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doublehaul

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The brewstand has been commissioned!

I wanted a lower design, most stands seem too tall to me. I figure with casters, it will be about 24" high. The metal stand itself will be 21". Does anyone see issue with only 21" of stand height as far as a pump gravity priming OK?

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No problem at all. I'm also building a lower stand just like yours. I want to be able to stir the mash with both feet on the ground.
 
Fwiw, I've seen stands with pumps mounted to or very near the top rail and the owners seemed pleased with the pump performance. It really doesn't take but a little drop to provide enough gravity feed to flood the pump head if it is oriented correctly and some kind of bleed mechanism on the outlet is provided. A few inches is enough...

Cheers!
 
If you plan to orient your pump head up/down you may want to get the pump mounted higher or your inlet will be in the dirt. If not, disregard my comment. Looks like a solid plan

Mine is 20" in your 21" dimension and ~4" castors so 24" and is a good usable height. A few more inches would not hurt either. I would also lower my rear lower crossmember ~4" to allow more room for future automation. Right now I have little room between the rial and the back of the burners and will be changing that before I paint it.

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View attachment Brutus 10 2.0.pdf
 
30bones I have a center inlet chugger so the pump mounting shouldn't be a problem. Thanks for the tip though I didn't think of that.
 
Any suggestions on the design of the propane plumbing?

The burners turn in at 90deg, so I'm picturing the propane line coming off the tank and regulator, coming to a T, off of each of those Ts a needle valve, and lines of each needle valve going to a burner.

Here's the needle valve I'm looking at.

The needle valves I would think should be somewhere accessible.

I could add one vertical center leg to run black pipe up, or hang pipe under the center bay somehow?

I am looking at going low pressure propane, to leave the door open for adding temperature controlled valve down the road.

Here's the regulator i was looking at if I go Low Pressure.

I got the wind guard idea from this thread:https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/another-herms-born-386817/

I am wondering if I will need to add "spacers" as well to the top of the stand to let the propane vent, or if the gaps between the wind guards will be sufficient.

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I used the low pressure orifice's from Brewers Hardware and use them as my valve to adjust the flame. Also have a main shut off valve. I run a Fisher Twin Stage R232A regulator I got on Ebay for ~$50. Works great.

I can get you pics of mine finished if you want.
 
30bones sure. how did you decide on that one? I see the marshall 290 referenced alot but it seems like it may not be made anymore. the price is right on the camco one.
 
30bones sure. how did you decide on that one? I see the marshall 290 referenced alot but it seems like it may not be made anymore. the price is right on the camco one.
A member here recommended it to me when he taught be about low and high pressure propane.
 
30bones how do you like low pressure? Do you think it is the way to go even if you don't add a furnace valve (automate)?
 
I see no reason to go high pressure and I have no intentions on going more than 10 gallon batches. I have a regulator I could put off the boil kettle, but it's not needed even on 10 gallon batches. I also started using a 1500W heat stick in the HLT to heat strike water and to help get wort to boil. Mainly to save on propane.

It's nice to wake up in the morning, plug in the heat stick and go back to bed, grab coffee, breakfast, etc and get your stuff ready while the strike water heats up. It's a supplement to propane, not a replacement at that small wattage
 
I made my rig a bit taller, it's 31 inches on the low side. I put 5" casters on it because I wanted smooth rolling. The inlet to the pumps is +/- 10" off the ground which has proven to give me enough clearance for a no kink connection. I know you're targeting a much lower build but even at 31", and only being 5'11", I can still stir the mash flat footed.

Regarding the propane connections, I put together a small black pipe manifold so I could put the valves in a convenient location.



 
How does this look for venting the burner? That's 1/2" square stock. I'm concerned about the front venting off too much heat on my thermometer.

brnr.jpg
 
Test fired the burners. My setup is a marshall 2 stage regulator on the tank to 5 feet LP line, to a T, each side has a needle valve, that runs to the burner with 3/8" copper tubing. The burners have the stock orifices bored out to 3/32". When I give it any gas, the tank (or regulator?) groans/hums loudly. Any ideas what the problem could be?
 
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