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MeadWitch

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I have a friend who use to make hard cider but she always had to refrigerate her or they would explode. How do you keep the cider sparkling but no bottle bombs? I would like to try and make a batch, but don't want to ask her as she is sort of a know-it-all, even though I dont' think she is doing it right.
 
Hi MW. I use a keep-it-simple method:

1. combine apple juice, pectic enzyme (to clear), and dry ale yeast (like Nottingham) in a carboy, put on a stopper and airlock

2. keep on eye on it and start taking gravity readings after a few days - when the gravity is about 1.010 and the cider is at the sweet/dry balance that I want, its time to bottle

3. bottle like beer, with priming sugar (so the cider doesn't get any drier)

4. after a week or so, start checking the carbonation level by opening a bottle

5. when the carbonation is right, then i pastuerize the bottles by heating water in a large stock pot to 190 deg. F; set the bottles in the hot water and leave for about 10 minutes; this kills the yeast and stops any further fermention, carbonation and exploding bottles.

Others use chemicals to stop the fermentation, back-sweeten etc. Hope this helps! :mug:
 
It sounds pretty straight forward, but I don't know anything about beer. I only have made mead for the past decade. Can you bottle it a wee bit sweeter? And how much priming sugar per bottle do you use? Do you have a basic recipe with amounts that you could share? What about corking? I use only corks with my mead, is this acceptable or do I need to invest in a cripper and caps? I would like to make some for the holidays to give as gifts.

Thanks for any information you can share.
 
you could use corks with a still cider
or if you want a carbonated cider you could still use the champagne type corks and tie them down with the wire.

but getting a bottle crimper and caps would probably be easier.

be very careful about leaving too much residual sugar in the bottles though as adding more priming sugar would lead to quick bottle bombs
 
It sounds pretty straight forward, but I don't know anything about beer. I only have made mead for the past decade. Can you bottle it a wee bit sweeter? And how much priming sugar per bottle do you use? Do you have a basic recipe with amounts that you could share? What about corking? I use only corks with my mead, is this acceptable or do I need to invest in a cripper and caps? I would like to make some for the holidays to give as gifts.

Thanks for any information you can share.

I'll try to expand here - if I'm not answering your questions or am unclear, just let me know.

With the method I use, you can choose to bottle it as sweet or as dry as you want. For my tastes, 1.010 specific gravity is about right, but you can also be guided by your taste buds. I watch the fermentation pretty carefully for a few days, when it appears to be slowing down, i take a hydrometer reading and taste the sample. Depending on the outcome, I may do it again the next day or in a couple of days. It takes about a week for the cider to ferment to the level of dryness/sweetness I like, which is what I would call semi-dry.

Alternatively, you can let it ferment out completely dry, where the yeast eat all the sugars, and then back sweeten it with more juice. Folks who use that method then have to add another chemical to stop the fermentation (because the yeast will start up again, eating the sugar in the newly-added juice). Then they can keg it to get sparkling cider or bottle it as-is for still cider.

I really like sparkling cider, though, and because i generally brew with an eye to using organic ingredients, I like to use the pasteurization method rather than the chemically-induced method, if that makes any sense.

So, at this point you've got a carboy full of cider that has fermented to the point where it is as sweet/dry as you want it - but if you let it go, it would keep on fermenting. The next step is bottling.

I'm unfamiliar with how you bottle wine or mead, so i don't know what equipment you have. I use a bottling bucket with a spigot on it, attach a tube to the spigot with a bottling wand on the end of the tube. I don't think it really matters how you get the cider into the bottles though.

The bottles you use, though, are very important. You cannot use ordinary wine bottles for sparkling cider - they are made for still beverages, not carbonated and are not strong enough. You must use beer bottles or sparkling wine bottles. If you use beer bottles, you would need to get a handheld bottle capper (not very expensive) and caps (very cheap). But sparkling wine bottles with corks and wire are fine too.

With the method I use, we are carbonating in the bottle, so we need yeast and sugar to be present. There is still residual sugar left in the cider, but because I don't want the cider to get any drier than it already is, I add priming sugar - regular cane sugar from the grocery store is fine. The yeast will eat that up and leave the sugar from the juice, and the carbonated cider will have the same balance of dry/sweetness as when i tasted it prior to bottling.

Before bottling, for a 5 gallon batch, I boil 2/3 cup of white sugar in two cups of water. The boiling is to get it fully dissolved and sanitized. I let it cool to room temperature (you can put your pot in an ice bath to speed the process). Then I pour the priming solution into my bottling bucket and rack (via a siphoning tube) the cider into the bottling bucket, onto the priming sugar. I have no idea if i need to be as careful as I am about not oxidizing the cider - not splashing it around. With beer, you need to be careful about that at this point, but i'm not sure about cider.

In any case, i'm careful not splash it - i take the siphon tube and put it down into the priming sugar solution, so that the cider is flowing out and through the solution, not splashing. This also assures that the priming solution is thoroughly mixed into the cider.

Then I bottle and cap. I put the capped bottles in a relatively warm space, low to mid 70s if possible, to help the yeast get active.

After one week, I put a bottle in the fridge for a few hours and then open it, to check on the carbonation level. Assuming its under carbonated, I wait a few days and try another, until the carbonation seems right. If you use sparkling wine bottles, this method could be pretty wasteful - the bottles are so much bigger than beer bottles.

The risk here, as you noted in your OP, is exploding bottles. So when the carbonation is right, I then pasteurize the bottles in a hot water bath to kill the yeast. I use a large stock pot, with 190 F water - i put about six bottles in at a time and let them sit for ten minutes. I leave a floating thermometer in the water, so i can monitor the temperature and add heat if necessary, before putting in the next set of bottles. I use kitchen tongs to carefully put the bottles into the water bath and take them out.

Hope this is helpful, MW. You might look around the cider forum for the other method I mentioned - ferment dry, back sweeten and stop fermentation with chemicals (sulfites, maybe?) But for me, this pastuerization method fits my needs.
 
Here's a recipe version:

1. add 5 gallons of apple cider to a sanitzed carboy

2. add 3 teaspoons pectic enzyme to the cider

3. add one packet of dry ale yeast such as Nottingham

4. put on a stopper and airlock, or loosely cover with sanitized aluminum foil

5. let ferment for approximately 1 week or until the cider is at the balance of sweetness /dryness you desire; if you use a hydrometer, a reading of 1.010 will be semi-dry

6. prepare a priming solution of 2/3 cups white sugar boiled in 2 cups of water; cool to room temperature

7. add priming solution and cider to bottling bucket

8. bottle and cap, using bottles made for carbonated beverages such as beer or champagne bottles

9. allow bottles to conditioned and carbonate in an area at least 70 F

10. occasionally test bottles for carbonation process by opening one and tasting

11. when desired carbonation level is reached (but before bottles begin exploding), pasteurize the cider to kill the yeast and stop fermentation; prepare a hot water bath of 190 F water, carefully set the bottles in the bath for ten minutes and remove; repeat until all the bottles are pasteurized
 
Thanks Pappers! I am definitely give this a try. I can get all of the beer bottles I want where I work, so I might jsut invest in a capper and caps.

I can't use sulfites, as I have reactions to them. Headaches, flush faces, stuffed up so I can't breath. So I try to stay away from them as much as possible.
 
Just be sure that the bottles are not twist off bottles - you want regular bottles that you have to pop open. Do you work in a bar? I get all my bottles from a favorite bar - they don't even recycle, so they're happy to collect them for me.

I hear you about the sulfites - this is a more natural process, and you can use organic juice if you're so inclined, too.

Skaal! :tank:

Jim
 
I work in a hotel and I use to run the recycling program thru the Engineering dept but since I have been promoted up to Accounting, someone else is having to take over. We have a lounge with some pretty high scale clientele and they seem to drink quite a bit. :) All those empty bottles at my disposal!!

What does skaal mean?
 
Here's a recipe version:

11. when desired carbonation level is reached (but before bottles begin exploding), pasteurize the cider to kill the yeast and stop fermentation; prepare a hot water bath of 190 F water, carefully set the bottles in the bath for ten minutes and remove; repeat until all the bottles are pasteurized

I took my bottled and labeled cider to a going away party today. Everybody who tasted it really liked it, especially the guest of honor who is my intern from Germany. He said it was the best tasting hard cider he has ever had! He much preferred the carbonation in my cider than the still ciders they have in Europe. Everybody commented on how smooth it was going down and the lighest of the beverage. Thanks to you Pappers for walking me thru my first time. I really blew them away when they saw me walking up with them. I rocked and rolled! :ban:
 
Congratulations, MW! I had an event last night (a steak fry at my congregation) and brought a case of cider - like you, it was a big hit. And thanks for the thanks - I'm glad it worked out well for you.
 
Pappers, question for you. Do you use apple juice or apple cider starting out? Post #2 you say juice but post #6 you say cider.
 
Pappers, question for you. Do you use apple juice or apple cider starting out? Post #2 you say juice but post #6 you say cider.

For this recipe and style (light, sparkling, draft-style cider), I use store-bought apple product :) sometimes its labeled juice and sometimes its labeled cider. I can't tell the difference in the product other than that the 'cider' is a little darker than the 'juice'. I don't use, for this style, fresh-pressed cider.
 
For this recipe and style (light, sparkling, draft-style cider), I use store-bought apple product :) sometimes its labeled juice and sometimes its labeled cider. I can't tell the difference in the product other than that the 'cider' is a little darker than the 'juice'. I don't use, for this style, fresh-pressed cider.

Gotcha. So if I read you correctly, you're buying apple liquid that looks like this

apple-juice.jpg


rather than apple liquid that looks like

cider.jpg


Or do I have it backwards? Since you said "light" that leads me to believe you're using a more clear liquid like the first picture instead of an opaque one like the second.

Either way, I definitely am glad you posted your recipe. I've been looking for an cider recipe for a while now and yours looks like what I've been looking for :)
 
For this recipe and style (light, sparkling, draft-style cider), I use store-bought apple product :) sometimes its labeled juice and sometimes its labeled cider. I can't tell the difference in the product other than that the 'cider' is a little darker than the 'juice'. I don't use, for this style, fresh-pressed cider.

But would you make changes to the procedure for fresh-pressed fruit?
 
If you use fresh pressed juice or cider, then you may be concerned about the wild yeasts that are on the apples (and now the juice), so some people add campden a day before they add the pectic enzyme. The campden tamps down the wild yeast and keeps it from reproducing. Other people don't worry about it and just add a good portion of healthy yeast.

But the rest of the method and process is the same. Although there are many different ways to make cider, many different styles, this is just one.
 
I'll try to expand here - if I'm not answering your questions or am unclear, just let me know.

With the method I use, you can choose to bottle it as sweet or as dry as you want. For my tastes, 1.010 specific gravity is about right, but you can also be guided by your taste buds. I watch the fermentation pretty carefully for a few days, when it appears to be slowing down, i take a hydrometer reading and taste the sample. Depending on the outcome, I may do it again the next day or in a couple of days. It takes about a week for the cider to ferment to the level of dryness/sweetness I like, which is what I would call semi-dry.

Alternatively, you can let it ferment out completely dry, where the yeast eat all the sugars, and then back sweeten it with more juice. Folks who use that method then have to add another chemical to stop the fermentation (because the yeast will start up again, eating the sugar in the newly-added juice). Then they can keg it to get sparkling cider or bottle it as-is for still cider.

I really like sparkling cider, though, and because i generally brew with an eye to using organic ingredients, I like to use the pasteurization method rather than the chemically-induced method, if that makes any sense.

So, at this point you've got a carboy full of cider that has fermented to the point where it is as sweet/dry as you want it - but if you let it go, it would keep on fermenting. The next step is bottling.

I'm unfamiliar with how you bottle wine or mead, so i don't know what equipment you have. I use a bottling bucket with a spigot on it, attach a tube to the spigot with a bottling wand on the end of the tube. I don't think it really matters how you get the cider into the bottles though.

The bottles you use, though, are very important. You cannot use ordinary wine bottles for sparkling cider - they are made for still beverages, not carbonated and are not strong enough. You must use beer bottles or sparkling wine bottles. If you use beer bottles, you would need to get a handheld bottle capper (not very expensive) and caps (very cheap). But sparkling wine bottles with corks and wire are fine too.

With the method I use, we are carbonating in the bottle, so we need yeast and sugar to be present. There is still residual sugar left in the cider, but because I don't want the cider to get any drier than it already is, I add priming sugar - regular cane sugar from the grocery store is fine. The yeast will eat that up and leave the sugar from the juice, and the carbonated cider will have the same balance of dry/sweetness as when i tasted it prior to bottling.

Before bottling, for a 5 gallon batch, I boil 2/3 cup of white sugar in two cups of water. The boiling is to get it fully dissolved and sanitized. I let it cool to room temperature (you can put your pot in an ice bath to speed the process). Then I pour the priming solution into my bottling bucket and rack (via a siphoning tube) the cider into the bottling bucket, onto the priming sugar. I have no idea if i need to be as careful as I am about not oxidizing the cider - not splashing it around. With beer, you need to be careful about that at this point, but i'm not sure about cider.

In any case, i'm careful not splash it - i take the siphon tube and put it down into the priming sugar solution, so that the cider is flowing out and through the solution, not splashing. This also assures that the priming solution is thoroughly mixed into the cider.

Then I bottle and cap. I put the capped bottles in a relatively warm space, low to mid 70s if possible, to help the yeast get active.

After one week, I put a bottle in the fridge for a few hours and then open it, to check on the carbonation level. Assuming its under carbonated, I wait a few days and try another, until the carbonation seems right. If you use sparkling wine bottles, this method could be pretty wasteful - the bottles are so much bigger than beer bottles.

The risk here, as you noted in your OP, is exploding bottles. So when the carbonation is right, I then pasteurize the bottles in a hot water bath to kill the yeast. I use a large stock pot, with 190 F water - i put about six bottles in at a time and let them sit for ten minutes. I leave a floating thermometer in the water, so i can monitor the temperature and add heat if necessary, before putting in the next set of bottles. I use kitchen tongs to carefully put the bottles into the water bath and take them out.

Hope this is helpful, MW. You might look around the cider forum for the other method I mentioned - ferment dry, back sweeten and stop fermentation with chemicals (sulfites, maybe?) But for me, this pastuerization method fits my needs.

The Cider section needs a sticky and it should be this! :rockin:
 
If you use fresh pressed juice or cider, then you may be concerned about the wild yeasts that are on the apples (and now the juice), so some people add campden a day before they add the pectic enzyme. The campden tamps down the wild yeast and keeps it from reproducing. Other people don't worry about it and just add a good portion of healthy yeast.

But the rest of the method and process is the same. Although there are many different ways to make cider, many different styles, this is just one.

Won't clarifying the fresh pressed cider take a lot longer? Mine's been fermenting for 5 days now(and I treated with pectic enzyme) and shows no signs of clearing -- the color lightened quite a bit but it's still very cloudy.
 
It won't completely clear up until it's done fermenting. Once the yeast flocculate out it will be much clearer.
 
It won't completely clear up until it's done fermenting. Once the yeast flocculate out it will be much clearer.

Yeah, but the process here has you bottle before fermentation is complete(and add a little priming sugar) in order to bottle condition. Are you going to wind up with a really cloudy cider if you started with fresh pressed and did that?
 
Ashyg - what type of champagne yeast are you using? If its L1118, you can cold crash the cider to clear it up before bottling. L1118 is fairly impervious to cold crashing, it will keep on going, but the cider will be more clear. Same is true for S23 and Wy4184. The bottles will probably take longer to carbonate, but they will carb.
 
I had a batch of this cider using Pappers' directions. Turned out great, been a big hit with everyone who has tried it so far :)
 
How much stuff ends up on the bottom with the pectic enzyme and regular clear apple juice? Wonder if I can bottle straight from a ported better bottle or if I have to rack to a bottling bucket of sorts.
 
Guess I better get another carboy... thanks

After one week, I put a bottle in the fridge for a few hours and then open it, to check on the carbonation level. Assuming its under carbonated, I wait a few days and try another, until the carbonation seems right. If you use sparkling wine bottles, this method could be pretty wasteful - the bottles are so much bigger than beer bottles.

Could you elaborate on that a bit? Why exactly is this wasteful to use a larger bottle? I was going to use 20/30oz sized swing-top bottles instead of beer bottles if I could get away with it - didn't exactly want to have a million beer bottles to go through.

And last question: anyone know a good conversion for the priming sugar amounts and instead using apple juice concentrate?
 
Could you elaborate on that a bit? Why exactly is this wasteful to use a larger bottle?

MeadWitch is a mazer, so she didn't have beer bottles around. I was just saying that opening one beer bottle and finding it undercarbed meant 'wasting' less cider than opening a sparkling wine bottled and finding it undercarbed. Its not really wasteful, I know.
 
Read in a couple places of people using plastic 20oz (sanitized) bottles as their tester for carbonation. You don't even have to open the bottle, just give it a good squeeze to see how strong the carbonation is.
 
Mead Witch/Pappers - Sulfites are naturally occurring and apple's (and cider) on its own has sulfites. All wine has sulfites. So they are natural. Sulfites have been used safely in wines and ciders since the greek and roman times.

I understand your choice to limit them, as I do as well (to reasonable safe levels). But many a serious cider maker would scoff at the thought of not using them at all. If you want to make french traditional ciders without adding them, then go for it (but there will still be some "natural" sulfites present).

That said, addressing sulfite levels is a science and one that few seem to understand well. Since they are 1. PH dependent and 2. only the free SO2 is protecting the wine/cider and not the bound, they become slightly more confusing. However, putting yourself on a basic sulfiting schedule will often be "good enough" to protect your cider/wine. When done sulphite levels are undetectable.

There is nothing "natural" about pasterizing (you are cooking it up to 190F, when does this happen in nature?). It often alters the flavor, though maybe not enough for the end user to be concerned.

If you do use sulfites only use potassium metabisulfite and not sodium metabisulfite (in my humble opinion). k-meta (potassium metabisulfite) is more natural composition, chemically, with sodium metabisulfite having a chemical composition that is darn near industrial cleaner.

If you truly have sulphite sensitivity, I would reccomend your avoid dried fruits (concetrated sulphites) and wines and cider all together. Sulphite sensitivy is extremely rare, so perhaps there is something else that is causing your symptoms (let's hope).

Just some food for thought. I get that people want to be "natural" and "organic". But just because intuitively it makes good sense, don't make it so.... Responsible sulphite additions in wines are practical and perfectly safe. Alcohol... that is another story :)
 
Ashyg - The must will clear without pectic enzyme but the fermentation must stop first. The must can take some time to clear on its own, but it will.

If you heat must sometimes it activates the pectin and the cider is then forever cloudy.

So if you follow pappers instructions using a fresh pressed cider instead of store bought juice you may run into cloudy issues (since you won't be waiting the 2-3 weeks or so to let it clear naturally). Any experience with that pappers? Ever make this with fresh pressed cider? I prefer cloudy cider in many instances, looks and feels authentic - but that is me.
 
Just some food for thought. I get that people want to be "natural" and "organic". But just because intuitively it makes good sense, don't make it so.... Responsible sulphite additions in wines are practical and perfectly safe. Alcohol... that is another story :)

Yup, sulphite additions are common, I have no problem with people choosing to use them. People get to make choices.

Its curious to me why people often get up in arms when someone (me) chooses not to use additional sulphites, or to use organic malts and hops, or anything else that they see as 'green'. Feel free to use the additions - I certainly do when I adjust my brew water, for example. But, to say that not using additives doesn't make good sense is misguided, in my opinion.

No one's telling you not to use additives - thanks for not telling me that I must.
 
So if you follow pappers instructions using a fresh pressed cider instead of store bought juice you may run into cloudy issues (since you won't be waiting the 2-3 weeks or so to let it clear naturally). Any experience with that pappers? Ever make this with fresh pressed cider? I prefer cloudy cider in many instances, looks and feels authentic - but that is me.

For the type of cider referred to in Meadwitch's thread - draft style light sparkling bottle-conditioned cider - I use store bought juice and stove-top pasteurize it. I do use fresh-pressed juice to make other sorts of cider - more complex, layered, and still. So no, I don't pasteurize that type of cider.
 
Yup, sulphite additions are common, I have no problem with people choosing to use them. People get to make choices.

Its curious to me why people often get up in arms when someone (me) chooses not to use additional sulphites, or to use organic malts and hops, or anything else that they see as 'green'. Feel free to use the additions - I certainly do when I adjust my brew water, for example. But, to say that not using additives doesn't make good sense is misguided, in my opinion.

No one's telling you not to use additives - thanks for not telling me that I must.

I choose not to use sulphites because it makes it hard for me breathe, if it didn't do that to me, I might use it certain types of cider.
 
Sigma chemicals rates soduim metabisulfite as 'Harmful' and potassium metabisulfite as merely 'Irritant'. (The only warning for ethanol is 'Flammable' so drink up.)
My (limited) understanding is that the sulfite ions are the guys doing the heavy lifting in hindering bacteria etc., and the two parent compounds yield the same amount of sulfite ions per mole. so why would one (K) be preferred by many over the other (Na) and which one is in my campden powder (which remains unopened in my drawer)?
And with Na2S2O5 how much Na is released via SO2?? i gather there is no equivalent KO2 as this is a solid... out of my depth here
I don't particularly want to use the stuff but if i do i would like to know what i'm doing.
but for those of us who just put cider in a jug and wait for it to ferment, rack, wait, bottle, wait, drink, things seem to go perfectly well without sulfites. so i will continue on as a luddite. Very interesting thread though.
And meadwitch- do you get sulfite intolerance from wines? i hope not for your sake!
and how do you get by without sulfite-laden slim jims? (other disgusting processed meat products are available)
 
Dinnerstick - your sigma chemical rating is precisely why I said, if you are going to use sulphites use k-meta only and not Na-meta. There are some great scientific papers on sulphite usage too - which is why I went so nuts researching it prior to using. There are also common sense ways to tell if you over sulphited (smell is one of them). Depending on your apples sulphites may be needed. If you are buying store bought juice and pay attention to limit O2 when you rack your will probably be ok much of the time without sulphiting. Additionally, if you innoculate with yeast Asap with fresh cider the strain you use will likely beat out the aceteo yeasts that make cider taste vinegary if left unchecked. If you are in control of your apples you can control or remove sulphites, if you buy apples for most of your cider (like i did this year) then you probably should sulfite on some level becuase you don't know the history of the apples (contact with deer, or other animal feces). I didn't by drops, so that shouldn't have been an issue, but I digress...

Pappers - no offense meant to you or meadwitch. I am certainly not telling you guys to use sulfites. I do most things I can organic, I grow my own food, etc. and make responsible decisions about the food I do buy and do eat. My wife and I do more "organic" than most. We can our crops, we have a root cellar, we simply don't waste anything because we respect our food and where it comes from. Guess I have some latent issue about all the people in NYC who bragged about eating an organic carrot like it was some cool fad to be a part of instead of seeing being organic as a lifestyle choice. So sorry if I came across wrong :) - a thousand apologies.

All that said, for my "estate" (ha) apples I was able to sulphite less, but still wanted to use most of the fruit witch was riddled with imperfections and possibly a worm or two here and there. So for my Northern spy trees that I controlled I used less sulphite.

Don't get me wrong I would love to remove sulphite period. My sole point was that it is safe when used responsibly. As dinnerstick pointed out it is in all kinds of foods and if you don't get reactions from slim jims, dried fruits etc., it might not me sulphites that bother you. They are a widely used preservative.

My comment about alcohol was a tongue and cheek. Would I have about 98 gallons of cider varieties working if I was concerned about the effects of alcohol? haha everything in moderation? Not with cider! This year the motto was go big or go home :)
 
I choose not to use sulphites because it makes it hard for me breathe, if it didn't do that to me, I might use it certain types of cider.

MeadWitch - do you mean when you open a container of it and it makes you sort of lose your breathe? I noticed this too when I bought a larger bag of K-Meta. The reason why is that k-meta absorbed oxygen readily - which is why it is useful in preventing oxidation and bacterial growth in wines. Always use in a well ventilated area. This might be part of the reason why is is classed as an irritant. If there is kmeta dust coming up out of the bag and you inhale....
 
my girlfriend has a sulfite intolerance, i've seen it, she has heart palpitations and gets flushed and breathless (insert self-deprecating sexual innuendo here), and it ain't pretty, scary actually... but never from italian wines, no clue why that is. and mostly from southern hemisphere wines. maybe it pours out the jar counter-clockwise down there
 
my girlfriend has a sulfite intolerance, i've seen it, she has heart palpitations and gets flushed and breathless (insert self-deprecating sexual innuendo here), and it ain't pretty, scary actually... but never from italian wines, no clue why that is. and mostly from southern hemisphere wines. maybe it pours out the jar counter-clockwise down there

funny stuff man! Well the innuendo anyway! Not cool that she has the intollerance to it. It might be sheer concentration of the sulfites (different producers use different amounts; whites have more sulfites than reds traditionally). I have always heard of sulphite ailments referred to as "sensitivities". So perhaps she isn't reaching the sulphite threshold to bother her. I know dried fruits have a lot of sulfites too. In fact, when I grabbed a bag of raisins to make a New England style cider the ingredients listed sulphites. I was surprised.

Drink the wine that tastes good :)
 
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