Loss of pressure in keg

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
O

Ochre

Member
Joined
Oct 2, 2005
Messages
20
Reaction score
0
With my second brew (ever), I have encountered a problem with my keg losing pressure. When I tried to draw a small amount off for testing I was unable to do so because the residual fermentation pressure in the keg was so low. I decided to remove the top and check for obvious problems. I resealed the thread and o-ring with vaseline and on retightening and recharging I found this to have improved the situation. However, it still needs recharging with CO2 on an almost daily basis to ensure a good head. What would you recommend to avoid this happening again and wasting large quantities of CO2?

Thanks folks. Ochre
 
What kind of keg is this?


I'm mildly concerned about the use of Vaseline as a seal lubricant because, if I recall correctly, that is a petroleum by product. Depending on what material your seals are made out of, that's a bad thing.
 
It's a king keg (available in the UK) - I'm sure the instructions recommended its use. It's a plastic/rubber large bore cylindrical o-ring.
 
It's pretty full (small air space) and yes - using the S30 cylinder. Thanks.
 
I use a similar set up (Mr Widget) and have found as it gets nearer the end it looses pressure and head. The barrel uses rubber grommets for the pressure release, I believe you can get different colours for different pressures. If the rubbers are old they may need replacing.

Did you prime the beer? If so it should produce CO2 and help the pressure, if not I guess the CO2 is being dissolve into the beer and reducing the pressure.

That's my way of looking at it anyway. Others may say different.

And yes it is recommended to use Vaseline.
 
Thanks Orfy - any good kits you would recommend I try and that might be available in the UK?
 
There's loads.
Any Homebrew store will have a choice. Even Wilkinsons and Morrisons have them. (I'd keep away for the £4.99 stuff though).

I've enjoyed the John bull ones I've done. They cost around £7.
Make sure you go for a kit. I.E. Hopped extract around 1.6kg with yeast and buy your self some sanitiser as well.

I'd do this beer as per instructions so you have a base line to compare your next beers but If you want my advise buy your self a 2.5g bucket and lid from the HB store for around £3 and do a secondary fermentation for 10 to 14 days. One week in you can start your next brew in the keg.

The next stage to realy take your beer up a level is to buy a pack of hops and a 500g pack of specialty grain. (enough to do a few batches) It'll add more to the taste and feel of the beer.

If you explain to the HB store that you want to do a 2.5g batch without sugar they explain how to do it.
Happy brewing.
 
orfy said:
There's loads.
Any Homebrew store will have a choice. Even Wilkinsons and Morrisons have them. (I'd keep away for the £4.99 stuff though).

I've enjoyed the John bull ones I've done. They cost around £7.
Make sure you go for a kit. I.E. Hopped extract around 1.6kg with yeast and buy your self some sanitiser as well.

I'd do this beer as per instructions so you have a base line to compare your next beers but If you want my advise buy your self a 2.5g bucket and lid from the HB store for around £3 and do a secondary fermentation for 10 to 14 days. One week in you can start your next brew in the keg.

The next stage to realy take your beer up a level is to buy a pack of hops and a 500g pack of specialty grain. (enough to do a few batches) It'll add more to the taste and feel of the beer.

If you explain to the HB store that you want to do a 2.5g batch without sugar they explain how to do it.
Happy brewing.
Click to expand...

Thanks Orfy - I've wanted to start experimenting.
 
I'd make sure you crank the lid down REALLY tight - no, tighter than that.
But before you do, take the lid off and make sure that on the valve, on the underneath of the lid, the little black rubber is properly seated - it wasn't on mine. Also make sure that the rubber on the top side of the lids is properly seated, and that the valve is as tight as it can be. Double check the tap nut too, to be sure it's tight.

Other than the "inside" valve rubber being misseated on mine, I've never experienced a pressure loss at all.
Hope this helps

Kitwise, I'd recommend the Brewferm stuff if you like Belgium beers - I have a Diabalo (Duvel clone), Abdij (Abbey), Tarwebier (Wheat beer) and Christmas Beer all conditioning in the shed. I tested a Diabalo about a month ago. Very very very very nice, and close to Duvel. Another couple of weeks, this stuff will be awesome! Takes about 3 months to condition though.
Ken
 
When you are done with the beer in the keg try sealing it up and pressurizing it. Then look for leaks at connections and tubing junctions as well as pressure blowoffs, then take some heavly soaped water and drip it on the connections one at a time to find the leak. The soapy water will bubble where there is gas escaping.
 
Your're not just a pretty face are you AHammer16?? I'm thinking that would even be a clever plan if I was Secret Squirrel! Thanks ;)
 

Similar threads

MaxStout
Preventing O2 ingress when cold-crashing for lagering - ideas?
2 3
Replies
81
Views
3K
jerrylotto
jerrylotto
hunchonbeer
Counter Pressure Bottle Filling
Replies
6
Views
2K
bracconiere
bracconiere
M
Flavor and aroma loss - I can not figure out why this keeps happening!
2 3
Replies
85
Views
6K
doug293cz
doug293cz
C
Voided Warranty for Disassembling Keg???
Replies
9
Views
1K
mac_1103
mac_1103
J
Avoiding O2 at all costs for wedding NEIPA - My Low O2 Setup
Replies
6
Views
1K
doug293cz
doug293cz
Williams Brewing 300

Latest posts

Back
Top