Wiring assistance - single PID/SSR single kettle setup

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smoothlarryhughes said:
Actually I found this diagram showing a switch for the PID power...i'm assuming if the PID doesn't get power there is no way for the element to be powered...correct?

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/simple-electric-build-pros-276477/

Correct. Mine is wired similar with a switch to the PID and an override switch to the element as well. I can read temps without adjusting the set point to turn off the element.
 
Correct. Mine is wired similar with a switch to the PID and an override switch to the element as well. I can read temps without adjusting the set point to turn off the element.

do you have the diagram for your setup? i'd like to turn the panel off if needed. at first my setup will only be the boil kettle, but eventually i'd like to add the HLT as well.
 
No
But it's pretty much the same as posted with the additional inline switch. Maybe PJ can chime In with his expertise. I'm more of a hands on kinda guy.
 
Very simple question for the gang. Why is it necessary to have a switch for the pid? Is there a reason for this not to be powered up? I understand having a switch on element and pump for instance. But I cannot see the reason for having power to pid. Thanks.
 
Very simple question for the gang. Why is it necessary to have a switch for the pid? Is there a reason for this not to be powered up? I understand having a switch on element and pump for instance. But I cannot see the reason for having power to pid. Thanks.
I generally include a switch for the PID(s) to power it (them) down. This way the other functions available with the controller can be used without potential problems - like dry firing a heating element because a different function was not accounted for at the moment.

Other functions? The use of the pumps during your chilling process and moving the wort to the fermentor.

Hey: If you don't want to have it... No problem... Don't wire it... It is not a critical issue, just something I place to help prevent a disaster.

P-J
 
Jps101 said:
Very simple question for the gang. Why is it necessary to have a switch for the pid? Is there a reason for this not to be powered up? I understand having a switch on element and pump for instance. But I cannot see the reason for having power to pid. Thanks.

Not absolutely necessary. Why have a switch on your bedroom light? It could just stay on all the time. Unless your using the plug to shut it down. Which in case works but not the preferred way to terminate power.
Of coarse you could wire a single switch inline with the PID and the element.
This coming from a guy who has switches on switches. Cause I like to be double sure before activating power.
 
Kind of what I figured. But wanted to hear from those that have already done the work. Thanks to all of you for your collective assistance with these projects.
 
Im planning on copying psychs build and i saw this page posted to his BIAB build page. I love the diagram, even i can figure it out. The only difference is i want to add a plug for a pump, so from looking at the other diagram i can add a 10 amp fuse from line 1 to a switch to an outlet. Can i use regular light switches for the pump and PID power? and any reason why this wouldn't be a good idea? Thanks
 
Like this, and can i add a light to the pump between the switch and the outlet like the same as the light at the element? this is going to be perfect. oh forget the light switches, these switches are much cheaper then i expected. Thanks for all the info

PID Pump.jpg
 
Yeah I actually wired in a regular power socket, just split off one of the hot legs and the neutral and ground. So I now have a power socket on my box-o-power for my fan.

I'd presume a pump would be the same, not like some crazy amperage needs. And therefore any switch that met the amperage requirements of the pump (or pid) would work for you.

One thing I'd watch for is a light wired in series (I think) between the switch and the pump or whatever. It didn't work for me between my switch and my SSR, though that may be something weird with the SSR. But you can totally just split off the 'out' from the switch, sorta. So in parallel your switch when turned on will send power on one set of wires to your light, and on another set of wires to your pump or whatever. Same end result, when pump has power so does the light, just not wired in series.

But hey I'm FAR from an electrician so it may just work in series, who knows :)
 
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