Water Filter Setup

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I have about 14 of these I have built if anyone would like one I can ship them out via ups ground For a total cost of $50 and I will include three filters either 5 or 1 microns. They have ball lock fittings. Just message me if you are interested in getting one.
 
For those who have built this already;
Why is the Watts swivel adapter necessary when the QD and the flow restrictor each have swivel abilities of their own?

I want to make sure I'm not skipping an important part.
 
What are the numbers for magnesium, sodium, etc that this will produce? Or is it dependent on what water runs through it?
 
Ok thanks. So using either of the water spreadsheets I'll have to build the water up from zero? I thought that was basically RO water. What am I missing here?
 
Ok thanks. So using either of the water spreadsheets I'll have to build the water up from zero? I thought that was basically RO water. What am I missing here?

Unless I missed something, the OP filter setup appears to be using an ordinary granulated carbon filter. The cartridge will typically have a woven polyester cover to keep out larger particulates. An RO system is a completely different set up although it will usually incorporate a carbon filter stage.

Yes, you would need to build the water when using RO as it won't have much of anything left in it if the system is working properly. I don't have an RO system yet, so that's about as far as I can be of assistance. I am also not very hip to water chemistry (yet).
 
Unless I missed something, the OP filter setup appears to be using an ordinary granulated carbon filter. The cartridge will typically have a woven polyester cover to keep out larger particulates. An RO system is a completely different set up although it will usually incorporate a carbon filter stage.

Yes, you would need to build the water when using RO as it won't have much of anything left in it if the system is working properly. I don't have an RO system yet, so that's about as far as I can be of assistance. I am also not very hip to water chemistry (yet).

Just to be really clear here, the filtration system that we're talking about in this thread removes chlorine (and chloramine depending on your flow rate and the specific type of filter cartridge that you use). It will not strip any of the other minerals out of your water. So if you're adjusting water chemistry, it won't change the water significantly from the values that you get from your utility.
 
Just to be really clear here, the filtration system that we're talking about in this thread removes chlorine (and chloramine depending on your flow rate and the specific type of filter cartridge that you use). It will not strip any of the other minerals out of your water. So if you're adjusting water chemistry, it won't change the water significantly from the values that you get from your utility.

That's exactly what I was wondering. Thanks for clearing that up.
 
Ok thanks. So using either of the water spreadsheets I'll have to build the water up from zero? I thought that was basically RO water. What am I missing here?
Just to clarify...I think you may have misunderstood when catt22 said "pretty much zero". i believe he was indicating a carbon filter setup will not remove nor add any dissolved minerals. Only chlorine and sediment suspended solids (e.g. sand, grit) will be removed. You'd need an RO system to remove the dissolved minerals.
 
My local water report says they use chlorine as a disinfectant and that my water contains and average of 1.52 ppm of "chlorine residual free". Is that a lot?
 
Ok thanks. So using either of the water spreadsheets I'll have to build the water up from zero? I thought that was basically RO water. What am I missing here?

To add another thought that's slightly off topic...

Some step to remove chlorine and chloramine (either this type of filtration or a campden tablet or boiling or something cool that I've never heard of before...) should always be your first step in adjusting your water chemistry. If there's still significant amounts of chlorine in the water, it doesn't matter how anal you are about tweaking the pH or the Ca / Mg ratio. High chlorine levels will wreck pretty much any good work that you've done by tweaking the water chemistry.
 
What about 1.52 ppm of chlorine? Is that a lot?

That is a typical chlorine residual that water systems are supposed to have for public health purposes (water disinfection). Using a typical 10" undersink filter with an activated carbon cartridge and limiting the flow rate through the filter to about 1 gal/min will remove chlorine and chloramine. If the flow rate is higher than that, significant concentrations of those disinfectants can make it through the filter.

Slow flow is the only way to go!
 
Would you even suggest a carbon filter with such a small amount?

PS: Thanks for Brunwater. It's taught me a lot about water as is a great tool.
 
That concentration of chlorine is NOT a small amount. It will definitely react with the malt components and create chlorophenols in the finished beer. Use either the activated carbon filter or use campden tablets to remove the chlorine or chloramine.
 
I've been using 1/2 a campden tablet for about 7 gal mash water and another 1/2 tablet for about 12 gal sparge water. Is that enough?
 
I stopped dikin around with filters when I moved to NE Texas. I got a prefilter before the softener, a whole house charcoal, and a RO that feeds the kitchen with another that feeds the HLT. With less than $5 of water salts never had a problem
2) filter housings $34 homeys D
2) RO GE filters ~$200 homeys D
Good Beer, without water problems,,, Priceless
 
Here is a video I made of the construction of this filter. Thanks so much for all the inspiration and help. This thing works awesome

[ame]http://youtu.be/Dtx_WBAflUw?hd=1[/ame]
 
HitTheTwit said:
For those who have built this already;
Why is the Watts swivel adapter necessary when the QD and the flow restrictor each have swivel abilities of their own?

I want to make sure I'm not skipping an important part.

Bump
 
What about lead from tap water? Is it good to use a filter capable of removing lead as well as Chlorine/Chloramine or it depends in the amounts of lead from the water report?.
I live in Indianapolis and in the water report it says we get lead.

Lead: 10 ppb

Copper 0.09 ppm
 
I just built mine.
As far as I can tell, it is because the QD does not swivel as freely as the Watts.
I could be entirely wrong, but that is what I've noticed.

Looks like I have to make another trip back to Lowe's. The A665 I picked up only had one set of male threads! Someone put it back in the wrong bag. Grumble grumble.
Looking forward to testing this puppy out!
 
Thanks for the response! I ended up getting the swivel for that reason.

What do people use for creating a hanger piece to attach it to a keggle?
 
I have a UV filter and a similar sediment filter already on my lines as I am on well water. I shouldn't need to use one of these even if I get the water out of the faucets for the garden hoses, right? As long as I use a hose that won't impart goofy flavors/odors...
 
Built this today, as I just started 5 gal batches (from 2 gallon MrBeer) and the Brita pitcher isn't going to keep up. Thanks to the OP for listing parts, as those were a good starting point, as old as that post is i wasn't surprised that some parts were missing.

Here's what I ended up using that was different :

Filter -> Used Whirlpool WHKF-DB2 (.5 micron filter), was $28.86. I could only find 2 micron filters that did not list "lead" as one of the things it removed. I checked Lowes, home depot, and Walmart... this was the cheapest filter that list lead,chlorine, and sediment. *found these on the back wall of section that has sinks, toilet stuff, and sump pumps

I also used different parts for the output, i took the housing out and wondered the PVC section. Nobody seemed to mind. I found a 3/4" threaded to 1/2" threaded adapter, then a 1/2" threaded to 1/2 slip adapter and 1/2" elbow. These parts were under $3 total, and with the flow rate needing to be backed down to 1 gal per minute i didn't see the need to use 3/4", and i had plenty of 1/2" pvc at the house. * the brass male-to-male fitting was over by the toilet plumbing stuff, against a wall where parts were on a board showing what's in the bags. The PVC parts were over by the sprinkler systems.

Lasco Brass Adapter (coupler) 3/4 female to 3/4 female "swivel" part 15-1705, got this from local ACE hardware store when I realized I forgot a female-to-female adapter on way home. This one did not leak, in case the poster that had issue with that. * by garden hose section

Apex 25" drinking water safe hose from Walmart, only place that had a hose shorter than 50" that I visited today. Found this by the BBQ equip $14, list "built-in protection guards against mold, mildew and bacteria on inside of hose". That hopefully will help with me storing this in the garage. I plan to have this entire attachment with my brew equipment, only used when i brew. I'll hook the hose up, and use it to wash/clean items... then hook the filter up with the Quick Disco to get water to be used in brewing.

Also, anyone else with a "leak" issue should try using some plumbers tape on the fittings, it will work if the leak is out the threads.

And finally, anyone worried about brackets... i just made a small section of PVC pipe (3") out the elbow and hang the filter off the brew kettle by the elbow (filter housing on outside). The setup seems very stable.
 
To get rid of chloramine couldn't you just add 1/2 campden tab per 10 gal into the HLT before heating? This way the filter gets rid of all the other nasties and campden removes the chloramine.
 
Has anyone mounted this filter to a stand? If so how did you do it. Looking for some options. Thanks.
 
I did on my stand. I fabricated mounts from 1 inch square tubing and 1/8 inch plate. They are welded to the bottom side of the top rail on the back of my stand.

filters.jpg
 
I did on my stand. I fabricated mounts from 1 inch square tubing and 1/8 inch plate. They are welded to the bottom side of the top rail on the back of my stand.

View attachment 41658

p.s. I should mention, my system is an electric HERMS, so I only have one burner for the boil kettle. So the plastic filter housings are not mounted close to a burner.
 
Has anyone mounted this filter to a stand? If so how did you do it. Looking for some options. Thanks.

I used a really big hose clamp from Harbor Freight. It is one of the ones that ones that comes in a multi-size pack and has little keys on the tightening screw so you can do it by hand.
 
Are those plumbed in series? Is one not enough?

Yep, they are. It might be a little overkill, but I wanted to keep the water in contact with the carbon filter as long as possible. I originally had one filter (before I built my stand) and I swear I could smell chlorine in the water if I ran the water too fast (I'd guesstimate "too fast" was faster than 1/2 gallon per minute). It could have been my imagination or it could have been that it wasn't all that great of a carbon filter (cheapy from Lowe's) or maybe a little of both. Regardless, when I was building my stand I figured I might as well throw another filter on just in case. The second one uses a carbon filter from airwaterice (Aquarium Water | Reverse Osmosis | RODI Water | ReefKeeper Water | Gem Carbon Block Filter) so now it runs through the cheap Lowe's filter then through the carbon block filter from airwaterice. Again, I don't have any way to measure so I know this isn't very scientific, but I don't seem to get any perceptible chlorine odor now.
 
I bought the components for this (GE housing and filter instead since I used Home Depot), but I'm curious about the filters. There was a choice between:

1x FXUTC

2x FXWLC

Will the vastly cheaper FXWLC be sufficient to clean up my hose water, or is it super necessary to go with the lower micron FXUTC (or even higher)?
 
I went with the lower micron filter, cost more but it was the only one that listed lead and other contaminates as being filtered. I think those $5 filters are just to remove large particles.
 
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