanted. I aerated my wort with pure oxygen for about a minute to minute and a half. I transfered to a keg to dryhop after about 10 days. The final gravity is 1.006.

Its not a total disaster, tasted fine, I'm just curious why it ended so low (assuming it can't get much lower or at all) . my thermometer was calibrated properly. Hydrometer can be off I suppose, I'll check again with my refractometer even tho that's frowned upon post fermentation.

Any ideas.....id appreciate it.
 
I calibrate it in slush. Quite often. But its still possible.
 
153 isn't super low for a mash temp - pretty middle of the road. However you've got 11 lb of 2 row and only 1 lb of "other" malts, and 3/4 lb of that is Munich which is still pretty fermentable. If I were to brew the same beer you did, starting at 1.052, and pitch US-05, I'd expect to see it finish below 1.010, my guess would be 1.007-1.008. 1.006 is pretty low but not overly crazy, IMO (it's 88% attenuation). I've had US-05 take a barleywine from 1.112 to 1.026.

As long as it tastes good I wouldn't worry. If the body seems too thin and you re-brew this, suggestions might include mashing 2-3 degrees higher yet, using 1/2 lb crystal and 1/2 lb Munich, and/or using S-04 instead (it will often finish a few points higher and drop very clear, very quick...just watch temps with it).
 
In fact, rereading what you posted, other than the mash temp you did everything you could to give that yeast the best possible environment to eat everything possible - rehydrated, pitched a proper amount, aerated with pure O2, and even transferred it to secondary which will often rouse enough yeast to drop it a point or two more. IMO what you did was gave a pack of US-05 the best chance it had to live a long (*hiccup*), full (*hiccup*), healthy (*burp*) life. Be happy for it! :mug:
 
Cool. Thanks man. Like I said I'm not worried. Just curious. I'll check my hydrometers for sure but it didn't give me suspicions when I had a taste.

Cheers
 
Did you do a mash out to preserve you sugar profile? If you didnt and had a long sparge, the mash was longer that you planed, and more sugars were extracted.

Steve
 
I actually had a pale ale get to 1.006 recently. First 140L batch I've done, and then when I wen to get it boiling I had some issues, so I'm sure it sat a long time at not high enough temps (we didn't do a mash out either).
Anyways the batch was for a wedding and the beer was a big hit. It came out a bit more bitter than i wanted, because if the low FG I assume, but it still had some very good malt background to balance it out. I may start trying to get my beers on the dryer side on the next couple to see how it goes.
 
Did you do a mash out to preserve you sugar profile? If you didnt and had a long sparge, the mash was longer that you planed, and more sugars were extracted.

Steve

I did not mash out. Sometimes I do , this time I didn't. Just batch sparge
 
I also wanted to add I have a lower efficiency. So I wouldnt mind mashing just a tad longer before I sparge. you seem to be saying longer mashes are extracting more sugars. I typically don't finish gravity so low. So I'm just trying to pinpoint the cause. With liquid yeast starters I seem to get different results. Not quite sure
 
The way I understand it, longer mashes don't give you more sugar per se, but more fermentable sugar as the complex sugars are continuing to break down. Over-attenuation is a good problem to have, but as Mozart said, if you want more body, the first thing I would do is focus on the mash. I did 20 minute mashes for a time and checked for complete conversion and it looked good, so it doesn't take long to convert the starch to sugar, but rather the effect of the sugar profile you are after. I would suggest batch sparging with water hot enough to get the sparge to 170F or so, then you know you are denaturing most of the enzymes and have time on your side. It will also give you slightly higher efficiency in washing the grains.
 
88% on US-05 with such a fermentable grist isn't unlikely. I wouldn't necessarily expect another batch to do the same, but I don't think anything is wrong.
 
Back
Top