Your experience with electric brewing systems?

[kevin58]

The Anvil Foundry 10.5 gallon and 6.5 gallon units can be run on either 120V or 240V.

Yes, I know I have a 10.5. and that is why I said 110 sucks and recommend using 240.

 

[Martys1]

I recently picked up an Anvil Foundry 6.5 and even though I have only brewed on it 4 times,I am really enjoying it. I have the brew pots, and a keggle for bigger batches outside but I’m switching to 3 gal Recipes that I can brew inside.I’m also on 120v,no problem there, this unit works very well. The operating panel is very easy to use.It’s easy to clean.Pump works good also.I recently found a deal on a 10.5 but I was a day late and a dollar short.

 

[pinemarten]

Converting my three vessel HERMS system to electric is without question the most worthwhile change I’ve ever made. I cannot imagine going back to propane. It’s pricey to make the switch initially but I think I was underestimating the cost in dollars and time of dealing with propane. I’m positive it’s paid for itself over the years. Also, moving indoors makes brewing so much more enjoyable. I brew more often because I’m indoors and it’s not simply to avoid the cold. I love not having to ever think about something as simple as wind messing up my brew. Brewing is a lot more fun when you’re not mostly fighting with equipment.

 

[sibelman]

I've been an electric brewer for over 30 years. But these (cool, compact) all in ones seem disturbingly disposable if the proprietary electronics crater. I'm big on modularity.

 

[Homebrewer20]

I have the unibrau 10 gallon premium and love it, Steven is really great and will hook you up! It is a bit pricey, but still on the cheaper side for the premium systems. I didn't go with clawhammer because their design looks flawed.. I don't want a basket with holes In the sides, it screams low efficiency!
The spike system looks pretty great as well, but unibrau sold me

 

[GodsOwnDrunk]

How much will your electric bill increase if you go with one of these systems?

 

[Homebrewer20]

How much will your electric bill increase if you go with one of these systems?

Well I would assume with gas prices way up this year and no chance of coming down for the next 2.5 years, it would be a no brainer to switch to electric.. Although I don't have any numbers in front of me, I'd assume you can't go wrong

 

[doogster]

Just a note: You cannot do a traditional fly sparge (1" - 2" of liquid over the grain bed) with the all-in-one (AIO) units. You can to a pour over sparge (no liquid above grain bed), which is not as efficient as a traditional fly sparge. (No, I haven't seen any actual measurements, and it is not possible to simulate accurately.) It is not necessary to heat sparge water, but doing so will speed up the time to reach boiling.

Brew on

Not sure what about other AIOs but I do a fly sparge (i.e. 1-2" of sparge water over the grain bed) with every batch on my Grainfather. After mashout, simply lift the basket, and as the liquid level drops let the top filter plat come to rest lightly on top of the grain bed and then start the flow of your sparge water (I feed mine from a gott cooler). Adjust the flow of the sparge water so it matches the flow through the grain bed and let it rip. If your crush is right, and your grain bed is setup well, you have a nice slow, even sparge. I suppose you could achieve the same by pouring sparge water from a pitcher on top... just have to keep up with the drainage to the liquid level stays high enough.

FWIW - I've been using a Grainfather G30 110v for years, and about 100 batches now... and love it. Especially the ability to brew indoors, year round. That, easy cleanup, and compact stoarge make it (any AIO, electric) a no brainer if you have the funds.

 

[doug293cz]

Not sure what about other AIOs but I do a fly sparge (i.e. 1-2" of sparge water over the grain bed) with every batch on my Grainfather. After mashout, simply lift the basket, and as the liquid level drops let the top filter plat come to rest lightly on top of the grain bed and then start the flow of your sparge water (I feed mine from a gott cooler). Adjust the flow of the sparge water so it matches the flow through the grain bed and let it rip. If your crush is right, and your grain bed is setup well, you have a nice slow, even sparge. I suppose you could achieve the same by pouring sparge water from a pitcher on top... just have to keep up with the drainage to the liquid level stays high enough.

FWIW - I've been using a Grainfather G30 110v for years, and about 100 batches now... and love it. Especially the ability to brew indoors, year round. That, easy cleanup, and compact stoarge make it (any AIO, electric) a no brainer if you have the funds.

Is your grain bed still saturated with wort during your sparge? If not, then it is not the same as a traditional fly sparge. Most grain beds will not stay saturated without a flow restriction at the bottom of the vessel containing the grain.

What is your typical sparge water volume, and how long does it take you to sparge? Do you recirculate wort during the mash (it seems to me that a bed that would flow slow enough to stay saturated without a bottom flow restriction, would be too compacted to be able to recirculate.)

Brew on

 

[Homebrewer20]

Is your grain bed still saturated with wort during your sparge? If not, then it is not the same as a traditional fly sparge. Most grain beds will not stay saturated without a flow restriction at the bottom of the vessel containing the grain.

What is your typical sparge water volume, and how long does it take you to sparge? Do you recirculate wort during the mash (it seems to me that a bed that would flow slow enough to stay saturated without a bottom flow restriction, would be to compacted too be able to recirculate.)

Brew on

Exactly the problem I have when the basket is lifted is that, the water flows through too quickly when fly sparging.. Too much dead space beneath where the elements are.. Any solutions would be appreciated!

 

[chuckyboomboom]

Exactly the problem I have when the basket is lifted is that, the water flows through too quickly when fly sparging.. Too much dead space beneath where the elements are.. Any solutions would be appreciated!

I have an Anvil Foundry, and a hoist in my garage ceiling. I simply raise the basket enough for the water level to come down to just above the top of the grain, set the hoist and start adding sparge water. When the water levels equalize, I repeat the process until sparge is complete, then lift the basket out completely. Usually takes about 25-40 mins depending on the grain bill. I always calculate my strike water volume at ~1.5 qt/lb, then add ~1.8 gal to compensate for dead space in the Anvil. The remaining water I use for sparge. I usually get mash efficiency in the low-mid 80s if I do everything right. It would probably make sense to just add more grain and not worry about it, but I like doing it.

 

[doogster]

Is your grain bed still saturated with wort during your sparge? If not, then it is not the same as a traditional fly sparge. Most grain beds will not stay saturated without a flow restriction at the bottom of the vessel containing the grain.

What is your typical sparge water volume, and how long does it take you to sparge? Do you recirculate wort during the mash (it seems to me that a bed that would flow slow enough to stay saturated without a bottom flow restriction, would be too compacted to be able to recirculate.)

Brew on

Yes - the grain is holding wort, but obviously its trickling out the bottom when I lift the basket. I guess I have crush that just works for me... wort flows through the grain during the mash, and I am recirculating the entire time. Once I life the basket and let the wort drip out into the boiler, while adding sparge water on top, it takes 30-40 minutes or so... haven't timed it in a very long time. My mash / sparge volumes are typically on the order of 4.5g mash to 3.5g sparge for an average strength brew... higher amounts for mashing if the grain bill is exceptionally large.

 

[doug293cz]

Yes - the grain is holding wort, but obviously its trickling out the bottom when I lift the basket. I guess I have crush that just works for me... wort flows through the grain during the mash, and I am recirculating the entire time. Once I life the basket and let the wort drip out into the boiler, while adding sparge water on top, it takes 30-40 minutes or so... haven't timed it in a very long time. My mash / sparge volumes are typically on the order of 4.5g mash to 3.5g sparge for an average strength brew... higher amounts for mashing if the grain bill is exceptionally large.

You may have accomplished a very tricky balancing act.

Brew on