Auber SYL-2352 Problem

[schwartzr33]

I have a SYL-2352 PID that has given me over 10 years of excellent service. Today it would not turn on. The rest of the control panel is working (all the switches work, the contactors work, and the pump works). I tested the PID with a multimeter and it is receiving 120V across terminals 9 and 10, however the PID will not light-up and the heating elements will not turn on. The PID seems to be dead. Before I replace the PID, can anyone suggest anything else to try? Thanks.

 

[sibelman]

Sounds like you've tested appropriately. I think it's dead. Dang!

@schwartzr33, before ordering a replacement, you might contact Auber just in case they have resuscitation magic. There's a WiFi version now but, miraculously, the basic unit costs about the same as it did when you (and I) bought this unit 10 years ago.

You may also want to consider upgrading to their EZBoil. Have a look at this HBT thread.

Cheers!

 

[Broken Crow]

10 years of working in a hot box isn't bad. You could open it up and start testing individual components...electrolytic capacitors for example, tend to be the first to die in many power supplies... Or: You could look on it as an opportunity to upgrade. I can highly recommend the DSPR320, EZboil for Boiling, Step Mashing, and Low Oxygen (LODO) Brewing DSPR320 EZBoil Controller for Boiling, Step Mashing, and Low Oxygen (LODO) Brewing [DSPR320A] - $72.50 : Auber Instruments, Inc., Temperature control solutions for home and industry which also has a useful thread: Understanding the Auber EZboil DSPR-320

 

[Bobby_M]

Call it a decade and upgrade to the DSPR-120 (if it's just for boil kettle control) or the DSPR-320 if it's for mash temp control. Enjoy the functionality upgrade.

 

[schwartzr33]

Call it a decade and upgrade to the DSPR-120 (if it's just for boil kettle control) or the DSPR-320 if it's for mash temp control. Enjoy the functionality upgrade.

I step mash with a HERMS, so the DSPR-320 makes sense. However, my boil kettle does not currently have a temperature probe. I boil by manually setting my PID (RIP my old friend) to 100%, when I see the wort boil, I back the PID down to 50% and set a 60 min. timer on my phone. I've read your posts about the EZboil and it seems like I can enjoy upgrades in my mash process while continuing with a somewhat manual process for boiling. Is that about right?

 

[Bobby_M]

I step mash with a HERMS, so the DSPR-320 makes sense. However, my boil kettle does not currently have a temperature probe. I boil by manually setting my PID (RIP my old friend) to 100%, when I see the wort boil, I back the PID down to 50% and set a 60 min. timer on my phone. I've read your posts about the EZboil and it seems like I can continue with a similar (somewhat manual) process, but I'd still enjoy some enhancements. Is that about right?

I assume you're using the same PID for the HLT for HERMS control and then when it's time to boil you switch the element cable over to the boil kettle. You can still run the DSPR the same way but you lose a little of the boil intelligence. It would be pretty easy to install a second probe in the boil to gain that. The advantage to have the DSPR know your boil temperature is the boil over protection you'll gain. That is, it will cut the power from 100% to 50% automatically so if you miss it, you won't have a boilover.

Note that the DSPR-120 is significantly easier to understand than the 320 and I would make bets that the 320 would cause buyers remorse for at least 3 batches. The only thing gained by the complexity of the 320 is the ability to set timed schedules that will run unattended. The 120 has a single temperature for a set time and boil power for a set time functions. The 320 can run through 18 different phases of a program either temperature or boil power without touching the thing.

 

[schwartzr33]

I assume you're using the same PID for the HLT for HERMS control and then when it's time to boil you switch the element cable over to the boil kettle. You can still run the DSPR the same way but you lose a little of the boil intelligence. It would be pretty easy to install a second probe in the boil to gain that. The advantage to have the DSPR know your boil temperature is the boil over protection you'll gain. That is, it will cut the power from 100% to 50% automatically so if you miss it, you won't have a boilover.

Yes, same PID for the boil kettle and HERMS and I move the element cable from vessel to vessel. The other advantage of a probe in the HLT would be automated heating of the strike water (and not overshooting!). Where should the HLT probe be installed? In the sidewall of the HLT?

 

[sibelman]

Where should the HLT probe be installed?

A concern with HLT measurement is temperature stratification -- the top will be hotter than the bottom. Recirculating mitigates this problem and means the probe can go "anywhere." In my case, it's external, in a tee at the HLT outlet.

 

[Broken Crow]

Just a thought; If you mount the temp probe in a tee with camlocks you could swap it out from the HLT to the BK at the same time as swapping out the controller. ....maybe?

 

[schwartzr33]

A concern with HLT measurement is temperature stratification -- the top will be hotter than the bottom. Recirculating mitigates this problem and means the probe can go "anywhere." In my case, it's external, in a tee at the HLT outlet.

I see. How do you return the wort to the HLT? Do you pump it back through the top of HLT? Through a side port? Thanks.

 

[schwartzr33]

Just a thought; If you mount the temp probe in a tee with camlocks you could swap it out from the HLT to the BK at the same time as swapping out the controller. ....maybe?

That is a clever idea, thanks. It would also save wear and tear on the probe cable (connecting, reconnecting, repeat).

 

[Broken Crow]

I see. How do you return the wort to the HLT? Do you pump it back through the top of HLT? Through a side port? Thanks.

Here I go again, recommending @Bobby_M hardware: BrewHardware.com - High end, practical homebrewing hardware, accessories and ingredients for making beer, wine, mead, and cider.

 

[sibelman]

I see. How do you return the wort to the HLT? Do you pump it back through the top of HLT? Through a side port? Thanks.

My HLT has a HERMS coil, through which wort is recirculated. Wort doesn't belong in the HLT itself - only water. Others recirculate wort through a RIMS device. Wort goes back into the mashtun at the top (and also near the bottom in some cases - @Bobby_M favors a dual return for BIAB).

Yes, recirculation of HLT water (aka liquor) goes out the low outlet port and back in a port near the top.

I hope this is more clarifying than confusing!

 

[schwartzr33]

My HLT has a HERMS coil, through which wort is recirculated. Wort doesn't belong in the HLT itself - only water. Others recirculate wort through a RIMS device. Wort goes back into the mashtun at the top (and also near the bottom in some cases - @Bobby_M favors a dual return for BIAB).

Yes, recirculation of HLT water (aka liquor) goes out the low outlet port and back in a port near the top.

I hope this is more clarifying than confusing!

Sorry, I got sloppy with my terminology. I have a HERMS that recirculates back into the mash tun/boil kettle. I'm looking at @Bobby_M Spincycle gear for the return in my unused, welded, low thermometer port.

 

[sibelman]

Bobby also does custom welding...

 

[shoengine]

Here I go again, recommending @Bobby_M hardware: BrewHardware.com - High end, practical homebrewing hardware, accessories and ingredients for making beer, wine, mead, and cider.

Darnit, stop that!