Using pump to transfer - How do you track volume?

[Hwk-I-St8]

For example. Say I have a hot liquor tank at strike temp and I want to transfer 5.5G into the mash tun. Further assume I want to underlet, so the grains are already there.

How do you know when you've got 5.5G in the MLT. Even if you look at how much is gone from the HLT, there's some loss in the pump/tubing. Do you measure that loss ahead of time and just account for it?

Curious to hear how people work this process. I usually just put th 5.5G into my kettle, then drain/dump into the MLT and mix in the grains, but I'd like to try underletting.

 

[h22lude]

Even if you look at how much is gone from the HLT, there's some loss in the pump/tubing. Do you measure that loss ahead of time and just account for it?

I think this is the easiest. Accounting for the loss in the pump and tubing will be tough because it is so small. In my CFC, tubing and pump I lose less than 2 cups. If you want to be that accurate, you can measure how much you lose in the pump and tubing and then manually add that amount.

So you would transfer the needed amount by looking at how much is gone from the HLT. Then take a measuring cup and scoop out the pump lose amount from the HLT and dump it into the MT.

 

[beermanpete]

A sight gauge on the hot liquor tank will allow you to measure the water used.

You can account for system losses and any "dead space" under your false bottom by measurements made with water ahead of time. This only needs to be done once unless you change your system configuration.

 

[SanPancho]

or get a big ass scale. one liter is one kilo, temp doesnt matter.

 

[Vandulus]

If you have a drain valve assembly for your pump, just close off the kettle valve and drain everything to a large measure glass. Then measure how much is in the cup. A drain valve is nice to draining hoses without making a mess if you move your kettle around like I have to. It's also helpful if you get grain/hop matter in the lines to clear it out easily.

 

[eric19312]

A sight gauge on the hot liquor tank will allow you to measure the water used.

You can account for system losses and any "dead space" under your false bottom by measurements made with water ahead of time. This only needs to be done once unless you change your system configuration.

+1 to the sight glass on the HLT

agree that the loss in the lines is small and probably not meaningful unless you have some very long lines. Point is making your brew day repeatable so I'd go with the measurement on the sight glass at strike temperature and stick to that measurement. Next time you brew the recipe if you want a little thinner mash make the adjustment in your recipe.

Point really isn't to hit exactly 1.4 quarts per pound because the recipe you read online did it that way...you have no idea how accurately they measured volumes either. Point is really to be able to repeat your own experience, 1.4 quarts per pound is too thick? OK try 1.5 next time and see how you like that. If you start of with adjusting for line losses you will be stuck with including that adjustment for the rest of time.

 

[JDXX1971]

I also bottom let my strike water into the grains. So far I have just been pumping the strike water in until I reach the mash volume needed as provided by BeerSmith2. I have been pretty close to my volume numbers this way, though I still have not dialed my system in completely as I keep changing it between brew days.

 

[Hwk-I-St8]

+1 to the sight glass on the HLT

agree that the loss in the lines is small and probably not meaningful unless you have some very long lines. Point is making your brew day repeatable so I'd go with the measurement on the sight glass at strike temperature and stick to that measurement. Next time you brew the recipe if you want a little thinner mash make the adjustment in your recipe.

Point really isn't to hit exactly 1.4 quarts per pound because the recipe you read online did it that way...you have no idea how accurately they measured volumes either. Point is really to be able to repeat your own experience, 1.4 quarts per pound is too thick? OK try 1.5 next time and see how you like that. If you start of with adjusting for line losses you will be stuck with including that adjustment for the rest of time.

It's not so much about hitting my exact mash thickness as it is about hitting mash temp and total volume into the kettle. I mash in a cooler, so I work hard to get the exact amount of strike water at a precise temp to achieve a mash temp that is where I want it.

In addition, with a batch sparge, the volume of sparge water is pretty important or you can easily miss your gravity.

There's a lot more leeway with missing strike volume if you fly sparge and, obviously, precise quantity of sparge water isn't relevant.

 

[day_trippr]

- I make up strike water in my BK using the sight gauge and underlet with the whole volume.

- Meanwhile I put 12 gallons in the HLT (minimum, to fully cover the hex through the recirculation phase) with appropriate salts added.

- While recirculating the mash I keep an eye on the MLT sight gauge to make sure a stuck mash isn't in the offing. If the level drops into the grain bed I back off the pump until it stabilizes. I ignored this once and it was the only mash I've ever stuck, not much fun with a 48 pound grain bill

- Finally I fly-sparge until the BK sight glass reaches the pre-boil volume target.

I'm a big fan of sight gauges...

Cheers!

 

[wyowolf]

If you have a drain valve assembly for your pump, just close off the kettle valve and drain everything to a large measure glass. Then measure how much is in the cup. A drain valve is nice to draining hoses without making a mess if you move your kettle around like I have to. It's also helpful if you get grain/hop matter in the lines to clear it out easily.

where would you get one of those? or maybe Im picturing something different...

 

[Vandulus]

where would you get one of those? or maybe Im picturing something different...

I built one with fittings from Proflow (look for their 15% off coupons). You need either a tee (3-way) or cross (4-way for a thermowell) fitting connected to a valve facing down so gravity will drain any liquids. Normally the valve is closed for recirculation and then open when you need to drain it. You can choose NTP (threaded) which is much cheaper or Tri-clover if you're more concerned about sanitation. This article may give you a better idea of how to set one up. I prefer to have the ball valve drain vertically to get most of the liquids out.