solavirtus
Well-Known Member
Instead of US05, consider wyeast 3711. It attenuates like crazy and a lot of brewers, including me, really like the strain.
Instead of US05, consider wyeast 3711. It attenuates like crazy and a lot of brewers, including me, really like the strain.
i have been emailing with a tech at wyeast, and they wrote to me:
"The only trick we know so far to get 3724 to finish w/o stalling is running it at 90oF from the start."
There's a big difference between pitching at 90F, and raising the temp to 90F after more than 50% attenuation has been achieved at lower, more reasonable temperatures.
Most off the undesirable off-flavors are created during the initial stages of fermentation, and pitching at that high of a temperature exacerbates these problems.
I have pitched this yeast at 90F and fermented at 100F. It was outstanding.
So anyone who is concerned about "off flavors" needs to actually try it instead of theorizing. This isn't like some lager yeast or a clean American ale style. It's a much different beast.
How long did you let it condition for afterwards? Any hot alcohol flavors? I'd love to try it but I'm a little gun shy after wyeast said that a 90* ferment would produce fusels with 3724.
How long did you let it condition for afterwards? Any hot alcohol flavors? I'd love to try it but I'm a little gun shy after wyeast said that a 90* ferment would produce fusels with 3724.
How long did you let it condition for afterwards? Any hot alcohol flavors? I'd love to try it but I'm a little gun shy after wyeast said that a 90* ferment would produce fusels with 3724.
I have pitched this yeast at 90F and fermented at 100F. It was outstanding.
So anyone who is concerned about "off flavors" needs to actually try it instead of theorizing. This isn't like some lager yeast or a clean American ale style. It's a much different beast.
How long did you let it condition for afterwards? Any hot alcohol flavors? I'd love to try it but I'm a little gun shy after wyeast said that a 90* ferment would produce fusels with 3724.
How did it score in BJCP judged competitions?
Also, Wyeast says otherwise:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/3724-fusel-alcohol-dilemma-487773/index2.html#post6324710
Not a benchmark, but almost always more reliable than one homebrewer's opinion of his/her own beer. If a beer scores well (or poorly) in aggregate over 2-3 competitions by certified judges, that is without a doubt a more objective measure of its merit.
The reason I am considering US05 is that I have a Cream Ale that is done and I plan on harvesting the yeast. One pint will go in the fridge, one pint may be used to finish the 3724 Saison.
Ok, so I brewed a 1.053 OG sasion about 3 weeks ago and with the help of and warm water tub refilled once a day, it has gotten down to 1.012. i have read most of this thread and have seen people keg this beer anywhere from 1.012 to 1.002. I like the taste now. It is a touch sweet for my taste but certainly very good. For those of you that have worked with this yeast before would you go ahead and keg now or wait to see how far it drops? Also, I actually love hazy sasions and I want mine to drink that way but I don't want it to be a milkshake either. Should I cold crash for a few days or no?
After 11 days the SG was 1.017 and it slowly chomped on those last points over the next three weeks. FG of 1.002 after a 5 week primary.
I never experienced a stall, and I think the key was a huge starter, yeast nutrient, ramping up the temperature, and patience.
Uhhh...if it needed 5 weeks to reach FG, then you had a stall.
This strain should take 5-7 days to reach terminal gravity (< 1.005) with wort of modest density - if the fermentation is handled correctly.
what is your approach to handling this strain correctly?This strain should take 5-7 days to reach terminal gravity (< 1.005) with wort of modest density - if the fermentation is handled correctly.
Uhhh...if it needed 5 weeks to reach FG, then you had a stall.
This strain should take 5-7 days to reach terminal gravity (< 1.005) with wort of modest density - if the fermentation is handled correctly.
I've used this yeast a number of times and I've never had a stall. I pitch in the mid 60s, let it free rise, then maybe 36 hrs after visible fermentation starts I crank it up 7 or 8 degrees per day to the 90s. At this point I'll add any syrups or additional sugars and leave it up there until it finishes. I take it back down at least 2 days before bottling
If the beer tastes really nice, then the fermentation was handled correctly, whether or not it when quickly or slowly.
In the Farmhouse Ales book where the author writes quite a bit specifically about the Dupont strain, you'll note that Dupont ferments hot and fast because of the brewery needs (capacity), not because the beer tastes better that way.
Can you make Dupont ferment fast? you bet. Can it get "stuck"? yep. Does it really matter? Not really; it's a matter of time and personal taste.
what is your approach to handling this strain correctly?
Also everyone on here should try Omega Yeast's new cross-breed "Saisonstein's Monster" which purports to be a cross breed of the Belgian and French saison strains with a focus on getting Dupont's flavor profile but without the dreaded fermentation stall.
Adam
Definitely rouse. I attach my co2 hose to a sanitized racking cane to push co2 to the bottom of the carboy. This is more effective than swirling and it pushes any o2 out of the carboy since you are bubbling co2 up from the bottom.
co2 rousing and high temp, 85-90 was what worked for me.
How's rousing with CO2 more effective? Some sort of facts to back that up please!?! I'm not sure how swirling isn't more effective as it moves the entire mass. Rousing with CO2 would only concentrate in one area, and not too much mass would be move. I would imagine moving the entire yeast cake instead of little sections would prove more effective. But since you keep repeating yourself I'm sure you have some hard facts and numbers to back it up.
Rouse the yeast. Either carefully blow carbon dioxide up through the bottom of the fermentation tank, or when using a smaller homebrew fermenter, you can tilt it on edge and swirl the beer.
I'm aware of what it is and why it's used. Was just wondering why you kept repeating your CO2 method when we as homebrewers have it easy in that we can literally swirl the vessel.
Much easier, at least in my case in my buckets - not my conical, to swirl it. Not having to worry about having a tube/hose stuck in my vessel the entire time. In my situation it would be somewhat difficult. Now if I were using my carboys and carboy cap with dip tube in it...
Not sure why you were quoting some passages that don't prove which is better?
Rousing with CO2 would only concentrate in one area, and not too much mass would be move.
Your previous reply had language that sounded as if you doubted whether co2 rousing would be effective.
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