Haussenbrau
Well-Known Member
First I am going to describe my equipment.
Mash Tun: 5-gallon Igloo drink cooler
HLT: 5-gallon Igloo drink cooler
Boil Kettle: 10-gallon Polarware with ball valve (0.6 gallon dead space)
Boil kettle also used to heat strike water and sparge water.
I used the fly sparge method when I first started all grain. I now use double batch sparge. Now onto the subject at hand.
The issue that I had: I brew 5-gallon batches which means I start with 5.5 gallons in the primary. That means I would have a 10% hit in my Brewhouse efficiency with a 0.6 gallon dead-space in the boil kettle. If I tilted the kettle and tried to whirlpool then the hops, hot break and cold break would end up in the fermentor.
I did some research on the internet and found biodiesel filters that fit on top of buckets. I do a single pass through a 200 micron filter for Porters and Stouts. I do a double pass for lighter beers. The double pass procedure is 200 micron followed by 75 micron. The 200 micron filter mainly catches the hops and the 75 micron filter catches fine hop particles, hot break, and cold break.
I end up with very clear beer without sacrificing Brewhouse Efficiency. You will need a vat of Star San to sanitize the filters. You will need to back flush the filters every 1 to 2 gallons. This does vary depending on what you are brewing.
This only works with immersion chillers. I would not risk using this procedure before the wort is chilled as that could cause hot side oxidation.
I posted this just to give others an idea.
Mash Tun: 5-gallon Igloo drink cooler
HLT: 5-gallon Igloo drink cooler
Boil Kettle: 10-gallon Polarware with ball valve (0.6 gallon dead space)
Boil kettle also used to heat strike water and sparge water.
I used the fly sparge method when I first started all grain. I now use double batch sparge. Now onto the subject at hand.
The issue that I had: I brew 5-gallon batches which means I start with 5.5 gallons in the primary. That means I would have a 10% hit in my Brewhouse efficiency with a 0.6 gallon dead-space in the boil kettle. If I tilted the kettle and tried to whirlpool then the hops, hot break and cold break would end up in the fermentor.
I did some research on the internet and found biodiesel filters that fit on top of buckets. I do a single pass through a 200 micron filter for Porters and Stouts. I do a double pass for lighter beers. The double pass procedure is 200 micron followed by 75 micron. The 200 micron filter mainly catches the hops and the 75 micron filter catches fine hop particles, hot break, and cold break.
I end up with very clear beer without sacrificing Brewhouse Efficiency. You will need a vat of Star San to sanitize the filters. You will need to back flush the filters every 1 to 2 gallons. This does vary depending on what you are brewing.
This only works with immersion chillers. I would not risk using this procedure before the wort is chilled as that could cause hot side oxidation.
I posted this just to give others an idea.