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Don't use the muslin bags, get a nylon bag. The grains are going to contribute a good amount of your fermentables you want to have a lot of space so they can be loose in the bag and you can stir. You can use a 5 gal paint strainer bag but I like the 24x24in bags (morebeer) for my 2.5 gal BIAB...

You absorbed 3/5.39 = .56 qt per lb of grain. That's pretty close to the usual quote of .125 gal per lb for non BIAB (i.e. 1/2 qt per lb).

There is sugar/wort left in that volume in the fermenter. Just like when you leave behind wort after racking, that is not all water you are losing sugars too (or beer if it's post fermentation). If you only account for the sugar content in doing your calculations that means you somehow expect...

Ah, okay. For an amber I'd probably swap out the carapils and add some additional darker crystal/caramel. At just 5% C60 with the rest base/carapils it may be more like a pale ale.

It would also help to know what kind of beer you're trying to make. Guessing on amounts and hops I'm thinking English IPA? The 2 lb of carapils is a lot. It's not going to ruin it or anything but I'm not sure why you would want 2 lbs of it especially as there is already crystal in the recipe...

I had the same experience recently with my first try at coconut. As you say, it doesn't compact down like hops with cold crashing so the dip tube got clogged. I tried a mesh bag with stainless washer tied around a siphon tube as I've seen others do, that kept clogging too. So far the beer...

That seems like a pretty big range. Is this single infusion? How are you measuring, is thermometer calibrated? If you are really mashing some of the batches in the low 160's maybe that's the reason.

Why don't you just top off your fermenter on brew day instead of adding it at bottling?

It's a pretty negligible cost difference at the place I've been using for the past 10yrs. I have a 20# and a 5# backup, last time I swapped them both out together it was $22 for the big one and $20 for the 5 lb. Prices have gone up slowly over the years but it's always about a 2-3$ difference...

I don't get nutty from brown malt either, more coffee. Victory to me is like dry toast. GNO on the other hand tastes like peanuts to me.

I'll echo the others. Especially with small batches BIAB can be super simple. I used to brew mostly 10-12 gal batches on a morebeer sculpture, but I sold it last year as I've gone exclusively to stove top BIAB. I do 2-3 gal batches in my old 5 gal extract pot, plus the occasional 5 gal batch...

Forgive me if I'm missing something but I'm not quite sure why we are so overly concerned with bombs on this batch. Gravity was stable over 6 days, including after a swirl and making sure temp wasn't too low. It is at about 69% apparent attenuation with SO4 which seems in range, and I'm...

Yeah no worries. If you had for example pitched a Belgian yeast into a clean ale recipe you might have gotten some flavors you weren't expecting (as others mentioned hard to totally get it out once you've pitched). 05 is neutral though, and since you probably managed to pitch more 04 than 05...

You mean you pitched the wrong yeast into your wort? Then you took it out how? It might help if you give us a little more to go on like what you were making, what yeast you pitched, and what yeast you were supposed to pitch.

It's not the yeast, it's the super high gravity. How much honey did you use in what volume anyway? A typical mead would be something like 2-4 lb honey per gallon.

Still more piling on, but I found the same. I'm in the commando group now too.

This would be a total estimate but gauging from the picture, if the scale stays linear, it looks like it's floating about 45 gravity pts below the 1.170 mark. So 1.215 ish starting OG? If it fermented to around 1.154, using the brewer's friend calculator for higher gravities that gives about...

It looks like it fits right on the flared gas out disconnects. See picture below, and in their instructions it says to thread it directly on. https://www.midwestsupplies.com/cannonball-system-mini-regulator

Jeepers, that first one is post fermentation? The line looks about where the 36 brix marker would be, or 1.154 on my triple scale. The second one I assume is pre-fermentation, it looks like it's just suspended in honey :p

What was the OG and the FG now? Do you know why it didn't finish - i.e. did you accidentally mash really high (in which case more yeast likely won't help) or do you think your original yeast was just crap? If i was going to try to restart something I'd probably pitch a starter at high krausen.