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Maybe throw a pack of Windsor in there.

Fair enough, heh. I've been looking for a way to make 1/2bbl sanke doable before I go big. The jaybird setups look pretty freaking nice, but I'm not sure I trust the pipe-with-holes solution for cleaning.

What are you doing for packaging?

Personally, I would say you are continuously vorlaufing.

The grain bed will act as a filter, so I can't see a need to have a separate filter -- hence the vorlauf phase. For my brewhouse, I use continuous recirculation, so I get clear wort from the very beginnings of the lauter/sparge.

What are you doing for packaging batches that size?

Do you have a source for this? Not questioning, just curious.

Mostly the banana parts, which is what my wife likes. I ferment high and let it rise even higher, but otherwise it's just a hefeweizen. EDIT: Do you mash your grains for a hefeweizen? If so, do you follow a traditional decoction regimen? Hefeweizens are the one style we still do as extract...

Have you used M20 by chance? If so, curious how it stacks up against WB-06 and Danstar Munich?

I use WB-06, which I like for it's attenuation and lack of egg farts. Some people under-pitch a hefe to juice the ester profile, but I prefer using a higher temperature. It just feels like a better choice for the health of the ferment.

No worries, that's allowed. :mug: I commend you for going to the trouble, but it's just not worth it to me.

72F ambient and let it rise as high as it wants to go

Dry yeast has sufficient variety these days, especially once you start to learn to manipulate all of the variables of your brewhouse (both hot and cold side) to coax out the desired qualities of your finished beer. Couple that with the repeatable nature of its performance due to superior...

Viability tanks rather quickly in liquid yeast, especially depending on the handling of it during transport. This means you cannot reliably estimate cell count on a per-package basis, short of firing up a hemocytometer. It is for this reason that you should *always* make a starter for anything...

You'll almost certainly get some unexpected flavors, but I don't view them as an entirely negative thing. I would encourage you to simply put the lid back on it, let it finish, and then enjoy the beer you made for whatever it turns out to be.

For that I would have used two (or maybe 3?) packs of US-05. If you insist on the liquid version, a large starter would have been highly recommended. (You should *always* make a starter for all non-dried yeasts, honestly.) In the end, you'll make beer -- but you might get some esters from...

Personally, I think that is too low of a fermentation regimen since I like the estery notes of the yeast-forward styles. Have you not had issues lautering with no protein rest? Wheat can go very glue-y if you aren't careful.

My experience had lead me to believe that mash regimen / grain bill has much to do with the flavors of a good Bavarian style hefe. And either way, it's something I love about this hobby -- so much diversity of outcome. Cheers!

I suppose my experiences differ from yours. I think it makes a very true-to-style hefeweizen when fermented at 73F ambient, and has the bonus of not smelling like egg farts.

Fair enough, but the temp range of WB-06 is 64F to 75F so you can get away with ambient if needed. Glad you identified your issue.