Planning my E-BIAB control

Thanks for the help so far.

I confess that I'm doing this research a little early. I've only done 2 brews thus far: NB's Nut Brown Ale (extract + specialty grain) and NB's American Wheat (extract only). I have two more extract + specialty grain kits to brew before I move to all-grain. I've decided to do BIAB; I've already spent a lot of time reading thru the BIABrewer forum. In fact, it was thughes's E-BIAB build on that site that convinced me to do this myself. He referred me to the HBT forum. His HBT thread is:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/single-vessel-biab-electric-build-275238/

I plan to follow Todd's build pretty closely using a single-kettle BIAB with a pump recirculation to help maintain mash temps.
1 220/240V heating element
1 pump for recirculating from the bottom of the kettle back to the top
1 temp probe in the kettle
I will likely use a Spa Panel for GFCI protection.

Todd did not post a schematic for his build, but said that he followed principle he gleaned from Kal's site with much help from HBT forum and, especially, P-J. The two schematics I've found that appear to be the closest to what I would need are voltin's and johnodon's. These are very similar, but not identical to each other.

Link to johnodon's schematic:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/my-official-e-biab-build-thread-269164/#post3263178

Link to voltin's build
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/yet-another-ebiab-build-282235/

Voltin's control panel controls are closer to what I want, but I'm having a little difficulty understanding some of his schematic. As in my other posts, questions come first:

1. Power switches for "Main", "PID" or having both.

Voltin includes a "Main Power" button. If this is "OFF" the entire system is off. There is no current at the element - even if the "Element" switch is ON. The pump will not operate, either.

Johnodon doesn't have a "Main Power", but has a "PID" button as do several other builders. This appears to cut power to the PID, but the control box is still hot. With the johnodon's PID switch OFF, he can still operate his pump. Even with the PID switch OFF, there is still a hot leg at the element if he forgets to turn OFF his "Element" switch. At least on a 3-vessel system, I can see why one might want to turn off the PID and the Element while being able to use the pump(s) during clean-up (flushing all the tubes with clear water, etc.).

I'm leaning towards having switches for "Main", "Element", and "Pump" as Voltin. Is there a particular advantage to having a switch to turn ON/OFF the PID?

2. Alarm: It appears that folks tend to have a (1) buzzer for the alarm, (2) a switch to turn ON/OFF the alarm, and (3) a light to indicate that the alarm circuit has been activated. I'm assuming that the alarm is wired to the PID to signal that the desired temp has been reached. IOW, is the parameter for the alarm set in thru the PID? Does one also turn the alarm ON/OFF from the PID itself? Is there any problem with the PID trying to announce an alarm, yet the Alarm switch on the panel is OFF, so essentially, there's no alarm going off?

3. I guess I should have one of those big EPO buttons on top - whichever kind is best.

4. Depending upon your recommendations regarding my question about having a choice of either PID and PWM control in the same box, the necessary circuit will need to be included such as the DC power source and the selector switch, and the PWM itself. If this would be a good solution, then my panel controls would be, MAIN POWER, ELEMENT, ALARM, Alarm light/buzzer, PUMP, PID/PWM Selector, PWM Pot, PID, and EPO. If the PWM is not appropriate, then its controls would be omitted.

5. I imagine that I would use a SSR to control one leg of the element circuit followed by a contactor after the SSR that will interrupt BOTH legs. I'm assuming that this contactor is activated by the "Element" switch. If this switch is OPEN, then no current reaches the element thru either leg regardless of the state of the PID.

6. One 120V circuit for a pump.

7. I tho't about including a timer with its alarm in the box. I saw that someone had that idea but later removed it. A timer is probably not necessary enough to be worth the trouble.

8. Although I like the look of the lighted pushbuttons, I think I would be perfectly happy with either toggle switches or rotating switches with separate indicator lights to indicate that they're on - other than simply seeing the position of the switch.

9. Any "control" item that I'm missing?

The enclosures that use the DIN mounted components look cool, but I imagine that they cost more. I like the approach that uses the contact strips and busses where needed.

So, it appears that, if the PWM circuit is not recommended, a schematic somewhere between voltin's and johnodon's is what I would need.

Thanks for your help,
Keith

kzimmer0817 said:

Thanks for the help so far.

1. Power switches for "Main", "PID" or having both.

Voltin includes a "Main Power" button. If this is "OFF" the entire system is off. There is no current at the element - even if the "Element" switch is ON. The pump will not operate, either.

Johnodon doesn't have a "Main Power", but has a "PID" button as do several other builders. This appears to cut power to the PID, but the control box is still hot. With the johnodon's PID switch OFF, he can still operate his pump. Even with the PID switch OFF, there is still a hot leg at the element if he forgets to turn OFF his "Element" switch. At least on a 3-vessel system, I can see why one might want to turn off the PID and the Element while being able to use the pump(s) during clean-up (flushing all the tubes with clear water, etc.).

I'm leaning towards having switches for "Main", "Element", and "Pump" as Voltin. Is there a particular advantage to having a switch to turn ON/OFF the PID?

Click to expand...

I don't really think either has a particular advantage. It is just personal preference. I would say the one thing you really should have is a way... however you prefer... to ensure that you don't dry fire the element.

kzimmer0817 said:

2. Alarm: It appears that folks tend to have a (1) buzzer for the alarm, (2) a switch to turn ON/OFF the alarm, and (3) a light to indicate that the alarm circuit has been activated. I'm assuming that the alarm is wired to the PID to signal that the desired temp has been reached. IOW, is the parameter for the alarm set in thru the PID? Does one also turn the alarm ON/OFF from the PID itself? Is there any problem with the PID trying to announce an alarm, yet the Alarm switch on the panel is OFF, so essentially, there's no alarm going off?

Click to expand...

Alarm is set in the PID. Most of the time you "unset" the alarm by lowering or raising the temperature to the other side of the alarm. E.g. if the high alarm is 200, the alarm will sound whenever the temperature is above that. A lot of guys use it as a "boil" marker... so they set it for 212 and then when the alarm is sounding it is boiling. To shutoff the alarm without having to muck with PID settings they add the switch. It doesn't matter the PID is "alarming"... it is just a note to yourself for whatever value you have.

kzimmer0817 said:

3. I guess I should have one of those big EPO buttons on top - whichever kind is best.

Click to expand...

Personal preference...

kzimmer0817 said:

4. Depending upon your recommendations regarding my question about having a choice of either PID and PWM control in the same box, the necessary circuit will need to be included such as the DC power source and the selector switch, and the PWM itself. If this would be a good solution, then my panel controls would be, MAIN POWER, ELEMENT, ALARM, Alarm light/buzzer, PUMP, PID/PWM Selector, PWM Pot, PID, and EPO. If the PWM is not appropriate, then its controls would be omitted.

Click to expand...

I personally just don't really see the need for both. What is the upside to PWM when you have a PID? A lot of PIDs can be switched into a manual mode which operates just like a PWM anyways (e.g. set the value between 0% and 100% of time). What is the goal for the PWM if you have the PID?

kzimmer0817 said:

5. I imagine that I would use a SSR to control one leg of the element circuit followed by a contactor after the SSR that will interrupt BOTH legs. I'm assuming that this contactor is activated by the "Element" switch. If this switch is OPEN, then no current reaches the element thru either leg regardless of the state of the PID.

Click to expand...

Yes. The contactor is the "safety". SSRs are funny any don't truly disconnect the power. So people use a contactor to completely disconnect the power. If you tried to use the contactor in place of the SSR though you would destroy it.

kzimmer0817 said:

6. One 120V circuit for a pump.

Click to expand...

If you run off of 4 wire 240V you have easy access to 120V in the panel.

kzimmer0817 said:

7. I tho't about including a timer with its alarm in the box. I saw that someone had that idea but later removed it. A timer is probably not necessary enough to be worth the trouble.

Click to expand...

If you want a timer what I would do is tie it in to the contactor. So in series have the timer and the element switch as the coil current to the contactor. When the timer is up, it cuts the coil current. Is it necessary?... depends how far away from your mash/boil you are.

kzimmer0817 said:

8. Although I like the look of the lighted pushbuttons, I think I would be perfectly happy with either toggle switches or rotating switches with separate indicator lights to indicate that they're on - other than simply seeing the position of the switch.

Click to expand...

Personal preference again. Anything would work as long as it meets the voltage/current requirements.

kzimmer0817 said:

9. Any "control" item that I'm missing?

The enclosures that use the DIN mounted components look cool, but I imagine that they cost more. I like the approach that uses the contact strips and busses where needed.

So, it appears that, if the PWM circuit is not recommended, a schematic somewhere between voltin's and johnodon's is what I would need.

Thanks for your help,
Keith

Click to expand...

I don't really think your missing much. I would suggest drawing a diagram just so you really understand what is being wire to what. Plus it makes it easier for us to help make sure you have the right idea and troubleshoot if need be.

EFaden said:

I would suggest drawing a diagram just so you really understand what is being wire to what. Plus it makes it easier for us to help make sure you have the right idea and troubleshoot if need be.

Click to expand...

Eric, (glad to have a name instead of only a screen name)

I've received several suggestions for drawing software. I think I'll take a piece of graph paper and draw my idea out by hand. That might be easier for me than trying to learn a piece of software. Then I can scan it and attach the image to a post to the forum.

Since I won't be able to do what I had planned on doing this Saturday, perhaps I'll get it drawn then.

Thanks,
Keith

Brewers,

It has taken me several hours to get this down on paper using Microsoft Word. I used a few single-vessel builds drawn by P-J for my ideas. I'll post my idea for the physical layout in another post.


1. Main Power - turns off current to all components in the controller.
2. EPO - Emergency Power Off as P-J has suggested which creates a faux ground fault to trip the GFCI.
3. Lighted Element Switch - turns ON/OFF current to the element
4. Lighted Alarm Button with Lighted Buzzer
5. Lighted Pump Switch
6. Lighted Auxiliary Switch (not sure what for yet).
I chose to have a Main Power instead of a PID Power switch. Not sure why.

DANG! It won't let me upload the pdf file I made.

Sorry, I was so much looking forward to getting some help. I saved it as a pdf document, but it's over the max size to upload. Any suggestions for how I can show my work so that I can get suggestions?

Thanks,
Keith

Thanks,
Keith

Brewers,

Thanks again, P-J, for offering to post my schematic for me. I e-mailed it to Todd who turned it into a png file, so I was able to upload it to my "gallery".

On the "preview" of my message, it doesn't show up, so I'm also including it as an attachment just in case.



Sorry about the duplication.

I look forward to your input. Thanks,
Keith

Keith,

It is now a full scale jpg file... Right click it to save in on your system.
Hope this helps.
Here you go.

Thank you, P-J,

I tho't the schematic was "pretty", although it might not be exactly correct. I took bits of it from Voltin, Johnodon, and a couple others.

1. I already see what might be a little redundancy in the "Main Power" switch. I took that from Voltin's build below:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/yet-another-ebiab-build-282235/

My understanding of one purpose of a relay or contactor was to use a lower voltage to switch a much higher one. I notice that his and, therefore, my MAIN switch switches BOTH hot lines of the 220V.

Is there any reason to use all 220v to switch a 220v contactor? Wouldn't one either (1) simply use a 220v DPST lighted switch or (2) a 110v SPST lighted switch to allow one leg of the 220v line switch the coil of the contactor which will then switch BOTH legs of the 220v line?

IOW, if one was going to use a contactor in the MAIN POWER switch, wouldn't you do it just as he does his Element Power switch?

2. I notice that many people have a PID Power switch instead of a Main Power. Perhaps it's a matter of preference. Even though one should not "open" the control box with ANY power going to the box, I can't help but wonder if it might be preferable to have all current "stop" at a switch before it's allowed to progress to any other component in the box.

3. I've read about the EPO switch. I'm understanding that, in P-J's EPO concept, you cannot use the big knob that clicks into place and must be reset. This application is for a "momentary" contact only as once it's shunted a little current down the "ground" its job is done. I'm assuming that the other kind of switch is a large NC multi-pole switch that "locks open" when you smash the big red mushroom and has to be manipulated to get it back up.

4. I hope to use this project box:

Box for 1/16 DIN controller [Pbox16] - $28.67 : auberins.com, Temperature control solutions for home and industry

If I'm sure that my control box will be wall-mounted, I like the one Voltin used.

5. I can't decide between the lighted pushbuttons or the lighted knobs:

6. I'm hoping that the dimensions of the box will allow me to (1) mount the MAIN, ALARM, ELEMENT, PUMP, and AUX buttons along with the blinking buzzer and the EPO on the front panel (2) attach the SSR inside the top with the heat sink mounted on top, and (3) hardwired main power cord, 220v element outlet, 2 x 110v pump outlets, temp probe jack, and the fuses on the back panel.

I do like the look of Todd's with the big EPO button on top, but, with his heat sink on the back, he cannot fit outlets on his rear panel, so he uses dongles.

Thanks,
Keith

Keith,

Your diagram is just fine the way it is. You could eliminate the master power switch & contactor as everything else is switched (except the PID - but - a cheap switch would fix that as well). Keep in mind that the only way for anyone to get into that (auberin) panel is to remove screws. Not easy - like opening a door. I believe the whole rig will fit in the project box with a little careful planning.

Wishng you the best.

P-J

P-J said:

Keith,

Your diagram is just fine the way it is. You could eliminate the master power switch & contactor as everything else is switched (except the PID - but - a cheap switch would fix that as well). Keep in mind that the only way for anyone to get into that (auberin) panel is to remove screws. Not easy - like opening a door. I believe the whole rig will fit in the project box with a little careful planning.

Wishng you the best.

P-J

Click to expand...

P-J, gee, I could let this really go to my head. You mean you're not going to get out your red pencil and circle things that need to be corrected in my diagram?

I can appreciate what you say about the only way you're going to be in danger of shock touching anything inside the box is to have taking loose several screws and opened the box. Surely, one would unplug it before doing that. OTOH, I had the face plate completely off my home breaker panel, snapped in 4 new breakers, and reattached the outer panel without ever turning off the MAIN - the two large copper busses staring right at me!!!

We should all be glad that God protects fools (at least, some of them).

Thanks,
Keith

I'm editing this because I could not get the images to be included.

Thank you, P-J, for posting the schematic I sent you. I downloaded TinyCAD, and made some figures, so I hope to a more "official" version of it.

Todd rightly asked me when I was going to quit researching stuff and start building/brewing. Like my grandmother used to say, "time to go or get off the pot." That wasn't exactly how she said it, but close.

Before I start ordering stuff I'd like to nail down a few "givens". Since this will be single-vessel BIAB, I don't need a lot of controls. I'm thinking that I will need to place the following on my panel:

1. Either "Main Power" as some have used or the "PID Power" as others.
2. Element switch
3. Pump switch
4. Aux switch (for something else, maybe)
5. Alarm ON/OFF
6. Place for blinking alarm
7. Place for PID
8. EPO button - either on front panel or on top.

Insofar as switches are concerned, I'm leaning toward the lighted knobs, although I'm not dead set against the lighted pushbuttons or, even, the toggle switches with indicator lights where needed.

I will probably install the SSR with it heat sink on the top near the rear. It's possible that I might even put the EPO on the top near the front if it won't fit on the front.

At the moment I'm trying to decide on the actual box. I need to know if I can fit what I want on the front of the Auberins Project Box.

I can see how a box like the one Voltin used would be great if I mount it on a wall (hope the photo appears).

***couldn't get image to appear. See attachment*****

Heretofore, I've been leaning towards the Auberins box. The only ones who have included a close up shot of the front panel have been Johnodon:

***couldn't get image. See attachment***

and Jsguitar:

*** couldn't get image. See attachment***

If I use the pushbuttons or knobs, I would arrange the Element, Pump, and Aux in a vertical column down the middle, with the MAIN under the PID and the Alarm on/off in the bottom right corner, and the EPO in the upper right corner.

I could also arrange them in a single row across the bottom as jsguitar's switches.

My main question at the moment (if you've read this far) is whether or not there is internal clearance to arrange 3 knobs or buttons in a vertical column and still have room for a readable label above each one. I've noticed that a few of you have placed your labels to the side of the knobs when using the Auberins Project Box.

Thanks,
Keith

Hi Keith,

Thanks for going over your thoughts on comparing the different designs people have come up with and how the functionality worked, It really helped me think things through. I am looking to make a simple biab exactly like johnodons. I know this is a bit of an old post, but if you use a cord GFCI, u can use the test button as a master power switch rather than installing one on the box.

Just an idea.

Thanks again!

Greetings,

Believe it or not, I really am making a tiny bit of progress on my build. I have a few questions that I'm posting at the end of this message.

I've ordered some weldless fittings (ball valve, sight glass, coupling for thermometer probe) for the keg that I recently cut and polished, so I am actually accomplishing a little - even if it isn't brewing.

My first BIAB brew in the keggle will still have to be with propane. We will finally be moving into a house that will have a great shop area for e-brewing. I'm trying to get e-prepared for that.

I'm trying to post a couple pictures, but I can't get the icons on the editing window to work. I've e-mailed one of the moderators about the problem.

Meanwhile, I'll post what I'm planning to order and see if you have any other suggestions.

I've been planning on using the Auberins box that resembles a shoebox for the enclosure. I will either mount the heat sink/SSR on the top or on the rear. I plan to use the turning knobs for the switches, some LED illuminated, and 1 that isn't. I will probably use dongles for my outlets.

For the moment, here's a link to the scan I made for the front panel:


1. Main Power - illuminated red switch located below the PID
2. Alarm - non-illuminated switch
3. Lighted Buzzer
4. Element - illuminated yellow switch
5. Pump/Aux - illuminated green switch
6. EPO - a la P.J. Mushroom button either on top or front.

A. The main power switch will actuate a 220V contactor (110V coil) to provide power to the rest of the box.
B. The alarm switch will allow the buzzer to sound depending upon the parameters set in the PID.
C. I plan to have the element switch actuate a 220V double pole contactor that will shut off both limbs of the circuit to the element when off. I've chosen to place it after the SSR - although, I've seen some folks place it before the SSR.
D. I don't know if I will have a pump or a stirrer, but I'm providing a 110V circuit for it.

From Automationdirect.com
GCX1300 Non-illuminated switch Alarm
GCX1251-120 Illuminated switch Red Power
GCX1253-120 Illuminated switch Yellow Element
GCX1252-120 Illuminated switch Green Pump
GCX3139 Momentary pushbutton EPO

From Auberins
PBox16 Project box
FLBuz Flashing buzzer
SYL-2352 PID Temperature Controller
RS1A40D40 40 A SSR
CN-PB302-120V Contactor, 2 pole, 30A, 120V Coil(Element)
CN-PB402-120V Contractor, 2 pole, 40A, 120V Coil(Main Power)
PT100-L100M14 Liquid Tight RTD sensor, weldless

I haven't included the actual plugs. For the little fuses to protect the PID and Pump, I haven't decided whether I should use the open snap-in mount that mounts to the inside of the box (sort of like automobile fuses) or the round screw-in ones that are accessible from outside the box.

1. I imagine that I will need junction strips and screws to attach the components. I'm thinking that this box is too small for DIN mounted components. What all do you think I will need?

2. For some reason, I'm thinking that the switch for the buzzer needs to be DPST, but I might be confused because I was previously looking at a lighted switch for the Buzzer.

3. Please feel free to suggest alternatives as well as tell me what else you think I will need.

I read the Electricity Primer and downloaded the very helpful diagram showing the sizes of wire to be used at different points of the system.

I have some questions about the diagram that I posted earlier in this thread, but I will wait until the problem with posting pictures is resolved.

BTW, I'm drinking a glass of the B3 Stout (from Morebeer) that I bottled in mid April. I guess it's pretty good. I was told by a few other folks that it is.

Thanks for all the help and encouragement,
Keith

Here is the circuit drawing I made. Thanks to PJ for getting it sized for posting.

P-J said:

Click to expand...

I've been reading all I can regarding the wiring of the control panels. I've mainly studied the single element ones, but have learned from the others as well. I thought I was understanding things pretty well - my electronics knowledge dates to College Physics in 1979 in addition to having wired some minor home circuits myself. Last night I suddenly became quite confused as I studied my own schematic and a few others.

I apologize for the boring length of this, but I have several conceptual questions.

1. I will be omitting the 2nd 110V Aux circuit - leaving the single one for either a pump, stirrer, or something else that I might wish to control from the box.

2. I notice that some folks include circuit breakers inside their panels for their elements, and others do not. The ones who don't are not receiving warnings from those more knowledgeable about codes. Perhaps these are recommended for the larger panels used in 3-vessel brewing where there might be more than one element going at once. My control will have a single 220V circuit (either 4500 or 5500W element) and one 110V circuit (pump/aux). Do I need anything other than the small fuses to protect the PID and Pump?

3. I realize that I screwed up the wiring around my Main Power switch. This will be a LED-illuminated knob 110V switch actuating a double-pole contactor - 110V coil that controls both legs of the 220V feed. So, this switch should have either the blue or red wire going thru it - but not both - and should have a loop back to power the LED when the switch is closed. Somehow, this illuminated switch should have a yellow neutral.

4. The Alarm circuit is confusing me. Again, my switch wiring might be shown incorrectly as well. I'm now planning on using a non-illuminated switch to turn on/off the Buzzer. My confusion stems from the way the blue wires (110V) come from both the PID and the main 110V supply. Anyway, I would appreciate clarification.

5. The PID - and the instructions on the Auberins website weren't terribly clear about the alarm circuit. It says that the main power cables should be connected to terminals 9 & 10 (bottom 2 on right in my diagram), that polarity isn't important but, "[sic] for the sake of consistency with the wiring example described later, we suggest that you connect the hot wire to terminal 9 and the neutral to terminal 10." So, I should, although not necessary, reverse my yellow and blue.

For PID to SSR, #7 connects to "+" of the SSR and #8 connects to "-" of the SSR, so I have the control wires "leaving" the PID correctly.

The alarm circuit is confusing, and I'm wondering if the alarm knob is receiving power from 2 sources. The 4 contacts across the top of the PID are 1, 13, 14, 6. Alarm #1 uses #1 & 13, and Alarm #2 uses #14 & 13. The Auberins manual doesn't really describe what these terminals are, but it does discuss various types of alarms. I'm thinking that you usually configure them as a "low" alarm and a "high" alarm. By connecting #1 and #14, you can activate the same buzzer regardless of which alarm the PID is announcing.

I'm confused about #13. It appears that the 110V supply connects to the PID #7 thru a fuse, so this is the main source of power for the PID. It also appears that a 110V circuit (the same one here) also connects to #13. Is this the supply voltage to power the buzzer? Somewhere I read that the "alarm" relay in the PID is a dry switch and that the PID doesn't supply power to the buzzer.

Anyway, the bottom line is that I'm not certain about the correctness of my connections between the PID and the Buzzer and Buzzer Switch (which will now be non-illuminated).

Sorry if this is getting long, only a few more questions.

6. Regarding the use of terminal strips or busses that many people use to organize their wiring. Many of PJ's diagrams show these, and I think I understand their use in part: you don't see several wires joined together with twist-on connectors. Instead, you use screw terminal strips. Nevertheless, the schematics continue to show long branching pathways. Is there a rule for when you bring connections back to the terminal strips and when you simply connect from one device to another?

In my diagram, I'm thinking that the red and blue (actually red and black) wires should go straight to one side of the 220V contactor, out the other side of the contactor to a pair of junction strips. Meanwhile at the contactor, one of these legs should be looped back to carry 110v to the Main Power switch which will then go to the 110V coil of the contactor, then via the yellow wire to neutral (not like I have it in the drawing).

Now, after the main contactor, I will have 4 terminal mounting strips: Hot 1, Hot 2, neutral, ground. I've seen where someone saved space by bringing all grounds back to a single post. In this small box, I've seen where folks only need a single strip for both hots and simply jumper adjacent terminals together as needed.

Regarding bringing wires back to a bus/terminal strip:
a. I can see how one might connect the neutral for the aux to that of the pump, then on to the neutral bus - or would you continue this chain from the pump neutral to the PID neutral (#10), then the alarm switch neutral, then the buzzer neutral, etc?

b. I just realized that the yellow wire going from the PID to the SSR is a low voltage control current and probably shouldn't have been indicated by a yellow line.

c. Same question as in "a" regarding the blue hot. Would you send a single wire from one of the hot busses to the pump switch, then to the Aux switch (which I won't have)? Then send a 2nd wire from this bus to #9 of the PID, then loop around to #13 of the PID? Then a 3rd from this bus to the SSR and a 4th to the element switch.

d. Does any of that matter? Is is simply a matter of looking organized? IOW, is there any difference electrically between connecting the "+" terminals of 5 components together as a chain or connecting each one individually to a bus like a star?

e. I noticed that the other Hot in my drawing - the red line - only goes to the element. Is this how it "should" be done? Should the 110V components (PID, Pump, Aux, Buzzer) be divided up between the two hot lines such that some use Hot1/Neutral and some use Hot2/Neutral?

7. Really basic by this point: in using the Auberins project box, do these components simply screw down to the metal bottom with the screw ends protruding thru the bottom. Does the box have feet so this doesn't cause problems? It sounds pretty unsightly.

Thanks, everyone, for your help thus far. It would be great if I could have this thing ready before I get moved. The original owner of the house had a spa, so there's a spa panel outside that I will need to get checked - to see if it's appropriate for this application.

P.J., if you've read this far, I'd like to say "Thank you". I would greatly appreciate it if you would provide one of your fine diagrams that will show the proper connections with the proper components. I gave various part numbers in the preceeding post, but feel free to make suggestions where you believe they would function better.

Thank you,
Keith

Hi Keith,


Did you ever post completed pics of your control panel build? I have all components in hand and I am curious about your internal layout to fit everything in the PBOX16. Did you use NEMA plugs for main power [in] and element [out]? Those plugs seem to be posing the biggest obstacle in finding a good layout for me at the moment. I am considering foregoing the NEMA plug for main power [in] and just hardwiring my extension cord into the control panel, with a dryer plug on the other end. That may provide enough room to put the element [out] plug next to the heat sink on the back of the panel. Planning to use a standard 3 prong plug for the pump [out], which will fit on one of the low sidewalls.

Thank you in advance for your help and perspective,

Ryan

Ryan,

Thanks for asking. You must have done some real digging thru the forum to find my post. I did a lot of that because I didn't want to waste time asking questions that had already been answered several times.

My e-brewing project has been placed onto the back burner for a while. After having rented for 3 years, last November we have moved into a nice house that has a fantastic area in the basement for brewing. My wife has been busily unpacking boxes and I have been very busy at work. We've been using the brewing area for storage. We've also had some other issues at home that have gotten in the way of my hobbies.

Regarding your specific questions: I think I had decided to hard wire the power cord and use dongles for the element and pump much like Todd (thughes) did with his. I like the look of the little control boxes that sit on the counter, but I was afraid that I would run out of space for (1) main power contactor, (2) element contactor, (3) SSR, (4) PID. I also liked the look of the heat sink on the top near the back along with the mushroom-shaped EPO on top.

I purchased a 12" square plastic enclosure from Home Depot (or Lowes) as I had pretty much decided to follow Voltin's build pretty closely. I have not yet purchased any additional components.

It may sound rude, but I happen to have a bit more money than I have time to throw at this project. I love DIY, but I'm not the male "Martha Stewart" that some of these guys are. I've thought about dropping the $1000for the complete BIAB setup sole by High Gravity. I've thought about purchasing High Gravity's EBC II controller and putting my energy into building the e-kettle. I'm having difficulty getting motivated for this as well as for setting up my other money-eating project (my home pipe organ).

I've been reading the threads on the small e-kettle setups. I want to stay 220V, and I'd like to electrify my 7.5 gallon SS kettle as an electric kettle so I can brew small batches of a number of beers. Both Kal and High Gravity sell elements, but they're too long for my 12.75" kettle.

Anyway, thanks, again, for asking. I will update the thread when I get back around to setting things up.

Thanks,
Keith