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My guess is how people are cleaning them. Whether they cycle the valves during cleaning or just leave them open and not realising that inside the valve body is a volume of wort that isn't being cleaned out.

Generally that washer is a thrust washer and if it is getting chewed up the likely reason is the inlet line is restricted causing the impeller to be pulled towards the front housing and against the washer - more restriction equal more force equal more wear which will chew out the washer quicker...

Isn't 5 hours a day for 20 years 36,500 hours so not much of an increase over the 30,000 hours claim :)

There are many different coupler types other than the typical D-type

Any chance you can share the process/pictures for the DIY probes?

What is the ambient temp at the moment? If you have a decent chest freezer with good seals then you likely will get away with doing nothing.

It is not uncommon in the commercial world for smaller breweries to ferment in tanks with "half moon" lids - most of these are reused farm milk vats (another situation where they do not want unwanted organisms into the product). Look at this yeasty goodness :)

It still has a threaded inlet and outlet. I would have preferred TC on these in place of the flow control valve but that's just me...

Grounding doesn't protect against what GFCI protect against. Your statement shows that you don't know everything about electrical safety. I still stand by my stance on the "trip the gfci" e-stop isn't best practice but that doesn't mean gfci are not a valid safety device. And all gfci should be...

So they split the g/box from the engine and then decided it was too hard? Then just left it with you to sort out? That is some extremely bad service - they could of at least taken it to the dealer for you... but I don't know if I would of trusted them with even that "simple" job :(

An Aquarium chiller plus and 12V dc pump and you have yourself a 1/4hp chiller under US$200 http://www.ebay.com/itm/220V-AL-Fish-Shrimp-Plant-Aquarium-200W-Water-Cooling-Machine-Fan-Chiller-60L-/322270463096?hash=item4b08d10478:g:hrIAAOSwmLlX5M8W

HWats the intake side of the pumps set up like? From the fact that throttling back the outlet of the pumps solved the HLT issue I would think potentially you have a cavitation issue from a restricted inlet.

Yeah - what is it specific about English IPAs that makes them red flags to you?

If you are going to be selling these, then you would need to comply with all the legislation involved in supplying electrical equipment. Meaning testing and other compliance costs. Plus business costs. Add in the cost to take what you have and pretty it up so someone would want to buy it and the...

If you have a 4 pin outlet could you not also wire up an adapter with the 3 pin outlet in a junction box with a short cord - just for those that still need a 4 pin outlet

Cheers :)

Had a bit more of a look around and found the Sabco keg brite https://www.brewmagic.com/products/select-sankey-keg/ This has a 4" opening, but really want to get people's thoughts... so anyone have any thoughts?

Don't know if I missed it (sorry if I did) but how big is the hole you cut in the keg itself. looks like you have a 3/4" (approx.) lip on your "lid" so is the hole a bit bigger than 5"? Asking as I currently am looking at converting a couple of 50L kegs and wasn't to check if a 4" TC would be...

This probably doesn't help you since you have already bought them but I always considered these sensors to be sold as waterproof from the pint they are install in a short 50mm thermowell already... you just have to figure out a way to mount that 6mm thermowell into you fluid. I have used 1/2"...

Looking to convert some 50L kegs into fermenters, only issue is I got them from a brewery as they were scrapping them due to beer stone build up so I need to get in there to scrub them out (and therefore can't just use the 2" TC conversion method). I was originally thinking a 4" TC would be too...