Tri Clover Integrated Heating Element

[MackerelQ]

I saw on https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/element5500_ripple_tc.htm Bobby_M has a 5500 watt ripple heating element with a Tri Clover flange welded directly to them and a NEMA L6-30P plug on the back end so that the power cord is removable.

These are the same elements found on Brew Boss and on a few other sites. There is a disclaimer on BH stating, "These are made in China. Warranty is 3 months from date of purchase and does NOT cover damage due to dry firing"

These are marginally cheaper than buying the standard element and a TC housing, but I like the ability to unplug the cord from them instead of having the cords (somewhat) permanently mounted to them.

None of the sites that sell these show any reviews, stars, thumbs-up, etc.

• Has anyone used these?
• Are they as good as the other more popular models?
• Does having the exposed plug "pins" make them much more fragile?
• Since the cord connection is not in a housing and there could be a small gap between the plug and the cord, does this make it more susceptible to ground fault due to liquid contact?
• Is it better or worse that the element is shiny instead of dull black/gray like the others?
• These are warranted for 3 months, how long are the others warranted for?
• Does Bobby_M have an expert evaluation/review on these?

 

[jlongstreet]

Just for the ease of use, if I ever buy another element, it's going to be this one. The HotPod is nice, but this is so much easier.

 

[LarMoeCur]

I know and just a few months after I completed my build.

 

[jekeane]

I have 2 in the mail to me right now from bobby. Hopefully finishing up my build this weekend. I needed to get elements and the triclamp housing so these seemed like a good idea. We shall see.

 

[Howhownow]

Mine came in last week. I haven't finished my build, but I can say the quality looked good to me and it was all stainless contacting liquid. With a better price tag than element + housing and the added breakdown ability it was a no-brainer to me.
Nothing that scares me about it yet, though I can't attest to its actual heating performance.

 

[mendozer]

I have two yet to be installed. I'm stoked. I'm actually glad I didn't get around to my electric transition two years ago because these (or the hot pods) weren't around.

Gadgets now make it easier than ever to convert to electric. No excuse not to now.

 

[Bobby_M]

I wanted a few people to respond before chiming in. There are two things about the new TC elements that can be improved upon. First is in general quality. They are not bad at all but I have had one interior short resulting in a burn out and breaker trip. In 250 elements, that's not a bad record but the U.S. made ripples have 3x less failures over a larger sample size.

The other thing I'm not crazy about is that the wiring area is not as waterproof as it can be. Anyone that wants to make it 99% waterproof can fill the interior of the black cap area with silicone or Urethane. You can probably do it just by drilling a small hole for the nozzle.

Other than those two things, it's a great option if you don't want a cord hanging off your kettle at all times.

 

[MackerelQ]

Thanks for the the feedback, Bobby_M. Is there a BrewHardware.com modded version using the American made elements in the works?

 

[homebrewdude76]

Any plans on a 4500 SS version?

 

[akthor]

Very cool but I have already built mine using the Stil Dragon TC adapters. If bobby had these when I was acquiring parts I too would have gone that route.

Now if bobby could come up with a decent cheap control panel or a kit for dummies to build one that would be awesome

 

[MackerelQ]

I'm thinking, as a work-around to still have the high-quality elements and the "disconnect-at-the-pot" features, to wire up a high-quality element with an element enclosure, but make the cable short- like 1 foot or so with an L6-30P plug on the end and just plug the cable from the controller into that.

That way your elements aren't hard-wired to a 6-8' cord, the connection between the element and the cord is protected, and where the two cords plug together is safely away from your kettle and all the assorted liquids.

 

[mendozer]

I thought Bobby's TC integrated ones are high quality stainless ones, not the cheaper Camcos

 

[Bobby_M]

I thought Bobby's TC integrated ones are high quality stainless ones, not the cheaper Camcos

All the elements I have are 100% stainless. The discussion here is threaded vs TC integrated.

 

[jekeane]

When plugged in the weight of the cord makes the plug prongs visible. This is going to be a potential problem right?

 

[Bobby_M]

I haven't seen that before but my instinct would be to use a thin oring with a diameter that easily stretches over all three prongs.

 

[caseyw]

Very cool but I have already built mine using the Stil Dragon TC adapters. If bobby had these when I was acquiring parts I too would have gone that route.

Now if bobby could come up with a decent cheap control panel or a kit for dummies to build one that would be awesome

Just out of curiosity - what is your idea of cheap?

 

[passedpawn]

This is a pretty neat innovation. I like it a lot, mostly because it lets me store my keggle without the cord being permanently attached. I don't have a permanent stand / brew setup - mine is portable and stowed when not in use.

First concerns: waterproofness of the connection. I do have regular boilovers (). Second concern: replacing a fried element. In my experience, elements last a long time, so if I had to just replace the entire $75 thing above, instead of just the element, it would not be a big deal.

My TC's are 2" now, so not an option for me.

 

[r8rphan]

what about welding a little half round 'hood' on the kettle slightly above the TC fitting, that sticks out enough that should there be a boil over, the liquid is just redirected to the sides of the element?

Never having soldered SS before (but I'm about to learn), is this something that could be soldered, as opposed to welded? Maybe spot soldered, even?

 

[doug293cz]

Maybe try wrapping a couple of turns of 2" wide painter's tape around the gap between the plug/socket. Should be enough to prevent ingress from a boil over.

Brew on

 

[r8rphan]

Maybe try wrapping a couple of turns of 2" wide painter's tape around the gap between the plug/socket. Should be enough to prevent ingress from a boil over.

Brew on

I was thinking something similar.. A piece of rubber wrap and a velcro strap

 

[dyqik]

Or even just a wide rubber band if you can find one. Or one of those rubber charity bracelet things if they are tight enough.

 

[NervousDad]

Mine arrived today. I'm glad to see that they are starting to make these. Having said that, this will probably be a backup element and never used. There are far too many ways for water intrusion. Look forward to seeing them improve this.

 

[r8rphan]

Just ordered one... So when it arrives and I get my system built, I'll figure out something that makes me feel good about the connection, and then post what I did...

Eventually, somebody ever improving ideas will emerge...

 

[jcav]

This is a pretty neat innovation. I like it a lot, mostly because it lets me store my keggle without the cord being permanently attached. I don't have a permanent stand / brew setup - mine is portable and stowed when not in use.

First concerns: waterproofness of the connection. I do have regular boilovers (). Second concern: replacing a fried element. In my experience, elements last a long time, so if I had to just replace the entire $75 thing above, instead of just the element, it would not be a big deal.

My TC's are 2" now, so not an option for me.

I agree with passedpawn. Very cool and at first look I also like it as well. I have the same concerns though with the waterproofness. I also have 2 inch TC's and would be interested in those down the road if they were available. I would just put a female receptacle on the end of my cords that I have now, and plug them in. This way I can also store them with the cords disconnected, as my setup is also portable. Interested to see how these evolve.....

John

 

[modernlifeisANDY]

I like this idea but I don't know if it's that much of an advantage over my current setup. I use a hotpod setup and just remove the element after brew day and cover the hole with a TC cap.

 

[NervousDad]

I like this idea but I don't know if it's that much of an advantage over my current setup. I use a hotpod setup and just remove the element after brew day and cover the hole with a TC cap.

For me it's peace of mind. I always worry about my element leaking and the housing filling with water. I'm sure the GFCI will trip, but I still don't like it.

but I worry a lot


This current tri clamp version is better than my current setup so I'm sticking with it.

 

[Diggy]

I like this product! If I hadn't just bought elements and my element fitting wasn't 2" TC I would probably buy it.

Although I would probably find some sort of silicon boot to fit over it just so liquid from a boil over couldn't run down the side directly between the two sides of the socket. Not really to make it water proof but more splash resistant.

The best would be a similar connection with a marine grade socket.

 

[sredz]

I bought one of these also. I decided to open it up and seal the inside with silicone. I used GE II brand silicone which is supposed to be neutral cure silicone. Here are some pics. Will report back after I have a chance to test it.View attachment 1463019563971.jpg

 

[NervousDad]

I'm glad to see that the cap comes off so easily... I was thinking about doing the same thing.. scary to see just how unprotected the are.

 

[r8rphan]

I've been thinking about this, and I'm wondering if cutting a 1.5"-2" length of bicycle inner tube, and stretching it over the female cord connector and then rolling it back until plugged in, then rolling it forward over the male connector on the heater element would work?

Just leave it rolled back on the female connector when not plugged in?

 

[Dolomieu]

I've been thinking about this, and I'm wondering if cutting a 1.5"-2" length of bicycle inner tube, and stretching it over the female cord connector and then rolling it back until plugged in, then rolling it forward over the male connector on the heater element would work?

Just leave it rolled back on the female connector when not plugged in?

How about silicone tubing or something like this: http://m.summitracing.com/parts/vpe...mR0HXiSjq_3-8BhL8M022lugo4Hy4seHPHBoCvvDw_wcB

I have 2 I'm waiting to install. I have silicone sheet, I may rig something up with that. Probably cover the inside and caulk around the base as well.

 

[Bobby_M]

An oring slipped over the blades would be fine. It will get compressed when you lock the connector on.

 

[stever1000]

Does anyone have recent photos of their installs?

 

[jmrybak]

Here's mine on my Spike 10g eBIAB kettle. More photos here

 

[Dolomieu]

Here's mine on my Spike 10g eBIAB kettle. More photos here

Where did you get those o-rings? Do you remember what size?

 

[jmrybak]

Where did you get those o-rings? Do you remember what size?

That red oring came included with the element. Not sure on the size.

 

[jekeane]

It's nice he is including them now. I need to find a pair my LHBS doesn't have a great selection.

I have 3 6 gallon and 1 12 gallon batch with these elements and they seem so work well. I am still figuring out the best way to keep water out. I would probably go with a TC housing if I did it again but at the same time they are working well.

 

[Dolomieu]

That red oring came included with the element. Not sure on the size.

Thanks, i'll get in touch with Bobby then. I've had mine for a while and they weren't shipping with O-rings at that time.

Thanks again

 

[Dolomieu]

It's nice he is including them now. I need to find a pair my LHBS doesn't have a great selection.

I have 3 6 gallon and 1 12 gallon batch with these elements and they seem so work well. I am still figuring out the best way to keep water out. I would probably go with a TC housing if I did it again but at the same time they are working well.

so you are having issues with water actually getting in?

 

[jekeane]

so you are having issues with water actually getting in?

No. My wording was ambiguous there. What I meant is I still have a visible gap where i can see the prongs and if water came onto the element to plug connection it would be an issue.