BrewerRick
Active Member
npauley88,
Here is how I attached my burners...
Here is how I attached my burners...
Weldless brew stand.
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johnodon
Well-Known Member
I was actually going to ask this question and then saw Mike's comment above. Has anyone had any issue with NOT using lock washers (sincethey are not provided in the bag of hardware)?
Regardless, I think I am still going to add them to the build. My next question would be if the bolts are long enough to accommodate the lock washers. Since Mike used them I assume there is plenty of length but just wanted to ask.
TIA,
John
Thanks for everyone I PM'd with questions, you all have been very helpful! 
just wanted to post a picture of my build so far:
I haven't decided yet if I want to drop the $40 on the corner pieces yet, I am a poor college student after all and if I change my mind, McMaster Carr is about 30 min away.
I just mounted the casters that I got on the cheap from Surplus Center. Had to drill a couple extra holes but no biggy. Only problem with them is that they don't lock very well.
The 3' lengths of propane hoses just came in today and I attached them to the 1/2" black iron pipe that I have yet to secure to the stand.
Still waiting on some needle valves, a regulator, a pair of chugger pumps and a plate chiller and I'll be all set!
just wanted to post a picture of my build so far:
I haven't decided yet if I want to drop the $40 on the corner pieces yet, I am a poor college student after all and if I change my mind, McMaster Carr is about 30 min away.
I just mounted the casters that I got on the cheap from Surplus Center. Had to drill a couple extra holes but no biggy. Only problem with them is that they don't lock very well.
The 3' lengths of propane hoses just came in today and I attached them to the 1/2" black iron pipe that I have yet to secure to the stand.
Still waiting on some needle valves, a regulator, a pair of chugger pumps and a plate chiller and I'll be all set!
No I have not had any issues in the areas where I did not use lock washers. In the areas where I did use them (when I attached the casters and on corners to maintain 90 degree angle over time) they fit on the bolts fine even with a fender washer on the other side.
Get your casters from Harbour Freight (sp?) or other such discount store. All you need is a hundred pound casters (the math on that is divide total weight by four and that is the caster you need per corner)...so simply put hundred pound caster on each corner can support four hundred pounds, two hundred pound caster on each corner can support total of eight hundred pounds. I got the hundred pound four inch casters with locks for five bucks each. Like the previous poster I also had to drill extra holes but big deal.
In any case I highly recommend the lock washers.
jmp781
Well-Known Member
Thanks for everyone I PM'd with questions, you all have been very helpful!
just wanted to post a picture of my build so far:
I haven't decided yet if I want to drop the $40 on the corner pieces yet, I am a poor college student after all and if I change my mind, McMaster Carr is about 30 min away.
I just mounted the casters that I got on the cheap from Surplus Center. Had to drill a couple extra holes but no biggy. Only problem with them is that they don't lock very well.
The 3' lengths of propane hoses just came in today and I attached them to the 1/2" black iron pipe that I have yet to secure to the stand.
Still waiting on some needle valves, a regulator, a pair of chugger pumps and a plate chiller and I'll be all set!
Stand is looking good, I'm to the same stage in my build as you. Where did you order the 3' propane hoses from?
sorry for the delayed response.
i got mine from eBay
http://cgi.ebay.com/RV-LP-Propane-Hose-3-8-X-36-/150555454938?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item230dcdedda#ht_500wt_1156
Hi all,
I am planning to start my own build this week, but I am nervous about the use of galvanized steel and the potential for toxic fumes from the zinc plating. I have read fleeting references to "burning the finish off" and I just want to make sure of how to do that. I was assuming that I just set the burner(s) going for a while in a ventilated area, but how long should I let them go before I don't have to worry about it anymore?
Thanks.
I am planning to start my own build this week, but I am nervous about the use of galvanized steel and the potential for toxic fumes from the zinc plating. I have read fleeting references to "burning the finish off" and I just want to make sure of how to do that. I was assuming that I just set the burner(s) going for a while in a ventilated area, but how long should I let them go before I don't have to worry about it anymore?
Thanks.
Strongbad52
Well-Known Member
I just filled the kegs with about 10 gallons of water and kept the burners going till i got a good boil going. about half way through you can smell the zinc burning off, which was when i vacated the garage. I spent the rest of the time watching from the driveway. You can tell when the zinc is burned off because the steel gets a chalky, oxidized look where it has burned off.
That was my process for the zinc burn off. I did that and then the next day i did a back to back brewday to break in the stand and i didn't have any issues with fumes.
That was my process for the zinc burn off. I did that and then the next day i did a back to back brewday to break in the stand and i didn't have any issues with fumes.
ciphersoft
New Member
Hey all I really enjoyed reading this thread. My buddy and I are ready to make the jump to all grain and this seems the way to go for those on a tight budget. For those of you that have a fully built system what was your total expense? Thanks in advance.
Jbell
Jbell
I'm having problems getting enough power to my burners.
I'm using a 15 psi regulator (non adjustable) to power 2 - low pressure 6" banjo burners from agri supply.
the regulator is 3/8" that connects to a 1/2" black iron pipe. the pipe has 2 needle valves that have 3/8" propane hoses connected.
has anyone run into a similar problem? My flame is pathetic when i have both running.
please and thanks!
I'm using a 15 psi regulator (non adjustable) to power 2 - low pressure 6" banjo burners from agri supply.
the regulator is 3/8" that connects to a 1/2" black iron pipe. the pipe has 2 needle valves that have 3/8" propane hoses connected.
has anyone run into a similar problem? My flame is pathetic when i have both running.
please and thanks!
Biscostew
Well-Known Member
i went a slightly different route with my stand, same setup except i didnt use black iron pipe as I wasn't comftorable with my minimal skills and propane, seemed like a potentially dangerous combo. What I did was go to http://www.tejassmokers.com/ and baught a 2 to 1 propane connector and a 1 to 1 propane connector, I have two tanks and plenty of power to run my 180k btu burners.
Pauly I suggest checking out http://www.tejassmokers.com/, you probably need the green regulator fitting.
Pauly I suggest checking out http://www.tejassmokers.com/, you probably need the green regulator fitting.
Hi guys, I'm planning building a weldless stand but space is an issue so I wondered if there would be anything wrong with putting 2 sets of casters on it and designing it so that 2 keggles would fit upright inside when it's standing on it's end as shown in the picture?
Also, if I want to paint the frame, do I burn off the zinc coating FIRST and then paint? Or paint before ever using it? Do I need to prime it or just the high temp paint? 2 coats?
Thanks a lot.
Steve
Mike_A
Well-Known Member
I don't know about the paint, but as far as the casters on the side so you can tip it upright, I would be concerned about the heat. I use banjos, and I know that on my weldless stand, the area you have the casters drawn get extremely warm. You would need some sort of heat shielding for that to potentially work, my 2c.
BrewerRick
Active Member
I painted mine with a couple coats of the high temp prior to using it. The paint held up well.
BrewerRick
BrewerRick
mtlmeister
New Member
I flipped through most of the thread and I don't think I saw any, but has anyone made a three tiered system with the slotted steel? I'd prefer to avoid pumps but I want to make sure ahead of time that it's even possible and the stand will be stable enough. Thanks ahead of time for anynreplies
Yeah mine is. It's two teir atm I just pour back into the burner enabled top section but eventually when my budget allows (read as: when SWMBO says ok) I am going to mount another burner on the bottom teir for complete gravity system. Now I just store the gas tank down there. It's stable and if I can find my measurements I'll be sure and send them to you. I like that it doesn't take up as much room and that I don't have to rely on pumps.
Ok can't find my measurements but it's very similar to this one :
http://www.lancedrolet.com/?p=7
I made it wider for more stability and not as long. So my MLT sits sideways instead of longways like this guy did.
My big concern when I mount the bottom burner is that the steam will collect on the top burner and drip down into my HLT. That would suck. So my idea at this point is to make a diverter panel to sit above HLT at an angle to collect/divert the steam and cause the water to drip harmlessly off to the side.
Also I put locking casters on all four corners. And I got a steel plate and painted the Erector logo on it to amuse myself.
http://www.lancedrolet.com/?p=7
I made it wider for more stability and not as long. So my MLT sits sideways instead of longways like this guy did.
My big concern when I mount the bottom burner is that the steam will collect on the top burner and drip down into my HLT. That would suck. So my idea at this point is to make a diverter panel to sit above HLT at an angle to collect/divert the steam and cause the water to drip harmlessly off to the side.
Also I put locking casters on all four corners. And I got a steel plate and painted the Erector logo on it to amuse myself.
PM Catt22 he seems to know a lot about burners and can help you sort it out.
Mpavlik22
Well-Known Member
npauley88 said:
What was your solution?
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Has anyone used these burners? Link to the $30 burners I wonder how well they work (how long to boil, efficiency, etc).
Those are the exact burners I used... but I've only used my rig once so far... but it got up to boiling pretty quickly... especially if you fire up the burner during your sparge after you've got a gallon or so of wort in your bk.
Biscostew
Well-Known Member
The thirty dollar burners from agrisupply work great, have three on my setup. Only thing to consider is its somewhat hard to keep a constant temp on my direct fired mash tun. I often heat to desired temp, turn off burner, repeat during mash. One work around would be to get two large burners for your kettle and hlt and a small burner for your mlt.
DubbelDach
Well-Known Member
Saw the link for the Wallace stand a few weeks ago, but just stumbled on this thread yesterday. Fantastic info guys!
After finding the Wallace page, I went straight to Google Sketchup. I want to use the slotted angle iron to create a 4-tier system to help my 87-year old lower back. I also am content to stay at 5 gallons. So I think, based on the measurements of my current 9 gallon Bayou Classic kettle and 52 qt rectangle Igloo cooler that I can pull off a compact gravity fed system.
A few questions...
1) Does this look stable? The hot liquor will only top out at about 5.5' high. I plan on filling that with a hose. If there are 8 or so gallons of weight up there and negligible weight on the other tiers, but the casters are locked, it won't make the low side flip up, will it?
2) McMaster-Carr has the green powder coated steel. Has anyone used or seen this? Might solve the problem of burning zinc fumes, or paying for expensive powder coating... I am picturing the finish sort of looking like a stop sign post. I can get all the lengths I need of this for ~$140, so if it's as good as the stuff everyone else is using, than I am all about it.
Thoughts or suggestions before I start buying stuff? Thanks!
After finding the Wallace page, I went straight to Google Sketchup. I want to use the slotted angle iron to create a 4-tier system to help my 87-year old lower back. I also am content to stay at 5 gallons. So I think, based on the measurements of my current 9 gallon Bayou Classic kettle and 52 qt rectangle Igloo cooler that I can pull off a compact gravity fed system.
A few questions...
1) Does this look stable? The hot liquor will only top out at about 5.5' high. I plan on filling that with a hose. If there are 8 or so gallons of weight up there and negligible weight on the other tiers, but the casters are locked, it won't make the low side flip up, will it?
2) McMaster-Carr has the green powder coated steel. Has anyone used or seen this? Might solve the problem of burning zinc fumes, or paying for expensive powder coating... I am picturing the finish sort of looking like a stop sign post. I can get all the lengths I need of this for ~$140, so if it's as good as the stuff everyone else is using, than I am all about it.
Thoughts or suggestions before I start buying stuff? Thanks!
Saw the link for the Wallace stand a few weeks ago, but just stumbled on this thread yesterday. Fantastic info guys!
After finding the Wallace page, I went straight to Google Sketchup. I want to use the slotted angle iron to create a 4-tier system to help my 87-year old lower back. I also am content to stay at 5 gallons. So I think, based on the measurements of my current 9 gallon Bayou Classic kettle and 52 qt rectangle Igloo cooler that I can pull off a compact gravity fed system.
A few questions...
1) Does this look stable? The hot liquor will only top out at about 5.5' high. I plan on filling that with a hose. If there are 8 or so gallons of weight up there and negligible weight on the other tiers, but the casters are locked, it won't make the low side flip up, will it?
Thoughts or suggestions before I start buying stuff? Thanks!
Ahhh..Google sketchup! Wow..that looks like a great program..Not too far from Solidworks (visually anyway). Very cool! design and all!
I have a feeling that you are asking about the stability because it is making you nervous? That is a good intuition to have..Personally..I would follow that and make it either wider (looks like 1'2" wide) or shorter. I don't know if it makes sense..But you are almost 4x the width in height(granted, the height isn't constant). It probably would not take much to tip..
I like to over engineer and be confident, than to possibly under engineer and always worry about it.
I hope I get to the point I can make one of these!
OneHoppyGuy
Well-Known Member
the base is much too narrow for the height
on a single tier the minimum depth should be about 18"
you have multiple tiers, the base footprint should compliment the height
I'm 285lbs and can hang from the top tier without the unit tipping
I'm confident you'll come up with a weld-less that's safe and sturdy
DubbelDach
Well-Known Member
Free and easy to learn!
Yeah, I have a 2 year old, so stability is important. The more I think this through though, I think if I put some weight on the small end, then that will make it more stable. And we're just really careful. The kid's not running around while I'm using this.
I think I might proceed with this design...
With the space I have, I don't want the big wingspan that those legs give... Also don't want to go real high with it. Those sculptures are beautiful, just not what I need.
OneHoppyGuy
Well-Known Member
what about fold out outriggers like you see on boom and ladder trucks?
Mike_A
Well-Known Member
This is exactly what I do. I have two BG-14's (banjos) on the HLT and BK, and I use a mini-banjo (BG-12?) on the MLT. I must say though, that on average with a thin-walled aluminum kettle on a ~20lb grain + 30qt mash, I lose about 1*F every 10 minutes. The small banjo is capable of heating that much mash volume at a rate of about 2*F / min, so every 10 minutes I fire up the burner for 30-45 seconds and stir like crazy. Works great for me.
I find that if I leave the burner on as low as I can (which I can't really do with my rig outdoors, only when it's parked in the garage away from wind) that I have to constantly stir or I'll get hotspots, even if I am constantly recirculating. So, I'd rather have flame on for a short amount of time and stir for a short amount of time.
bitterpeanut
Member
Nice find! It is just as thick and comes in similar sizes. That pushed me a little further towards possibly building it....
DubbelDach
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I may just pull the trigger on that green powder coated next week. Same thickness, etc. so I feel good about it.
SanMarzano
Well-Known Member
Its On. I ordered the Green Stuff!
Products
Line Quantity Item Ships Unit price Total
1 2 each 4664T72 Steel Perforated Flat and Angle Framing Angle, Green Powder-Coated, 1-5/8" X 1-5/8", 6'L today $12.02 each 24.04
2 6 each 4664T74 Steel Perforated Flat and Angle Framing Angle, Green Powder-Coated, 2-3/8" X 1-5/8", 6'L today $14.89 each 89.34
3 16 each 4664T22 Steel Perforated Flat and Angle Framing Galvanized Steel Corner Plate, 6" X 6" X 6" today $2.41 each 38.56
4 2 packs 4664T61 Steel Perforated Flat and Angle Framing Hardware: Zinc-Plated Steel Bolts W/Nuts & Washers, packs of 50 today $6.45 pack 12.90
Merchandise total
$164.84
Products
Line Quantity Item Ships Unit price Total
1 2 each 4664T72 Steel Perforated Flat and Angle Framing Angle, Green Powder-Coated, 1-5/8" X 1-5/8", 6'L today $12.02 each 24.04
2 6 each 4664T74 Steel Perforated Flat and Angle Framing Angle, Green Powder-Coated, 2-3/8" X 1-5/8", 6'L today $14.89 each 89.34
3 16 each 4664T22 Steel Perforated Flat and Angle Framing Galvanized Steel Corner Plate, 6" X 6" X 6" today $2.41 each 38.56
4 2 packs 4664T61 Steel Perforated Flat and Angle Framing Hardware: Zinc-Plated Steel Bolts W/Nuts & Washers, packs of 50 today $6.45 pack 12.90
Merchandise total
$164.84
payton34
Well-Known Member
i am trying to build one exactly like that but when i cut the short pieces for the sides i cant get the holes to line up. what am i doing wrong? any help would be greatly appreciated
How much was the shipping, if you don't mind me asking?? McMaster doesn't really like to give that info out until you've pretty much placed your order. I'm on the fence about wood vs metal for an E-brewery. I like the look and expandability of the erector set build, but cost (with shipping) might argue for wood. . . thanks
SanMarzano
Well-Known Member
Yea......I have no clue yet....Fingers crossed, They are in SoCal and Im in NorCal so hopefully not that much. I hope its electric Lime Green =)
agezzi
Well-Known Member
No burners in it yet, but it's about 20 year old green powder coated angle iron. It's was free from work, so the price was just right. Will post again when it's finally together. It may be bit as I'm soon to be moving into my first home.
SanMarzano
Well-Known Member
So it looks like I was charged $204...14 of that was tax.....so 25 bucks for shipping.....Not great but could be worse(Cheaper than a welder)
Still cheaper than lowes when you factor shipping per piece and its powder coated
http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay...gId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1
Nice. I ordered the regular (non-green) stuff last night as well as gas plumbing parts and bits. Getting close!
DubbelDach
Well-Known Member
It is?
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