Unibrau 120v ETC controller wiring questions

[jmichalicek]

I'm in a bit of a bind with my Unibrau 10g 120v system at the moment. Power to the pump works, power to the heating element works in boil mode, but the display does not come on and in mash mode there's no power to the element.

If anyone has this system with the ETC controller, could you please take a look at the wiring and maybe get a couple of pictures. What I am particularly interested in is the wiring from the probe connector back to the actual controller. The probe connect on mine has 3 wires soldered to it - 2 red, 1 silver. At the controller I only have 1 red and 1 silver connected. I am hoping this is the root of my problem, but I don't see an obvious place this 3rd wire should be connected.

I'm also open to just purchasing a new Ringder RC-210M to swap in on mine? I did some digging last night and kept finding a couple with that name, but the wiring and voltages shown on it are completely different from mine. I did find what seems to be the right thing on ebay a few minutes ago. Swapping the wires from the current one to a new one would be super simple and it looks like removing the old one from the casing should be simple enough.

 

[FswBG]

Hey hopefully these pics will help you find the issue. From the back it looks like all 3 wires are soldered to the coupler. Did one of the pins break off?

 

[jmichalicek]

@FswBG Thanks for that, I was actually looking for the other end, though. Where those wires connect to the controller. I've got one red and one silver connected and a red flapping loose which seems like it might be the cause of my issues. I'm not sure, though, since there's also not an obvious place it should be connected. If you've got a moment to get a pic of that, I'd appreciate it.

 

[FswBG]

@jmichalicek Here's a pic where the 2 wires connect to the board. I couldn't get a good shot of the 3rd wire (red), but mine is also just dangling and not connected to anything. Maybe reach out to Steven through the fb users group or email?

 

[jmichalicek]

Thanks, that is what I was looking for. Unfortunately, it does look like only the one red pin gets connected and the other it looks like is under the controller where mine was. So that means the controller unit itself is just broken.

I tracked down a lot of 6 of the correct Ringer RC-210M units on ebay and grabbed them. Hopefully at least one of them works when they arrive, they've been sitting in a warehouse in who knows what conditions for a couple years. I'd say they should be unlikely to break, but my current one lasted all of 5 minutes when I was heating to strike temp for the first time.