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First wort hops go into the kettle before you start boiling. For all-grain, the hops go in as you start collecting liquid from the mash tun.

Depends on the recipe. I've got a pretty damn accurate clone for Celebration that has 2# of crystal in it.

What formula are you using in ProMash. It defaults to Rager, and after making a hop bursted beer earlier this year, I switched IBU formulas to Tinseth. The beer I made (according to the Rager formula) was supposed to be 46 IBU and like 1.060 OG. When the beer was done and carbed and ready to...

lower efficiency just means you needed to use more grain to produce the wort than somebody with higher efficiency. If I made this recipe and targeted the OG you have, I would have to reduce the amounts of the grains (drop 1/3 of everything) In theory, our wort would taste the same.

That one is a DAMN good porter, and true to style for a robust porter (vs brown porter).

adding out of the ordinary flavors is a great way to make an interesting beer, but also a great way to make a terrible beer. I see it often happen that someone wants to experiment (which is great), but they go overboard with the extra stuff. My suggestion when using something different in a...

That thing has 14 kinds of hops in it. It will be almost impossible to clone it... that's too many varieties to realiztically sort out in the proper amounts and times. Their website contains about as much info as possible with out giving the recipe away: New Dank Tank Release – Ghoulash...

One of my brewing buddies and I were talking about invert sugar once and he pointed out that the wort is an acid environment and your boil provides the heat. So... if you are inverting sugar for the purpose of brewing, it isn't necessary. Sugar will invert while in the boil kettle anyway...

just noticed your "astringent bite" desire in the OP. I don't consider rootbeer to be astringent in any way, but if you add that # of patent, you'll get astringent for sure

I make a porter with blackstrap in it every fall. A couple of points since you are brewing my favorite style of beer, and in a manner similar to how I make it myself. 1lb of black patent is a TON of black patent. patent is used in small quantities for color and not really for flavor. if you...

I would just steep that small bit of grain in a quart of water As for the amount of pre-boil volume, that depends on your boil-off rate. Just start with 1.5 gallons. You can top-it back off to 1 gallon at the end of the boil if you are under 1 gallon.

If you want to taste molasses, you might want to add some molasses to the recipe. :)

personally... I'd drop the patent down to no more than 0.25#. patent is something you use for color only. Use too much and you start to get flavor from it.... and the flavor is a lot like burned/charred/ashen/acrid. Not exactly something I want to taste. You also don't really need to double...

porter or mix with some light colored LME and make a brown ale

I wish I could. I bought and split a sack of it with a couple of other guys and I brewed (duh) and ESB with it a month or so ago. I tapped that keg a few days ago and was disappointed to find that something went wrong during fermentation and I have some weird off flavors in it.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f12/blue-point-toasted-clone-234694/

That one always confused me. Despite the fact that it has "goldings" in the name, it's actually a fuggle grown in slovenia.

I'd go with the glacier.

Bell's 2-hearted Ale uses centennial and only centennial for every addition.

I addition to large amounts of 2-row, I always have decent amounts of munich and vienna on hand, several pounds of various light, medium, and dark crystal malts, some carapils, some and some sort of chocolate malt. that keeps me pretty well covered for basics, and then i just buy the oddball...