For the most part, I get Hoch-Kurz is mashing 'high/short'. So, how could this be applied to those who are propane based and still use a cooler? For reference, my rig has two burner for the boil and hlt, and my cooler (if it matters) has a stainless liner, I just can't direct fire it.
1 So, how could this be applied to cooler style mash tuns?
2 Does this conflict anyway with modern style mashing (30-40 min single infusions and 30 min boils)?
3) German term, so German only ingredients? (lame question, but lead in into....)
On another note, I ordered some Briess Pilsen malt. Can I....
4) still make good German style beers with American grains (pilsen, vienna, etc)?
5) Do I need to decoct for these styles?
6) Is Melanoidin malt a requirement if you can't do a decoction?
Not to sound like "that guy", but the local store I go to had some Pilsner Urquell, which I have tried and never looked back (sipping on some now). This beer and Founder's All Day IPA are my two favs right now, so wonder if Hoch-Kurz could be (should be?) implemented if I were to try to clone these two beers.
Sorry for the questions. I saw this term in another thread and the (square) wheels in my head are turning.....
Good questions, all.
1) So, how could this be applied to cooler style mash tuns?
My Ans: Not easily, but it can be done. Frankly, step mashing is what convinced me to go to the all-in-one machines about 10 years ago. Unfortunately, $$$$. I treated myself to a retirement toy to expand this hobby to a full time obsession. I never really tried step mashing in coolers though did do some BIAB attempts by pulling the bag after a first step, heating the wort and re-submerging the grain bag. Hard to accurately hit target temperatures though, so I abandoned the method. Since I never found a solid workable (for me) method, I'll leave it to others to chime in with recommendations.
2) Does this conflict anyway with modern style mashing (30-40 min single infusions and 30 min boils)?
My Ans: It's all about the enzymes (primarily Alpha and Beta amylase) and maximizing time spent at each enzyme's most active temperature for a sufficient amount of time, before increasing temperature of the mash to the next enzyme's most efficient temperature, without exceeding the desired temperature, which will degrade and even denature that enzyme and prevent it from doing it's task. A single-infusion mash selects a compromise temperature which will allow both Beta and Alpha amylase enzymes to accomplish their tasks, but doesn't fully achieve the maximum beneficial result of either enzyme. Single-infusion mashes are effective and certainly are fine with modern highly modified grains. Step mashing simply raises it to a higher level (by some opinions) by maximizing Beta (fermentability)
and Alpha (mouthfeel), rather than only focusing on one parameter. The length of boil doesn't really come into play with the mash, but of course does affect the characteristics of the final wort that goes into the fermenter in ways that are generally separate from mashing techniques.
3) German term, so German only ingredients? (lame question, but lead in into....)
My Ans: Valid question, but 'no'. American grains offer the same characteristics and are affected in the same ways as German grains. In fact, many domestic grains are more highly modified and have higher diastatic power than Continental grains, meaning they can more easily and completely convert starches into sugars during mashing. So do German grains benefit more than domestic grains by step mashing? Traditionalists and many maltsters would say 'yes', but does this opinion rest on tradition instead of science? Probably a mix of both. Great beers are made with single infusion mashes. Some think step mashes make better beers. I fall in the latter grouping, probably because I have the ability to do them without going to extreme measures. Domestic or Continental grains, does it matter? I don't think the enzymes really care as long as they have sufficient environment (solubility and temperature) as well as time to accomplish their tasks.
4) still make good German style beers with American grains (pilsen, vienna, etc)?
My Ans: The difference is between "good" and "great", and I'll fall in line with the traditionalists here. If I'm brewing a German lager, I'm goin' with German grains. And German hops. Doesn't mean you can't make a really quaffable German beer with Briess grains and Yakima-grown hop varietals derived from German Nobles. Nevertheless, I'm going the extra mile with ingredients. But even if you go with domestic ingredients, I still feel you'll come out ahead by doing a step mash.
5) Do I need to decoct for these styles?
My Ans: Here I disagree
mildly with the traditionalists. Using fresh, high quality ingredients coupled with a proper step mash can avoid the necessity of a detoction mash. Don't tell my German friends, however. I won't say it's superfluous or excessive because it's
not. I just think that, for me, the extra work and the mess of detoction has diminishing return value. Most of my step mashed lagers are sufficiently malty for my tastes. If my grains are a bit past their prime or if a previous iteration of a recipe seemed a bit lacking in that area, I'll adjust with a tiny amount (2~4 oz, max. in a 7 gallon batch) of melanoidin malt to the grist, and that does the trick. I'm not lazy, I'm just work averse!
6) Is Melanoidin malt a requirement if you can't do a decoction?
My Ans: It's not
needed but melanoidin can make a positive improvement in bringing malt flavors and aromas to an un-detocted mash. The hidden trick is not using too much. For my tastes a 2~4 oz addition is plenty to make an improvement in a 12# grist/7 gal. batch. Some people add more but that's too much for my palate. A little goes a long way IMHO. Use too much and it will overpower the finished beer.
Hope these answers (my 'opinions') helped to lift the fog a bit. And remember my mantra, "Others' opinions may differ, and that's alright, but the only dumb questions are the ones that go unasked!"
I am joking, of course. If you ask do you "need" to decoct then I would say no. If you are not totally happy with the end result or just want to tinker then give it a try. I typically don't because to my palette it's not worth the extra effort. Your mileage may vary.
