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Mash temp doesn't affect og, OG comes from how much grains, their potential, and your system's efficiency. Mashing at a higher temp should give you a higher fg as stated above because of extracting more complex unfermentable sugars. In my experience the difference is minimal to non existent...

hmmm...thanks for the ideas but everything looks good. I did take apart and reassemble the qd (with spring) so the only thing I can think is that piece isn't working now, though why it won't work I have no answer. I ordered a new one and hope I can drop that into place and get some IPA.

I need a fresh set of eyes so to speak to help me figure out what's going on here. I had a keg of IPA and thought it wasn't flowing because of a clogged dip tube. After checking that and ruling it out I hooked up the quick disconnect to another keg which is working fine, same problem, there's...

I think the issue with your OG is measuring at too high a temperature. Just because you can correct for measurements at 160 degrees doesn't mean they're accurate. Try to take a small sample and cool it down to at least 100 before correcting. Your fermenter looks to contain heaps of trub, I...

I have three identical buckets with spigots that I use as fermenters or bottling buckets, I like to transfer to a 'bottling' bucket to get off the trub when bottling and get a good mix with the priming solution. Whether or not that bottling bucket just got cleaned up from fermenting a beer...

I bought an 'electric water bath canner' from weck for about 150$ and use that as my boil kettle for 5 gallon in my little apartment. If you want to invest some money and do 5 gallon batches that could be an option.

another light bulb in a paint can here. I don't even use temp control, I just leave it on and change the bulb to different wattages depending how cold it is.

Im on board with that you may have had hop pieces in your sample which if you go nibble on a pellet you'll find it'll tear your face off. I'd definetly cold crash as m3 suggests to get all those hops to settle out.

meh, maybe :D depends on your taste really. I just checked my actual notes and I used an oz at 10, 0.5@5 and 1 @0 then dry hop because I decided to based on the sample. THere's no right or wrong, what you have there will make a tasty beer Im sure. Let's face it, how much hops and when is...

Hopping looks fine, Im assuming you're doing a 1 gallon batch? I'm drinking an amber right now that I find delicious, If I recall did a fwh with centennial, then I had 2.5 oz cent./cascade (for 6 gallon) spaced out in similar additions to you. I tried a hydro sample at two weeks and decided...

I really would get some C120 and replace 3% of your total crystal with that. If picking up some is not an option then a touch of chocolate would be fine, a couple ounces for a 5 gallon batch should change the color but flavor would be relatively subdued and un-noticeable.

Something seems amiss with your IBU's, 4 oz at 60 minutes and another 2 at 30 has got to be way over 100 unless your centennial is very low AA%. Any american ale yeast will do well with this, US-05, Wyeast 1056 or 1272, or wlp equivalents.

Brandon O's Graff was perfect to wash down all that deliciousness. Nice hoppy amber for dessert.

When you moved it you probably knocked some CO2 out of suspension hence the apparent increase in activity. As said, same SG over 3 days and you're done.

Just to give you another idea, you could make a sugar solution of known concentration and use a kitchen syringe to add your bottling sugar. THat's what I do, I add 5 ml sugar solution per bottle which should be about 2 grams. Made it alot easier to deal with the measurements and I just keep on...

Im curious about this idea. I will say that you definetly want to rehydrate prior to putting in wort. Ive read somewhere that rehydrating in water is crucial to the dry yeast building up cell walls and basically getting themselves back in shape. After that I'd think you could put it in wort...

I'd go with day tripr's suggestion but change chinook to centennial FWH and dry hop with .5 oz of all three

haha, same here! Another vote for dryhopping.

Keep in mind that if your closet is 70 then the beer is going to be a good 5*F warmer if not more, not sure if you meant beer or air temp. 70F ambient temp would probably be warmer than you want for most yeast. Anyway a common method to keep it cooler would be to leave the fermenter surrounded...

It occured to me after my original post that a ferm time that fast might be on the high end for your temp range. Is 70 what you were going for, or do you have temp control? Not to fear Im sure it will be fine but if you're not in control of your temps getting setup for that would be beneficial...