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Recipe was 9lbs Munich malt 4oz Carafe II 4oz Melanoiden Both Carafe and Melanoiden were added towards the end of the mash for color Thanks good to know that 1.018 might be as far as the gravity goes, because it seems set... Mash schedule was 10 minutes at 131 40 minutes at 146 30 minutes...

Thanks for all the input, will let it come slowly to room-temp and see what it does next... It could be the Tilt isn't telling the truth (although the steady movement of the tilt before it hit 1.018 would SEEM to indicate it is, although I've not peaked in to check that it's still floating...

Thanks, 51 seemed good from what I could find online about what people fermented with for this yeast, but thanks, will leave it to rise

Been fermenting now for a little under a week. I brewed a Munich Dunkel on Sunday last (3/24) pitched two packs of Saflager 34/70, temp control set to 51F O.G. according to Tilt Hyrdometer was 1.051 On Tuesday the gravity started to drop, slowly at first, but then quicker For the past day or...

OMG so sorry, not sure how I must have stumbled into a really old thread and didn't realize... apologies.

Subscription to BYO magazine for just info, info and more info. Deciding to go tri-clamp on everything I can (I HATE threaded valves, I can never get them not to leak) A bigger kettle than I originally got (went 10 gallon, should have gotten 15) Without knowing what direction you went with...

So what you're saying is "relax, dont worry, have a homebrew":ban:

I'm using that same element that the OP mentioned, this is a picture from my last brewday after I took the element out, on closer inspection it does look like there is some small amount of scorching, although not convinced. The ramp-up followed the below schedule 1. 10 minutes at 55C 9 minute...

And this mash schedule to some extent was more "that's what the book said, and I wanted to put my RIMS tube through something a little more interesting" I went back to my notes, timing wise it looks like my first two raises gained at about 1C per minute, the last raise was more like 2.5C per...

Just curious, I did my first multi-step mash this weekend (which worked yay!) but wasn't sure how others normally factor in ramp times? So the schedule for temperatures and times in the brew I did this weekend was 1. 10 minutes at 55C 2. 40 minutes at 63.3C 3. 30 minutes at 70C 4. 15 minutes...

So, I'd speculate it could well be a combination, Monster mill may have started with a good gap when it left the factory, but who knows what the gap was by the time it got to me (and I'm not trying in any way to blame Monster Mill here, this was entirely MY error, I should have checked the gap...

Thanks, I added 200g just because I really don't want a repeat of last time, and this being a multi stage mash I know I'll need it to flow okay. 4.5kg of grain is what I added too

Having gotten a new grain Mill, I did my first batch of all grain with it, stuck sparge, burnt element, all bad. What I probably stupidly hadn't done was check the Mill Gap before using it (assumed monster Mill would start with a good Gap). So second batch now (got to get back on that bike) can...

Since you do that, do you put the hose actually into the water, or have it spray onto the edge or...

The RIMS temp probe is right pretty much at the tip of the heating element (not quite touching). I didn't have this issue my first RIMS mash, so I guess it could easily be channeling that I was better at avoiding the first time. This shows the basic setup (I wasn't running it here)...

I guess then do you avoid channeling just by pointing the hose at the side wall of the tun and/or the flow rate being super slow. I guess I figured the CIP ball would help break up the flow thus stopping any potential channeling.

It could have been channeling, at the time my rims output is/was just the tube back into the cooler mash-tun, I got a CIP ball few days ago to hopefully improve that. I don't (yet) fly-sparge, it's still batch effectively, but could have caused some channeling with the output from RIMS, will...

Not using it to control a boil, my last Mash got terrible efficiency (read around 50% I think, maybe even less) and the main change in my brew process recently has been using a RIMS system, so I wondered if this had somehow caused it (I did however use it as an excuse to replace my corona mill...

The first two seem obvious, Manual - You choose the power setting Auto - System does it all What does Manual Inhibit do? I know the IPB-16 comes pre-defaulted to Manual Inhibit and I don't know if I need to change this (or not).

Okay, it was only mildly related to brewing, so this seemed the best place. Recently was thinking about Emergency supplies (living in CA, the next big Earthquake is always gently on my mind) and I had a thought... what about storing emergency water in my Fermenter when I'm not using it? I have...