What temperature is right again?

[Nyle]

Hello everyone,

I've been reading a lot of different posts about temperature and other information on the Internet. Overall it has left me more than a little confused at how to know what the ideal external temperature is for a particular brew. Being a beginner I am starting with HMEs and slowly modifying them as a base.

Right now I'm mainly using Mr. Beer HMEs as a base and recipes on their site. They seem to be using a Mr. Beer specific ale yeast for most of their HME brews but some of the specialty recipes do come with other known yeasts. Mr. Beer also lists a wide range of temperatures on most of their kits from 65-76F, obviously variations within that range.

I read that the fermentation typically generates heat 5-10F. So once my yeast is pitched into the warm but not hot wort, I was thinking of waiting a few hours and doing all my fermenting in my basement.

So after all that set up here's my question, My basement during spring varies from 65F-71F(2F degrees colder by the floor) depending on if it's cold(55F) or hot outside(80F). During the summer the basement is pretty consistent at 71F When temperature swings it slowly goes up or down over 24-48 hours. Is this the best spot for my brews?

Right now I've been carrying them upstairs into the low 70s and downstairs when the temperature rises so the basement moderates to low 70s. I'm getting tired.

I understand that as I progress I'm going to want to set up some form of temperature control in the basement but with these brews could I just leave them in the basement even when it gets down to 65F?

 

[wilserbrewer]

I'm not familiar with the yeast you mention, but most ale yeast does well fermenting at wort temps of 65, since fermentation produces heat, a good ambient compromise would be 60 IMO.

From what little information you have given, I would guess your fermenting too warm. Also worth mentioning, the early stages of fermentation are the most important, for this reason it is typically preferred to pitch cool and let the temp rise a little.

Ferm temps are an involved discussion, so I only have skimmed the basics.

So once my yeast is pitched into the warm but not hot wort, I was thinking of waiting a few hours and doing all my fermenting in my basement.

You want to pitch yeast typically at the low end of the temp range, NOT warm!!!
I agree, your basement sounds best, dont worry about slight fluctuating temps during the day so much, your beer is a large mass and won't fluctuate much if any on a daily basis. Colder is better IMO. I would pitch low to mid sixties and ferment in the basement.

Long range plan I would brew, ferment and keg in the basement

 

[unionrdr]

I agree about fermenting in the basement, maybe on the floor, as it's 2 degrees cooler than the ambient 71F down there. But it's the internal fermenter temps we concern ourselves most with. That directly affects the beer. And since Cooper's owns Mr Beer now, the kits could be using Cooper's ale yeast, which gets sluggish at 63F. It works ok @ 64F, but seems to prefer 65F. It also works as well as US-05 if rehydrated first, from my experiments.

 

[javaking]

I agree with other posts that your best bet is to just leave it on your basement floor for now. No need to keep moving it throughout the day.

I understand that as I progress I'm going to want to set up some form of temperature control in the basement but with these brews could I just leave them in the basement even when it gets down to 65F?

I know you say that you are going to hold off on getting a temperature controller for now. However, I suggest you get something sooner rather than later. Having higher temps will definitely contribute to significant off-flavors. While you might save money now by not getting a temperature controller setup, the beers you make in the mean time may not turn out the way you hope. It is just better to invest now and get something that will ensure proper fermentation temps and increase the likelihood that you make great beer! As I'm sure you know you can find refrigerators for very cheap on craigslist (around $50). Then the temperature controller unit (STC-1000 or whatever) will be another $30.

 

[Nyle]

I agree about fermenting in the basement, maybe on the floor, as it's 2 degrees cooler than the ambient 71F down there. But it's the internal fermenter temps we concern ourselves most with. That directly affects the beer. And since Cooper's owns Mr Beer now, the kits could be using Cooper's ale yeast, which gets sluggish at 63F. It works ok @ 64F, but seems to prefer 65F. It also works as well as US-05 if rehydrated first, from my experiments.

Thanks everyone. I really appreciate the advice. Especially knowing that this is likely an often asked question for beginners.

The Mr. Beer(Coopers) site says the following on the common yeast they use:
"Our dry brewing yeast is a hardy, flocculent, and temperature robust yeast. When purchasing any of Mr. Beer's delicious brewing extracts, this yeast is included under the lid. Temperature Range: 68°-76° F."

I was worried that the Wort would get below 65F in the basement, when it's cooler as it is right now in the basement. Does that yeast sound like it would ferment ok from pitch to end if the wort does get to say 64F?

Mr. Beer has you put a gallon of cold water into the fermenter, then put in your hot 4 cups+HME(wort) then basically another gallon of cold water and pitch the yeast. The wort feels about room temperature once mixed like that. I will invest in some inexpensive thermometers that I can attach to the outside of the plastic carboys. Am I correct in thinking that being mid 70s would be ok to dry pitch? I know that rehydrating seems to be preferred by many and I'll get there but dry pitching seems to be working ok. I've done 2 batches so far that have tasted reasonable good.

On a related but separate note. Does anyone submerge a temperature sensor through the bung into the wort itself and then tie that to a temperature regulation system or is the risk of infection too great?

It is nice to see how open the brewing community is to those who are just starting to learn. I really appreciate the time.

 

[slym2none]

If you are using the Mr. Beer LBK, it fits in a standard cooler, which not only can help protect from swings in the temperature (if you are worried about such) but you can also place frozen bottles of water in there to help regulate the temperature. I find that two 2-liter bottles, filled 1/2 to 2/3 of the way with water & then frozen, will keep ambient air temps around 57-58° F. One of those will keep ambient air temps around 64-65. Right now, this is what I do. I actually use the two large bottle approach while primary fermentation is going, as that's when the wort will be at its warmest, and then use the 1-bottle approach for the rest of the time as the wort itself isn't as active. You can always use either varying amounts of ice in the bottle, or even smaller 20-oz. soda bottles, to fine-tune your cooler's internal temps.

Oh, and what these guys are saying about pitching temps is very true. My first batch, I pitched with the wort still warm, and while fermentation really took off, my finished beer has an oddly "sweet" taste to it that no amount of time (so far) has conditioned out. Pitch cool, and keep even the MrB/Coopers yeast brews cool.

 

[Nyle]

If you are using the Mr. Beer LBK, it fits in a standard cooler, which not only can help protect from swings in the temperature (if you are worried about such) but you can also place frozen bottles of water in there to help regulate the temperature.

Oh, and what these guys are saying about pitching temps is very true. My first batch, I pitched with the wort still warm, and while fermentation really took off, my finished beer has an oddly "sweet" taste to it that no amount of time (so far) has conditioned out. Pitch cool, and keep even the MrB/Coopers yeast brews cool.

I'm actually using recyclable 4 gallon plastic water bottles with bungs and air locks. I sanitize with Starsan as per multiple discussions on here. I use my fermenters one time and them toss them in the recycling and start with a fresh one.

I use my LBK for bottling now, it's handy to siphon from the carboy to the LBK, put in the priming sugar and bottle. It seems to be working well so far.

I will start pitching cooler using the glass wort thermometer that I just picked up at my local Ace Hardware. I've ordered some stick on thermometers to get a rough idea of wort temperature during the ferment.

I am going to use the basement and start pitching cooler than Mr. Beers directions suggest. I still think that I will hold off on the temperature control until I can get something a little more expansive than individual refrigerators set up. I'd like to run 4 x 2-3 gallon brews and later add a 6 gallon in there for brews that I really like. I'll get the temperatures down since Based on what each of you has said I can see that my yeast is getting active way too quickly. Good thing that I don't mind a little bit of banana esters in my beer for now.

Certainly going to learn from the advice given. Thank you again.

 

[Calder]

I'm actually using recyclable 4 gallon plastic water bottles with bungs and air locks.

Here is a simple, easy and cheap way to get some control of the temperature if you are using those bottles. Not perfect, but will be a huge improvement over what you have today.

Get a large plastic tub ($5 from Walmart/Meijer/etc), much larger diameter than your fermenter.

When you have filled your fermenter, place it in the plastic tub. Then fill the plastic tub with cold water to about the same level as the fermenter, and just leave it alone.

I'd place it in the basement.

There will be more water in the tub than in the fermenter. The cold water will help cool the wort quickly and when the beer is fermenting will act as a heat sink to pull the heat out of the fermenter.

If your room is 65 F, the water temp will eventually stabilize at 65 F, and the beer will stay around 65 too for the whole fermentation, maybe reach 66.

If your room is at 70 F, it will prevent the beer temperature from getting too high, by pulling the heat out of the actively fermenting beer and keeping the beer temp around 70/71.

Often referred to as a swamp cooler.

Now, if you want to get fancy, you can heat the water with a fish tank heater, or cool it with frozen water filled bottles. But for most beers, just filling it with cold water should work fine.

 

[unionrdr]

Thanks everyone. I really appreciate the advice. Especially knowing that this is likely an often asked question for beginners.

The Mr. Beer(Coopers) site says the following on the common yeast they use:
"Our dry brewing yeast is a hardy, flocculent, and temperature robust yeast. When purchasing any of Mr. Beer's delicious brewing extracts, this yeast is included under the lid. Temperature Range: 68°-76° F."

I was worried that the Wort would get below 65F in the basement, when it's cooler as it is right now in the basement. Does that yeast sound like it would ferment ok from pitch to end if the wort does get to say 64F?

Mr. Beer has you put a gallon of cold water into the fermenter, then put in your hot 4 cups+HME(wort) then basically another gallon of cold water and pitch the yeast. The wort feels about room temperature once mixed like that. I will invest in some inexpensive thermometers that I can attach to the outside of the plastic carboys. Am I correct in thinking that being mid 70s would be ok to dry pitch? I know that rehydrating seems to be preferred by many and I'll get there but dry pitching seems to be working ok. I've done 2 batches so far that have tasted reasonable good.

On a related but separate note. Does anyone submerge a temperature sensor through the bung into the wort itself and then tie that to a temperature regulation system or is the risk of infection too great?

It is nice to see how open the brewing community is to those who are just starting to learn. I really appreciate the time.

Cooper's ale yeast is a high flocculation one. 64F is about minimum from my experiences, & 76F would give more of the non-descript fruit esters this yeast produces. 65-68F or so minimizes this effect. pitching dry mid-70's would not be a good idea. Dry pitching in general isn't a good idea, as it shocks the dry yeast cells & can have up to a 50% mortality rate. Rehydration in 90F or so water, & pitching at within 10 degrees of current wort temp will make for a lot healthier yeast pitch. It'll start visibly fermenting faster & finish quicker. Cooper's yeast can be a beast rehydrated & settles out vety clear.

 

[Nyle]

Ok now I feel relatively silly. Using a larger mass of water makes so much sense and it's simple. On top of that I already have all the things to make that happen including an aquarium heater of large size. I'm going to give that a try. I assume using distilled water with starsan and it would probably be a good idea just to keep everything sanitized in the area.

It seems to me that starts and lasts a very long time if you put it in distilled water and don't add any gunk to it have you found this to be the case as well? It looks like I'm going to be upgrading my setup sooner than I thought. This forum is an amazing resource thanks guys.

Update: As recommended by several people, I've already set up a better temperature control for my 4 gallon carboys. I set up a two large plastic totes to hold my 4 x 2 gallon batches in the basement. I filled them with water to where the carboys just started to gain a little buoyancy and waited until they were 65F before leaving the carboys in them. (Knowing that the yeast doesn't like lower) The ambient temperature was 68-69F today down there. It'll be a bit less now that I unplugged a large old dehumidifier that I didn't realize someone had plugged in. I wondered why the basement was warmer than normal. My 30-60 gallon 200w aquarium water heaters are ready to connect up(old hobby of mine) once I build my controllers from the STC100 110V temperature controllers I purchased. Now I can keep the temperature from going to low for the yeast. Thanks everyone.

One last question if I haven't used up all my quota. Is a chest freezer the least expensive option for doing a traditional lager without constantly putting ice packs into a swamp cooler? I was looking for a way to automatically cool the water but Peltier diodes are expensive. I did see the Kickstarter for one that connects right into a 6 gallon carboy but again for the cost($299) I can get a chest freezer with temperature controller. Thanks again. I already have a better set up because you all took the time to share your experiences.

 

[unionrdr]

Putting some Starsan in the cooler water would be a good idea to keep it cleaner anyway.

 

[BigRob]

I wouldn't waste the money filling the swamp cooler with distilled water though, its going to get dirty, and stuff will even grow in bleach water, so starsan isn't going to stop it.

 

[Calder]

I'm going to give that a try. I assume using distilled water with starsan and it would probably be a good idea just to keep everything sanitized in the area.

It seems to me that starts and lasts a very long time if you put it in distilled water and don't add any gunk to it have you found this to be the case as well? It looks like I'm going to be upgrading my setup sooner than I thought. Thin forum is an amazing resource thanks guys.

Use cold water straight out of the tap and don't waste money on Starsan or distilled water. I usually put a small amount of bleach in the water. A really small amount, maybe a tablespoon in 10+ gallons of water; not trying to sanitize anything, just stopping anything from growing over a couple of weeks.

 

[Nyle]

So the Coopers ale yeast sounds like 68F would be good. Is that roughly a good temperature for most ale brews? I know some other brews like less. But for these beginner Mr. Beer brews most all use that same yeast.

I know traditional loggers can require 50F.

I'm setting up my swamp cooler now.

 

[slym2none]

Well, each yeast has its own range of temps it likes, and most people go for around the mid-point, or a little lower. US-05 seems to like mid-60s, while Nottingham likes low-60s, and apparently will work even around 58.

I brewed with Coopers yeast my first batch ever, and kept the wort around 64-66° F. It came out fine.

 

[unionrdr]

Yeah, in my experiences, Cooper's ale yeast likes 65-68F. It's a beast when you rehydrate the 6g packets. Midwest & Northern Brewer sell the Cooper's ale yeast in 15g packets that are fresher.

 

[Nyle]

Cooper's ale yeast is a high flocculation one. 64F is about minimum from my experiences, & 76F would give more of the non-descript fruit esters this yeast produces. 65-68F or so minimizes this effect. pitching dry mid-70's would not be a good idea. Dry pitching in general isn't a good idea, as it shocks the dry yeast cells & can have up to a 50% mortality rate. Rehydration in 90F or so water, & pitching at within 10 degrees of current wort temp will make for a lot healthier yeast pitch. It'll start visibly fermenting faster & finish quicker. Cooper's yeast can be a beast rehydrated & settles out vety clear.

LOL! *Tongue in check with a big, big smile* Ok, ok, you've convinced me... along with everyone else who understands yeast far better than I.

I understand that Mr. Beer's instructions are only intended for a beginner and not really a good practice. Even with their custom ale yeast as you mention. I will say that even with this not being recommended and my fermenting to warm the two batches I've made so far came out tasting reasonably well. So their recipes and yeast must at least be pretty forgiving to my novice mistakes.

I've got good thermometers so I can certain heat water to 90F, add the yeast and then wait until it cools to 10 degrees of the wort. So if I plan on an ideal of 68F for coopers ale yeast fermentation I should get the wort down to 68F prior to pitching and 68F-77F for the yeast temperature, just to make sure I've got it. Any need to add sugar or anything to feed the yeast while it hydrates and cools?

I'll check the temperature recommendations for each yeast type I use. I just started looking at other kinds due to the recipes on Mr. Beers site.

Thanks again.

 

[BigRob]

You need to sanitize the water you rehydrate with, boiling then cooling is the easiest method. Do not use RO or Distilled water for this, as it will kill the majority of the cells.

Then rehydrate the yeast in 95-105F sanitized water, let sit 30 minutes, then add it to your wort when the wort is 68F or lower.

Keep the water bath at 68F with frozen bottles or other methods, the first 48 hours from when you pitch the yeast is the most important time to keep that water bath cooled to 68F or lower.

 

[HB_in_Subic]

This is how I rehydrate my yeast;

1. Boil 100ml of tap water, then cool to 80s
2. Pour yeast onto water (do not stir)
3. Let sit for 10 minutes
4. Add a couple of spoonfuls of cooled wort and swirl
5. Wait 15 minutes until signs of activity, pitch into wort

 

[bigdaddybrew]

Dude don't sweat it...literally. Just leave it in your basement. A cool basement is a good place to ferment. I have produced good ales at the temps you describe. Extra fruity esters but good none the less. Coopers Ale yeast is good at the temps in your basement. If your Basement gets warmer in the summer try a Wheat beer yeast or Belgian yeast where some phenols and funkiness fit right in. The swamp cooler can really help if funky beers is not your thing.

 

[unionrdr]

LOL! *Tongue in check with a big, big smile* Ok, ok, you've convinced me... along with everyone else who understands yeast far better than I.

I understand that Mr. Beer's instructions are only intended for a beginner and not really a good practice. Even with their custom ale yeast as you mention. I will say that even with this not being recommended and my fermenting to warm the two batches I've made so far came out tasting reasonably well. So their recipes and yeast must at least be pretty forgiving to my novice mistakes.

I've got good thermometers so I can certain heat water to 90F, add the yeast and then wait until it cools to 10 degrees of the wort. So if I plan on an ideal of 68F for coopers ale yeast fermentation I should get the wort down to 68F prior to pitching and 68F-77F for the yeast temperature, just to make sure I've got it. Any need to add sugar or anything to feed the yeast while it hydrates and cools?

I'll check the temperature recommendations for each yeast type I use. I just started looking at other kinds due to the recipes on Mr. Beers site.

Thanks again.

Keep the initial fermentation temps to 65-68F. The reproductive phase, right before initial, vigorous fermentation starts, is when they now say off-flavors begin rising up to sufficient PPM's for us to sense them. I use jugs of spring water for the rehydrating, as well as the mash, sparge, etc. The jugs are sealed till I use'em, so just nuking the rehydrate water to temp has been fine for me. In my opinion, boiling the dissolved o2 out of the rehydrate water would be a bad thing in terms of rehydrating the yeast's cell walls & getting them vigorous again?

 

[BigRob]

It's more about the dissolved solids and osmotic pressure when it comes to rehydrating, as the yeast are dried with plenty of nutrients to become active and ready to ferment. It's most important that your source of water is sanitized, if you trust bottled water to be sanitary, then by all means use it. I can't see how dissolved O2 is important for rehydration, as your wort should be oxygenated plenty.

 

[unionrdr]

But it seems to me since they say o2 is important during the reproductive phase, then giving them some o2 during rehydration would improve their health for the next phase, which is reproduction in the wort?

 

[javaking]

One last question if I haven't used up all my quota. Is a chest freezer the least expensive option for doing a traditional lager without constantly putting ice packs into a swamp cooler? I was looking for a way to automatically cool the water but Peltier diodes are expensive. I did see the Kickstarter for one that connects right into a 6 gallon carboy but again for the cost($299) I can get a chest freezer with temperature controller. Thanks again. I already have a better set up because you all took the time to share your experiences.

Chest freezers are good because you have the space to ferment multiple vessels at once. You can get away with a decent sized mini-fridge (that's what I currently use), however you're limited to one bucket/carboy at a time. The chest freezer is definitely superior, but it depends on how much money you want to spend and how much extra space you have. I just looked on my local craigslist and found a few chest freezers for $150 just to give you some perspective. Mini-fridges you can find for $50.

Cheers!

 

[BigRob]

They're rehydrating, there's not much (if any) reproduction happening in that 20 minutes, also there's very little dissolved oxygen remaining once the water temp creeps up to 35-40C anyway.

 

[unionrdr]

Not to mention, how high you can lift 5 gallons of beer to get it up & out of a chest freezer.

 

[javaking]

Haha lifting the buckets out will be a good muscle building exercise.

 

[unionrdr]

It is kind of like deadlifting...

 

[BigRob]

The chest freezer isn't something I'd make a habit of using for fermentation without a hoist or some other way to keep your back out of danger on the removal. Buckets might work better but carboys in a milk crate are definitely hard on the back, even if you stack another milk crate under it to raise it higher in the freezer.

 

[unionrdr]

They're rehydrating, there's not much (if any) reproduction happening in that 20 minutes, also there's very little dissolved oxygen remaining once the water temp creeps up to 35-40C anyway.

Rehydrating PDF's typically state 30 minutes, but heating only to 90F or so isn't going to remove most of the dissolved oxygen. Boiling at 212F for a 1 hour boil definitely will remove most of the dissolved o2. Not much reproduction happens in the rehydration phase, true. But you're preparing them for that phase, which is next. I like to give them every chance I can to do a great job.

 

[BigRob]

I've always used ~105F as specified by Dr Clayton Cone, of Lalvin Yeast. It won't remove all the oxygen true, but as temp increase the O2 comes out of solution, just like CO2 and warm beer.

https://koehlerbeer.wordpress.com/2008/06/07/rehydrating-dry-yeast-with-dr-clayton-cone/

... Let me give you some facts regarding rehydration and you can decide for
yourself where you want to compromise.
Every strain of yeast has its own optimum rehydration temperature. All of
them range between 95 F to 105F. Most of them closer to 105F. The dried
yeast cell wall is fragile and it is the first few minutes (possibly
seconds) of rehydration that the warm temperature is critical while it is
reconstituting its cell wall structure.

As you drop the initial temperature of the water from 95 to 85 or 75 or 65F
the yeast leached out more and more of its insides damaging the each cell.
The yeast viability also drops proportionally. At 95 – 105 F, there is
100% recovery of the viable dry yeast. At 60F, there can be as much as 60%
dead cells.

The water should be tap water with the normal amount of hardness present.
The hardness is essential for good recovery. 250 -500 ppm hardness is
ideal. This means that deionized or distilled water should not be used.
Ideally, the warm rehydration water should contain about 0.5 – 1.0% yeast
extract

For the initial few minutes (perhaps seconds) of rehydration, the yeast
cell wall cannot differentiate what passes through the wall. Toxic
materials like sprays, hops, SO2 and sugars in high levels, that the yeast
normally can selectively keep from passing through its cell wall rush right
in and seriously damage the cells. The moment that the cell wall is
properly reconstituted, the yeast can then regulate what goes in and out of
the cell. That is why we hesitate to recommend rehydration in wort or
must. Very dilute wort seems to be OK.

We recommend that the rehydrated yeast be added to the wort within 30
minutes. We have built into each cell a large amount of glycogen and
trehalose that give the yeast a burst of energy to kick off the growth
cycle when it is in the wort. It is quickly used up if the yeast is
rehydrated for more than 30 minutes. There is no damage done here if it is
not immediatly add to the wort. You just do not get the added benefit of
that sudden burst of energy ...

 

[unionrdr]

I'd have to dig up all the PDF's from the manufacturers of the yeasts I've used, but not all are 95F & up. Lalvin's maybe? Anyway, when I rehydrate at, say, 90-93F for 30 minutes & pitch into wort with 10 degrees of each other, the beer finishes quicker & tastes better when kept at optimal temps for initial fermentation. My 2c worth from my own observations... We also must remember that their finding come from clean-room labs & such. Our humble breweries aren't anywhere near those.

 

[BigRob]

Just shows both methods work, warmed up spring water, or boiled and cooled water, as long as it's sanitary you're good to go. I definitely agree that the most important part of it all is rehydrating the dried yeast, as you lose too many cells sprinkling onto wort.

 

[unionrdr]

Yeah, it's looking like both have merit, from what I've read vs what I've observed personally. I don't try to troll in such discussions, it's just that what I've done works. I just try to gain a better understanding of why over time. If that makes any sense?...That lil buzz from that Irish red sample is nice...

 

[Nyle]

Not to mention, how high you can lift 5 gallons of beer to get it up & out of a chest freezer.

LOL! Well I'm 6' 5" and built like a line backer so I'd say all the way out but point taken. LOL!

 

[Nyle]

Just shows both methods work, warmed up spring water, or boiled and cooled water, as long as it's sanitary you're good to go. I definitely agree that the most important part of it all is rehydrating the dried yeast, as you lose too many cells sprinkling onto wort.

Debates like this are the reason why I was just following Mr. Beer's directions. While fully acknowledging that they are less than ideally using their yeast.

I'm thinking that since I use spring water to dilute my boiled HME(wort) back to 2 gallons+2 cups, that it might be just fine if I just warm a little up in a sanitized cup as described for the rehydrate. So about 1/2 cup warmed to 90-95F and then put the yeast into it, wait until it cools to within 10 degrees of the wort temperature.

I'm thinking that $150 for a chest freezer isn't that expensive for room to do multiple carboys at once. I can also put a lifter on the top of the carboy to lift them from the neck when/if I go to 6 gallon glass. I've ordered the parts for two STC1000 controller builds so I'll be able to control the temperature of the swamp cooler as far as getting too cold and a chest freezer from getting too hot.

Well on my way to an improved process. I've already implemented some of the ideas on this thread and I'm working on implementing the rest. I've got 4 2 gallon batches going right now and once they are bottled, I've got more to start with the new methods.

I'm trying some lagers as soon as I can get a chest freezer, now I wish I had taken my friends for free when he got rid of it. D'OH.

Thanks everyone for all the advice..

 

[BigRob]

Do not use "lifter" handles on full carboys, they are only designed for empty one. You will crack the neck and lose all your wort, maybe injure yourself severely or die.

 

[unionrdr]

At least get it down to within the yeast's prefered fermentation range.

 

[slym2none]

Jiunbiun is a spammer... quote his post & see.

 

[PlexVector]

Jiunbiun is a spammer... quote his post & see.

He has embedded beacons in his post!

So once my yeast is pitched into the warm but not hot wort, I was thinking of waiting a few hours and doing all my fermenting in my basement.[_img_]_http_://loanwebfast.com/green/images/42.gif[/_img_] [_img_]_http_://financehotela.com/yellow/images/109.gif[/_img]