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After confirming with Gavin, I had a Helles from this batch and didn't feel that it was thin or watery at all. I'm not certified, but that wasn't my experience. I actually thought the mouthfeel was awesome and gave feedback to that effect.

Really doesn't seem right, but what do I know?
 
Reading a judging scoresheet can be a lot like reading a post on a web forum. A lot can be lost in this conversation. Our emotions can become involved as we start to guess at what the commenter was really trying to say.
When a judge points out a flaw, the severity of the flaw may be slight, but that does not come across in the description. When the judge said your beer was thin, he may not have ment that it was thin like water. It just had less body than he expected.

Some judges are not going to be true experts for the style, but still give their opinion. Let's face it. When a judge shows up for a competiton, they can't always pick the category they want. They may be in a style they little experience in... or just don't like. But they still have to produce a score sheet for the beer.

And even if the judge is not saying it, the judge is comparing your beer to other beers he has just tasted. When he said that you beer was thin, most likely he had a beer that he liked better that had more body than yours.
You also can't compare scores from one competition to the next. All scores are relative to the beers they just sampled. There is no calibration.

I try to make myself feel better thinking that at the end of the day, the best beers made it to the top of category and took home the medals. The individual scores and score sheets are only there to say why the beer did or didn't get first, second, or third.
 
jason.mundy said:
great points
Click to expand...

I totally agree with you on pretty much every point you make. FWIW the best in show was a Helles and there were some stellar beers in that pooled category. I was earwigging the conversation between one of the judges and the winner who was sitting next to me.

She initially came over to speak with me about the amazing beer as she saw my big glass boot and medal on the table. I quickly pointed her in the right direction to the great brewer sitting to my right. :mug:

I am in no way critisizing the judges or the score. I just wanted to share the feedback as I feel it's relevant to some of my earlier posts illustrating a protein rest, perhaps this is indeed a bad idea as I had been advised and read about.

If I mention the good results it's only right and proper that I should mention the bad too. Is that protein rest the primary cause? I don't know but it's something I will delete from future brews.
 
Gavin C said:
If I mention the good results it's only right and proper that I should mention the bad too. Is that protein rest the primary cause? I don't know but it's something I will delete from future brews.
Click to expand...

Do you have the ability to do side by side batches? Do two brews, one with the protein rest, and one without. Do a comparison @Brulosopher style.
 
pricelessbrewing said:
Do you have the ability to do side by side batches? Do two brews, one with the protein rest, and one without. Do a comparison @Brulosopher style.
Click to expand...

That would not doable with my setup and current equipment. Probably more work than I'd be willing to do anyway; would likely not be an enjoyable undertaking.
 
If you're going to experiment, try something that could help improve your beer, rather than dabble in practices shown to be detrimental like over-modifying your malt with protein rests.

I get why you did that, though. I, too, tried experiments like that long ago when I was learning about this. I had to test the theory and see for myself.
 
May have been a bit hasty in my judgement of my Dunkel. Seems to be much better now after a few more weeks lagering in the kegerator.

Munich Dunkel
thumb_DSC04336_1024.jpg

Having a celebratory lager after a really fun brew morning making a German Pilsner. I used 90% RO water this time. $0.39/gallon at Walmart

Pilsner's Simple Grain bill
(melenoiden for a mock-coction and acid malt for pH adjustment in a full-volume mash).
Grain Bill.png

Water profile
Water Profile.png

Hit my target pH on the nose, huzzah!
pH.jpg

Mash Schedule. (Just an infusion mash, no decoction this time)
MAsh Profile.png

Preboil & OG
Preboil and OG.jpg
 
Gavin C said:
May have been a bit hasty in my judgement of my Dunkel. Seems to be much better now after a few more weeks lagering in the kegerator.

Munich Dunkel
View attachment 314484

Having a celebratory lager after a really fun brew morning making a German Pilsner. I used 90% RO water this time. $0.39/gallon at Walmart

Pilsner's Simple Grain bill
(melenoiden for a mock-coction and acid malt for pH adjustment in a full-volume mash).
View attachment 314492

Water profile
View attachment 314497

Hit my target pH on the nose, huzzah!
View attachment 314494

Mash Schedule. (Just an infusion mash, no decoction this time)
View attachment 314493

Preboil & OG
View attachment 314496
Click to expand...

Superb precision! What final gravity did you reach? What yeast and hops you used in there? Cheers!
 
Finlandbrews said:
Superb precision! What final gravity did you reach? What yeast and hops you used in there? Cheers!
Click to expand...

Thanks T

It was a fun brewday

Was targeting the lower end of the style for FG. Looking for a dry crisp Pils. It's lagering now. I'll probably wait till Christmas to tap it.

OG and FG
OG and FG.001.jpg

Hallertauer and Saaz hops were used.

WLP833 used again as I've used on all my lagers to date. I probably need to mix it up and use a different strain.

I didn't ramp the temperature on this one till after fermentation was complete simply because I was out of town. 2 weeks at 10C (50F), let it rise to about 18C (~65F) and then crashed it to -0.5C (31F) and added gelatin in the usual way to the FV.

Gelatin

attachment.php
 
I've been meaning to brew an IPA for a while now and after getting 5lbs of hops from a fellow member of HBT, I figured I'd have a go at designing and brewing one.

I've been learning a lot from threads and articles discussing IPA recipes and techniques including this great article by @m00ps

I decided to make a single hop IPA with Citra, with a bit of a maltier backbone than an IPA purist might like.

Grain-bill
Grain Bill.png

Water Profile
Water profile Citra.png

The plan is to use 8 ounces of Citra hops including, 2oz in the boil, 3oz as a hop stand, 2 dry-hoppings, (2oz in the FV and 1oz in the keg till it kicks.

Whirlpool and hop spider with a bonus Wilserbrewer hop bag.
whirlpool.jpg

Hopstand temperature ~165°F
hopstand.jpg

I recently got a new bag from @Wilserbrewer . It worked flawlessly, fits the pot like a glove making stirring the mash simpler, stays put with ease and drains rapidly. Can't believe how much better this bag performs than what I've been using up until now. Fantastic product. Thanks Wilser

Perfectly fitted Bag
Wilserbrewer Bag.jpg

Drained & squeezed bag
Squeezed Bag.jpg

OG 1.062OG.jpg

A really fun morning of brewing filled with the smells of Citra hops
 
iijakii said:
Only 8oz, and low sulfate? I must admit I'm disappoint son. More hops better good.
Click to expand...

I am but an IPA wannabe brewer.
I'll write it out a hundred times so I don't forget. "More hops better good".:p

romani-ite-domum.jpg


My knees were a tremble with my sulfate getting into the orange zone after so much lager brewing. I did enjoy my intra-mash nap though, I have to say.
 
As long as you are aware of what you have done and repent, the Great Hop shall forgive and shine his lupulus upon you once more.
 
Gavin C said:
I've been meaning to brew an IPA for a while now and after getting 5lbs of hops from a fellow member of HBT, I figured I'd have a go at designing and brewing one.

I've been learning a lot from threads and articles discussing IPA recipes and techniques including this great article by @m00ps

I decided to make a single hop IPA with Citra, with a bit of a maltier backbone than an IPA purist might like.

Grain-bill
View attachment 321001

Water Profile
View attachment 321006

The plan is to use 8 ounces of Citra hops including, 2oz in the boil, 3oz as a hop stand, 2 dry-hoppings, (2oz in the FV and 1oz in the keg till it kicks.

Whirlpool and hop spider with a bonus Wilserbrewer hop bag.
View attachment 321004

Hopstand temperature ~165°F
View attachment 321002

I recently got a new bag from @Wilserbrewer . It worked flawlessly, fits the pot like a glove making stirring the mash simpler, stays put with ease and drains rapidly. Can't believe how much better this bag performs than what I've been using up until now. Fantastic product. Thanks Wilser

Perfectly fitted Bag
View attachment 321003

Drained & squeezed bag
View attachment 321005

OG 1.062View attachment 321007

A really fun morning of brewing filled with the smells of Citra hops
Click to expand...

What is that hop bag made of? How does your brew bag differ from the "brew in a bag" (the brand) bags? What you mean by FV, fermenter vessel? When do you dry hop and how long do you leave the hops inside and how do you minimize oxygen pick up? Thanks!
 
Finlandbrews said:
What is that hop bag made of? How does your brew bag differ from the "brew in a bag" (the brand) bags?
Click to expand...

I don't know I'm afraid. Some sort of voile material I think.

Finlandbrews said:
What you mean by FV, fermenter vessel?
Click to expand...

Yes. FV: Fermentation Vessel

Finlandbrews said:
When do you dry hop
Click to expand...

After fermentation is complete. I estimate this will be in 10-14 days but it will of course be dictated by data and other objective signs of completed fermentation.

Finlandbrews said:
how long do you leave the hops inside and how do you minimize oxygen pick up? Thanks!
Click to expand...

I will dry-hop for 5 days in the FV at 68F prior to cold crashing and packaging the beer.
<1 minute task.
  • Take cap off carboy
  • Toss in 2oz of pellet hops
  • Replace carboy cap.

When racking to the keg I will place 1 oz of Leaf hops in a bag in the CO2 filled keg. I rack the beer via the liquid out post to minimize O2 exposure. Racking is slower via the dip tube owing to its narrow diameter but it's not a big deal and arguably not needed.

Racking via dip-tuberacking keg.001.jpg
 
whoa, Ive never thougt of using a liquid QD attached to my siphon for a more or less closed transfer. Ive seen the fully closed transfers with that special carboy cap and sanitary blower siphon thing, but I may have to give this a shot
 
m00ps said:
whoa, Ive never thougt of using a liquid QD attached to my siphon for a more or less closed transfer. Ive seen the fully closed transfers with that special carboy cap and sanitary blower siphon thing, but I may have to give this a shot
Click to expand...

I know, right? Thinking same thing here.
 
How do you get the transfer started using a QD? Are you adding pressure to the fermentor to get the siphon started?

Also, where did you get that colander that fits over the kettle? That's what I need.
 
I did this too when I had my kegs. Made for easy transfers.

Added bonus is that it minimizes contact with the air as well, which theoretically should reduce the chance of contamination. Not that big of a deal with kegs as they don't have the risk of exploding if fermentaton re-starts, and since they're stored cold typically any fermentation that does re-start will be rather slow.

I also do the reverse when I ferment in kegs. Attach a line of tubing to the gas post and place it in a blowoff container of starsan. Alternatively you could just cover the end with a cotton ball if you're feeling frisky, very similar to pastuers original swan neck flask experiment
 
pricelessbrewing said:
I did this too when I had my kegs. Made for easy transfers.

Added bonus is that it minimizes contact with the air as well, which theoretically should reduce the chance of contamination. Not that big of a deal with kegs as they don't have the risk of exploding if fermentaton re-starts, and since they're stored cold typically any fermentation that does re-start will be rather slow.

I also do the reverse when I ferment in kegs. Attach a line of tubing to the gas post and place it in a blowoff container of starsan. Alternatively you could just cover the end with a cotton ball if you're feeling frisky, very similar to pastuers original swan neck flask experiment
Click to expand...

"The Frisky Fermentationist"

I think I've seen that movie...
 
Gavin C said:
I don't know I'm afraid. Some sort of voile material I think.



Yes. FV: Fermentation Vessel



After fermentation is complete. I estimate this will be in 10-14 days but it will of course be dictated by data and other objective signs of completed fermentation.



I will dry-hop for 5 days in the FV at 68F prior to cold crashing and packaging the beer.
<1 minute task.
  • Take cap off carboy
  • Toss in 2oz of pellet hops
  • Replace carboy cap.

When racking to the keg I will place 1 oz of Leaf hops in a bag in the CO2 filled keg. I rack the beer via the liquid out post to minimize O2 exposure. Racking is slower via the dip tube owing to its narrow diameter but it's not a big deal and arguably not needed.

Racking via dip-tubeView attachment 321100
Click to expand...

It s awesome! Such a great explanation! Thanks Gavin for your patience! I Will learn lots thanks to you. :)
 
hezagenius said:
How do you get the transfer started using a QD? Are you adding pressure to the fermentor to get the siphon started?

Also, where did you get that colander that fits over the kettle? That's what I need.
Click to expand...

Gavin, how wide is the colander without the handles? I'm trying to figure out if that colander will work for me but Amazon lists the width at 16in, which I assume includes the handles. Thanks in advance.
 
My competition luck continues.

I recently scored a 42.5 and a second place ribbon in the dark lager category for my Munich Dunkel. Hooray!

I employed a hybrid decoction mash when brewing this beer. I don't know how important that is.

Palmetto State Brewers open

Here is the recipe if anyone is interested.

Ribbon
Riboon beer.jpg
 
Psylocide said:
Awesome, you earned it. Congrats.
Click to expand...

slym2none said:
893applaud-thumb.gif
Click to expand...

pricelessbrewing said:
Congrats Gavin. I don't think I've ever had the style. Any commercial examples come to mind?
Click to expand...

jschein said:
Great job!
Click to expand...

Thanks lads. Much appreciated.

@pricelessbrewing

Hoffbrau Dunkel is a commonly available example of the style. Not as dark as mine.

I think the decoction made it quite a bit darker than planned. Right at the edge of the style was one judge's comment. I'll be reducing the "Carafe III special" next time to 3-4oz I think. A little goes a long way and the decoction seems to have magnified its effects.
 
Gavin C said:
Arguably the most important addition to my setup is my chest freezer with STC 1000 temperature controller.

STC 1000View attachment 240151

7.1 Cubic ft. Chest FreezerView attachment 241580

Heat SourceView attachment 241581View attachment 241582

This allows me to ferment two 5.5 gallon batches at a time; assuming similar yeast requirements for each, at the optimal temperature for any given yeast and/or recipe requirement.

Crash cooling is also possible.

An immediate an obvious improvement in my beer was the result of this added control. I would encourage anyone with space and means to get a similar setup.
Click to expand...

I appreciate this is an old post, but I wonder if you could tell me how your set up has performed? Do you get undershoots that result in the heater kicking in, followed by an overahoot, And so on?

Thanks
 
p_p said:
I appreciate this is an old post, but I wonder if you could tell me how your set up has performed? Do you get undershoots that result in the heater kicking in, followed by an overahoot, And so on?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Not a bother mate.

It performs very well. I don't use the heater at all any more. I'll need it if I ever do a Saison I suppose but otherwise it's redundant.

I don't get much if any undershoot. The temperature is very stable at set point +/- 0.3°C

When I need to ramp the temperature I just set it to where I want it to get to and let the fermenting beer passively rise to that point over a day or two. Once it reaches the higher point it is once again stable.

Very simple, very effective. Nice clean, boring, uneventful fermentations are the norm.
 
Gavin C said:
Not a bother mate.

It performs very well. I don't use the heater at all any more. I'll need it if I ever do a Saison I suppose but otherwise it's redundant.

I don't get much if any undershoot. The temperature is very stable at set point +/- 0.3°C

When I need to ramp the temperature I just set it to where I want it to get to and let the fermenting beer passively rise to that point over a day or two. Once it reaches the higher point it is once again stable.

Very simple, very effective. Nice clean, boring, uneventful fermentations are the norm.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that Gavin, I just wired mine and decided not to wire a heater. I did a test run with water a did get an undershoot grater than expected.

How much liquid is usually on your fermentor? Where is your temp probe located?
 
p_p said:
Thanks for that Gavin, I just wired mine and decided not to wire a heater. I did a test run with water a did get an undershoot grater than expected.

How much liquid is usually on your fermentor? Where is your temp probe located?
Click to expand...

5.5 gallons + whatever volume of starter remains after decanting. (0.2-0.5L usually)

I position the probe like so, taped to the glass and insulated from the air in the chest freezer.

20 hours post pitch.jpg
 

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