Washing yeast ?? What is that - how do I do it?

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Ninkasi70

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I keep seeing references to "washing yeast" in posts that refer to re-using a yeast cake. (and yes, I ran a query, but didn't find an explanation).

Currently I have 3 gallons of cider that's already dropped to around .996 and has been sitting still in primary for about 3 weeks due to all the hecticness of the holiday season.

I'd like to dump this to a secondary and then re-use the yeast cake. What would "washing" mean, and what is the process for doing that?

I'd like to get a 4-5 gallon batch going on this same yeast if possible. The yeast is Danstar's Nottingham, if that makes any difference.

Thx!
 
Awesome, why that didn't come up when I queried, I'll never know. Thank you so much for the link. But....it looks like washing is for future use, not immediate use.

So....

Is there any reason NOT to just pour the new apple juice onto the lees currently at the bottom of the primary?
 
There are folks who would argue that, if you went from a high OG to a final gravity of .996 (the mouth waters even as I type that!) that your yeast may be stressed and start acting up - e.g. mutate, or, well really I don't know as I'm not someone with theories like that.

I see no problem with pitching new must on the lees from the old batch, with the possible problem that you will end up with as much trub each time - at some point you're prolly going to want to wash it, just to keep the yeast and be rid of the trub.
 
There are videos about yeast washing on youtube as well. Brewing TV had a short bit about it on episode 47 starting at around 8:30: Also, you can check out: video on Homebrewer TV which is a different show. It was a great show run by a fellow forum member (Gary/Bluesssman) but unfortunately it stopped after the show tried doing paid-membership :(
 
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I'm not sure why it is, but reusing yeast from beer works great while I would never reuse wine or cider lees. Part of the reason is that beer trub is easily separated from the yeast, but wine and cider lees and yeast aren't so easily separated. The yeast seems to be more stressed, as well, but I don't know if that is a pH issue or even just my imagination.

Nottingham is cheap enough that just purchasing a package is what I'd do.
 
I want to punch the guy in the 2nd video . . . right in the ear . . .

sorry if it's you BUT . . . duck

Dont get me wrong info seems solid just the speech pattern makes me >.<
 
I want to punch the guy in the 2nd video . . . right in the ear . . .

sorry if it's you BUT . . . duck

Dont get me wrong info seems solid just the speech pattern makes me >.<

It's not me, it's Gary. I explained it in my previous post, but the text came out below the video and probably got overlooked. Why would you punch him?! He looks like such a happy dude! I wish there were more brewing shows...CraigTube, Brewing TV, Homebrewer TV, Bobby M...I even watch the youtube 1-timer homebrewing videos I get so bored sometimes haha...
 
Thanks everyone for helping out. In the end I decided to go with a fresh pack of yeast, because I was spectacularly sloppy with my last batch of cider, and I wasn't 100% that I hadn't picked up some other specimens (last fermentation was really cold sub-60 temps, and I had some kind of lid leak and so my airlock never worked, I pulled half the batch to serve green for a holiday party, etc. etc. I just didn't want to compound those errors).

I appreciate the help in finding the info. I was only searching the cider forum and, hey lookitthat, the info is in the beer forums.

Spent most of today with a delicate scrubby, soap, water, bleach and boiling water. Now I have 4 gal of perfectly good apple juice sitting near the heater where it might just warm up to 63° and ferment. If this batch goes well and things stay organized, I'll try pitching onto a bucket of moonscape for the next batch.

thanks!
 

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