Two Questions - Wort Volume & Yeast Issues

[jsmit209]

I brewed my first all grain batch yesterday, and I ran into a whole host of issues. Mostly because my mash tun and brew kettle had issues draining. I also had a terrible time trying to get my mash temp back up after it dropped to 148. Anyway, I have two questions now that I've finished:

1. I ended up with 4 gallons at the end of the process instead of the 5 gallons I anticipated. I lost a significant amount in the boil, because I started around 6.5 gallons... then I had issues draining the kettle. I ended up adding almost a gallon of filtered water to reach 5 gallons. Without a hydrometer, I couldn't measure my OG. How much impact will adding the water have on my final beer?

2. I had a Wyeast smack pack. I smacked it too late in the process, but I noted minimal swelling over 5 hours. I also listened to the pack, and seemed to hear activity inside (bubbling). I pitched the yeast at 70 degrees. When I checked back after 12 hours, there was still no activity in the airlock. How long should I expect to wait before activity?

Thanks!

 

[bajaedition]

I brewed my first all grain batch yesterday, and I ran into a whole host of issues. Mostly because my mash tun and brew kettle had issues draining. I also had a terrible time trying to get my mash temp back up after it dropped to 148. Anyway, I have two questions now that I've finished:

1. I ended up with 4 gallons at the end of the process instead of the 5 gallons I anticipated. I lost a significant amount in the boil, because I started around 6.5 gallons... then I had issues draining the kettle. I ended up adding almost a gallon of filtered water to reach 5 gallons. Without a hydrometer, I couldn't measure my OG. How much impact will adding the water have on my final beer?

2. I had a Wyeast smack pack. I smacked it too late in the process, but I noted minimal swelling over 5 hours. I also listened to the pack, and seemed to hear activity inside (bubbling). I pitched the yeast at 70 degrees. When I checked back after 12 hours, there was still no activity in the airlock. How long should I expect to wait before activity?

Thanks!

12 hours and no sign of fermentation?
suspect smack pack activity?

give it another 12 hours and if it is not bubbling throw on some dry yeast and watch it fir 12 more. Biggest problem here is you do not have a Hydrometer to check if there is activity going on.

Read a few articles about how yeast works in beer and you will understand why sometimes you get slow starts. yeast is something that takes longer than a post to explain and the make books about it.

Now about the Had Problems Draining, could you first explain the mash tun problem, then the Kettle problem so Some one can help with that?

 

[jsmit209]

Now about the Had Problems Draining, could you first explain the mash tun problem, then the Kettle problem so Some one can help with that?

I think I know what the problems were. I tested the equipment beforehand with just water, and everything drained fine. I think the mash tun false bottom (3/8 copper tubing w/ drilled holes wrapped in stainless braid) was gummed up because I tried to drain to quickly. When I tried to drain the brew kettle (converted keg w/ dip tube), I heard air pulling once the level passed the ball valve connection. My dip tube is copper tube attached with a compression fitting, and I think it may have loosened somehow during the boil.

 

[Queequeg]

The smack pack will under-pitch even at 100% viability (which you won't have) so you would expect a slow start because the growth period has been extended.

I would suggest in future you make a starter even if it is a simple starter.

Did you mash-out before the vorlauf and drain? Mashing out at 77C help fluidize the grain bed.

 

[jsmit209]

The smack pack will under-pitch even at 100% viability (which you won't have) so you would expect a slow start because the growth period has been extended.

Did you mash-out before the vorlauf and drain? Mashing out at 77C help fluidize the grain bed.

How much longer should I expect on fermentation? Extra week?

I sort of mashed out because I started w/ 1.25QT per LB, but ended up adding more heated water to try to get my mash temp up from 148. The mash tun did drain, it was just extremely slow... and I had to tip it up.

 

[Queequeg]

Can't answer that really, it will depend on the yeast, the wort sugar profile, the fermentation temps.

However in theory low pitch will result in more daughter cells, which could mean lower attenuation than you expected because yeast health will be compromised when you have a high ratio of daughter cells.The reverse can happen when you over pitch, you have to many healthy parent cells but they have a limited life with regards to consuming sugars and so flocc early. This is why there is a optimum pitch concentration.

Its best when preparing your strike water to, fill the mash tun first with water above the strike temp, this equalizes the tun temp with the mash water temp. You then can wait for the temp to drop to your strike temp. Its better to add the grain, dough-in, check the temp and adjust with cold water than try to heat. Even when you do BIAB mash its difficult to heat the mash up.

Mash out should be done at the end of mashing, it both dilutes and warms the grains to make them drain easier. Most of the time, if you drain slowly you shouldn't need it but if you have having trouble lautering then the mash out is your go to.

The other culprits are a to fine a grind, to fast a drain, or a bill profile that is low on husks.