why are flanged receptacles the most expensive piece of build!!

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Mirilis

Mirilis

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The locking plugs are a "bell and whistle" of a build. Any type of plug/outlet setup will work as long as it will handle the needed volts and amps.
 
The price is easy to explain. The only major application for those types of outlets is industrial, where money is not as much of an issue, compared to safety and following standards.

If you go with something cheaper, I'd be liberal with the caulk. Or even some other potting compound, such as RTV.
 
Just don't use them. Hard wire the box. Unless you are a person that moves a lot so your rig needs to be ultra portable. Kal uses them because he ships his boxes to customers and they're easier to ship without wires sticking out of them.

I wish I hadn't wasted all of that time and money making disconnects for stuff that very rarely gets disconnected. Next control panel I build, I won't make that mistake.
 
You need to make sure that you do not have any cords with live male plugs, meaning that you absolutely should not put one of those standard outlets as your inlet receptacle for your control panel. Either create a short pigtail out of the control panel with a male plug as your inlet, or dispense with an inlet altogether and hard wire the input power line.
 
one word...."switchcraft" I use these connectors on my build and saved quite a bit since they are only about $4 and are UL listed and rated for 30A others here use them with great success and so far the only negative comment I found on them were from those with no first hand experience...
 
augiedoggy said:
one word...."switchcraft" I use these connectors on my build and saved quite a bit since they are only about $4 and are UL listed and rated for 30A others here use them with great success and so far the only negative comment I found on them were from those with no first hand experience...
Click to expand...

I have first hand experience with the Switchcraft speaker plugs, and I think they are not suitable for this purpose.

NEMA rated plugs and receptacles all the way. Straight blade is fine for most purposes. Use your common sense. My welders came with straight blade 6-50 plugs on.

The retail prices can be ridiculous for twist lock. Buy used.

Hardwiring is fine until you have to fix something in a freezing cold garage.
 
alien said:
I have first hand experience with the Switchcraft speaker plugs, and I think they are not suitable for this purpose.

NEMA rated plugs and receptacles all the way. Straight blade is fine for most purposes. Use your common sense. My welders came with straight blade 6-50 plugs on.

The retail prices can be ridiculous for twist lock. Buy used.

Hardwiring is fine until you have to fix something in a freezing cold garage.
Click to expand...
OK?... May I ask why exactly? They work great and dont change temp at all indicating they pass the current safely? and they are rated for the application... They are much more compact and space saving and less liky to be damaged since no exposed pins? the element drw 18.25 and 23amps respectively not 50amps... I dont use them for my main 30A line since its hardwired but I could.. and these arent welders being moved and knocked around in a garage so im not sure if thats a fair comparison..
 
Here is the cheapest 30A flanged inlet that I could find ($24.99). They don't carry it in store but you can have it shipped to your nearest homedepot for free. I personally used the splash proof cover on my build but you do not have to. It comes in several pieces and the inlet part can be mounted by itlself similar to kal's build. The metal backing piece and cover are seperate. This would also require a much smaller hole to be made if the cover is not used.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Reliance-Controls-30-Amp-Power-Inlet-Kit-PK30/202216490#
 
@augiedoggy I've gone into it in detail on another thread so I'm not going to rehash it here. You have my permission to use them on your own equipment if that's what you want to do.
 
OK... well it would suite this thread since its basically about an inexpensive alternative to the overpriced universal standard appliance connectors.
I didn't realize there would be so much to "rehash" about an outlet and plug. All I asked for was a good reason why they are a bad choice for this application?
 
LandoLincoln said:
Kal uses them because he ships his boxes to customers and they're easier to ship without wires sticking out of them.
Click to expand...
No, I went with removable locking connectors because that's what I wanted for my own setup for ease of use/convenience/etc. I designed the setup for myself, not for resale. That came many years later and was never a consideration in the original design.

Yes, they are more expensive than directly wiring of course because you need two connectors (male/female).

I rarely disconnect mine as well, but if I had to do all again, I'd still do it the same way with locking plugs/recetacles.

Kal
 
alien said:
@augiedoggy I've gone into it in detail on another thread so I'm not going to rehash it here. You have my permission to use them on your own equipment if that's what you want to do.
Click to expand...
oK so I searched through the switchcraft threads and the only explanation I found that you posted why they were not a good Idea was that you think they are just speaker connectors and using them for power is a "Hack"....well just about every diy build on here is arguably a "hack" no? I mean using a watertank heating element for making beer is just as much a "hack" right??
I try to be professional and stick to the facts and only get answers like the one above where you give me permission to use them?
really? I'm guessing your an another electrical engineer since this forum appears to be full of them?

If it meets code and the safety standard its not a hack even if there are other options out there...
I also found this more useful and practical post...here

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/switchcrafts-plug-outlet-option-369044/

"We beat this around quite a bit in the https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/show-us-your-element-housings-pots-how-did-you-do-212079/ thread. Runs4beer did get this answer directly from Switchcraft: "The connectors are rated for 50 A (for the Fast-on terminal type) and 1500 VAC rms. There should be no problem with the customer's application."

Here's what I posted in the other thread:

Switchcraft certainly stands behind using the HPC (High Power Connector) series for this type of use. In addition to the email cited above, from the product sheet:

Markets
• Loudspeakers
• Power audio amplifiers
• Medical
• Process Controls

From the specs:

High Power Connector, 30 A Current Rating, Silver-Plated over Copper Alloy Contact Material
30 A Rating Per UL 1977 on PC Mount Versions
50 A Rating Per UL 1977 on Faston® Versions
1500 VAC (RMS)

I am still a bit leery of power inlets and outlets with the same configuration, but I might consider using the panel mounts as an inlet to the control panel and an inlet to the element. With a NEMA 14-30 plug on the other end of the control panel power cord, and a NEMA 6-30 plug on the other end of the element power cord, even I could not screw that up.

Edit: I could also use it as an inlet to a spa panel with another 14-30 plug on the other end"

I will repeat and rephrase my statement... I have yet to find anybody that has used these connectors in an application such as this who has had any real issues with them.... Just a whole lot of skeptisim from those that think they are too small or too cheap or "not heavy duty enough because you cant run them over with a truck"...(WTF?) I only unplug mine to drag my kettle to the sink for cleaning and I have had no issues thus far.
but heres the disclaimer..
YMMV (especially if you want to do a lot of yanking on the cables or "run them over with a truck")

As a budget friend option goes, These fit the bill and do it safetly If you want fancy and more expensive options or you have access to twist lock connectors and have the space on your panel then great!
 
alien said:
My opinions on this subject are posted elsewhere.
Click to expand...

Thanks, Thats a helpful explanation to the folks in reading this thread.

Theres nothing wrong with an opinion but it doesn't hold much weight when you have no explanation or experience to base it on.
You've done more here to prove my point than your own.
 
alien said:
Search is top left last time I looked :)
Click to expand...

yup...I used it this morning and thats were I found the other quotes along with many positive comments from those using it as well as your comments but I found no actual reason in your comments... Maybe they just give you the willys or you feel they have bad mojo or something?

In anycase this is petty at this point so I will let it rest.
 
I've used the switchcraft connectors for their intended purpose in pro audio setups (I designed and ran a large 70v array system for high end polo matches) where a female cord connector was put every 100' on a two 600' runs of wire. In the 5 years I ran that system twice a year, every one of those damned connectors failed at least once. The interior contacts are such thin material that if you're not careful, you can bend them out of place during insertion. I'm not suggesting that they can't work in this application, but I don't have a high opinion of them. When you compare them to the similar Neutrik connectors, you easily see where the extra cost comes from.

I don't know if there would really be any safety concerns if you have well designed over-current protection and GFCI but who knows.
 
Being in the military and having to use those cable connections. The only problem I have wither is there are a lot of threads (read PITA for quick on/off). That being said they are pretty much unbreakable and will meet your power requirements.

The only thing I could recommend if you are looking for something similar but quicker disconnect would be if you can find ones of the same design but "cannon twist lock".

http://www.peigenesis.com/en/itt-cannon-connectors.html
 
EODtony said:
Being in the military and having to use those cable connections. The only problem I have wither is there are a lot of threads (read PITA for quick on/off). That being said they are pretty much unbreakable and will meet your power requirements.

The only thing I could recommend if you are looking for something similar but quicker disconnect would be if you can find ones of the same design but "cannon twist lock".

http://www.peigenesis.com/en/itt-cannon-connectors.html
Click to expand...
not easy to wire up either...one of the UV flat bed printers my employer manufatuers and I service uses them they work well but like mentioned are a pain to screw on and off.
 
I'm sure they are a good option. These are sold as "Commando plugs" in the UK and are the standard for 16A and up. The yellow ones are universal on construction sites for powering 110V equipment.
 
alien said:
Are there any other kind?
Click to expand...

That's a good point. I mean, the guy who owned the farm put something like 20 grand just into premium grass seed for the field. Tent sponsorships started at 10 grand. All the more reason why I should have talked him into the Neutrik connectors rather than the micky mouse switchcrafts.
 
I am fairly certain that any buzkashi event is one of the highlights of the social calendar, except for goats.
 
If you nerds are done being nerds I'd just like to mention I just picked up a female L14-30 connector from ebay for $9.00 with free shipping. Sure it's a china copy but it looks great. Just gotta keep your eyes open.
 
Bsquared said:
I got my flanged outlets from Fruit ridge tools ebay store. They have good prices, and I was able to buy all of them at once and save on shipping.
Click to expand...
I did the same with my panel build. They sell a lot of NOS stuff ("new-old-stock", meaning stuff that's still new in the box but has been sitting around for some time, often overstock stuff from projects that never got used).

They didn't have 30A/240V locking receptacles and plugs available at the time so I got 30A/600V ones instead. You can always use a plug or connector rated higher in voltage or current than required.

Kal
 
I just picked up a Leviton CS6375 locking inlet...how do I make sure to get a compatible female plug? The Leviton CS6364C will work but what about other brands? I'm seeing a lot of Marinco on Amazon/ebay.
 
summerofgeorge said:
I just picked up a Leviton CS6375 locking inlet...how do I make sure to get a compatible female plug? The Leviton CS6364C will work but what about other brands? I'm seeing a lot of Marinco on Amazon/ebay.
Click to expand...

Look for the NEMA style 'L8-20R', 'L20-30R' or similar and find a plug 'L8-20P', 'L20-30P' that matches. The 'L' means locking and the 'R' or 'P' means receptacle or plug.
 
summerofgeorge said:
I just picked up a Leviton CS6375 locking inlet...how do I make sure to get a compatible female plug? The Leviton CS6364C will work but what about other brands? I'm seeing a lot of Marinco on Amazon/ebay.
Click to expand...

Yeah CS6364C is what you want. Marinco is usually the cheapest, it is compatible with the other brands.
 

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