Yet Another Electric Brewery Build

[homerbruer]

Greetings all,
Long time lurker, found so much great information here that I thought I ought to contribute my own experience such that others might benefit from it.

Overview:

• Mid-life (hopefully pre-mid-life) crisis build, so not cheap.
• Garages are for brewing, not cars.
• Engineering background, so if it's not broken, fix it.
• Kal-inspired PID, 3-vessel, HERMS. 220V 30A, switchable 5500W elements in HLT and BK.

 

[homerbruer]

Step One: Cut some holes in the wall.

Installed another 120V GFCI circuit for that corner of the garage, as well as a 4 wire 30A 220V outlet. 30A outlet is powered by a 30A dual pole GFCI, surprisingly pricey at ~$100.

 

[homerbruer]

Schematics below.

A few notes:

• Using DIN rail components and terminal blocks.
• 240 V to elements is routed through a 2-pole main power contactor, and each element also via separate 2-pole contactors.
• 120 V to pumps isolated by main power contactor.
• 120 V to PIDs and timers is independent of main power contactor, so that they are always on if panel is plugged in. I may change this in the future to have them turn on/off with the main on/off key.
• Each of the two 120 V circuits is protected by a circuit breaker.
• All high current 220 V wiring to elements is 10 AWG THHN, all other 120 V wiring is 14 AWG THHN and protected by the circuit breakers.
• Element firing indicator LEDs are 220 V and wired in parallel to the element receptacles.
• Safety interlock using latching relay as in Kal's plans, main contactor will not activate at power on unless element switch and pumps are off.
• Mushroom e-stop in series with main key on/off. I like the idea of a quick safety stop if there is a boil over or wort shooting across the garage, without having to work the key (or even worse if main on/off is on and key is removed).

Major Components:

• LT PIDs: Auber SYL-2352 (looking to possibly upgrade the MLT and BK to the SYL-2802A Dual Channel Temperature Meter and DSPR120 EZBoil controller)
• Temperature Probes: Auber 2x PT100-L401/2NPT, PT100-L50M14
• SSRs: Automation Direct AD-SSR640-DC-280A (40 A)
• Main Contactor: Auber DRCN, 120VAC coil, 2-pole NO, 63A load
• Element Contactors: Auber DRCN, 120VAC coil, 2-pole NO, 63A load
• Circuit Breakers: Automation Direct Eaton FAZ-C5-1-NA-SP (5A)
• Interlock Relay: Automation Direct 782-2C-120A, socket 782-2C-SKT

 

[homerbruer]

 

[homerbruer]

A few photos of the enclosure as I was working on it over the last few weeks:

Enclosure is a BUD Industries Series SNB Steel NEMA 4 Sheet Metal Box with Mounting Bracket, 15-3/4" Width x 15-3/4" Height x 7-55/64" Depth, Smooth Gray Finish, Part Number SNB-3737
A bit over $100 from Amazon. It has the two door locks on the corners rather than in the center, and also does not have the removable panel that the commonly-used Auber 16x16 enclosure does.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005T5H18U/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Heat sinks also from Amazon,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A9VUFGS/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[homerbruer]

How not to cut the holes for 1/16 DIN components and heat sinks:

I thought that my Dremel Ultra-Saw would make short work of the straight cuts. It did cut through the panel with ease, but it was easy to overshoot the corners, and the heat burned and destroyed the grey industrial finish in a few spots:

I used a punch for the 22 mm indicator and switch holes, and appropriate hole saws or step bit for the receptacles on the bottom of the enclosure. Tweaked the drilled holes with a file and deburrer. Panel mount holes for the receptacles were drilled and tapped.

 

[homerbruer]

I was originally planning on keeping the grey industrial coating on the enclosure, but my FUBAR'ng of the rectangular holes meant that I needed to paint. So I prepped the surface and laid down some black from a spray can.

 

[homerbruer]

Moral of the story: use a jigsaw with fine-toothed blade to cut the rectangular holes.

 

[homerbruer]

Here is a rough fit of the panel components, and labels.

Started laying out components on the DIN rail and running some of the 10 AWG. Made some changes to the exact layout as I went along.

Also double-checked that the PIDs in the panel would not interfere with components mounted on the back panel. (Photo taken through heat sink holes.)

Laid down a little silicone, mounted the heat sinks. Bolted down the back panel, and started running wires to the SSRs.

 

[jcav]

Looking great so far!

John

 

[GJOCONNELL]

christ

 

[shoengine]

Hmm, looks like a lot of automation is in store...

 

[homerbruer]

Finished wiring things up last night. Forgot to fix the timer relay and run/stop wiring.

The switch above the timer is a simple run/stop maintained switch. I am planning to use the timer (Ink-Bird B2E-2R-220) in the count up mode. If signal is applied to the gate terminal, the counting is paused. That signal on the gate terminal (similarly the reset terminal) is either +12 V or 0 V, depending on the "In" setting in the configuration (NPN=0 V, PNP=+12 V). I wired the 0 V terminal to the gate terminal through a NC contact on the switch; so when the switch is in the inactive position (left), the 0 V is applied to gate, and the timer is stopped. Turning the switch right removes the 0 V from the gate and makes the timer run as normal.

Last night I tested things with a normal 120 V cable wired in to the PIDs, timer, and pumps. (You can see it tied to the terminal blocks in the last image in post #9.) All looked to be working pretty well after I realized I forgot to run neutral to the panel components. PIDs and timers, safety interlock, pump switching and their nifty lighted switches, and element select contactors all working. WOOT.

Tonight I wired up the beast of a 30A 10AWG/4 SJOOW cable to connect up to my GFCI outlet and started testing the higher voltage circuits. All working, and looks like the SSRs switching the power to the element outlets as they should. WOOT.

Now on to wiring up the element cables and getting the kettles drilled and punched...

 

[BrunDog]

Good stuff!

 

[Redtab78]

pics don't work

 

[augiedoggy]

pics don't work

Just a heads up, the issue is on your pc or device... They all load fine here
maybe try a different browser.

 

[Redtab78]

ok, thanks

 

[homerbruer]

Ok, here's a couple of (hopefully working) pics of the finished wiring job.

If anyone is on the fence about using the DIN rails and terminal blocks, I highly recommend them. I used the Konnect-It blocks like these:
https://www.automationdirect.com/ad...evel_Feed-Through_Terminal_Blocks/KN-T6GRY-25
There is a good selection of colors available, and using the colored blocks and a few different colors of wiring, I think it will be easy to work with the panel in the future when it comes time to debug problems or make changes.

I also used the separators, ground blocks, jumpers, and end brackets. I forgot to order the end covers, so made do without. I have leftovers of most components to use on later projects.

(Note that the DIN breakers are actually 7 and 10 A, because these are what I had ordered, and they'll more than protect the 14 AWG.)

Testing things out:

 

[BrunDog]

Fast build! Keep in mind SSR's need a load to test them in case you weren't aware they leak.

 

[ChocolateMaltyBalls]

Looks great!

 

[pennengr]

Makes me wish i was a EE instead of a ChemE. Nice build.

 

[homerbruer]

Makes me wish i was a EE instead of a ChemE. Nice build.

But I bet your plumbing rocks, and you eat heat transfer calcs for breakfast.

 

[homerbruer]

Thanks all!

 

[homerbruer]

Fast build! Keep in mind SSR's need a load to test them in case you weren't aware they leak.

Yeah, they acted a little wonky without a load, as expected. Checked the input signals on the SSRs and they looked good; contactors and safeties worked as expected. Hopefully I can get an element in a pot this weekend and test under load.

 

[doug293cz]

Great looking build! Being a design geek, I really want to dig into the schematic details to compare with how I design things.

Brew on

 

[runbad]

I likey so far..:: hopefully Homer makes it into the final layout.

 

[homerbruer]

I likey so far..:: hopefully Homer makes it into the final layout.

Indeed. I'm hoping a decal will adhere to the textured black paint. Might need to apply the decal to a thin piece of plastic and glue or screw it to the panel.

 

[homerbruer]

Ok, spent some time working on the hot liquor tank.

Getting things organized out of the pile of boxes in the corner of the garage:

Using a Bayou Classic Model 1060, 62qt Kettle. I don't plan on needing to know the volume of water in the tank, so no sight glass. (Incidentally, I had originally gotten another 1060 for my boil kettle, but ended up switching it out for one with volume markings.)

On the left is the 5500 W ripple element with integrated tri-clamp (brewhardware item ELEMENT5500_RIPPLE_TC). These things are sexy as hell. I think the premium will be worth it for the ability to remove the element when desired. You can also see the weldless 1.5" TC bulkhead flange (brewhardware TC15WLF). I used the drill bit and socket that brewhardware sells for this weldless bulkhead during the install--made it very easy.

HLT outlet is a straightfoward true weldless bulkhead (brewhardware TrueBulkheadFem) to a tee for the RTD temperature sensor (Auber PT100-L401/2NPT) then to a NPT-TC adapter. I'm going with 1.5" tri clamp on the cold and hot sides for no other reason than that I wanted a standard style of connector across the brewery, and that I think they're pretty cool. A little more money up front, but low maintenance and should last forever.

HERMS in and out are compression true weldless bulkheads (brewhardware TrueBulkhead12Comp). HERMS coil is also from brewhardware (HERMSCOIL).

Just a quick note: these weldless bulkheads from brewhardware are top-notch construction. Kudos to Bobby_M!

You can also see my March 809 PL-HS-C polysulfone center inlet pump, leftover from my old brew setup (used at the time for kettle whirlpool while using an immersion chiller). I added 1.5" TC fittings from brewershardware and a basic stainless ball valve.

Finally, two filter housings containing carbon filters that I'll run in series. (Trying these out: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UQPONM/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20.) Seattle does not use chloramine, so this ought to do the trick.

Here's the drilled hole for the TC bulkhead. A light filing and the fit was perfect. Wife complemented me on my "nice hole".

We then punched the holes for the outlet and HERMS in/outs. For some reason drilling the holes for the punch bolt for these three was a real b... bear. Had another beer and kept at it; that worked. The 13/16" punched holes are absolutely perfect for the 1/2" NPT fittings.

Test fitting everything:

 

[homerbruer]

Leak testing this morning. So far so good.

 

[augiedoggy]

Ok, spent some time working on the hot liquor tank.

Getting things organized out of the pile of boxes in the corner of the garage:

Using a Bayou Classic Model 1060, 62qt Kettle. I don't plan on needing to know the volume of water in the tank, so no sight glass. (Incidentally, I had originally gotten another 1060 for my boil kettle, but ended up switching it out for one with volume markings.)

On the left is the 5500 W ripple element with integrated tri-clamp (brewhardware item ELEMENT5500_RIPPLE_TC). These things are sexy as hell. I think the premium will be worth it for the ability to remove the element when desired. You can also see the weldless 1.5" TC bulkhead flange (brewhardware TC15WLF). I used the drill bit and socket that brewhardware sells for this weldless bulkhead during the install--made it very easy.

HLT outlet is a straightfoward true weldless bulkhead (brewhardware TrueBulkheadFem) to a tee for the RTD temperature sensor (Auber PT100-L401/2NPT) then to a NPT-TC adapter. I'm going with 1.5" tri clamp on the cold and hot sides for no other reason than that I wanted a standard style of connector across the brewery, and that I think they're pretty cool. A little more money up front, but low maintenance and should last forever.

HERMS in and out are compression true weldless bulkheads (brewhardware TrueBulkhead12Comp). HERMS coil is also from brewhardware (HERMSCOIL).

Just a quick note: these weldless bulkheads from brewhardware are top-notch construction. Kudos to Bobby_M!

You can also see my March 809 PL-HS-C polysulfone center inlet pump, leftover from my old brew setup (used at the time for kettle whirlpool while using an immersion chiller). I added 1.5" TC fittings from brewershardware and a basic stainless ball valve.

Finally, two filter housings containing carbon filters that I'll run in series. (Trying these out: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UQPONM/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20.) Seattle does not use chloramine, so this ought to do the trick.

Here's the drilled hole for the TC bulkhead. A light filing and the fit was perfect. Wife complemented me on my "nice hole".

We then punched the holes for the outlet and HERMS in/outs. For some reason drilling the holes for the punch bolt for these three was a real b... bear. Had another beer and kept at it; that worked. The 13/16" punched holes are absolutely perfect for the 1/2" NPT fittings.

Test fitting everything:

I use the same kettle, TC weldless adapter from brewhardware and similar Twistlock heating element for my BK on my rig. I was impressed as well by the weldless fitting from Bobby. works perfect and I didnt need any special tools or sockets to install myself.

 

[homerbruer]

Ugggh, this numbskull forgot to punch the hole for water return at the top. Wooomp wooomp.

 

[doug293cz]

Ugggh, this numbskull forgot to punch the hole for water return at the top. Wooomp wooomp.

Hey, would you rather have punched an extra hole? :smack:

Brew on

 

[homerbruer]

Hey, would you rather have punched an extra hole? :smack:

Brew on

Good point. This was an easier fix.

 

[homerbruer]

OK, admittedly, this part is a little absurd.
Ss Brewtech Infussion mash tun. Obviously overkill with HERMS, but this was actually the first piece of equipment I bought, when still thinking I would be doing gas, single infusion brewing (maybe using RIMS to ramp to mash out).

Planning to use the sparge manifold for the HERMS wort return.

Beautiful maple mash paddle ordered from Etsy.
https://www.etsy.com/shop/DigaDesigns

Installation of the recirc bulkhead went ok. Basically involves using two different hole saws on the inner and outer walls of the tun. This Ss bulkhead for this purpose is meant to be water tight, but not really meant to be submerged. I am going to coat the exposed foam with silicone sealant for good measure. Also thinking of using a larger gasket in place of the supplied o-ring, and maybe a washer between the supplied nut and inner tun wall. (There is a little play in the bulkhead and I am not confident in how that o-ring is seating. I think this is because my holes ended up slightly off-concentric--my bad.)

 

[homerbruer]

I've been building a unistrut frame over the last few weeks, not really photo-documenting along the way. Strut was from box store. Ordered fittings from strutchannelfittings.com, and got a cheap-ish chop saw from harbor freight.

Here is a preview of the not-quite-finished kettles on the not-quite-finished stand. The wood top is an Ikea GERTON solid wood unit that I ripped with circular saw to the appropriate width to go on the strut stand top. I'll screw it from below using wood screws and fender washers. I think the table top is a nice touch.

In that photo you can also see some strut behind the table top that supports the electrical control panel and can be used to hand some paraphrenalia like hoses and clamps. This turned out to be a bit rickety, and I'm going to go with a sturdier approach for mounting the panel and hanging brewing-related crap.

 

[BrewKaiser]

Looking good Homerbruer. Making quick work of that build.

One thing to consider is that TC fittings are a bit of a pain. I noticed you have TC fittings installed on weldless bulkheads where your hoses are going. TC fittings are great in pure sanitary loops. Once you use threaded fittings the assumed benefit of the TC fittings are diminished. I have both TC and Cam-lock fittings on my set up. The Cam-locks are used on all pre-boil loops and are much easier to work with than the TCs. Don't get me wrong, I like the TCs but if you plan on moving hoses around during a brew day or break down all your hoses for cleaning, the Cam locks or QDs are much easier. Wish I had used fewer TCs on my rig. May be too late for you, but Cam locks and QDs are also less expensive.

Just my $.02. Otherwise, look forward to seeing your rig once operational.

 

[homerbruer]

Looking good Homerbruer. Making quick work of that build.

One thing to consider is that TC fittings are a bit of a pain. I noticed you have TC fittings installed on weldless bulkheads where your hoses are going. TC fittings are great in pure sanitary loops. Once you use threaded fittings the assumed benefit of the TC fittings are diminished. I have both TC and Cam-lock fittings on my set up. The Cam-locks are used on all pre-boil loops and are much easier to work with than the TCs. Don't get me wrong, I like the TCs but if you plan on moving hoses around during a brew day or break down all your hoses for cleaning, the Cam locks or QDs are much easier. Wish I had used fewer TCs on my rig. May be too late for you, but Cam locks and QDs are also less expensive.

Just my $.02. Otherwise, look forward to seeing your rig once operational.

Thanks BK,
I've had the thought on my mind after using the TC fittings while testing last weekend. I knew there was no sanitary benefit on the hot side, but figured on using TC to be consistent with the rest of the rig. However, for the reasons you mention, I am looking at replacing some of the hot side fittings that will need to be swapped around often during brew day with either QDs or cam-locks.

 

[homerbruer]

Fired up the HLT side of things last night.
Turns out my old March pump may have bitten the dust--wouldn't spin. I'll try taking it apart and see if there's an obvious cause.
Was able to raise ~8 gal of water from 50 to 100 degF in about 12 minutes. This is in the ballpark of other estimates I've seen on these forums, and other places on the web. WOOT. I'll get some better data later.

FYI, Time(hrs) = 3.1 * Gallons * ΔT(°F) / Wattage

Also looks like I'll need to auto-tune, as the PID overshot and had a hard time getting back to the set point.
And I'll get some pictures next time.

 

[homerbruer]

Ok, not sure if this will upload, but here's the work in progress. Bored, sitting, waiting to get seated for dinner; so here I am posting with my phone.

View attachment 1491702939981.jpg

 

[homerbruer]

Wow, looks like it uploaded right-side-up. I've tested one of the elements successfully. I ended up building a small partition wall in the garage to hold the control panel and paraphernalia. A little more plumbing to finish up and then test the boil kettle.
I will get some more pictures of how the fittings in the kettles ended up.
Also added a proper dial thermometer to the mash tun. I love the Ss brewtech harsware, but honestly I think the digital thermometers are a letdown. They are pretty hard to see, as they are older style LCDs. The thermowells they provide are constructed really well, but I ended up punching the hole a little larger to allow for a 1/2" NPT bulkhead and used a ~6in stem dial thermometer. I think it looks pretty nice, and the reading was spot on compared to the thermapen.