Is that cord for plugging into a 4 prong dryer outlet to the spa panel? If so that is perfect, provided you have the right outlet and it is wired with a safety ground.
Hey guys, I am still a little confused. Not the most electrical savvy. Can you possibly post a picture so I can get a better grasp? Wouldn't I need to run a 10/4 cord from main to spa panel to match the 4 wires? Isn't that what the 4 stands for? I don't think my dryer outlet plug is 4 prong, which is why I was thinking of buying a 30 Amp, 125/250 Volt, Flush Mounting Locking Receptacle to install in the side of my spa panel to plug the control box into. Let me know what you all think, I am purchasing everything I need today. Bought everything except the electrical plugs, connectors, and receptecales.
Chris7687 said:voltin - I noticed that you don't have a automatic shutoff switch on your box. Any reason you did not add it? The kit I bought from Ebrewsupply.com came with a key start and an automatic shut off "button". I don't see the key necessary, but thinking the shut off might be. Your thoughts on this?
is that considered "safe" or should we be tripping the breaker/gfci?
is that considered "safe" or should we be tripping the breaker/gfci?
Voltin - how much wiring would you say you used for the panel? Can I find those fuses at Home Depot?
Voltin I have a couple of questions.
1. How did you secure L14-30R 30A Locking Receptacle inside of the spa panel? I just installed my spa panel and dont see a clean way of securing it.
2. What wire/cable did you use to run between the spa panel and your controller?
Thanks
As promised here are some more pictures:
Close up of the front panel with all of the controls lit up.
The insides of the control panel. The switches, PID and alarm on the left, the SSR on top, the contractors, terminal strip and outlets on the right.
Attached to the top is the SSR (screwed and thermal pasted to the heatsink). In the top left of the subpanel is a terminal strip, which feeds the hot and neutral lines for the 120V stuff. Below that is the ground bus bar that services all the ground runs. It's hard to tell from the photo, but the paint on the subpanel has been sanded off so the bus bar is in direct contact to it, grounding the subpanel (the only metallic part of the panel.) On the far right is the main power contactor. Just above the 120V and 240V outlets is the element power contactor. Also on the bottom left of the photo against the bottom edge you can see my hack job of securing one of the fuses holders with silicone, because I did not measure properly. (Remember measure twice cut, once....)
Close up of the backside of the front panel. On the top, from left to right the alarm, PID and main power button. Right below the PID is the alarm button. The bottom row is the pump and element buttons.
A bottom view showing the power cord coming from the GFCI spa panel (not shown) which is connected to a dryer outlet and the probe going to the kettle RTD sensor.
Voltin, it is hard to tell from the pictures but how did you secure your heatsink to the enclosure? I looks like the ssr is screwed to the heatsink but I dont see any screws coming in holding the heatsink to the enclosure
Voltin,
I looked back thru your initial photos and can't tell where you have your temp probe mounted. You mentioned at one point that you didn't recirculate at first, so I'm assuming that you had your probe tip somewhere in side your kettle. If it was near the bottom, did you ever test to see how much temp stratification you had in your kettle?
Thanks,
Keith
I had the water just a hair from boiling and it was still reading back and forth fro 39 to 40. So must be my wiring is wrong somehow. Question, does the controller come in Celcius or Farenheit?
Also, did you happen to install a anode? I forgot that part and got bad rust on the heating element during a leak test. Was looking to do a weldless anode installation.
voltin - Sitting here thinking while I have my PID auto tuning. Since BIAB is a little different from the traditional brewing, in that we stir our grain bed while it's mashing. Should we be stirring our water while it's programing like we do while brewing to evenly dispense the heat? Or is this not something to be worried about?
Enter your email address to join: