• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

1-Gallon Brewers UNITE!

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Thinking about doing a SMaSH this afternoon with Styrian Goldings and maybe MO. Anybody ever scaled down a Styrian Stunner variation?

I figure 2lbs of base grain and 3 additions of 5.5g hops sounds about right.

Never got around to this (plan to this afternoon), so I thought I'd throw it out there one more time.
 
Burninator - what's your typical effeciency?

Most of the Styrian Stunner recipes I've seen have a large bittering addition, mid flavor, and lighter aroma. Sort of a 4/2/1 ratio, so if you're using 16g of hops, you'd be looking at like 8g@60min/5g@15min/3g@5min. Any english pale base malt would work - MO's always good, Golden Promise might be a fun substitute.

You going to use S04 or Notty?
 
Thinking of doing a SMaSH of Vienna and possibly Willamette. Want something that isn't too hoppy and I have 1.5 oz of Willamette in the freezer. Might go with 4 lbs Vienna and 05 for yeast
 
Burninator - what's your typical effeciency?

Most of the Styrian Stunner recipes I've seen have a large bittering addition, mid flavor, and lighter aroma. Sort of a 4/2/1 ratio, so if you're using 16g of hops, you'd be looking at like 8g@60min/5g@15min/3g@5min. Any english pale base malt would work - MO's always good, Golden Promise might be a fun substitute.

You going to use S04 or Notty?
While I'm really new to this, I'm operating under the assumption of around 70%. Last 2 beers I brewed came in nearly where I wanted them, assuming that rate, and the last one came in a little higher.

I didn't have as much Styrian Goldings as I remembered, so having already picked up a couple pounds of Vienna, I went with Czech Saaz, instead. At 2.4%AA, I think the additions you described above are approximately right.

I went about 0.4oz at 60min. Just starting to boil. So I'm thinking another .25oz at 10min and the same at flameout.

I have US-05 and Belle Saison on hand (real brew day is next week...this is mostly for kicks). Thinking about using the 05 and then pitching an amber on the yeast cake next week.
 
Styrian Goldings is supposed to be a Czech Fuggles, if memory serves - or is it EKG? It's one of them, and for some reason my brain's foggy.

Saaz is a different animal - but in my opinion, I love Saaz - almost more than Fuggles/EKG. If you did a Vienna/Saaz smash, it'll be great. I did a Vienna SMASH with Northern Brewer and it was awesome, I'd be the subtle Saaz addition with Vienna would be perfect.

Definitely US05 over Belle, but those are both great yeasts.

Sounds like you have some GREAT beers to brew here soon!

:tank:
 
Styrian Goldings is supposed to be a Czech Fuggles, if memory serves - or is it EKG? It's one of them, and for some reason my brain's foggy.

Saaz is a different animal - but in my opinion, I love Saaz - almost more than Fuggles/EKG. If you did a Vienna/Saaz smash, it'll be great. I did a Vienna SMASH with Northern Brewer and it was awesome, I'd be the subtle Saaz addition with Vienna would be perfect.

Definitely US05 over Belle, but those are both great yeasts.

Sounds like you have some GREAT beers to brew here soon!

:tank:
Thanks for the reassurance! I really wasn't planning on winging it tonight, but I guess that's how it goes. I love Saaz, too. Went pretty light with it. MyBrewCo has me right above 30IBU, which is straight down the middle. Should give me a good idea of what I'm doing with both the hops and the malt.

Maybe I can even time this to toss on something bigger when the amber is done. Maybe a Cascadian.
 
That's what I do typically with IIPA's, make something medium and then save the yeast slurry and repitch that.

I used to pitch right on the cake when I was brewing every weekend, but now that summer/fall's here (busiest time in our fam with projects and activities) I don't brew as often, so I put the yeast slurry (trub and all) into a sanitized mason jar and into the fridge. Once the slurry's in the fridge for a while, it separates out with yeast on top and trub on bottom. Just pitch the yeast portion and tada!

I've stored yeast this way for 2-3 weeks and it's always taken off gangbusters once I pitch it.

Man, I need to brew. Okay, I really need to drink what I've already brewed, but I want to brew again.

Working on an idea for an American Mild (not a session IPA, something lower than an APA)
 
I normally brew 5 gallons at a time but I have been giving serious thought to doing some 1 gallon brews. It makes sense to me that instead of 5 gallons of the same thing I could split up the ingredients I would need for those 5 gallons , and with a little imagination and a few extra ingredients I could concievably brew either up to 5 different beers or 5 variations of the same one , at once. Only one gallon of each , but still 5 gallons total , and there would be a good variety to try when they finish up. I may give it a try sometime.
 
Friday night has become my brew night. First: dinner with family. Then 15 mins to heat water, measure grains, and start mash. Then I have an hour and a half for other activities before it's time to boil, add hops, get yeast ready, prep fermenter, etc. Done by 11.

Yesterday was a 1 gallon experiment with vienna and a light and a dark crystal malt. OG 1.060, higher mash temp than usual, 22 IBU. Aiming for a stronger/sweeter "comfort beer" for the cold days ahead. We'll see.
 
The universe laughs at me again! :mad:

I've had enough of the keg with no bottom (aka the Tumbleweed) - seriously, I've been drinking it for the last few weeks and it had no end in sight. So, I figured today would be the last day and I'd pull the keg regardless. As a parting farewell, I thought I'd pour one last glass - it made it 3/4's of a glass and sputtered everywhere.

Ha. So THERE'S the end of the keg. Well, out with the empty and in with the Damphbier. 30sec later I have my LCA hooked up and pouring with the DB gassing up over the next few weeks.

Made this LCA a while ago, so of course the dryhop has faded out, but man is it tasty. Nice color, rocky head, and the wife loves it too. Looks like I've got another keeper recipe to move into permanent rotation. I can only imagine how good it would be with a solid dryhop.

:mug:
 
It is unacceptable for such an awesome thread to remain on the second page.

Who's brewing what?

Looking an an ESB and my beloved Pumpkin beer.....
 
Got a Belgian Strong Pale Ale coming in around 11%

Should be carbed up

Citra hop bomb just finished fermentation

Big ol' bourbon Barleywine coming up next.
 
Sorry if this has already been addressed, but i'm looking into 1 gallon batches as a way of growing up a yeast culture for a full 5 gallon batch.

The pros are that it gives me something far more tasty than a yeast starter to drink.

My primary concern is being able to pitch a single packet of dry yeast and have a potent slurry leftover, suitable for pitching in a 5 gallon batch. It is often said that any attempts to make a starter with dry yeast does nothing but depete the yeast's reserves? Would that be the case with a 1 gallon batch too?
 
Sorry if this has already been addressed, but i'm looking into 1 gallon batches as a way of growing up a yeast culture for a full 5 gallon batch.

The pros are that it gives me something far more tasty than a yeast starter to drink.

My primary concern is being able to pitch a single packet of dry yeast and have a potent slurry leftover, suitable for pitching in a 5 gallon batch. It is often said that any attempts to make a starter with dry yeast does nothing but depete the yeast's reserves? Would that be the case with a 1 gallon batch too?

I haven't used dry yeast in a while, but I have found that 1 vial of liquid yeast is actually necessary for 1 gallon batches with a decent OG. If its a little old, might even need more than 1 vial.

Go to Mr Malty and find an OG that will force you to use a vial or packet, brew that, then you should have a nice start to a 5 gallon.
 
Sorry if this has already been addressed, but i'm looking into 1 gallon batches as a way of growing up a yeast culture for a full 5 gallon batch.

The pros are that it gives me something far more tasty than a yeast starter to drink.

My primary concern is being able to pitch a single packet of dry yeast and have a potent slurry leftover, suitable for pitching in a 5 gallon batch. It is often said that any attempts to make a starter with dry yeast does nothing but depete the yeast's reserves? Would that be the case with a 1 gallon batch too?

I know I have read several on here talk about how reusing dry yeast is no different than liquid yeast post fermentation.

I am planning to do the same thing for a barley wine planned for this winter and hope it will be ready in fall 2015.

Dry Yeast FAQ

Reusing US-05 Thread
 
Sorry if this has already been addressed, but i'm looking into 1 gallon batches as a way of growing up a yeast culture for a full 5 gallon batch.



The pros are that it gives me something far more tasty than a yeast starter to drink.



My primary concern is being able to pitch a single packet of dry yeast and have a potent slurry leftover, suitable for pitching in a 5 gallon batch. It is often said that any attempts to make a starter with dry yeast does nothing but depete the yeast's reserves? Would that be the case with a 1 gallon batch too?


You should have a new batch of reproduced cells. I think over pitching (a full packet) might reduce reproduction. So you would grow as much.
 
It is unacceptable for such an awesome thread to remain on the second page.

Who's brewing what?

Looking an an ESB and my beloved Pumpkin beer.....


Thursday, I will be brewing a Belgian Dubbel! Looking forward to it, this will be my first usage of a liquid yeast.
 
So what method(s) do you use when bottling one gallon batches? I assume not using a bottling bucket due to loss of deadspace with a small batch or am I just wrong on that?
 
Nice! What yeast are you using? Which candi did you go with?

I am using White Labs WLP530.. The recipe is Jamil's Black Scapular Dubbel

http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/how-to-plans/beer-recipes-how-to-home-brew-dubbel#slide-10

When converting the recipe into BeerSmith, it says I only need about a third of the yeast in the pack.. Is that with direct pitch, do you think, or with a small starter? I converted that recipe into a 1.5 gallon. Because if I only need half the yeast, or if I need to make a starter I just so happen to have the ingredients to brew a Westvleteren 12 Quad, same yeast needed ;)
 
So what method(s) do you use when bottling one gallon batches? I assume not using a bottling bucket due to loss of deadspace with a small batch or am I just wrong on that?

2 gallon bottling bucket...I can tilt it towards the bottom and probably have 1/2 cup left over. I use this for my hydrometer reading and sample.
 
I am using White Labs WLP530.. The recipe is Jamil's Black Scapular Dubbel

http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/how-to-plans/beer-recipes-how-to-home-brew-dubbel#slide-10

When converting the recipe into BeerSmith, it says I only need about a third of the yeast in the pack.. Is that with direct pitch, do you think, or with a small starter? I converted that recipe into a 1.5 gallon. Because if I only need half the yeast, or if I need to make a starter I just so happen to have the ingredients to brew a Westvleteren 12 Quad, same yeast needed ;)

The veteran brewers claim you have to over pitch by something like 4 times the amount to cause a noticeable effect.

IMO go with the recommended amount since Belgians get some of the flavor from stressed yeast. Over pitching will reduce the yeast influenced part of the style.
 
Question for 1gallon batches. When doing all grain, are 2.4 L (2.5qts) of water for mash, then 3.8 L (4qts) for sparge the norm?

I was dead on with these numbers on my first batch, but had to top off with water on my second one.

Not an expert here, but if you varied your grain bill or boil time you will need to recalculate the total water volume.
 
2 gallon bottling bucket...I can tilt it towards the bottom and probably have 1/2 cup left over. I use this for my hydrometer reading and sample.

Did you buy one this size, or build it? I've seen one for sale at a nice price but the shipping is about the same cost so I'd rather just build one.. But I do not know what size hole to drill at the bottom.. And I would worry that because the circumference of a 2 gallon bucket is smaller and the curve greater than that of a 6 gallon bucket, that the little rubber seals that come with a standard spigot would leak because of a bad seal. So I am using a 6.5 gallon bucket for bottling.. WAY overkill.
 
Did you buy one this size, or build it? I've seen one for sale at a nice price but the shipping is about the same cost so I'd rather just build one.. But I do not know what size hole to drill at the bottom.. And I would worry that because the circumference of a 2 gallon bucket is smaller and the curve greater than that of a 6 gallon bucket, that the little rubber seals that come with a standard spigot would leak because of a bad seal. So I am using a 6.5 gallon bucket for bottling.. WAY overkill.


Usually a 1 inch hole. The gaskets are flat. Don't over tighten it though.
 
2gal bucket also for 1.5gal batches. Use a step bit to make the hole, and like Eric said don't overtighten.

If the round bucket bothers you, you can always get one of these:
http://www.webstaurantstore.com/cam...-with-midnight-blue-gradations/21418SFSP.html

If you look around you can find them on Amazon too, I bought mine with my induction plate to save on shipping. I think Cambro has an 8qt version for not too much - Amazon usually has a two pack, so you can get one for brewing and one for bottling!

I use a 18qt version of this for brewing, as it's easy to measure the wort for runnings, the pointed edges make pouring easy, and there's no question if it's food safe at temps under boiling. The flat walls would make punching a hole for the spigot easy. They come in all sizes, some tall, some short/fat so just find the one that works best for you.

I had originally got it for bottling my 3gal batches, but found it more useful on the brew day.
 
Did you buy one this size, or build it? I've seen one for sale at a nice price but the shipping is about the same cost so I'd rather just build one.. But I do not know what size hole to drill at the bottom.. And I would worry that because the circumference of a 2 gallon bucket is smaller and the curve greater than that of a 6 gallon bucket, that the little rubber seals that come with a standard spigot would leak because of a bad seal. So I am using a 6.5 gallon bucket for bottling.. WAY overkill.

I actually bought one. For like 5 minutes there was a website called smallbatchhomebrew.com or something like that. Its been down now. But I liked that mine has markings for the amount in it all the way up the side.

Standard white 2 gallon bucket will work. Follow the instructions for a 5 gallon bucket. I have switched out the spigot for one I got at a homebrew store, no issues so don't worry about the bend. Place it as low as you can so you can get as much of the liquid as you can out before you even need to tilt it. Or make an elbow diptube. I have to hang mine off the side of the counter and over the dishwasher.
 
Same here with the dishwasher trick - I use an old three ring binder with some of that drawer liner that keeps things from sliding wrapped around it.

Any yeast that was accidentally racked in to the bottling bucket usually ends up in the down corner away from my pickup elbow.
 
Back
Top