Using RO water

[MichaelBrock]

I have read through the water chemistry primer sticky in the Brew Science forum at least twice and, probably for the worse, plenty of other threads and sites. I'm about to try my first all-grain batch after only a few extract brews. My first brew, although drinkable, was pretty heavily affected by the chlorine in my tap water. Since then I have been using RO/DI water with positive results.

I'd like to continue using RO/DI water (I have a ready supply for my reef aquarium). Unfortunately, my brain is currently locked up with all of the conflicting/confusing information. I think I can appreciate the value of tweaking the mineral content of the water to accent the various flavors. However, for now I want to start with a simple basic addition to the RO/DI water that will get me in the ballpark of "good beer".

So, my plan at this point is to go with the simple formula in the first post of the Water Chemistry Primer thread. The beer will be Reaper's English Mild:

5 lb 8 oz Maris Otter (Crisp, UK)
1 lb 8 oz Crystal 60L (Crisp, UK)
6 oz Chocolate malt (Crisp, UK)

The primary primer post suggests the baseline addition of 1 tsp of calcium chloride dihydrate. Now since it is a british beer I would add 1 tsp gypsum to that. And since it has roasted malt I would exclude the usual baseline 2% saurmalz. Does that sound right? Is there enough roasted malt to justify exclusion of the full 2% of the sauermalz?

My concern is with the mash ph. Unfortunately, I don't currently have an accurate way of measuring it. Is this something I should be concerned with at this point?

I'm sure I'm over-thinking everything given that this is my first all grain brew. I just need reassurance.

 

[eastoak]

http://www.kegkits.com/Merchant2/me...de=PH_Stabil&Category_Code=5star&Store_Code=W

i just picked a random vendor, your local store may carry this too. i've used it with good results. it takes the ph worry out of my brew day.

 

[jetmac]

Don't use the 5.2 as suggested above.

You can measure the pH easily with strips.

I would like to suggest not using 100% RO water. And Don't use the DI water at all.

I would get a chlorine filter. They make them for shower heads and you can easily adapt itto fit you outdoor spigot. I would mix 50% straight tap water and 50% RO water. Then don;t get too caught up in adjusting your water.
I'll see if I can find a previous thread i posted some info in.

 

[MichaelBrock]

I have read a number of threads indicating that the 5.2 doesn't actually work (would be nice if it did though!).

Why not use RO/DI? Too many missing minerals (whatever those might be). It seems to me that starting with "pure" water would provide the ultimate in control. You "re-constitute" it and you know exactly what is in your brewing water. I certainly wouldn't bother with it at this point in my brewing experience but since I have ready access to it I thought I would give it a shot.

The Water Chemistry Primer thread seems to have as it's main them (although it quickly gets drowned out as the replies mounted) that the minerals typically at lower levels in brewing water don't make much difference. That good beer can be achieve with only a few simple mineral additions. I thought that I would probably add some yeast nutrient just to be sure the micro-minerals needed by the yeast weren't missing from the water.

 

[944play]

You'd miss magnesium from 100% RO, but malts ought to contribute enough Mg to keep your yeast happy.

If you decide to use less than 100% RO, you could use a portion of the waste water from your RO unit, which will have passed through the particulate and carbon filter stages to knock out the chlorine. Meh, I'd probably just go RO+CaCl2+CaSO4 like you planned.

 

[RCCOLA]

I use RO with mineral additions exclusively.

I'd go with the RO and CaCl/CaSO4 combo and skip the acid malt. Should be fine. If you want to go deeper in the future, get a pH meter--the strips are iffy.

 

[MichaelBrock]

I use RO with mineral additions exclusively.

I'd go with the RO and CaCl/CaSO4 combo and skip the acid malt. Should be fine. If you want to go deeper in the future, get a pH meter--the strips are iffy.

That's two votes for that option and I think that' the advice I'm feeling the most comfortable with at this point. I'll probably ask for a ph meter for my birthday. Coming up soon! Now I just need to subtly give show my wife a link to the exact one I want

 

[osagedr]

There are a couple of good software packages out there that make water adjustments very easy. Brewing salts are cheap and readily available. Use your RO water, add a few grams of whatever salts you need, and you get your pH right and mineral profile right. I just started taking this aspect of brewing more seriously and am very glad I did. It's simple!

 

[jetmac]

I use RO with mineral additions exclusively.

I'd go with the RO and CaCl/CaSO4 combo and skip the acid malt. Should be fine. If you want to go deeper in the future, get a pH meter--the strips are iffy.

I agree

 

[eastoak]

5.2 does work, but like a lot of things you will have people claiming otherwise because it it supposedly didn't work for them. it's just simple chemistry and you could make your own 5.2 at home cheaper and maybe that's why some people knock it, they feel it's wasting money which is different than a product not working at all.