Wort Chiller connection help

[idleclamp]

I have a question regarding hookups for my wort chillers. It's plural because I put a stainless steel chiller in one sink and fill it with ice water. I put the second one (that's copper) in the wort. So water goes into the stainless steel one to chill, then into the copper one to chill the wort, then the drain. I get a batch of beer down to 68 degrees in about 11 minutes.

The issue I currently have is that I have to hook the water hose up to the faucet outside and run a garden hose into the kitchen. What I want to do is be able to have a line running off the cold water valve under the sink that I can tap off of to run the chiller on brew day. But be able to close off that line and unhook so still use the sink when I'm not brewing. I've tried to find the right parts and just can't seem to get it put together without a bunch of plumbing/sweating, which I don't really want to do.

In my mind I want to have two valves off the cold water supply. If I bought a valve with two outlets, one needs to go to another shutoff for the chiller. The chiller currently has a female garden hose end, the hose is 5/16". Any idea what parts I need to buy to make this happen?? I've attached a pic of the cold supply valve. Thanks!

 

[cloudybrewer]

I use a sink thread to garden hose thread adapter and connect the garden hose straight to the faucet. I bought the connector at Menards in their kitchen plumbing section for about $5. You just unscrew the screen body from the end of the faucet and put the adapter on instead. Easy Peasy.

 

[idleclamp]

The problem with that method is that I have a sprayer-type head on the sink faucet. I don't believe I could do it that way without taking the whole thing apart.

 

[cloudybrewer]

Ah, yes. I forgot that part. I use the basement sink, which is the older style.

It looks like the cold water shutoff is threaded on to the copper line, right? If so, you could take it off and see if a Y connector exists that is compatible with the threads that could be put in it's place. Then put a shutoff on each branch of the Y for two water lines.

 

[timdillon36]

I would add a T to the vertival pipe above the one that is there. Add the valve and any other plumbing you want to that

I would use a push loc T

 

[idleclamp]

I would add a T to the vertival pipe above the one that is there. Add the valve and any other plumbing you want to that

I would use a push loc T

Are you talking about cutting the copper pipe and adding another valve? If so, that's what I'm trying to avoid.

I'd like to replace the current valve with a valve that has two 'exits'. I can find one of those. The problem I'm having is finding the parts to a.) add a shutoff on the second line and b.) find the right type of connections to get it to fit to the hose on the chiller.

 

[dyqik]

The problem with that method is that I have a sprayer-type head on the sink faucet. I don't believe I could do it that way without taking the whole thing apart.

I've managed to do it before, but it depends on the design of the spray head. If there's an aerator in the center of the spray head, it may be possible, but some brands aren't a standard thread that's easy to find.

I used an aerator to quick disconnect type fitting (intended for counter top washers and dishwashers), as that moved the larger diameter garden hose thread further out from the molded plastic spray head.

 

[Nokie]

I would disconnect the cold line right at the fitting where it's labeled cold. See if that's 3/8 or 1/2". Get a copper "T" and attach it where you disconnected the could. One should face vertical and one should face towards the cupboard door. Attach a ball valve to each. Then attach your cold line for the sink to the vertical ball valve and the horizontal one would be for your chiller.

 

[timdillon36]

Are you talking about cutting the copper pipe and adding another valve? If so, that's what I'm trying to avoid.

I'd like to replace the current valve with a valve that has two 'exits'. I can find one of those. The problem I'm having is finding the parts to a.) add a shutoff on the second line and b.) find the right type of connections to get it to fit to the hose on the chiller.

That is exactly what i would do for several reasons. Better flow rate, easy to find fittings, and easy to install.

If you rent rather own i can understand why you want to do it the way you describe.

To do that i would shut off the cold and hot valves under the sink and remove the hose and take that with you to the hardware store of your choice and tell them what you are looking to do. It should be easy enough with parts in hand.

 

[idleclamp]

This is what I've been able to find at the hardware store. I'm really not interested in cutting a pipe. I'm sure I can find the right parts to make this work, I just don't know where to look. This is what I've been able to find at the store (at least one potential option). The brass fitting can go on the current cold water supply valve. And if I had to, I could use this valve for the chiller. The problem is that I can't find a coupler to attach the two. I'd really like to be simple to disconnect, but again, I can seem to solve this jigsaw puzzle. Where can I find the right parts?

 

[dyqik]

The output from the faucet shutoff should be a 3/8" compression fitting, I think. The tee you have there has the captive nut on it, and the thru arm should connect to the faucet line. The side arm needs a 3/8" compression fitting captive nut to connect to it (the chrome shut off you have there needs a 3/8" compression captive nut to connect directly). If you can't find such a thing, you can make up a short length of 3/8" pipe to connect to a side arm, and put 3/8" compression to NPT threaded, with a valve and garden hose adapter or hose barb on the other end.