Welding questions

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Ohio-Ed said:
OK, so unless I can find someone to make me a "Friendly" deal, looks like I might be in the $150-$200 range for welding up my kegs.

Another question...
With the right equipment, how tough would it be to weld this myself?
(And I really don't mean any disrespect to the guys that do this professionally... I know it takes years of experience for this to be second nature and know how to deal with any situation that comes your way)

Obvious next question...
What would be the right equipment for a home owner and avid DIYer and what kind of cost are we talking about?

Ed
Click to expand...

Think of it as a investment and lifetime tool a Tig welder.
If you get lucky and find a used 250 Miller Synchrowave in good condition you can not go wrong as you can get your money back if you sold it.
I found a cherry 1994 250 complete with 150 cu/ft owner own bottle, torch, regulator and Victor ball flow meter for only $850 last year for a friend. It has paid for itself many times over already and will be never for sale he's very happy with it. he got the Miller Tig bug after practice on my 350 Synchrowave, before this off El Cheapo imported Tig welders with 20% duty cycles. That alone about finished his desire to learn to Tig weld and invest in a welder. The Miller Diversion 165 Tig for $1,275 is at the lower end of amperage and duty cycle of 20%. If looking at new welders www.Cyberweld.net has prices way below MSRP Miller units included plus free shipping. Out of state no tax either. Take night classes you'll be surprised the projects you'll be building.
 
WOW, The beer was FLOWING a lot harder then I thought. Holy crap. :tank:

I am very sorry guys, I am not anywhere near OH. :drunk: I was thinking of Jaybird. That is if he is in redding.


Jaybird,

Like you mentioned earlier, that is my starting point. I also didn't mention that the 40 bucks will get the top plasma cut off, I will drill the hole and pull the coupler through the side, then I weld it up. Now if a person wanted 6 couplers welded up, I wouldn't charge 40 bucks per coupler. If I really did live 8 hours away and a guy drove that far or was stopping by on thier way through. I would only charge for the coupler. If they had thier own, I would weld it for free. It says a lot when somone is willing to go that far out of thier way to come and see you. If I have to drag it all out and setup for the one coupler, then it is 40 bucks. Seems fair to me. I was once of the mind set of being the one that was the cheapest. I figured out that I was only hurting myself and running around doing things for peanuts. Not worth it. Even the customer that complains about the price, kicks and screams. Still leaves happy.

I am interested in your thoughts on this. Why do you think a sanitary weld is so hard? You mentioned that a couple of times. Stainless is one of the simplest materials to purge and get through on. IMO that is.


Ohio-Ed,

Sorry for not being clear. I was in a bit of a fog. On this forum I think we all understand that. I really wish I could help you out. I would be happy to weld it up for you.
 
Alright guys, you helped me dodge a bullet!!!
There is a shop about 2 miles from my house... sign says "Machine Shop / Welding".

So I decide to stop in today to "chat".
I walk in and there is one guy sitting behind a counter doing paperwork. Another guy walking from up toward the counter obviously from the shop (I could tell by the grease smudge on his lip).

"Grease Stash" meets me at the counter and here is how the conversation went:
Me: Can you guys TIG?
Him: Yep, what do ya need?
Me: Well, I have some stainless pipe couplings I need to have welded into a stainless beer keg.
Him: OK
Me: Well, I understand these need to be "back gassed".
Him: Welding stainless is about as easy as it gets.

Me: Uhhhh... (Bells and whistles going off in my head from all you guys have told me)
At this point, the other guy (the Book Worm), stands up and asks "What ya got?"
"Geese Stash" tells him "He needs a nipple welded into a beer keg".
Book Worm: I don't have any means to back gas.
Book Worm: If it's recommended, then that's how you want to do it.
Book Worm: If you don't it'll crystallize on the inside.
Book Worm goes on to tell me about two shops in the area that he thinks would be setup to do it.

I wonder what my kegs would look like if the conversation had ended with Grease Stach telling me "Stainless is as easy as it gets"???

I did ask Book Worm about turning the couplings to 1". He said it would be about $50 (one hour minimum).

So a BIG thanks to all you guys for giving me enough info, to recognize the situation.

Ed
 
Ohio-Ed said:
Alright guys, you helped me dodge a bullet!!!
There is a shop about 2 miles from my house... sign says "Machine Shop / Welding".

So I decide to stop in today to "chat".
I walk in and there is one guy sitting behind a counter doing paperwork. Another guy walking from up toward the counter obviously from the shop (I could tell by the grease smudge on his lip).

"Grease Stash" meets me at the counter and here is how the conversation went:
Me: Can you guys TIG?
Him: Yep, what do ya need?
Me: Well, I have some stainless pipe couplings I need to have welded into a stainless beer keg.
Him: OK
Me: Well, I understand these need to be "back gassed".
Him: Welding stainless is about as easy as it gets.

Me: Uhhhh... (Bells and whistles going off in my head from all you guys have told me)
At this point, the other guy (the Book Worm), stands up and asks "What ya got?"
"Geese Stash" tells him "He needs a nipple welded into a beer keg".
Book Worm: I don't have any means to back gas.
Book Worm: If it's recommended, then that's how you want to do it.
Book Worm: If you don't it'll crystallize on the inside.
Book Worm goes on to tell me about two shops in the area that he thinks would be setup to do it.

I wonder what my kegs would look like if the conversation had ended with Grease Stach telling me "Stainless is as easy as it gets"???

I did ask Book Worm about turning the couplings to 1". He said it would be about $50 (one hour minimum).

So a BIG thanks to all you guys for giving me enough info, to recognize the situation.

Ed
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Well, I am glade the situation went in your favor. Well done.

IMO though, Grease Stash is right. Stainless is very easy to weld. I understand he didn't pick up on the purge end of the weld, but it is true.
 
How would I describe in simple terms the requirement of welding a coupling into a keg?

What gauge is the keg wall? Anything else a welder should know about the keg?

Anything a welder needs to know about the cast 304 stainless coupling?

Thanks,
Ed
 
Ohio-Ed said:
How would I describe in simple terms the requirement of welding a coupling into a keg?

What gauge is the keg wall? Anything else a welder should know about the keg?

Anything a welder needs to know about the cast 304 stainless coupling?

Thanks,
Ed
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My sheet metal gauge tells me they are 18 gauge. When I use my calipers I get .045". Please, if you have a gauge tool, there is a difference in a sheet & plate guage tool and a wire size gauge tool.

I would just say, "I have a 1/2" coupling that I need welded to a beer keg. The parts are stainless and I need it to be purge welded, or back gased. I have a hole drilled in the location I need it welded to." I can't really guess to much more. As you have seen, there are lots of different thought processes out there. I am not sure how whoever you talk to will recieve it.

I agree with Jaybird on not getting too specific on the grades of stainless. If they get into it, then that is different. I guess about the only other thing is of concern is that it is welded with 308 filler. I only mention this number cause, if they weld stainless this is most likely the rod they will have on hand.
 
GreenMonti... Thanks, I made a couple calls today, I had actually already called the shops the local guy pointed me to. Mentioning a beer keg got a few chuckles on the phone but wasn't sure if it would be enough for them to know what they are getting into.

I'd love to have a welder and do this myself but looking at a new Miller Syncrowave 250 kinda choked me up a bit. My worry is even if I found a used one, at this point I'd have no idea if there were problems with it.

I saw this unit on ebay;

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AVOR...da5QQitemZ320455839141QQptZRaceQ5fCarQ5fParts

Plasma Cutter, TIG, and Stick... and it runs on a 50amp breaker (is the Miller really 100amp?)
My assumption is this is too good to be true (someone talk me down here)...
This thing is in a price range that I would jump on if it was worth a crap.

Ed
 
Ohio-Ed said:
GreenMonti... Thanks, I made a couple calls today, I had actually already called the shops the local guy pointed me to. Mentioning a beer keg got a few chuckles on the phone but wasn't sure if it would be enough for them to know what they are getting into.

I'd love to have a welder and do this myself but looking at a new Miller Syncrowave 250 kinda choked me up a bit. My worry is even if I found a used one, at this point I'd have no idea if there were problems with it.

I saw this unit on ebay;

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AVOR...da5QQitemZ320455839141QQptZRaceQ5fCarQ5fParts

Plasma Cutter, TIG, and Stick... and it runs on a 50amp breaker (is the Miller really 100amp?)
My assumption is this is too good to be true (someone talk me down here)...
This thing is in a price range that I would jump on if it was worth a crap.

Ed
Click to expand...

It is my opinion that any multi task unit will never do any one thing well. I don't have any knowledge of the thing. I will say that I would not waste my time with it though. Wish I could help more on that.

Yes, I have my welder on a 100 Amp circut. I have an oldy but a goldy. I have the 310 Amp Dial Arc by Miller. Thing weighs a bloody ton. Things have changed by a 100 miles since that unit was made. My welder by the serial numbers is a 1978 or a 1980. I don't recall wich right now.

The Maxstar 200 DX is a tiny bit cheaper then the syncrowave welders. My company is cheap so that is all they give us. However, I wouln't like to buy 50 of them either. Here is the one I use at work every day.
http://www.millerwelds.com/products/tig/maxstar_200/
When I get the cash I am going to upgrade myself here at the house to the dynasty 300.

You might get a little farther if you started out with, "Can you weld 18 gauge stainless?" Then get a bit specific if needed. It is sad how people get mind blocked before they even take the time to understand something.

I also agree with you on the used unit purchase. Since you don't know how to weld TIG, then when you go to look at it, running it would be almost pointless. That's tough.
 
I talked to three more welders today.

One VERY knowledgeable; asked what I was using this for and while he didn't use the word "Sanitary", understood what it is and even commented that food companies will turn away welds that aren't right. Bad news... his ballpark was $300 for 16 couplings if I drilled the holes and sized the couplings and $600 if he made the holes. Either way, I provide the couplings.

The second welder I found on craigslist... Said he could weld anything. I asked how he would do this and he said "TIG". I asked if he would back gas and he said "yes". He threw out $25 per coupling before he knew how many I had. I told him how many I had and that $25 per was high... He asked me to stop by show him what I have. He lives on my way home from work, so I'll stop by and see what he says.

Third shop was suggested by one of the guys I talked to yesterday. Sounds promising but they want to see what I have before even throwing out a ball park. Actually, the person I talked to was not a welder and they said he'd have to look at it.

Have I mentioned I'd love to be able to do this myself...aaarrrggg.

Ed
 
Ohio-Ed said:
I talked to three more welders today.

One VERY knowledgeable; asked what I was using this for and while he didn't use the word "Sanitary", understood what it is and even commented that food companies will turn away welds that aren't right. Bad news... his ballpark was $300 for 16 couplings if I drilled the holes and sized the couplings and $600 if he made the holes. Either way, I provide the couplings.I wouldn't worry about getting a bad weld. You already know that you application doesn't matter too awfull much. Don't get me wrong, I will take a nice weld over an ok one anyday.

The second welder I found on craigslist... Said he could weld anything. I asked how he would do this and he said "TIG". I asked if he would back gas and he said "yes". He threw out $25 per coupling before he knew how many I had. I told him how many I had and that $25 per was high... He asked me to stop by show him what I have. He lives on my way home from work, so I'll stop by and see what he says.Your first offer comes out to 18.75 a weld. That's not bad IMO. Check out his work. If he is willing to go lower you can go with either or. Maybe play the two a bit.

Third shop was suggested by one of the guys I talked to yesterday. Sounds promising but they want to see what I have before even throwing out a ball park. Actually, the person I talked to was not a welder and they said he'd have to look at it.Sounds like this one charge more. I get the feeling that your little job will take up too much of the welders time. IDK, you could get lucky.

Have I mentioned I'd love to be able to do this myself...aaarrrggg.

Ed
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Since all of this, what you are going through that is. I have decided to do up a sample of how I do the welds. I know it doesn't help you any, just thought I would share a thought I had based on this thread.

I wonder if you found out any thing today?
How much are you paying for the couplings? Just wondering, IIRC the last ones I bought were like 2 bucks a piece.
 
GreenMonti said:
Since all of this, what you are going through that is. I have decided to do up a sample of how I do the welds. I know it doesn't help you any, just thought I would share a thought I had based on this thread.

I wonder if you found out any thing today?
How much are you paying for the couplings? Just wondering, IIRC the last ones I bought were like 2 bucks a piece.
Click to expand...

I did not have a chance to visit the other two welders today. I might try to see one of them tomorrow... most likely the last one from my list yesterday.

I did the same math as you and agree that $18.75 each isn't bad. But for that price, I'm a little disappointed that I still have to provide the couplings, drill the holes and size the couplings. I was hopping that I could get just the welding done for $150-$200.

The couplings arrived today. I ordered them from murrayequipment.com.
1/2" - $1.35 /ea
1" - $2.95 / ea
2" - $7.85 /ea

I will use either the 1" or 2", not both. I would like to use the 2". I ordered 2X1" reducing bushings that I would like to mount a box to for the heating elements. The elements are scheduled to be here Friday. So I will figure out what I'll use over the weekend.

My current BK has a coupling mig'd in by a friend. I know it doesn't have to be perfect, but I'm really tired of looking at a bad weld job.

At this point, I'm kind of chronicling this so anyone that's interested can see what they might expect if they go hunting for a welder.

Any comments and input you'd like to make is more than welcome.
 
Ohio-Ed said:
I did not have a chance to visit the other two welders today. I might try to see one of them tomorrow... most likely the last one from my list yesterday.

I did the same math as you and agree that $18.75 each isn't bad. But for that price, I'm a little disappointed that I still have to provide the couplings, drill the holes and size the couplings. I was hopping that I could get just the welding done for $150-$200.

The couplings arrived today. I ordered them from murrayequipment.com.
1/2" - $1.35 /ea
1" - $2.95 / ea
2" - $7.85 /ea

I will use either the 1" or 2", not both. I would like to use the 2". I ordered 2X1" reducing bushings that I would like to mount a box to for the heating elements. The elements are scheduled to be here Friday. So I will figure out what I'll use over the weekend.

My current BK has a coupling mig'd in by a friend. I know it doesn't have to be perfect, but I'm really tired of looking at a bad weld job.

At this point, I'm kind of chronicling this so anyone that's interested can see what they might expect if they go hunting for a welder.

Any comments and input you'd like to make is more than welcome.
Click to expand...

I can understand the feeling of wanting nice work. I know myself, I am really picky about the things involved in my hobbies.

That seems like a fair price on the fittings. At least to me. I bought mine local last time. I don't mind a little extra in the price if I can keep my money local. Within reason that is.

I do agree that you have to put in a fair amount of work just so he can sit and weld them for you. He should at least size them for you. If he has a lathe then once the first one is cut to size, it is just a matter of changing them out and hitting the auto feed lever. I however am no machienist, that's for sure.

The coupling that you do have, will you be makeing that hole bigger for one of the other couplings?

I am sorry to say, that while you are having a heck of a time trying to get this done. For me it is nice to read your thread. It would seem that all the threads you read are of people being able to find whatever, whenever they need it right in thier back yard. It is nice that you have continued with this thread right through your troubles. Most would have given up and stoped posting. Leaving the other people who can't find what they need done in the dark. IMO this is a good thread for those willing to read it. You have had some good advice given to you and by a few different people. It would be better if they hadn't stoped posting in here, or if others would join in.

Never the less good job on the info. Have a cold one, after all it is hump day. The weekend is close.:mug:
 
I'm surprised your LHBS does not have a couple connections for welders to use that have welded kegs for other homebrewers like yourself. Far as used welders take along a friend that knows how to Tig and work with a 250 Sync and have him check out a used machine. On one 250 Sync it would not high freq start when only the contacts gap spacing was out of spec. Seller said it had a high freq problem needing repair. Yeah right took 3 minutes to correct the problem after the purchase. Should you buy a machine don't waste your money on a small lease bottle, purchase a large owner own bottle it will pay for itself vs a lease plus less refills. A win win on your part.
 
BrewBeemer said:
I'm surprised your LHBS does not have a couple connections for welders to use that have welded kegs for other homebrewers like yourself. Far as used welders take along a friend that knows how to Tig and work with a 250 Sync and have him check out a used machine. On one 250 Sync it would not high freq start when only the contacts gap spacing was out of spec. Seller said it had a high freq problem needing repair. Yeah right took 3 minutes to correct the problem after the purchase. Should you buy a machine don't waste your money on a small lease bottle, purchase a large owner own bottle it will pay for itself vs a lease plus less refills. A win win on your part.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input.

I asked the LHBS some time ago and unfortunately they told me they didn't know anyone they would recommend. But that is an excellent point. I need to stop by and see if that has changed.

As for a used welder... Unfortunately I don't know anyone that can tig, I really wish that I did. if I did, I probably wouldn't be in this spot.

I really wish there was a lower end welder ($500 - $1000) that would get the job done and would be flexible enough for other stuff around the shop. The ebay link that I posted earlier would be fantastic if I had any confidence it would be worth a crap. The Miller Diversion 165 is close to the range, but then I get nervous about capability.
 
Ohio-Ed said:
Thanks for the input.

I asked the LHBS some time ago and unfortunately they told me they didn't know anyone they would recommend. But that is an excellent point. I need to stop by and see if that has changed.

As for a used welder... Unfortunately I don't know anyone that can tig, I really wish that I did. if I did, I probably wouldn't be in this spot.

I really wish there was a lower end welder ($500 - $1000) that would get the job done and would be flexible enough for other stuff around the shop. The ebay link that I posted earlier would be fantastic if I had any confidence it would be worth a crap. The Miller Diversion 165 is close to the range, but then I get nervous about capability.
Click to expand...

So what do you have around the house or in the future that you think the Diversion would not be able to do?

How thick of material do you think you will be welding?
You have a Thunderbolt 225 to tackle the heavy lifting. About the only thing I don't like about the Diversion aside from features, is the adjustment while welding. I like to have a foot pedal. Always have. The Diversion has what is called a rail torch. You will be controlling the amperage by one of your fingers on the hand holding the torch. Even in the most difficult positions, I have never wanted a rail torch. Just my preference.
 
Sorry for another post, I know I can edit. I need more posts so I can post pics.

On the features thing I mentioned. I don't have any features on my old unit I use here at the house. Just high freq. With all the things I weld on at work, I dont really use the pulse setting that our welders have. Just a couple of parts that's it.

The diversion is nice cause it has AC/DC. So alum is possible, along with some other things. If you need more power, you can weld alum on DC. It is tricky and a little practice is needed, but it is feasible. Again, you have the Thunderbolt to weld heavy. Pick up some Alum rod and do that work that way.
 
I made some progress today... maybe significant progress. I took one of my three kegs to the welder that wanted to see the job. He looked at it and explained how he would do it... TIG, back gas, and he will make the holes. He gave me a price of $35 for the MLT (2 couplings) and $50 each for the HLT and BK (5 holes). As we talked, I mentioned "sanitary welds" and he smiled. He said, all I will need to do is rinse the keg out when he is done. He asked if I wanted him to weld this one up so I can see the results... Done. I left the keg, he said it would be ready tomorrow or Monday.

GreenMonti... I don't know what I will be welding. Other than a brew stand, I don't have any immediate plans/needs. But as I have been posting this thread I think of how many times I "work around" the fact that I have limited welding skills/equipment. The Diversion might do everything I would want or need, problem is I don't know examples of what it can and more importantly cannot do. I know I can look at the specs, but its kinda hard to relate that to examples around the shop/house.

Ed
 
Ohio-Ed said:
I made some progress today... maybe significant progress. I took one of my three kegs to the welder that wanted to see the job. He looked at it and explained how he would do it... TIG, back gas, and he will make the holes. He gave me a price of $35 for the MLT (2 couplings) and $50 each for the HLT and BK (5 holes). As we talked, I mentioned "sanitary welds" and he smiled. He said, all I will need to do is rinse the keg out when he is done. He asked if I wanted him to weld this one up so I can see the results... Done. I left the keg, he said it would be ready tomorrow or Monday.

GreenMonti... I don't know what I will be welding. Other than a brew stand, I don't have any immediate plans/needs. But as I have been posting this thread I think of how many times I "work around" the fact that I have limited welding skills/equipment. The Diversion might do everything I would want or need, problem is I don't know examples of what it can and more importantly cannot do. I know I can look at the specs, but its kinda hard to relate that to examples around the shop/house.

Ed
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WOW, that sounds great about that weldor.:mug: I hope it all goes well for you. Let us know please. I know you will.

The Diversion will weld up a stand for you just fine. I don't agree with the thickness of alum they say it will do. Any alum really, will suck the life right out of your weld puddle. It doesn't sound like you really want to spend the money on a welder. That's totally ok. After all it is your money.:) I was just trying to help you in the understanding of things. That welder has a duty cycle of 20% at 150 amps. Which means you can only weld 2 min out of 10. As you lower the amperage the duty cycle goes up. That welder hit 100% at 60 amps. So, for the welder to fill the bill of a home hobbiest weldor, it is pertty much spot on. At work I mostly weld on material from .015 -.080" thick. I dont turn up my welder past 70 amps. All of my welds are purge welds, meaning I punch through the entire thickness all in one shot. Much like a sanitary weld. We use copper and alum as backer plates with the purge gas for the back comming out of the plates. So most of the heat is dissapated away from the part through the copper and alum. Maybe that will help you understand a bit more?
 
If you can get someone to do the job for that price I would be all over it. I think that pricing is more than fair, as long as the work looks good. Many people say they can weld, but few are welders.
 
Dog House Brew said:
If you can get someone to do the job for that price I would be all over it. I think that pricing is more than fair, as long as the work looks good. Many people say they can weld, but few are welders.
Click to expand...


As weird and odd as it my sound, that is why I am waiting for the post count to go up. I want to show Ed my new sample piece I welded. Wether it matters or not, it matters to me that people know I am not just blowing smoke. Anyone can post that they are a weldor, just as you have said.

:mug:
 
I hope it works out with this welder. I'm feeling pretty good about this right now because this guy was recommended by another local welder. I agree the price is very fair. I would love to have a welder, but right now my concentration is to get this system done. $135, if the job turns out well, is worth the time it will buy me to look for a deal and learn more about welders/welding.

Dog House Brew... I have continued this thread for the very reason you mentioned. I think there are people that buy a piece of equipment and call themselves "welders". I don't know, I was hopping that the next guy that heads down this path may find some info here that will help them. Basically, are there questions you can ask that will reveal a less than qualified welder and he not be offended or even realize he was outed? My goal has been to approach this from a friendly direction and not challenge or offend anyone along the way.

GreenMonti... You can always create an account on photobucket.com to store your pictures and just put the link in your message here.

Ed
 
Ohio-Ed said:
I hope it works out with this welder. I'm feeling pretty good about this right now because this guy was recommended by another local welder. I agree the price is very fair. I would love to have a welder, but right now my concentration is to get this system done. $135, if the job turns out well, is worth the time it will buy me to look for a deal and learn more about welders/welding.

Dog House Brew... I have continued this thread for the very reason you mentioned. I think there are people that buy a piece of equipment and call themselves "welders". I don't know, I was hopping that the next guy that heads down this path may find some info here that will help them. Basically, are there questions you can ask that will reveal a less than qualified welder and he not be offended or even realize he was outed? My goal has been to approach this from a friendly direction and not challenge or offend anyone along the way.

GreenMonti... You can always create an account on photobucket.com to store your pictures and just put the link in your message here.

Ed
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I will put up the links then. I have an account. I just like putting up the pics. I guess it doesn't matter, if you want to see them you will click the link. I will be right back.
 
Well I've been watching this thread and just brought my three kegs home today from the welder. I have three kegs with 3 couplers each. I drilled and cleaned up the kegs myself. The welder charged me $135 which he said it took 3 hrs to do @ $45/hr rate. He said it take a long time to fill with gas... I don't think the 135 was a bad price but I doubt it took them 30 minutes to get them welded it up.

Since it was kind of dark and 6:00 am I didn't get a good look at them. I did ask all of the questions including if they can do a sanitary weld. They ensured me that they could and we also talked about what filler they would use and 317 seemed to be his choice.

However after looking at them in my garage I'm not happy at all with the welds on the inside. The outside looks great but it doesn't look like the filler flowed all the way through and the couplers aren't flush on the inside like i asked except for maybe one. Also, looking at the inside it looks like they sanded all of the walls.

Sorry to rant or steal the thread but I was excited to get them home and now I'm afraid to use them. I'll try to get some pics to see what you think.
 
Ok the links.

First a couple of shots from work. This is an 8" flange I welded on to a formed body. Sorry about the quality, these two are off my cell phone. We aren't allowed to take pics. Sssshhhhh.
The outside of the weld. This is .080 thick Inconel.
http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo300/pentair/1202090543.jpg
This is the inside. Remember I said I puch all the way through. This is the drop through.
http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo300/pentair/1202090542.jpg

Now, this is the little sample piece I did. I mentioned I made a tool to pull the coupler through the side of the kegs. No keg in this pic but you get the idea.
This is the back side. You can see how little discoloration I get. You can also see how the coupler pushed its way thorugh.
http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo300/pentair/P1010109.jpg
Here is a shot of what would be the outside. You can see the flair at the bottom of the weld. In this pic I show you my weld. I give 2 options, to leave the weld or to polish the weld.
http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo300/pentair/P1010111.jpg
This is the same piece turned to show how the piece looks when polished. This is where "sample" comes in. It showcases both.
http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo300/pentair/P1010110.jpg
 
GreenMonti said:
Ok the links.

First a couple of shots from work. This is an 8" flange I welded on to a formed body. Sorry about the quality, these two are off my cell phone. We aren't allowed to take pics. Sssshhhhh.
The outside of the weld. This is .080 thick Inconel.
http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo300/pentair/1202090543.jpg
This is the inside. Remember I said I puch all the way through. This is the drop through.
http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo300/pentair/1202090542.jpg

Now, this is the little sample piece I did. I mentioned I made a tool to pull the coupler through the side of the kegs. No keg in this pic but you get the idea.
This is the back side. You can see how little discoloration I get. You can also see how the coupler pushed its way thorugh.
http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo300/pentair/P1010109.jpg
Here is a shot of what would be the outside. You can see the flair at the bottom of the weld. In this pic I show you my weld. I give 2 options, to leave the weld or to polish the weld.
http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo300/pentair/P1010111.jpg
This is the same piece turned to show how the piece looks when polished. This is where "sample" comes in. It showcases both.
http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo300/pentair/P1010110.jpg
Click to expand...

Well, It worked out in the test forum. Here are the pics in the same order.


1202090543.jpg

1202090542.jpg


P1010109.jpg

P1010111.jpg

P1010110.jpg


There you go. No clicking.
 
jcalisi said:
Well I've been watching this thread and just brought my three kegs home today from the welder. I have three kegs with 3 couplers each. I drilled and cleaned up the kegs myself. The welder charged me $135 which he said it took 3 hrs to do @ $45/hr rate. He said it take a long time to fill with gas... I don't think the 135 was a bad price but I doubt it took them 30 minutes to get them welded it up.

Since it was kind of dark and 6:00 am I didn't get a good look at them. I did ask all of the questions including if they can do a sanitary weld. They ensured me that they could and we also talked about what filler they would use and 317 seemed to be his choice.

However after looking at them in my garage I'm not happy at all with the welds on the inside. The outside looks great but it doesn't look like the filler flowed all the way through and the couplers aren't flush on the inside like i asked except for maybe one. Also, looking at the inside it looks like they sanded all of the walls.

Sorry to rant or steal the thread but I was excited to get them home and now I'm afraid to use them. I'll try to get some pics to see what you think.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't worry too much. You would be fine even if they were not purged with gas. You boil in the kettle long enough that I don't see any problems. I had the same thing happen to me when I first got started. No back gas and all that nasty looking black sugar. Never a problem while using them. Really pizzed me off though. And that came from a union pipe-fitter. Just because they say they can, doesn't mean they can.
 
Dog House Brew said:
What do you use to polish the welds. They look nice. I drilled my kettles today. I'm sure my welds won't look like yours, but they will be mine.
Click to expand...


There wasn't much to do really. One of the nice things about TIG, you can add as much or as little as you want. I used a 90 degree angle grinder. Air powered. I used a 100 gritt sanding disc to get it down and then a trizac disc to get rid of the marks caused by the 100 gritt disc. I then buffed them with a scotch bright pad on a bench grinder. On a keg you will use the same pads but in a straight die grinder. Just watch the speed, they will/do fly apart if you run them too fast. All said and done, it took me like 10 min to do that.
 
GreenMonti said:
There wasn't much to do really. One of the nice things about TIG, you can add as much or as little as you want. I used a 90 degree angle grinder. Air powered. I used a 100 gritt sanding disc to get it down and then a trizac disc to get rid of the marks caused by the 100 gritt disc. I then buffed them with a scotch bright pad on a bench grinder. On a keg you will use the same pads but in a straight die grinder. Just watch the speed, they will/do fly apart if you run them too fast. All said and done, it took me like 10 min to do that.
Click to expand...

Yeh I was wondering your starting grit. I have all the die grinders. Not that I will polish mine though. My stuff is a bit on the narly side.:D
 
Dog House Brew said:
Yeh I was wondering your starting grit. I have all the die grinders. Not that I will polish mine though. My stuff is a bit on the narly side.:D
Click to expand...

HA,HA,HA
So is the stuff I am running now. I just had to get brewing. The new one that is in the works will be more on the nice side. I have the time to devote to it since I have a working system. I am going to weld all the copper piping on the next one.
 
Ohio-Ed : would you mind telling your fellow Ohioan the name location of the welder you found?
 

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